Remplacement du LCD inférieur et du tactile de la Nintendo 3DS XL 2015 LCD

Escrito Por: Guillaume Blas
  • Comentários: 88
Remplacement du LCD inférieur et du tactile de la Nintendo 3DS XL 2015 LCD

Dificuldade

Modérée

Passos

20

Tempo necessário

1 heure

Introdução

  1. klktHCVYwld2jPbu

    • Assurez-vous que l'appareil est éteint avant de commencer. Le non-respect de cette consigne peut entraîner un choc électrique ou des dommages à l'apapreil.

    • Placez la 3DS à l'envers. Enlevez la cartouche de jeu, écouteurs, chargeur, stylet et tout ce qui pourrait être connecté à la console.

  2. ItsctXxYnpWHaGbE

    • A l'aide d'un tournevis JIS #0, dévissez les deux vis sur l'arrière.

    • Les vis sont maintenues par des rondelles et ne doivent pas être enlevées complètement.

    My experience indicates that a JIS #1 is more appropriate here.

    John Menden -

    Same here, much more appropriate.

    Jack Wilson -

  3. DQAtfmJFRLFufoBV

    • Une fois les vis deserrées , ouvrez le capot arrière.

    In order to remove the back cover, slide it down towards you and then pry the cover off.

    Jon Fukumoto -

  4. OrrGelvrQqNI2rLT

    • La batterie est localisée sur la partie gauche de la console - pour l'enlever, utilisez la petite encoche en haut et au milieu puis soulevez la avec un outil pointu non métallique.

    • Retirez la carte SD en appuyant dessus avec votre ongle jusqu'à ce qu'elle s'enclenche et s'éjecte partiellement, puis retirez-la.

    Also you should remove any SD card at this point

    James Grant -

    Does this battery work on a NEW 3DS XL model?

    Froggy The Frog -

    This guide is for the New 3DS XL, which is called the 2015 3DS XL here on iFixit. If you're asking about the 3DS replacement battery advertised in the iFixit store, I believe it works for both new and old models.

    BabblingFishes -

    The battery is the same and will work on both the new and old models

    Jon Fukumoto -

  5. nCgM35SfWxS1LjiY

    • Avec un tournevis JIS #00, enlevez les six vis de 6mm sur le contour du second couvercle.

    I used a #00 instead it works better for a model form 2016

    matthewmccreary10 -

    remove the micro Sd card or the shell wont come off and damage the Sd card reader and the connecter

    Tyler Callander -

    If the J screws are not working, 1.3mm flathead worked for me.

    Dale J Peterson -

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    • À l'aide d'une pincette, retirez doucement les tampons en caoutchouc situés sur la partie supérieure de la 3DS. Cela révèlera deux autres vis de 6mm. Enlevez également ces vis avec un tournevis JIS #000.

    Can the rubber bumpers be replaced once you reassemble the 3DS? I'd really hate to have to take them out and never be able to put them back in, if I'm honest...

    Taylor Prince -

    Yep, we were able to put them back in quite easily after repeated teardowns! If they ever refused to stay in for some reason, you could always put a little bit of something sticky on them. (I use scrapbooking tape on my laptop's bumpers.)

    BabblingFishes -

    What happens if I strip one of these screws? How hard would into be to remove them?

    Thomas Ciavattone -

    very hard. i stripped 4 screws on my new 3ds xl and i haven’t been able to get them out. i even bought the precision screw extrator set and nothing the set sucked.

    marco martinez -

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    • Pour séparer la coque, soulevez la doucement du côté des charnières (de manière à libérer le port pour écouteurs) puis pivotez le vers les charnières pour exposer les cartes électroniques.

    • N'enlevez pas encore complètement la coque ou vous risquez d'abîmer les fines nappes qui sont encore connectées à la carte mère.

    I accidentally opened it and broke the ribbon cable to the r and zr buttons by accident. How do I fix it?

    Spider Soda -

    You have to replace the whole thing.

