Substituição do conjunto botão Home do iPhone 6 Plus

Escrito Por: Walter Galan
  • Comentários: 149
Substituição do conjunto botão Home do iPhone 6 Plus

Dificuldade

Moderado

Passos

25

Tempo necessário

30 minutos - 1 hora

Introdução

Use este guia para substituir o conjunto do botão home.

Observe que somente conjuntos do botão home originais do telefone serão capazes de usar o sensor de impressão digital Touch ID . Ao instalar um botão home novo, você só restaura as funções normais do botão home, e não os recursos do Touch ID.

Você também pode usar este guia para substituir as seguintes peças:

  1. USCeHYChW5fqBuWf

    • Desligue seu iPhone antes de começar a desmontá-lo.

    • Remova os dois parafusos Pentalobe de 3,6 mm dispostos ao lado do conector Lightning.

    Pentalobe P2

    Enea Del Lama -

    I prefer to remove the SIM card as the very first step since it's safer to do so while the phone is fully assembled.

    estebanfallasf -

    I stripped one of the two screws - at a dead stop.

    Margaret Patterson -

    Before you even start: get the iOpener or hairdryer out. You’ll need it

    GPZ -

    If a lightning connector won’t provide a charge or needs to be wiggled carefully to provide a charge, power off the device, then try using precision tweezers to scrape the innermost wall of the lightning jack in a pinching motion to check for lint buildup. Pocket lint or other debris can accumulate inside the jack, compacting each time a cable is inserted. This can prevent a lightning cable from seating fully. Clearing the lint may restore functionality without replacing the part.

    Andrew Dolan -

    A few hints:

    * heating up the phone works great. I used a heating pad that you put in the microwave to heat sports injuries.

    * also, I made a sheet to help you keep track of the screws as you remove them. Print out the page, then place double sided tape below each color-coded listing of screws, and stick the screws to the tape as you disassemble. This helps prevent losing the screws and keeps track of what screws are what for easier reassembly. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pLSvKvB...

    Paul Faul -

    Additional hints, for anyone who needs them:

    * stick the screws to the tape in the same positions as they are shown in the guide. This will make it easier to identify them during reassembly.

    * if the screws get mixed together, the ‘mm’ (millimetre, millimeter) measurements given in the guide can be used to identify them. Compare the lengths of the threaded shafts to each other to determine which screw is which.

    Friendly Advice -

  2. SBlkTVGogWclLvRN
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    • As próximas duas etapas demonstram o Anti-Clamp, uma ferramenta que projetamos para facilitar o procedimento de abertura. Se não estiver usando o Anti-Clamp, pule três etapas para um método alternativo.

    • Para obter instruções completas sobre como usar o Anti-Clamp, consulte este guia.

    • Puxe a pega azul para trás para destravar os braços do Anti-Clamp.

    • Deslize os braços pela borda esquerda ou direita do seu iPhone.

    • Posicione as ventosas próximo à borda inferior do iPhone, diretamente acima do botão home - uma pela dianteira e a outra pela traseira.

    • Aperte as ventosas uma contra a outra para aplicar sucção na área desejada.

    • Se você achar que a superfície do seu iPhone é muito escorregadia para o Anti-Clamp se prender, você pode usar fita para deixar a superfície mais aderente.

  3. RDiNQyxvb5Aijlf6
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    • Puxe a pega azul para a frente para travar os braços.

    • Gire a pega 360 graus no sentido horário até que as ventosas comecem a se esticar.

    • Certifique-se de que as ventosas permaneçam alinhadas uma com a outra. Se elas começarem a ficar desalinhadas, solte um pouco as ventosas e realinhe os braços.

    • Insira uma palheta de abertura sob a tela quando o Anti-Clamp tiver formado um vão grande o suficiente.

    • Se o Anti-Clamp não formar espaço suficiente, gire a pega um quarto de volta.

    • Não gire a pega mais do que um quarto de volta de cada vez e espere alguns segundos entre cada volta. Deixe que o Anti-Clamp e o tempo façam o trabalho por você.

    • Pule as próximas três etapas.

    Use clear nontextured tape place that over the phone screen. Refer to any guide that addresses replacing a shattered screen

    Abigail Cherry -

    I know it's tough with cracked glass. You just need enough to get in a plstic pry tool or guitar pick. Then you can pry it apart. Just be patient, I cannot stress that enough; the electronics are very, very small and fragile.

    Mike -

  4. kyqQkZwqWmMDtNVl

    • Caso você não tenha uma iSclack, use somente uma ventosa de sucção para levantar o painel dianteiro:

    • Pressione uma ventosa de sucção contra a tela, na área diretamente acima do botão home.

    • Certifique-se de que a ventosa de sucção foi pressionada com segurança à tela, para alcançar uma perfeita aderência.

    Avec la ventouse, l’ouverture est brutale, tout s’est déclipsé d’un seul coup. Faire attention.

    Paul Briffaut -

    English Please!

    tom mozeleski -

    With the sucker, the opening is brutal, everything was cleared at once. Pay attention. (Paul’s comment translated by Google)

    Steve Schlotter -

    May need to burp the sticker before it sticks. Need to let the air out. Once Idid that, no problem. Except it was still hard to get the cover to start up.

