Introdução

Use this guide to replace a worn-out or dead battery in your Apple Watch Series 7.

Note: The battery replacement procedure for the 41 mm Series 7 Apple Watch differs slightly from the 45 mm version. This guide shows how to replace the battery for both sizes.

Before you begin, make sure you have the appropriate replacement battery for your watch. You will only need a Tri-point Y000 screwdriver during the battery replacement in the 45 mm model.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions. For your safety, discharge your battery below 25% before disassembling your device. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair.

This guide shows the procedure on the cellular/LTE version of the watch, but the GPS-only version is similar.

You’ll need replacement adhesive to reattach components when reassembling the device.

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    • Because the gap between the screen and watch body is so thin, an iFlex is needed to separate the two.

    • Protect your fingers by keeping them completely clear of the iFlex edge. If in doubt, protect your free hand with a heavy glove, such as a leather shop glove or gardening glove.

    • Be careful not to apply too much pressure, as this might cause the iFlex to slip and cut you, or damage the watch.

    • Wear eye protection. If the opening procedure is performed incorrectly or with too much pressure, the glass could crack, sending small glass shards flying.

    • Attach or remove the watch band as needed to provide more control as you make repairs.

    Destroyed my watch screen using this method. See other comments in step 4. Do not recommend using a knife right where the data cable is.

    Joe -

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    • Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the screen for at least two minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath.

    • A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the watch—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

    • You may need to reheat the iOpener and repeat this procedure several times until the display adhesive softens.

    Can confirm that if you want this to work, pop the iopener in for around 45seconds and then let it sit on the watch for 6 minutes, 2 minutes is just not enough.

    Jeremiah Yoder -

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    • Don't grip the iFlex or similar metal tools by the edges—they're very sharp. Consider wearing gloves to protect your hands.

    • Insert the iFlex at a downward angle between the bottom edge of the screen and frame.

    • The Apple Watch Series 7 display is equipped with a plastic bezel on its rear side. If you want to reuse your display, avoid using too much pressure with the iFlex or you may separate the bezel from the screen.

    Tried this for almost an hour, and I could not lift the display off at all. Broke the screen and chipped pieces of the screen as well.

    Excalibert89 -

    me too, I broke the screen

    twstanek@gmail.com -

    Yeah prolly gonna suggest an actual spudger for this step, or to be more detailed. Kept reheating the IOpener every 10mins keeping the watch under it for 5mins etc and it never budged after 3 hours of fiddling. Eventually broke the fine edge of the blade and scratched the casing, now the blade can't catch the groove and $8 down the drain.

    Jeremiah Yoder -

    As experienced with the user above I tried heating it up with the IOpener 6x every 10 mins and it’s still tough to open. At first I left it a full 10 minutes to try and soften the adhesive. Then the advised 1 min and 30. it still won’t lift up. A spudger will definitely help but will prolly break it if pulled too much.

    Neal Quioyo -

    Four rounds with the iOpener I got it open... but then.... a cascade of errors...

    At some point while opening I saw a flash of lines across the screen. Significant?

    Cleaned adhesive off the case and screen for an hour with Q tips and alcohol... perfect...

    The replacement adhesive was not like in the photo, the tab to peel it was on a different corner, not a good start, it was very hard to position maybe easier for a lefty. Since it was so difficult to position, the blue protective cover was gone by the time It was well positioned with a spudger so once it was ready to test, it was sealed and the question will always be, is a cable unseated or was the display damaged opening it as it failed, it's awake, display is dark, it vibrates and makes noises with find my, but...

    So I tried to reopen it and check the cables and the glass popped off the OLED, the new adhesive which I worked so hard to ensure integrity for unfortunately gripped way too well. I'll have to destroy it to pull off the display. :(

    David Neff -

    No dice. Used the iOpener three times, then cut my finger open because there was no good place to hold the watch when the blade slipped. I give up.

    Roxanne Harvey -

    I tried it exactly this way of opening the display with the exact same tools as given here. starting with peeling on the short screen side with the fine blade. But then white lines appeared on my screen... Why? because exactly at that spot are the flat cables connecting the screen with the watch. Such a stupid recommendation from iFixit. It seems like they just copied the text over from another repair without validating it. now I broke not one but two watch displays because of that. I am very diappointed. I dont recommend doing this repair by yourself....

