Introdução

Use this guide to replace a broken, cracked, or non‑responsive screen on an M4 iPad Pro 13".

Note: Some replacement screens don't include the ambient light sensors, magnets, or microphone.

After a screen replacement, True Tone and auto‑brightness may be disabled. Calibrate replacement screens using Apple's Repair Assistant to restore this functionality.

You'll need replacement screen adhesive to complete this repair.

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    • For your safety, fully discharge the battery before disassembling the device. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair.

    • Disconnect all cables and accessories from the iPad.

    • Place masking tape over the following areas of the display:

    • The TrueDepth camera near the middle of the top edge

    • The ambient light sensor near the middle of the left edge

    • The bottom edge, where there are delicate ribbon cables under edge of the display

    • Note that directions in this guide are given for the iPad in landscape orientation. The USB-C port is on the right edge of the iPad.

    • If your screen is badly cracked, cover it with a layer of packing tape to help the suction cup stick and prevent shards of glass from coming off.

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    • While removing the display, don't insert picks more than 3.5 mm.

    • Mark your opening picks at 3.5 mm.

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    • Apply a heated iOpener to the top-right corner of the screen for two minutes to soften the adhesive.

    • You can also use a hair dryer or heat gun to soften the adhesive, but be careful not to overheat the iPad as the screen and battery can be damaged by heat.

    • Use this same procedure for all future steps where heat is needed to soften adhesive, unless otherwise noted.

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    • The next three steps show how to use the Anti-Clamp. For complete Anti-Clamp instructions, including how to work with a broken screen, check out this guide.

    • If you don't have an Anti-Clamp, read these steps for important tips, then follow the alternate method using a suction handle, which comes after these steps.

    • Unlock the Anti-Clamp by pulling the blue handle backwards, away from the suction cups.

    • Place something under the bottom-left corner of the iPad to hold it level, then place the Anti-Clamp on your work surface and insert the top-right corner of the iPad between the Anti-Clamp's suction cups.

    • Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp and press down on the top arm to engage the suction cups.

    • Make sure the top and bottom suction cups are aligned, and remain aligned for this entire procedure.

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    • Pull the blue handle forward, towards the suction cups, to engage the twist mechanism.

    • Turn the blue handle clockwise one full rotation or until the suction cups start to stretch.

    • If a suction cup pops off, reapply it. If needed, apply some suction tape for a grippier surface.

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    • Wait at least one minute for the Anti-Clamp to pull the screen up until there's a small gap between the screen and the frame.

    • Rely on heat and time to lift the screen. Don't try to force it open.

    • If the screen isn't lifting after two minutes:

    • Make sure there's tension on the suction cups. Crank the handle just until you feel resistance, but don't crank too much or the suction cups will release.

    • Apply more heat while the Anti-Clamp is engaged. You can thread a heated iOpener through the Anti-Clamp or use a hair dryer or heat gun.

    • If the screen is still not releasing, crank the handle a half-turn and wait another minute while applying more heat periodically, still being careful not to overheat the iPad. Repeat as needed.

    • Once the screen lifts, insert a marked opening pick into the gap, no more than 3.5 mm deep.

    • Slide the opening pick around the corner and leave it inserted.

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    • If you don't have an Anti‑Clamp, use a single suction handle instead.

    • If the screen is badly cracked, make a handle out of very strong tape instead of a suction cup. If nothing else works, you can use strong glue to stick the suction cup to the broken screen.

    • Apply the suction handle near the top‑right corner with the open part of the handle facing away from the edge.

    • Hold the iPad down with one hand, away from the suction cup, and pull the suction handle up and towards the center of the iPad.

    • As soon as a small gap appears between the screen and the frame, insert a marked opening pick no more than 3.5 mm into the gap and release tension on the suction cup.

    • If you're having trouble lifting the screen, be patient and apply more heat while pulling on the suction handle.

    • Slide the pick gently around the corner and leave it inserted.

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    • Use an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive under the top edge of the screen.

    • This iPad cools very quickly. To get the screen off, work in sections of about 3 inches at a time. So, for this step, start with heating the right side of the top edge.

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    • Be patient while slicing the screen adhesive. If you suddenly feel more resistance or notice the screen starting to flex, stop and apply more heat. If you're using an iOpener, you can apply heat while you're sliding the pick.

    • Insert an additional marked opening pick beside the first pick, on the top edge of the iPad, no more than 3.5 mm.

    • Slice the adhesive by slowly sliding the opening pick under the screen towards the front camera, stopping before you get to the masking tape.