    Patricia Tucker -

    Don’t waste your time with the suction cup - it doesn’t work! insert the blade of a box cutter just below the lower screen edge below the home button and gently pry just enough to start cracking the seal.

    Stephen Smith -

  5. bPBFLb3Vf5xeFd1k

    • Enquanto pressiona o iPhone para baixo com uma mão, puxe a ventosa de sucção para cima, de modo a separar suavemente o conjunto painel dianteiro da estrutura traseira do dispositivo.

    • Use o tempo que for necessário e empregue força firme e constantemente. O ajuste do conjunto do display é mais apertado do que na maioria dos dispositivos.

    • Usando uma ferramenta de abertura de plástico, comece a mover vagarosamente a estrutura traseira do dispositivo para baixo enquanto continua puxando para cima o conjunto do display com a ventosa, até separá-los um do outro.

    • Existem diversos clipes segurando o conjunto painel dianteiro à estrutura traseira do dispositivo. Assim, você provavelmente precisará combinar o uso de uma ventosa e de uma ferramenta de abertura de plástico para liberar o conjunto painel dianteiro.

    Be extra careful here. If you don’t take your time, your front panel may jerk back on you, causing you to overextend and break the front camera/mic flex cable; happened to me. Slowly peel back the front panel, opening it no more than 90º.

    Thomas -

    watch out for the left side of the phone the adhesive bunches up around the inner clips, i didn’t realize it and the upper left of my screen cracked pretty bad. But this guide is awesome follow every direction to the letter

    Aaron Fitzpatrick -

    Note: this comment is written for the iPhone 6 Plus, but may also apply to other models of iPhone.

    Disassembly:

    The clips in the rear case attach to small slotted shapes under the edges of the display assembly, and these attachment points alternate from one side to the other. Moving from bottom to top, gently pulling the rear case away at these points will help to separate the two halves without using too much force.

    Reassembly:

    Ensure that the plastic clips along the top edge of the front panel (shown in step 8) are fitted properly inside the rear case, then gently press the display assembly into the rear case at these points, moving from top to bottom. There may be a small click sound as the clips in the rear case engage with the slots on the display assembly, and the rear case should fit flush with the edges of the display assembly.

    Friendly Advice -

    This was challenging. For me, the suction cup could only create a tiny bit of motion and at first, no actual gap at all. You might have to pull the suction cup away from the base a few times just to loosen things up a tiny bit. Eventually, I got my fingernail in, and then after a few minutes got the plastic tool in.

    Also, use the plastic tool to gently pry along the sides of the phone once there’s light there. I was afraid of using too much leverage and breaking the screen as per the other comments, but starting at the bottom and then going around the sides slowly worked for me.

    FixingMyiPhone -

  6. YIsYQlG2dFCHb1At
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    • Puxe o bico de plástico para liberar o vácuo da ventosa.

    • Remova a ventosa de sucção do conjunto do display.

    There is an adhesive strip all along the edge between the top and bottom of the phone. Is that just adhesive or is it wire of some sort?

    Larry Ingerling -

    @lingerling The adhesive strip was introduced on the iPhone 6s and 6s Plus (one model year later than what’s shown on this page). Guides specific to each model can be found here—be sure to use the correct one for your particular phone. And yes, just adhesive, no wires. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

  7. Mq2BflEN1psMGQLb
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    • Usando a parte superior do telefone como uma dobradiça, puxe a extremidade do botão home do conjunto do painel dianteiro para fora da estrutura traseira.

    • Abra o display até um ângulo de cerca de 90º e o apoie em algo para sustentá-lo enquanto você executa o trabalho no telefone.

    • Engate uma faixa de elástico para fixar seguramente o display enquanto você trabalha. Isso previne uma tensão indevida nos cabos do display.

    • Em uma emergência, você pode usar uma lata de bebida ainda não aberta para sustentar o display.

    Be careful If we leave the screen connected and set it to 90 degrees, the speaker / sensor flex may break. With an opening of 60 degrees it is convenient to completely disconnect the screen. The headset's flex is short, and if we put it at 90º, it can break. Guiding me from the images of iFixit, I have broken two cables.

    Español:

    Cuidado. Si dejamos la pantalla conectada y lo ponemos a 90 grados, el flex del altavoz/sensor puede romperse. Con una abertura de 60 grados es conveniente desconectar enteramente la pantalla. El flex del auricular es corto, y si lo ponemos en 90º , se puede romper. Guiándome de las imágenes de iFixit, se me han roto dos cables.

    txaukos -

    At 60º the display will block access to all the screws and the phone would be practically unserviceable, so I’m having trouble making sense of this comment. The cables on a factory original display are pretty tough and designed with enough slack that a 90º angle is no problem. Same with any decent aftermarket display.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If you look at the enlarged image, you can see how the flex cable from the camera / speaker is in tension. This is my opinion. Sorry for my bad English

    Si usted se fija en la imagen ampliada, puede ver cómo el flex cable de la cámara/altavoz está en tensión. Esta es mi opinión.