    Marlon Repair -

    I got it to work with a single heating of the iOpener. Heat the iOpener and set it on the watch as described for 90 seconds. Using the edge of the knife (I used an exacto knife), gently press the edge into seam between the glass and case, you'll see it sink in very slightly. Pull the edge out, move it down along the seam a couple millimeters, and then press it into the seam again. Keep working it down along the seem, slowly pressing the edge of the knife in and pulling back. After about a minute of this the edge of the glass started separating from the case, and I was able to negotiate the corner with the knife. I stuck a spudger underneath the raised edge and continued working around the screen edge until it was completely separated.

    Levi Noecker -

    Same issue as others. Using an exact at the position described cut the data cable to the screen and destroyed my watch. Will be requesting a refund.

    Jeremy Harkin -

    Just destroyed my watch. Followed the instructions exactly as described. The place where they tell you to put the knife is where the data cable is, now my watch just shows random lines. The screen was not even lifting off yet, I had just pushed the knife at that spot and pried up.

    Joe -

    Same here. I just destroyed my 45mm stainless steel Watch series 7 by following this guide. As soon as i inserted the blade not even a millimeter in the position shown in the pictures (bottom end of the display) is seem to have seperated important display data lines. There is not even a warning for this in the instructions. I could have used the watch perfectly fine for several more months, the battery was just at 75% capacity. Now i have to decide between trying to fix it with an expensive replacement display or buy a new watch! Not happy, will be contacting customer service asap.

    noname -

    Same from me, this instruction destroyed my 45 mm watch as well. The display is broken and the new Akku doesn't work, because the connector is broken.

    Fritz -

    Se avessi letto prima i commenti precedenti non avrei neanche tentato la sostituzione della batteria, in quanto in questo passaggio quasi sicuramente danneggerete lo schermo come ho fatto io e altri che hanno provato, in pratica anche se il vetro rimane intatto, gli strati che compongono lo schermo si scolleranno tra loro e non funzionerà più, inizialmente vedrete comparire delle righe gialle e questo significa già che lo schermo è già andato. Adesso non mi rimane che buttarlo perché spendere altri 150€ per lo schermo nuovo non ne vale la pena su un dispositivo così vecchio, inoltre ho la batteria e l'adesivo che avevo già acquistato e le politiche di reso ti fanno desistere da rispedirla indietro per una spesa così bassa quale la batteria. Quindi il mio consiglio principale è non tentate neanche di aprirlo e semmai proprio volete provarci, acquistate la batteria dopo aver portato a termine la rimozione della vecchia.

    Gianluca Risso -

    Exactly the same issue as the users above. If you insert a tool at the bottom edge as shown, you are very likely to damage a ribbon cable going to the screen, resulting in the screen malfunctioning (vertical white bands in my case), and your watch will be ruined. I think you're better off starting from the lower half of the left edge (near the speaker, the opposite side from the buttons). I wish I'd read these comments before trying my repair.

    Ken -

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    • Prying up the screen may take multiple attempts. If you're having trouble, apply more heat and try again.

    • With one hand, push down firmly on the watch's frame to secure it in place.

    • With your free hand, hold the iFlex and push the edges up to make it more rigid.

    • The iFlex should be slightly "U" shaped.

    • Pry up the screen enough for the iFlex to lay flat on its own.

    • The iFlex doesn't need to be inserted far, as it can easily damage the screen cables near the bottom right corner of the watch.

    • Leave the iFlex inserted under the screen.

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    • Do not insert your opening pick more than 3 mm under the screen when separating the adhesive, as you risk damaging your watches internals.

    • Keep the iFlex flat to maintain a gap between the screen and frame while inserting an opening pick.

    • Insert an opening pick between the screen and iFlex.

    • Remove the iFlex.

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    • Slide the opening pick around the bottom left corner and up the left edge.

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    • Slide the opening pick around the corner and along the long edge on the opposite side of the watch crown to slice the display adhesive.

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    • Slide the opening pick around the corner to slice the remaining adhesive on the short edge of the watch next to the watch crown.

    • Don't try to remove the display. It is still connected to the watch assembly.

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    • Be careful not to strain the display cables when you fold the display to the side.

    • Lift the display and carefully pull it towards the watch crown.

    • Swing the display open to an upward position.

    Hallo, ich habe leider beim Ausbau des Displays das Flexkabel beschädigt was zum Akku führt. Wie lässt sich dieses Kabel denn bitte tauschen? LG Thomas

    Th Ba -

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    • Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the rear side of your Apple Watch for at least two minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath the battery.