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    • Be careful not to damage the sensitive components, like the front camera and microphone, under the screen. Work slowly. If you feel resistance, stop, slide the pick back partially, apply more heat, and continue.

    • Lift the opening pick so it's at a sharp angle pointing into the iPad.

    • Slice the adhesive by sliding the pick under the taped section of the screen.

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    • Finish slicing the adhesive by sliding the opening pick to the top-left corner.

    • Leave the opening pick inserted.

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    • Heat the right edge of the iPad.

    • Insert an opening pick beside the first opening pick you inserted, on the right edge.

    • Working in small sections, slice the adhesive, applying more heat as needed.

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    • Heat the bottom-right corner of the iPad.

    • Carefully slide the opening pick from the previous step around the bottom-right corner.

    • Leave the pick inserted.

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    • Heat the bottom edge of the iPad, focusing on the right end.

    • Insert an opening pick beside the pick in the corner, on the bottom edge, no more than 3.5 mm deep.

    • Lift the pick so it enters the iPad at a sharp angle.

    • Carefully slide the pick under the screen across the bottom edge of the iPad.

    • Work slowly to avoid damaging the delicate ribbon cables under the screen in this section. If you feel any resistance, stop, slide your pick back partially, apply more heat, and try again.

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    • Heat the bottom-left corner of the iPad.

    • Carefully slide the opening pick around the bottom-left corner.

    • Leave the pick inserted.

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    • Heat the left edge of the iPad, focusing on the bottom end.

    • Insert an opening pick above the pick already inserted near the bottom-left corner.

    • Carefully slide the pick to the beginning of the masking tape.

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    • Lift the pick so it enters the iPad at a sharp angle.

    • Slide the opening pick to the top-left corner.

    • Work slowly to avoid damaging the ambient light sensor near the middle of the screen. If you feel resistance, stop, pull the pick back slightly, apply more heat, and try again.

    • Don't try to remove the iPad screen yet. You should be able to lift the iPad screen about a half–inch out of the frame all the way around the edge.

    • If the screen is still adhered anywhere, use heat and an opening pick to slice the adhesive. Use opening picks to keep the screen lifted while you work.

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    • Once the screen is completely free of the adhesive, lift it about a half-inch and rotate it slightly counterclockwise so the screw next to the front camera is visible.

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    • Use a JCIS or JIS 00 screwdriver to remove the 1.3 mm‑long screw securing the microphone connector cover.

    • Small iFixit Phillips bits are designed to work with JIS screws, so you can use an iFixit PH 00 driver. You can try Phillips drivers from other manufacturers, but you risk stripping the screw.

    • Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the microphone connector cover. Be careful not to damage the foam on the back.

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    • Open the iPad like a book from the top edge.

    • Hold the screen above the iPad body and place a soft cloth on top of the iPad to protect both the screen and the iPad body.

    • Place the screen face-down on the cloth, being careful not to strain the cables still attached to the iPad body.

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    • Place cloths over the batteries to protect them while you work.

    • Use a JCIS or JIS 00 screwdriver to remove the screws securing the display connectors cover:

    • Four 2.1 mm‑long screws towards the center of the iPad

    • Two 1.6 mm‑long screws near the edge of the iPad

    • Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the display connectors cover.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the wide display cable press connector.

    • Then, use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Multi‑Touch cable press connector.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect both of the display power cable press connectors.

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    • Remove the screen.

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    • The iPad screen has multiple small components mounted to the back of it:

    • The top sensor assembly

    • Two magnets along the top edge

    • Three display cables

    • If the replacement screen includes all of these components, skip to this step. Otherwise, only transfer the missing components.

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    • The top sensor assembly is composed of two sensors:

    • Microphone

    • Ambient light sensor

    • If your replacement screen comes with a top sensor assembly pre‑installed, skip to this step.

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    • Slide an opening tool between the ambient light sensor and the screen.

    • Pry it up slowly to separate its adhesive. If it doesn't budge, apply more heat and try again.

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    • Use an opening tool to lift the microphone and separate the adhesive securing it to the screen.

    • Lift the entire top sensor assembly to separate it from the screen.

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    • The iPad screen has two magnets along the top edge. These are used for accessories like cases.

    • If the replacement screen comes with magnets pre‑installed, skip to this step.

    • Mark the magnets with a marker so you know which orientation to install them in on the replacement screen—they won't work if installed incorrectly.

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    • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the raised portion of the screen and the magnet.

    • Push the magnet towards the top edge of the screen using slow, steady force until it's free.