    Perdón por mi mal inglés

    txaukos -

    your English isn’t the issue, it’s the proposed 60 degree opening space that doesn’t allow for the removal of the screws of the mounting plate where the connectors connect to the main pcb…

    if can make a recommendation here; it helps if the can is full and not refrigerated, the weight helps in keeping the phone where it should stay without adding additional tension to the ‘flex’ ribbon cable. it’s called flex for a reason people, if your breaking these the phones already been overheated too much, the cables become brittle and should also be replaced. i replaced my battery without disconnecting the screen, at 90 degrees with a rubber band around an empty beer can. pierced the orig. battery and caused sparks. albeit, i wasn’t in a hurry and it took me a good 30+ minutes, removal of the battery and stickers is by far the most challenging, especially when NOT disconnecting the screen…

    it’s not a race, take your time. move slowly but precisely with forethought and persistent force…

    circuitbender 477 -

    Werkt dit ook voor iPhone 7(plus)?

    Christina Pegtel -

    Werkt dit hetzelfde voor iPhone 7 (plus)?

    Christina Pegtel -

  8. ta6UXCeMXDwLJgff
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    • Diversos clipes ao longo das bordas superiores do painel dianteiro formam uma dobradiça parcial, permitindo o conjunto painel dianteiro se abrir como um livro.

    • Durante a remontagem, alinhe os clipes localizados logo abaixo da borda superior da parte inferior do dispositivo. Então, deslize o painel dianteiro para cima até que sua borda superior fique nivelada com a da estrutura traseira.

    I would recommend protecting the screen once the display is free and the suction cup has been removed. This will help avoid any possibility of accidental scratching of the display crystal while the remaining steps are being performed. I used an inexpensive screen protector then removed it after reassembling and testing are complete.

    anthonyspampinato -

  9. LJRiWB63gTcRLjuo

    • Remova os seguintes parafusos Phillips do tipo #00 do suporte do conector da bateria:

    • Um parafuso tipo #00 de 2,3 mm

    • Um parafuso tipo #00 de 3,1 mm

    for the iPhone 6 Plus, all screws were Phillips #000

    Michael Adams -

    I had difficulty removing the 3.1mm (iPhone 6 Plus / Phillips #000); had to give it significant downward pressure to get it started.

    Allen Matheson -

    stripped the 2.3mm screw attempting to remove, had to use excessive force to successfully remove

    Matthew Gao -

    The Phillips bits provided in the kit would not engage the Phillips heads enough to loosen them. Luckily I had my own small screwdriver set that worked like a charm.

    David Davis -

    Same issue. Could not remove the screw. Dead in the water.

    Tiffany -

    Agree with above comments regarding the supplied Phillips bit. It is not the correct size.

    Use a Phillips #000.

    bobgottner -

    Phillips #000 is what’s included in the kit. As others mentioned above, firm downward pressure is key. The phone is not that delicate; just press hard and crank it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Is this step necessary ?\

    Asianay -

    @asianay0129 Yes, disconnecting the battery is necessary. You can sometimes get away with skipping it, at the risk of destroying something important and potentially bricking your phone. Not a wise gamble for the sake of skipping two screws.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  10. LJPr2uMXVAFoskqs

    • Remova o suporte metálico do conector da bateria do iPhone.

    Was not able to remove the battery connector bracket as one of the cable connectors was glued/stuck to the underside. Instead moved the bracket out of the way to disconnect the battery. Care should be taken not to over bend/stretch the ribbon cable.

    dwtan -

    That may be just the foam connector adhering to the bracket. If you pull up gently and twist slightly it should separate.

    Evan Noronha -

    It was the foam connector, and it did twist free with a gentle pull

    Al Taylor -

  11. ZSMGcLEnPMdHYkKr

    • Use uma ferramenta de abertura de plástico para desprender cuidadosamente o conector da bateria do seu soquete na placa lógica.

    • Tome cuidado para desprender somente o conector da bateria, e não o soquete da placa lógica. Se você fizer alavanca no soquete da placa lógica, você poderá deteriorar completamente o conector.

    you may consider placing a thin non-conductive item between the connector and the socket like a bit of rubber band to prevent any power flowing during this procedure

    Michael Adams -

    It was too close to other parts to pry up with either end of plastic tool. Finally used 1 tine of tweezer to lift edge. Came free easily

    Al Taylor -

    J’ai pris une loupe pour bien observer l’endroit où placer l’outil.

    Paul Briffaut -

    Magnification is key for many tasks and this is certainly one.

    Kenneth Gilbert -

    I couldn’t use the iFixit blue opening tool to pry that battery connector. I used the top of the black spudger near the hole where the 3.1mm screw was in step 9-10 to easily pry it open!

    Alyssa Sayuki -

    The blue plastic board breaker can easily cause damage here. Professionals would recommend using the human fingernail as the ideal tool for this job.