    Kevin Canto -

    I'm viewing this guide not because I wanna replace the motherboard, but because I broke the ribbon cable for the r and zr buttons during another repair. How would I go about fixing that exactly?

    Nahdia P -

    Remove and replace. Ribbon cables are practically irrepairable.

    Isak -

  8. qB2QkMgZUY13Oebv

    • Utilisez une paire de pinces pour libérer les deux connecteurs des nappes de boutons L / R / ZL / ZR de la carte mère. Vous pouvez maintenant enlever complètement la coque arrière et la mettre de côté.

    I discovered that there is enough clearance to slide the Game Cartridge Slot assembly out without removing the motherboard. Just remove the two connectors going to the Cartridge Slot assembly and take out the 3 screws holding it down. There were two screws that look like they are holding the assembly down, but they are only holes through the assembly and don’t actually hold it down. At least on the Pokemon version, New 3DS XL that I had.

    Reed Deemer -

    Can confirm, it's leagues easier to do it that way than to go to the trouble of removing the entire motherboard, potentially screwing something up in the process. Thank you so much for sharing this alternative method!

    João Gaspar -

    I third this alternative method for D-pad replacement. To add to the previously noted detail, you also need to disconnect a 3rd connector going to the Cartridge Slot assembly, the one going to the D-pad Board itself which is underneath the Cartridge Slot assembly, which is shown at a later step in this guide. Also, I found I needed to loosen the two screws on the motherboard located nearest the Cartridge Slot assembly in order to get enough clearance to slide the assembly out, as there are two plastic guide stands that hold the assembly in place which the motherboard otherwise holds too tightly to pass. Otherwise, incredibly smooth sailing, minimal connectors removed, and my New 3DS LL import model finally has a working left/right again. Thanks everyone!

    Chris St-Louis -

  9. 4iBjfT6EbMXjfUP1

    • Utilisez une pince à épiler pour relever le petit rabat de verrouillage à charnière afin de déverrouiller le connecteur ZIF fixant le ruban du tampon circulaire.

    • Le câble se replie sur lui-même et pénètre dans le connecteur ZIF par la gauche, mais le clapet de verrouillage du connecteur se relève par la droite. Une erreur courante consiste à essayer de tirer du côté où se trouve le câble, ce qui risque de casser le connecteur.

    • Faites glisser le ruban hors du connecteur ZIF.

    • Il peut être plus simple de dévisser et de retirer d'abord le Circle Pad, puis de débrancher le câble. De même, lors de la réinstallation du Circle Pad, vous pouvez d'abord rebrancher le câble, puis remettre l'appareil en place.

    Is not the right side, the switch must be pull to the left, otherwise people will brake it.

    DartzSoryu -

    I suggest removing the joystick first, swing to left side, then lift up on ZIF connector from the right. You’re able to pull ribbon cable out easier from the left at that point w/o breaking it, as I did.

    Dylan Riffel -

    Thank you for taking the time to help a fellow gamer, blessings upon you.

    Chris Lewis -

    How did you fix it? I did the same thing to mine and broke the connector

    Kyle Scott -

    2nd the removing of the joystick first via the two screws and to be careful handling the plastic washer underneath. It’s coated with a Teflon type material to aid in stick movement. also use a finger nail over tweezers any change you get. A nail is less rigid with natural give and less likely to break plastic latches. If it doesn’t open from the end you expect, stop, and try the other side right away. Be gently.

    Shiftnumlock -

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    • Avec un tournevis JIS #000, enlevez les deux vis de 4mm qui fixent le pad circulaire.

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    • Soulevez le boîtier du pad circulaire pour l'enlever. Il pourrait y avoir quelques frictions mais pas besoin de forcer.

    When reinstalling the circle pad casing, you'll need to open up the console and move the circle pad itself around to help the two parts align.

    NoScope -

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    • Localisez le connecteur doré avec un câble rouge en haut à gauche de la carte mère. Soulevez le délicatement avec vos doigts vers le haut pour l'enlever.