    • Set the first magnet to the side, ensuring it remains in the same orientation.

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    • Repeat this process to remove the second magnet from the screen.

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    • The screen contains three cables on the back: one for touch, one for display, and one for power (with two press connectors).

    • The touch and display cables are modular, and need to be transferred to the replacement screen in the following steps.

    • If your replacement screen has all three cables pre‑installed, skip to this step.

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    • Use your finger or a spudger to lift the screen's power cable off the screen cable cover.

    • Use a JCIS or JIS 00 screwdriver to remove the three 1.2 mm‑long screws screws securing the screen cable cover.

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    • Lift the screen cable bracket to a roughly 45‑degree angle and pull it off.

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    • Fold the screen's power cable out of the way.

    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the screen's touch cable press connector.

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    • Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the touch cable.

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    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable press connector.

    • Remove the display cable.

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    • Align the display cable press connector over its socket on the replacement screen.

    • Use your finger or the flat end of a spudger to press the connector into place.

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    • Repeat this process to connect the touchscreen cable press connector.

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    • Install the screen bracket at a roughly 45‑degree angle and set it onto the cables.

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    • Use a JCIS or JIS 00 screwdriver to install the three 1.2 mm‑long screws screws securing the screen cable cover.

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    • Fold the power cable down so it sits on top of the screen cable cover.

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    • Install 2 mm‑wide strips of thin, double‑sided tape to the underside of both magnets.

    • Leave the adhesive backing in place for now.

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    • Use a marker to mark 23 mm from the left edge and 2 mm from the top edge of the screen.

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    • Remove the adhesive backing from the first magnet.

    • Align the first magnet with the marks you made in the last step, and set it into place.

    • Press on the magnet with your finger to help the adhesive bond.

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    • Repeat this process to install the second magnet 46 mm from the right edge and 2 mm from the top edge of the screen.

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    • Heat an iOpener and set it on top of both magnets for two minutes. This will help the adhesive bond.

    • You can also use a hair dryer or heat gun to lightly heat each magnet to help the adhesive bond.

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    • Use tweezers to reposition any adhesive that may have covered the ambient light sensor (white circle) or microphone (black mesh). The adhesive should go around the sensors, not cover them.

    • If the adhesive was damaged or stayed with the old screen, replace it with a 1 mm wide strip of thin, double-sided tape along the sensor's bottom border.

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    • If you applied fresh adhesive, or if your part came with new adhesive, remove the liners now.

    • Align the microphone and ambient light sensor with their cutouts in the screen.

    • Press the microphone and ambient light sensor down for 10 seconds each to give the adhesive time to bond.

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    • Don't touch the ambient light sensor near the middle of the left edge or TrueDepth camera near the middle of the top edge while cleaning the frame.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to lift a section of adhesive. Look for an edge or overhang where you can get underneath the adhesive strip.

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    • Use tweezers or your fingers to lift and remove the old screen adhesive. Apply a little heat to make the removal easier.

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    • Apply a bit of isopropyl alcohol to a cotton swab or lint-free cloth and clean the frame until it's free of adhesive residue.

    • Alternatively, use our adhesive cleanup kit.

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    • Skip this step if you're installing a new screen.

    • Repeat this process to clean the adhesive off the screen bezel.

    • Don't scrape with a metal tool, or you will scratch the display assembly's black paint.

    • Only apply solvents (like isopropyl alcohol) to the black bezel. Don't let any get under the front sensor assembly or display itself. Solvents will also dissolve the foam gaskets, especially around the front camera cutouts.

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    • If your replacement screen comes with adhesive pre‑installed, skip the next twelve steps.

    • Be careful not to crease or stretch the adhesive during installation. It can't be used if damaged.

    • Align the adhesive with the frame of the iPad. It's easiest to align them above the USB‑C port.

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    • Flip the adhesive over so it's aligned with the back of the screen.

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    • Lift the adhesive off the back of the screen and set it to the side. Keep it in the same orientation as the screen.

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    • Don't remove any of the plastic adhesive liners yet—they keep the adhesive in shape.

    • Use scissors to cut the adhesive vertically in half. Be careful not to crease or pull the adhesive itself.

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    • The adhesive is encased in four layers of plastic—three on top and one on the bottom.

    • Peel and remove the topmost plastic cling layer from the left adhesive strip.

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    • Flip the left adhesive over.

    • Peel the clear liner with the blue line off the back of the left adhesive. The adhesive is now exposed.

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    • Work slowly when installing the adhesive—once it sticks, it can't be repositioned.