    Jessa Jones -

  12. U3B3TTmJCH2tYSMQ

    • Enquanto mantém o painel dianteiro aberto num ângulo de cerca de 90º, remova os seguintes parafusos que seguram o suporte para o cabo do conjunto painel dianteiro:

    • Três parafusos tipo #00 de 1,2 mm

    • Um parafuso Phillips tipo #00 de 1,5 mm

    • Um parafuso Phillips tipo #00 de 2,9 mm

    There's an other panel with one screw in the middle.........

    Herbert -

    Sounds like you have an iPhone 6s Plus, rather than a 6 Plus. Be sure to use the correct guide! And make sure you’ve ordered the correct part, as they’re not cross-compatible.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I _love_ the color coding of screws. I know this is a little OCD, but it would be incredibly useful if there were an 8.5 X 11 you could print with indicated homes for where to drop items from each step of disassembly. That is, in the box for step 9, little colored circles for where to place each screw type. As long as you don't jostle the paper, it would make it a lot easier to know exactly where you are in reassembly.

    cscarlson47shop -

    I have done the exact same thing. Created a sheet where each screw goes.

    Chris Murphy -

    I used the 000 bit from the ifixit 54 piece kit.

    hhandh -

    Actually you don’t need to do steps 12 to 18 if you attach the display panel to the iPhone box as shown in step 7 and handle your iPhone with care during the replacement. I didn’t disconnect the display panel mainly because the more you work on the interior of your phone the higher is the chance you break something.

    Dany Castillo -

    Since this guide is for DISPLAY replacement, I don’t see how you can skip the steps for disconnecting and removing the DISPLAY.

    Jim Bateman -

    That's what I was thinking.

    The Wizard -

    I skipped this series of steps too. I was very careful when removing the battery and never had an issue with the screen leaning back against the box that this battery shipped in. I even broke half of the third strip of adhesive but used a plastic card to slide under the battery and it slowly lifted out without applying heat.

    mark -

    I'm having trouble with one screw not wanting to come out. Any suggestions to keep from stripping the head and getting it?

    Patric -

    which screws are which sizes cause i ordered new ones and cant figure it out

    MONsterHEIT -

    I also did not see the need to remove the display assembly for this repair. However I did place a can of corn against the vertically positioned display and then secured the display to the can with a rubber band.

    whiteshephard -

    I recommend removing the display assembly, I didn’t and somehow damaged the home button cable. At least remove the cover to ease the tension on the cables.

    Steve Schlotter -

    I played around with different screwdrivers to get certain screws out. I made sure I wasn’t applying heavy pressure so I wouldn’t strip the head. Apple is crazy for doing this to us lol.

    Anyways invest in a magnetized mat to organize your screws. It was really difficult to keep things organized and still, especially with these tiny screws…

    Jeffrey Robinos -

    what happens if i forgot to put the ribbon cable shield back on? the phone is now working but i forgot to put the shield back on and i am missing 2 screws. can i leave the shield off?

    Fred ticoman. -

    @ticoman12 It’ll work without the shield, but the connectors may pop out unexpectedly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just be really careful remembering which screw is which. I drew a quick sketch of the bracket, then put the screws in the relevant places. There’s no way I would have been able to figure them out otherwise - my eyes can’t see the difference between a 1.2 and 1.5mm screw!

    Paul Johnson -

    The most fiddly part of the job.

    Much easier if you put the screwdriver head on the screw and then insert it into the opening. The slight magnetism will hold it in place. Don’t fully tighten a screw until all the screws are in place. Much like installing lug nuts on a car.

    GPZ -

    I also skipped steps 12-18 as Danny had suggested. It made this repair quite easy, so thank you and others for suggesting this. I was also very careful to allow the battery to discharge before starting the process.

    Bruce Platt -

    I question whether Steps 12-18 (separating the display from the case) is actually necessary? The battery can be removed/replaced with the display connected (but standing upright, as displayed in Step 7.

    Leaving the display attached obviates the most difficult steps (re-connecting the various control ribbons — 3/4 of ‘em!

    I followed this manual completely and the repair was successful. But if I had this to do over, I’d leave the display connected.

    Dana Smith -

    I skipped the steps 12-18 as well and thank goodness I did so I won’t have to worry about issues with any of the cables.

    my panel is different from what is pictured anyway ‘cause I have one screw in the middle like what Herbert said on the first comment.

    Maria Filamor-Robinson -

    I realized too late just how handy the magnetic mat is that they have in their shop. So I organized the screws with a piece of clear packing tape. On the smooth side, use a sharpie to draw spacious circles with “R” “O” and “Y” inside each circle to represent the color coded screws and then use the sticky side to keep the screws in place. I found that using the tweezers to take them off the screwdriver helps you stick them head first to the tape better.

    Selena Castillo -

    Somebody’s been in the phone I’m working on... It’s a mess. One missing screw from the last shield, and a screw stuck to the battery, when I first opened the phone up…

    Mike McIntosh -

  13. oeZLN21DdDdbvjRR

    • Remova o suporte para o cabo do conjunto painel dianteiro da placa lógica.

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    • Nos quatro passos seguintes, tome cuidado para fazer alavanca somente nos conectores dos cabos e não nos seus soquetes, localizados na placa lógica.

    • Enquanto ainda segura o painel dianteiro, use uma ferramenta de abertura de plástico para desconectar o conector do cabo da câmera frontal e do alto-falante auricular.