    • Utilisez une pincette pour débrancher l'unique nappe du connecteur.

    • Ne faites pas ce qu'on a fait -- Faites très attention de ne pas tirer sur le câble rouge.

    MDR j'avais vu cette erreur il y a un petit moment... et vous pouvez ajouter, ne pas casser le connecteur comme sur la photo !

    Sylvain Delreux -

    Use a spudger to remove the red cable plug.

    Luis Leon -

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    • À l'aide d'une paire de pinces, tirez délicatement les quatre nappes marquées hors de leurs connecteurs ZIF sur les bords de la carte mère.

    • Ces connecteurs ZIF sont maintenus en place par friction et n'ont pas de verrous : soulever les rabats de ces connecteurs les casserait !

    • Trois des connecteurs de ruban sont dotés de languettes de serrage en plastique qui recouvrent le ruban pour l'empêcher de glisser. Utilisez une pince pour les relever avant de retirer le ruban.

    • Ce connecteur de nappe peut également être doté d'un rabat de serrage en plastique, mais il diffère des autres, mais ressemble à celui utilisé pour le Circle Pad. Soulevez délicatement le rabat du côté opposé à la nappe pour retirer le câble.

    • Ce connecteur figurait auparavant parmi ceux sans verrouillage, mais sur la plupart des systèmes, voire tous, il en est équipé. Retirer ou réinsérer ce câble sans le déverrouiller l'endommagera et nécessitera le remplacement du numériseur de l'écran tactile . Heureusement, l'écran LCD utilise d'autres connecteurs ZIF, ce qui devrait fonctionner correctement.

    • Si, sur votre système, ce connecteur n'est pas équipé d'un système de verrouillage, ne tirez pas sur le rabat ! Il devrait s'ouvrir facilement ; sinon, il n'est probablement pas prévu pour se verrouiller, mais simplement pour maintenir le câble en place par friction. Dans ce cas, essayez de retirer délicatement le câble du connecteur.

    • Lors du remontage de l'appareil, veillez à rabattre les pinces ZIF.

    • Le lecteur de carte SD est montré démonté sur la photo mais ce n'est pas obligatoire pour démonter la carte mère.

    Hi,

    Can you pls inform me the purpose of the topmost red marked ZIF transparent flex cable, I wish to repair my N3DS XL but I am missing this flex cable (for which part is this cable relevant).

    Thanks

    Khusro -

    I don't have the model on me for reference, but if I remember correctly, it's for the bottom screen.

    BabblingFishes -

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WQY7N9?psc... I believe

    Michael Zaeus -

    I think it should be noted that the upper most ZIF is incorrectly labelled here as one to remove with tweezers and not to try to open the clamp. I did this recently and have now broken my brand new 3ds. This cable is for the digitizer at the front of the bottom screen. So my touch screen no longer works. I now need to carry out a further repair. Just a heads up.

    Simon Lyell -

    Accurate. I have to purchase a new digitizer because of this. I tore the conductors in the cable removing it from the ZIF connector. And I’m really very angry that no correction has been made in the almost 9 months since you posted.

    Sabs Like Labs -

    Sabs Like Labs, can you please share a picture of your connector ? last time I dismounted one I had no problems with this connector but maby there are different versions ?

    Guillaume Blas -

    Zoe, I don’t suppose you would know what part to search for to replace one of these lock-less friction connectors? Before this article posted I partially broke one of mine thinking it had a lock and would like to replace it. The old one still works but I have to fiddle with it to get a good connection now. The one I broke is nearest to the cartridge socket.

    Arie Beugelsdijk -

    &&^& all those tutoriel now is just break my new 3ds &&^& you internet

    xavier delfini -

    I broke my connectors the little gray pieces broke not the touch screen and the joy stick are broken.

    mcoughlin625 -

    Wish I’d read the comments first, messed up this connection pretty bad too.

    bajah -

    Glad I read the comments first! The topmost red connector DOES have a clamp you need to flip up to release.