    • Flip the left adhesive and align it to the left edge of the display assembly.

    • Set the left adhesive in place aligned with the left edge of the screen.

    • Press the top and bottom sections of the left adhesive onto the back of the screen.

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    • Remove the clear liner on the left adhesive. Leave the final blue liner in place.

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    • Repeat the preparation process with the right adhesive strip.

    • Peel and remove the topmost (clear) cling layer from the strip.

    • Peel and remove the bottom liner layer (clear with a blue line) from the strip.

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    • Flip the right adhesive and peel off the clear liner with a blue line.

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    • Flip the right adhesive and set it in place, aligned with the right edge of the screen.

    • Press the top and bottom sections of the right adhesive onto the back of the screen.

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    • Remove the clear liner off the right adhesive. Leave the final blue liner in place.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently press all the adhesive into place around the entire perimeter of the iPad. Be careful not to press on the delicate ribbon cables across the bottom of the screen.

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    • Place a clean cloth over the left battery cell in the iPad.

    • Set the screen on the iPad, so the screen cable connectors can reach their respective sockets in the iPad.

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    • Align one of the display power cable press connectors over its socket on the logic board.

    • Press down with the flat end of a spudger or your fingertip—first on one of the short sides, then the other—until it clicks into place.

    • Don't try to force the connector into place. If you're having trouble, reposition it and try again.

    • Repeat this process to connect the second display power cable press connector.

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    • Repeat the same procedure to connect the two remaining display cables.

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    • Set the display connectors cover onto the logic board so it's aligned with its screw holes.

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    • Use a JCIS or JIS 00 screwdriver to install the six screws securing the display connectors cover:

    • Four 2.1 mm‑long screws towards the center of the iPad

    • Two 1.6 mm‑long screws near the edge of the iPad

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    • Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the final, blue liners off the iPad screen adhesive.

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    • Verify all the adhesive liners are removed. The adhesive is now exposed.

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    • Without touching the adhesive, slightly lift the iPad screen and remove the cloth between it and the iPad.

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    • Don't align the iPad screen with the frame yet—the front sensor assembly still needs to be connected.

    • Flip the iPad screen over and set it down at a slight angle on top of the iPad frame.

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    • Be careful not to strain the microphone cable while connecting it. If it doesn't reach, lower the screen until it does.

    • Hover the top of the screen over the microphone connector's socket on the board.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger or your finger to connect the microphone press connector to its socket on the board (located next to the front camera assembly).

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    • Use tweezers to install the microphone connector cover into its slot beneath the front camera assembly bracket.

    • Set the cover down so it's aligned with its screw hole.

    • The cover may try to stick to the magnets next to it. Keep it in place for the next step.

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    • Use a JCIS or JIS 00 screwdriver to install the 1.3 mm‑long screw securing the microphone connector cover.

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    • Carefully align the bottom edge of the screen with the bottom edge of the iPad.

    • Position the screen so it sits into the lip on the edge of the iPad.

    • Before closing up the display, check to make sure that no cables are trapped beneath the screen. If they are, lift the top edge slightly (without straining the microphone cable), reposition the screen, and try again.

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    • Lower the screen into place, ensuring the screen's bottom edge stays flush with the bottom edge of the iPad.

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    • Press down across the bottom edge, then across the entire perimeter of the screen so it sits flush.

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    • To help the adhesive bond, apply heat to all four edges of the screen using an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun until it's hot to the touch.

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    • In order for the adhesive to bond correctly, you'll need to apply even pressure around the perimeter of the iPad. You can compensate for the camera bump by laying the iPad face-down and placing coins around its perimeter.

    • Alternatively, you can use screen vise clamps around the perimeter of your device to set the new adhesive.

    • Place the iPad screen-side-down on a soft, flat surface.

    • Apply tape to the back to protect its finish.

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    • Place evenly spaced layers of coins or similarly thick objects on the tape along the edges of the back glass.

    • Stack them to a consistent height taller than the camera bump.

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    • Stack multiple books or other heavy objects on the iPad.

    • The coins may leave an impression on the bottom object, so don't use anything valuable.

    • Leave the objects in place for at least thirty minutes. The lighter the objects, the longer they should be left. Ideally, leave them stacked overnight.

Conclusão

Calibrate the replacement screen using Apple's Repair Assistant. Navigate to Settings General About Parts & Service History, tap Restart & Finish Repair, and follow the onscreen prompts.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Pro 13" Answers Community for help.

Nick Schultz

Membro desde: 24/03/24

45909 Reputação

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