    Why does the screen need to come off?

    Sterling Coffey (N0SSC) -

    Because the cables are delicate, and following steps are easier if phone halves are not flopping around together, especially for amateurs.

    Matthew Goheen -

    I don't know if anyone will see this but here it goes: for the life of me I can't get the front-facing camera and earpiece speaker connector to seat. Everything else went back together fine but this one connector will not go in. Sometimes it seems like it's in even though it doesn't really pop in and it'll kinda sit there for a sec and then it pops out.

    Any insight would be greatly appreciated, thank you

    Droopy Caledonia -

    Try starting at one end instead of in the middle. It's to easy to bend a connector and this way, I can get a safe start and go from there.

    Rongwey -

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    • Use uma ferramenta de abertura de plástico para desconectar o conector do cabo do botão home.

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    • Use uma ferramenta de abertura de plástico para desconectar o conector do cabo de dados do display.

    • Ao montar de novo seu telefone, o cabo de dados do display pode desprender o conector. Isso pode causar linhas brancas ou uma tela preta quando você for ligar novamente seu telefone. Se isso acontecer, simplesmente reconecte o cabo e execute um power cycle em seu telefone. A melhor forma de fazer power cycle em seu telefone é desconectar e reconectar o conector da bateria.

    The piece of advice about power cycling the phone by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery proved crucial to the success of my repair (camera and lens replacement). At first when charging the phone after closing it, I got a dark, blank screen with an intermittent buzzing noise. After re-opening the phone and making sure all cables had been properly reconnected, I ignored the advice to power cycle the phone. Still all I got was a dark, blank screen (and intermittent buzzing if charging t). Then I opened it a third time (leaving the screen connected and attached at a 90 degree angle) and I only disconnected and reconnected the battery. Voila! When I closed the phone and powered it up, I got the screen to light up!

    Gianni -

    how did you disconnect and reconnect the battery?

    Teresa Trevino -

    If you’ve been following the guide, you already disconnected it in this step. To reconnect it, just line up the connector and press it into place.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    After replacing the battery, the phone seems dead. I thought it just needed recharging so I left it charging all night. Still dead in the morning. Now I think it might be because the display data cable is off, and I should open the phone and check it. But the battery might be on full power in that case, and they don’t advice to open the phone when battery if full. What can I do?

    Ila Awasthi -

    The advice aims at avoiding battery fire. Just be careful.

    Katherine Williams -

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    • Finalmente, use uma ferramenta de abertura de plástico para desconectar o conector do cabo do digitalizador.

    • Ao reconectar o cabo do digitalizador, não pressione na parte central do conector. Pressione primeiro uma extremidade do conector e, então, pressione a extremidade oposta. Exercer pressão no centro do conector pode empenar o componente e causar danos ao digitalizador.

    some images and guidance regarding reassembly would be helpful. You don't need to use the spudger to get them back on: fingers are better because there's a really subtle click you feel when you get them seated properly.

    cscarlson47shop -

    When you're reassembling, a note that this is the step where you should test for proper screen function would be really useful. First time I reassembled, I didn't seat something properly, got all the screws back together and then realized the screen wasn't functioning properly. Had to disassemble back down to step 14 and then re-reassemble.

    cscarlson47shop -

    I am having this issues right now! I have unplugged and plugged in these cables at least 20 times and each time I get white lines. I finally have it to where there are only 4 white lines and I am almost willing to live with it. Any suggestions?

    mattmay002 -

    Clean the screen connectors incase they are not making a clean connection

    Karen Jones -

    I'm having nightmares with the digitizer connector. Simply can't get it to work unless I'm applying some pressure on the connectors. Everything seems almost microscopically clean. Any suggestions friends?

    Henry A -

    could it be the replacement screen? test with your old screen and see if you have the same problem.

    Charles -

    To ++mattmay002++  Did you power cycle the phone? Check out the comments on the previous step for a how to.

    Robert Liles -

    I had issues with it too. When connecting this cable, make sure to rock finger side to side after connecting. It’s a wide connector so try to listen for 2 clicks on this one connector. That’s how I fixed mine

    Albert Einstein -

    Re-attaching this cable is the only tricky part to replacing the battery on my 6+. It had a bow on the middle that I had to flatten out before pressing the connector on with finger first on one edge and then on the other. I had white tire tracks on the screen and no touch screen until I connected it correctly. The front has to rest in just the right place on the back while attaching this thing so the cables aren’t strained the front doesn’t fall down. Small fingers would be a plus at this step.

    richard -

    Reseating these connectors on reassembly is definitely the most difficult part of this repair. It took me several attempts before the lowermost connector would seat properly and I did accidentally bend it slightly in the process. Fortunately I was able to get it straight again and get it to click in. The other three went in fine though and no lasting damage seems to have been done.