    BBW -

    I can confirm there are two different versions of the clip. One flips up and just pushes in

    thomas rhymestine -

    As others have mentioned, the topmost red connector HAS A CLAMP that you need to flip up. It seems like the creator of this guide has a 3ds with older board revision. With multiple people already having brought up the issue, the creator should absolutely update this guide to note the differences as others have already broken their devices due to this guide.

    Jason He -

    Can confirm that the top most connector has a clamp on mine as well. tore the ribbon cable taking it out and now my bottom screen touch screen is unresponsive. also if you are on this guide looking to replace the game card reader, i also found out after trying to replace mine … You DO NOT need to remove the motherboard in order to replace it !

    Harry Appleton -

    I swear there isn't a new 3ds XL tutorial out there without wrong steps ending up in destroying your device… Can ifixit confirm they've read the comments and fixed the guide?

    Anrei -

    Then digitizer absolutely should be updated to note, I also broke the GREY clamp off, when treying to remove, and bought a new one.

    I believe this to be the replacement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WQY7N9?psc...

    Michael Zaeus -

    I also ruined the digitizer connector thinking it had a lock (yes, I failed to read the guide correctly). I ordered another motherboard that cost me $100 (ifixit had none in stock, only option on ebay) only to find out it still doesn't work (now for some reason no button nor touchscreen work which doesn't even make sense since they all have different connectors). Please update this guide to point people to just remove the card reader without taking the motherboard off. I could have avoided all this by just replacing the card reader directly.

    Aristeu Rozanski -

    Wow...ifixit is flat out lying about that top connector. There is no such thing as 2 different board revisions. ALL models have the clamp type connector. If you zoom in you can clearly see the creator has broken off the clamp in the pictures and is misrepresenting it as a friction connector. Unbelievable.

    deepakdamodara -

    I just broke the not clip connectors thinking they were the ones that flip... Please, how can I fix the connectors?

    [deleted] -

    I broke the ZIF connectors by lifting them up, now from not being able to enable wifi to completely unusable. PUT THE WARNING BEFORE THE STEP!

    If anybody want an actual, clear video breakdown and reassemble, I recommend this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUTVR3Ln...

    luoisLL -

    I had the digitizer problem too; forgot that that connector does have a clamp, and now my digitizer is broken because I tried to reinsert it without unlocking it. I have edited this step so it labels the connector correctly.

    Rain Shinotsu -

    is the wide ribbon cable the one that connects to the upper screen? my 3ds upper screen is backlit but not displaying images and would really like to be able to use it again, but i don’t know what to do

    coalmine -

    Which one? There are the ones in the corner that do go to the top half of the device, and there's the one to the left of it that connects to the lower LCD under the board. For the upper assembly, the cable that connects on the top side (the side facing the user in this picture) is for the camera assembly; the upper screen is the one that goes to the underside of the mainboard and folds 90°. (And for thoroughness's sake, the one that goes to the underside and does not fold is for the speaker and sliders.)

    Honestly, though, if you're looking to replace the upper screen, you should watch one of the tutorials on YouTube. The tutorials for top half fixes here on iFixit are very incomplete and need a massive overhaul.

    Rain Shinotsu -

    Thank you i broke my 3ds now

    Dev -

    What's the issue? I take it one of the cables got messed up, but do you know which one?

    Rain Shinotsu -

  14. FUosIVbdGfyBwmcI

    • Avec un tournevis JIS #000, enlevez les six vis de 4mm sur les bords de la carte mère.

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    • Pivotez doucement la carte mère à 90 degrés vers les charnières pour révéler deux connecteurs ZIF supplémentaires sous la carte.

    • Les deux ont des verrous qu'il faut soulever. Celui de gauche est long et noir; celui de droite est plus court et blanc. Soulevez les clapets, otez les nappes et retirez la carte mère.

    • Notez bien de quelle manière les nappes se placent dans leurs connecteurs, ils sont différents.