    Andy Gibbons -

    Another thing - These cables can become overlapped in the wrong way and make you think they are in a different order than they should be. Eg. it’s easy to mix up the ones from step 15 and 17. You can actually unravel the cables and re-layer them on top of each other in any order, so remember this! They look like they’re one solid mass but they’re not.

    domarius -

    I never removed the last digitizer connctor. I removed the first three connectors, left the screen propped at 90 deg tied to a box and removed the battery, there is minimal movement. In fact when I reattached the connectors, only the first and maybe second connector feels taut, so it’s necessary to only remove the first connector if you can be gentle with it. Less headache. And my guess why so many people had issues is that micro dust gets into the connectors and cause connection loss. You be surprised how little dust can cause havoc.

    darrcc -

    And forgot one thing, keep a can of air duster woth you to remove as must dust as you can see. A camera air blower will also do nice.

    darrcc -

    I haven’t removed my screen in past battery replacements, I found it easier. However, this time I followed the instructions because my old battery was very stuck, and I needed the screen gone to get the battery out…

    When I replaced the screen, at first it wouldn’t even boot/start up. (Yes, I inserted my own testing step, as someone here suggested, before final reassembly).

    The screen would just show a fuzzy image, and the board that all the cables attach to would heat up, then it would turn itself off. I tried reconnecting them carefully 3 times, and even made sure to get a little “click”, all to no avail.

    The final try, I used my fingernail to really press down on the back side of the digitizer cable. I heard more clicking, though I thought I might be tearing the cable too. With nothing left to lose, I continued across the back, and heard several more clicking/tearing sounds.

    This worked, and it booted after that. It still had white lines, but those faded away overnight.

    Morgan Giddings -

    About the digitizer connector: its flat cable is so short that the when I attempted to seat the next connector, its flat cable pressed on the digitizer cable, which can pull on the connector and dislodge it. That happened several times for me before success.

    Robert Bernard 27 Nov 19

    Robert H Bernard -

    Nous n’apercevons pas bien les nappes et l’ordre dans lesquelles elles doivent être replacer

    Patrick AZOULAY -

  18. 3gOJDeXwSv2IQKrW

    • Separe o conjunto painel dianteiro da estrutura traseira do dispositivo.

    Never remove the screen without disconnecting the battery. It's possible the back light can be blown and that's a even more difficult repair. Always, ALWAYS, disconnect battery before repairing items. (Unless it's not possible.)

    Marvin Ballard -

    How do you disconnect the battery from the screen?

    Shamil Bhatti -

    The Step 11 disconnects the battery :)

    jeffxtechs -

    I think you mean Step 8 :)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    How do you disconnect the battery

    I tried it once and

    Brian -

    And what? I tried it once and here’s a million dollars?

    Oh I get it… they got him! :(

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlznqpBg...

    domarius -

    When disassembling the iphone at this point note the cables, and there placement/orientation.

    GERARD SZAREK -

    Be really careful with the step after this. Do not commence until you have read all the comments. You need to get a good hold of the plastic strips preferably before they double over on themselves. You have to avoid puncturing the battery at all costs. Slowness and caution here will save you a lot of long term pain.

    Laura Houghton -

    2 more screws just stuck to magnetic components for me! The shield is missing a screw….

    Mike McIntosh -

  19. jHGm4SBRX1rQ6Qgb

    • Remova os dois parafusos Phillips de 1,8 mm que seguram o suporte do botão home no painel dianteiro.

    This guide is pointless, iPhone 6/6 plus home button is not replaceable, period.

    Tom Chai -

    Yes it is absolutely replaceable. You need to remember it is a encrypted security feature, so you'll need the apple ID or password to regain control again if replaced. That's the whole point to secure your data.

    Mike -

    Yes, the iPhone 6 and 6 Plus home buttons are replaceable. I do several replacements for customers and they work just fine with one exception. The fingerprint reader around the home button does not work after replacing the home button

    BrentTaylorBA -

    Hi Brent, I have a iPhone 6 plus with a shattered screen to repair and the home button is gone. You have said that you've been able to replace the home buttons successfully. I was wondering how you got past the error 53 problem when restoring it? Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.

    arcadian212 -

    Error 53 was resolved by Apple with an iOS update, so fortunately this is no longer an issue! As others have stated, it's perfectly possible to replace the home button, but you will lose fingerprint sensor functionality (the original sensor is paired to your iPhone's logic board at the factory, and only Apple can pair a new one).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Why does that make it pointless? The guide is geared towards screen replacement, with the intent of using the original home button and a new screen. It clearly states this. What about this guide is pointless? It's actually very helpful.

    abyss478 -

    Warning: The iphone 6 will brick after a restore if the home button is replaced. I agree with the other commenters that it is not a replaceable part because of this issue. If you try to restore the iPhone 6 after replacing the home button it will get stuck in recovery mode and give error 53 when a restore is attempted. I learned this the hard way! Please be careful and don't restore your phone if you do this repair.

    max -

    What did you do after your phone got stuck in recovery mode ?

    Lynn -

    I had an error 53 when trying to restore a iphone 6 plus.

    I bought a new heat shield with flex ribbon attached and installing that allowed me to get a restore complete.

    steve -

    I couldn't get my fingerprint reader to work after following this guide. I ended up taking the phone back apart and replacing the new screens' backing plate and the attached home button cable with the old, original one and now the fingerprint sensor works!

    fsharp320 -

    The little square rubber gaskets that cloak the mounting holes (little square nubs at the bottom of the picture in Step 19) for the Pentalobe Screws in Step 1 above had a tendency to fall off the screen. Further, if replacing the screen, these should also accompany the other items transferred to the new screen. This is just a small oversight I have seen from this repair guide, otherwise, smooth as silk.

    Justin -

    The connector seemed a bit raised after re-assembling, I noticed after pressing the bracket down on in preparation for screwing in. I don’t know if it’s normal for it to have a slightly raised feeling but it was noticeable. Enough to make me wonder if it’s too much pressure on it once it’s screwed together.

    domarius -

    My bracket looks different than the one pictured…

    Mike McIntosh -

  20. EoCj5FUpQvQriZkS

    • Remova o suporte do botão do conjunto painel dianteiro.

    buen día, cuando no me reconoce el touch id pero el boton si hace la función de botón ejemplo si me envía a home pero no reconoce el alcance fácil dos toques no reconoce el lector biométrico

    Yamir Maximino -

  21. SEqgBQZyi4JS3Brb
    SEqgBQZyi4JS3Brb
    1JqAcIvK5TAnnDBA

    • Use a ponta fina de uma espátula para desconectar o conector do botão home de seu soquete localizado ao cabo do botão home.

    Will disabling and removing fingerprint passcode thru settings software wise prior to repair or starting the replacement, will this feature with a new replacement home button resolve the error 53 or the repairer need to use the original home button sensor with the correct fingerprint stored in the tiny small chip ? I have replaced a gsm iPhone 6S not plus screen making sure that not to tear off the sensor chip successfully repaired. -Joan

    JOAN E. VERGARA -

    Hi Joan! If I am understanding your question correctly, disabling the fingerprint passcode prior to repair WILL NOT result in Touch ID working after the repair. You should look at Jeff Suovanen's comment at the bottom, as he explains the two ways to keep Touch ID working. In order to keep Touch ID working, you will need to find a logic board that is paired with the home button and replace both of those components.

    Scott Havard -

    When reassembling this display connector, you must fold the new connector down into and against the plastic base in order to line up the sockets. The original connector cable is adhered to the screen, the replacement sticks straight out.

    Bret Hoffman -

  22. j6v2uGrTH1NjGCgq

    • Cuidadosamente, force a ponta fina de uma espátula por baixo do cabo do conector do botão home.

    • Lentamente, desloque a espátula ao longo do cabo do conector do botão home para separá-lo do material adesivo que o segura no conjunto painel dianteiro.

    Es necesario calentar para que se desprenda de una forma comoda

    Yamir Maximino -

    i found using a needle works well too, as the fine point of the needle will be able to get under the adhesive and i can gently separate it.

    Charles -

    heat thoroughly with a hair dryer. (away from your work area so you don't blast your parts all over the place!) pops right off.

    edwardlyman -

  23. YwFgfnYVx4EpYZFC
    YwFgfnYVx4EpYZFC
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    • Usando a ponta do dedo, pressione cuidadosamente para cima, mas não remova, o botão home do lado oposto para liberar uma borda da vedação do botão home do painel dianteiro.

    • Não pressione o botão home inteiro — você só precisa liberar uma quina, de modo que possa liberá-lo com uma espátula.

    • A vedação de borracha que envolve o botão home é muito fina. Para evitar que a vedação se desgaste, recomendamos usar uma quantidade mínima de calor.

  24. Qj6VMpR6UM1tOX1S
    Qj6VMpR6UM1tOX1S
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    • Cuidadosamente, corra a ponta fina de uma espátula por baixo do contorno do botão home para separá-lo do conjunto painel dianteiro.

    The little rubber gasket seems to be a moisture seal. It isn’t glued down but over time it seals itself to the display. Pushing the spudger around underneath simply breaks the bond between the two surfaces. Be sure to do it carefully so as not to tear it.

    bichmgnt -

  25. SOWYcoQb3BlGnjej

    • Suspenda e remova o conjunto do botão home do conjunto painel dianteiro.

    So this fix is hardware only? Do I need to disable the touch ID feature before removal and wWhat do I do next to get the touch ID feature to function?

    Dasteufelhund -

    After removing the home button, remove the two black rubber bumpers from the ‘Pentalobe Screw’ mount brackets and transfer them to the new screen, this helps secure the home button in place and screw tension.

    James_P -

Conclusão

Para montar novamente seu dispositivo, siga estas instruções na ordem inversa.

Autor(a)

Walter Galan

708121 Reputação

24 comentários

My iphone was screen broken and i change it with a original complete iphone screen, the home button works fine but the touch id dont work. I change the home button to the one that i have in the broken screen and still the touch id dont work. What can i do to fix the touch id?

Juanjo Checo -

replace the flex cable which connects touch ID cable with mother board

engradnanriaz -

Hi guys, I replaced my front assembly and I'm having the opposite issue with my home button: The TouchID is working fine, but the home button being pressed is not working. I've tried re-seating the cable a few times. I'm normally pretty good at these kinds of things but I'm assuming I may have somehow crimped one of the ribbon cables.