    9-15 aren't necessary at all. Its a super easy fix step 16 is sufficient.

    Javier Rodriguez -

    I think you might be confused; this is a guide for replacing the motherboard, not the entire bottom half of the unit.

    BabblingFishes -

    The top says this is a guide for the directional pad though

    Jimmy -

    Oh! Apologies; I didn't realize iFixit duplicated comments for duplicate steps. The message alert directed me to the motherboard replacement guide. Whoops.

    Anyway, as I recall, the card reader was more safely and easily removed once the motherboard was out of the way. But I agree that it was likely doable without. Thank you for the input!

    BabblingFishes -

    What does changing the motherboard do, is it if u like bricked your system or what?

    Josh TRW -

    Agree here. I’m doing the job to replace the lower screen, and connecting these two cables at the corner was the hardest part of reassembly. I would have done the job without disconnecting these.

    BBW -

    Getting the ribbons back in can be a challenge but don’t give up. Pull them taught and try to work at an angle that give you the most length.

    Shiftnumlock -

    Do you know the name of the shorter zif connector, or how to order it? I am talking about the one that is on the botton side of the board,that sometime it is hard to connect the ribbon cable. I think it has like 30 pins. Thank you.

    Marcos Cabral -

    What is the name or how to order the small zif connectors that is on the bottom side of the board, I think it has like 30 pins. Thank you

    Marcos Cabral -

    I just want to swap out lcd screens, what steps can I omit? this is the only bottom screen guide online and so many bricks wtf can’t someone make a video like top lcds there are many.

    joey grimes -

    Update about the commentaries above :

    If your goal is to replace something in the top part of the console, steps 9-15 are still necessary as all of the components up there travel through the R hinge to connect to the main board.

    - Top screen and Audio/3D cable connect to the back of the motherboard shown at step 15 (screen is the left one shown on the illustration).

    - Camera bar connects to the front of the motherboard (step 13, shown as the up-and-rightmost orange connector)

    - Wifi antenna connects to the antenna connector (step 12), probably the easiest to replace without disconnecting the motherboard since it doesn't involve rolling up and threading a flat cable through the hinge.

    Albert Enstein -

    Those last two ribbons were a serious PAIN to get back in on mine and it was corroded, tried cleaning the short middle one with isopropyl, fingers crossed!!

    James Lloyd -

    Yeah, those two are a pain. I kinda figured out how to get them back on once, but it still wasn’t that easy. I’d have to refresh myself on it too, which tbh I’d rather not have to.

    Rain Shinotsu -

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    • A l'aide d'un tournevis JIS #000 enlevez les 3 vis

    • Retirez ensuite le lecteur de cartouche en le soulevant.

    Missing an instruction for releasing the connector left of the top screw. The black latch to flip up is on the back (lower) side of the plug, then the connector pulls out of the front (top).

    BBW -

    Yes, as BBW said, this is missing an instruction to release the ZIF connector left of the top screw. The latch needs to be flipped up on the lower side of the plug.

    Jason He -

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    • La pièce marquée en rouge est le support de l'antenne NFC, il faut l'enlever avant d'accéder au bloc LCD/Tactile.

    • Dégagez les clips du support plastique de l'antenne NFC à l'aide d'un outil fin sur le haut et le bas puis détachez-le.

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    • Glissez un outil plat entre le support noir du LCD/Tactile et le boitier de la console puis soulevez-le doucement. Glissez ensuite un médiator en dessous pour le maintenir.

    • La nappe fléchée en rouge n'est pas vraiment génante mais il faut quand même faire attention à ne pas l'endommager pendant cette étape.

    • Ensuite, vous pouvez soit soulever l'ensemble en le poussant par dessous, soit continuer à faire le tour pour déclipser l'ensemble et l'extraire.

    un métronome ? un mediator non ?

    Jucost -

    C’est ça quand on fait de la technique et de la musique !! Effectivement, c’est bien un mediator !!