My question: If something is damaged, is it more likely the cable on the back of the heat-sink that is damaged, or the home button ribbon cable itself? I realize that I will lose TouchID if its the latter, I just want to know what my options are. I'm having trouble searching the issue because everyone else has the issue where the TouchID doesn't work (for obvious reasons) but mine is working just fine.

Thanks for any advice.

Joshua Ryan -

Hi everyone, I replaced the home button on my cell phone iphone 6+, the home button functionality works just fine, however the biometrics fingerprint reader does not work anymore. Any suggestions? Thank you

J Jesus Perez -

Unfortunately, as stated in the introduction to this guide, that outcome is normal. For security reasons, the fingerprint sensor is coded to your phone's logic board at the factory. If you replace the button, you'll lose the fingerprint sensor function. Only Apple has the capability to pair new Touch ID sensors to existing phones. As far as I know, there are only two ways around this: (1) replace both your home button and logic board with a factory-paired home button and logic board harvested from another phone, or (2) pay Apple for an out-of-warranty repair (meaning you ship your phone to them and they give you a refurb in return).

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi guys, I replaced my front assemblyHi guys, an I'm having an issue with my home button: The TouchID is working fine, but the home button being pressed is not working. Why??What happens?I've just checked all connections and cables are ok...thanks so much.

tiagoenascimento -

I am using 6 plus my phone home button heats always and drains the battery .Touch Id shows "Failed to set up Touch ID".I do know what to do. Please help me.............

Karankumar Kk -

Where RUS language?

Michael JaNuaRy -

Hello my name is ammy I am from India my question is I have a iPhone 6 Plus some kind of reason I am change iPhone screen and home button after that my scanner doesn't work .Give me some suggestions

ambrish singh -

Hello Ambrish,

Unfortunately replacing the home button on the iPhone 6 Plus renders the Touch ID functionality useless. Jeff Suovanen replied with an excellent answer on this topic a couple of comments above this one.

Scott Havard -

what happens if you loosen the home button socket as a result of trying to disconnect the Home button? My Touch ID doesn't work and I noticed the the home button socket is very loose now. Is that a reason why it isn't working?

Dipesh -

Is there a way to test the Home Button to confirm that is in fact faulty?

Sam Crismon -

muito bom esse ifixit estou amando parabéns

ncesar133 -

i changed my home button it functions well but when i connect my iPhone to charger, home button stops working!!

When i remove the lighting cable it again starts working normally. What can be the issue??

Rishabh Madaan -

HI @rishabh_ this is actually a common issue! Charging can often interfere with the Touch ID’s sensors. Be sure you’re using an authentic Apple charging cable!

Sam Goldheart -

Thank you @Sam Lionheart for you reply:)

Actually in my case there was i think an electornic interfarence between my touch id metal tray support and lightning connector’s metal (which is on the top of it). I seprated them with a thin rubber gasket layer and it started working fine without any interfarence even on charging:)

Btw thank you once again for your concern :)

Rishabh Madaan -

Oh interesting! Thanks so much for sharing your issue and solution! Great job on your fix =)

Sam Goldheart -

I bought a replacement kit for my cracked screen and am finding out that the new one I ordered doesn’t have the connection already installed for my home button to snap back in when replacing which means I have to bring the 3D screen over to the new screen? How much of it do I have to take off of my old broken screen to be able to connect my home button again?

Jess -

Hi, I replaced my home button and the new one works but I can’t close the phone back up. The screen wont close properly towards the bottom near the home button. I’ve reseated the button a few times but I still can’t get it to properly close. The only thing missing is the rubber gasket around the screw holes which popped out and got lost when I replaced the button. The home button gasket is still there and fits fine. I’m not sure how to fix this.

Jason Rivera -

Did you find an answer? I’m hitting the same issue, I replaced the home button and now it won’t close. I’ve double/triple checked everything is anchored down correctly and where it should be but still can’t close it.

Hugo -

According to another professional sit, If changing the original home button to new one from the iPhone, It will be not worked the finger stamp recognition function. It seems the button or cable has the identification which must be aligned with the iPhone registration. Which part of unit has the identification? on the home button? Please teach me it.

Bob -

The answer is already presented in here.

It has in the home button.

Need to restore the original home button

Bob -

I had a bad cracked screen so I replaced the screen and the home button, both are new. I’m having two issues at the moment:

- home button doesn’t work

- phone does not close

The screen itself works, I can swipe left/right but the home button does not work. I’ve carefully attached the ribbon cable (I think it only goes in one direction, where the ribbon cable slightly folds over and connects to the ribbon from the screen), is it possible I received a bad button? Also, I can’t close the phone now. I’ve made sure everything is securely fasten and cleaned the excess old phone gasket around the edges but still can’t close it, everything is flush except at the bottom where the two screws are next to the charging port.

Any ideas/suggestions on either of my issues would be greatly appreciated, my son is dying without his phone :(

Thanks in advance.

Hugo -

Tengo una chapita en forma de U que nose donde va ubicado, alguien podrá ayudarme?

Arrimada Priscila -