    Guillaume Blas -

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    • Glissez un outil fin entre le LCD et le boitier noir de l'ensemble puis soulevez doucement. Le LCD devrait sortir sans forcer.

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    • Chauffez les contours du tactile pour le décoller plus facilement puis poussez le doucement par dessous avec vos doigts pour l'extraire.

Conclusão

Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez les instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

Autor(a)

Guillaume Blas

Membro desde: 20/12/16

1309 Reputação

17 comentários

I followed this guide to the letter last night on my hyrule gold new 3ds XL (from hence forth I will refer to this unit as my “old n3dsXL”) before attempting the same repair on my new unit. It worked fine on my old n3dsXL. So I went ahead with doing the same repair on my new unit.

Well it went fine till I tried to turn it on. The blue light comes on then after a few seconds there’s a “pop” sound and the unit turns back off. Can anyone tell me what just happened here?

Also tried putting the original touch screen back in the new unit and it still does the same pop sound and shuts off

Rachel Bell -

You might need to reseat the cables i had this issue on my old ds lite and my old n3ds all i had to do was that and it fixed it for me also if that doesn’t work get a cotton swab and dip it in rubbing alcohol and clean the end of the ribbon cables then re insert them.

Joseph Federico -

Same thing happened to me my first time—brief blue light but would not power on. Tore it down and re-connected all the cables more carefully the second time. That fixed it.

BBW -

I have the same problem try (Dont push that hard) to push down on the small connector under the bottom screen (the touchscreen cable i think)

Daniel Czetwertynski -

I just disassembled my new 3ds xl to clean my lower screen and touch sensor following this guide, it went smoothly but now everything works except the touch sensor, why??

Francesco Baldacchini -

I have done this successfully three times now—thank you for the excellent guide. Newcomers should know there is one ERROR and one OMISSION in the procedure. (1) ERROR - In Step 13, the topmost ZIF connector marked in red *does* have a clamp, unlike the other four. If you attempt to pull the connector loose without opening the clamp you will break it—see the frustrated comments to Step 13 for examples. (2) OMISSION - At Step 16, before removing the cartridge drive you must unplug the connector at the top of the component. This is shown as unplugged in the photo, but the step is missing from the written instructions. The clamp on this plug loosens on the *opposite* side from where the cable is inserted, unlike the other clamps in the guide.

BBW -

Because of you I broke my cable connector for the touch. Thank you very much.

asd -

i used the guide and broke the digitizer and i didn’t have the plastic thing on my model. the galaxy style.

Daniel Beaston -

Do I have to do step 20 if I’m only looking to swap out my LCD?

Stephen T -

No you do not have to disassamble the digitizer if you only want to change the LCD.

Jannik Seuß -

I just want to swap out lcd screens, what steps can I omit? this is the only bottom screen guide online and so many bricks wtf can’t someone make a video like top lcds there are many.

joey grimes -

I just need to clean around the touchscreen because all of the bottom section buttons have stopped working. I’ve gotten everything taken apart, but the instructions don’t mention a double sticky tape that is between the touchscreen and the case. In my case, the double sticky tape came up and twisted so that it is now unusable, I can’t seem to find the double sticky tape mentioned on any sites. How do, or can, I buy a replacement? Do I have to buy a completely new touchscreen just to replace the double sticky tape?

Greg Wilson-Lindberg -

It’s the Tessa tape sold here.

Matthew D. H. -

Does anyone have a link or a guide for replacing JUST the ribbon cable on this console? Can't seem to find anything useful or meant for just for replacing the ribbon cable

2_kan -

Does the Lower LCD come with a touch screen or do I have to buy that separately on eBay?

Calvin -

it depends on where you buy it from, some vendors sell the lower LCD with the digitizer on, others do not

Nyuku -

I did this repair and the screen works great but now im having an issue where the game card reader is having a very hard time reading 3 ds games while ds games are read right away. Anyone still here and have and idea why?

John E -