    • A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the watch—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

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    • From this point, the battery removal procedure for the 41 mm watch differs slightly from the 45 mm version.

    • If you're replacing the battery for a 41 mm watch, continue with this step.

    • If you're replacing the battery for a 45 mm watch, continue with this step.

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    • The following six steps show how to remove the battery from a 41 mm Apple Watch Series 7.

    • Insert an opening pick between watch body and the long edge of the battery.

    • Use constant, steady pressure to slowly pry up the battery.

    • Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

    • Don't try to remove the battery all the way yet. It is still connected to the motherboard.

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    • The battery flex cable is long enough to allow you to place the battery outside the watch housing, but avoid straining or folding the the cable sharply when you lift the battery out of its recess.

    • Carefully lift and swing the battery out of its recess and place it next to the watch body.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to peel the black protective tape off the ZIF connector.

    • Make sure to only peel the tape off the connector but avoid to remove it completely. Otherwise you have to replace the tape during reassembly.

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    • Use one arm of your tweezers or the pointed end of a spudger to pry up the lock bar on the ZIF connector securing the battery cable.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the battery cable out of the battery ZIF connector.

    • During reassembly make sure to push the cable all the way back into the ZIF connector before locking the it. Reapply the black tape on top of the connector to secure the battery cable or replace it with new one. Otherwise the battery cable may slip out of the connector and your watch won't turn on.

    A ZIF connector is "Zero Insertion Force". Do not make the mistake on the new battery that I did. Do not dbl-check and push on it again to make sure it's in. It's not like a USB plug where you can try and push it again.This ZIF connector will break off quite easily! And then you'll have to source the ZIF connector replacement, buy + learn the equipment for soldering it onto the motherboard. Too late, we bought a new one. Missed it by one little extra push. Remember what ZIF means.

    Bob Schmerda -

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    • Remove the battery.

    • Do not reuse the battery if it has been deformed or damaged, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.

    • If you're reusing your old battery during reassembly, you can reuse the existing adhesive to secure the battery during reassembly.

    • Secure a new battery with pre-cut adhesive or double-sided adhesive tape. In order to position it correctly, apply the new adhesive into the device at the places where the old adhesive was located, not directly onto the battery. Press the new battery firmly into place.

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    • The following six steps show how to remove the battery from a 45 mm Apple Watch Series 7.

    • Insert an opening pick between watch body and the long edge of the battery.

    • Use constant, steady pressure to slowly pry up the battery.

    • Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

    • Don't try to remove the battery all the way yet. It is still connected to the motherboard.

    Not a very good approach. Damaged back cover flex cable using triangular opening pick.
    Battery is well glued to motherboard and opening pick has just too little contact point.

    Better to start with metal prying tool from taptic engine side adding some drops of isopropyl alcohol from time to time.

    And of course take your time.

    Valdek Kangert -

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    • The battery flex cable is long enough to allow you to place the battery outside the watch housing, but avoid straining or folding the the cable sharply when you lift the battery out of its recess.

    • Carefully lift and swing the battery out of its recess and place it next to the watch body.

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    • Use a Tri-Point Y000 screwdriver to remove the 1.1 mm-long screw securing the battery connector bracket.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the battery connector bracket.

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    • Use a spudger to disconnect the battery cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

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    • Remove the battery.

    • Do not reuse the battery if it has been deformed or damaged, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.

    • If you're reusing your old battery, you can reuse the existing adhesive to secure the battery during reassembly.

    • Secure a new battery with pre-cut adhesive or double-sided adhesive tape. In order to position it correctly, apply the new adhesive into the device at the places where the old adhesive was located, not directly onto the battery. Press the new battery firmly into place.

    • During reassembly apply new adhesive where necessary after cleaning the relevant areas with isopropyl alcohol (>90%).

Conclusão

If possible, turn on your device and test your repair before installing new adhesive and resealing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.

Dominik Schnabelrauch

Membro desde: 23/11/16

252795 Reputação

14 comentários

Is it still waterproof after that? I swim daily. Watch is 2.5 years old doing great but the battery is at 76%.

Will the adhesive on the screen seal back up good enough?

Matt Reason -

Hi Matt,
retaining water resistance after the repair depends on how clean the mating surfaces are and how accurately the adhesive is reapplied. Your device will lose its factory-given IP (Ingress Protection) rating. Personally I wouldn‘t advise to go swimming with the watch after resealing it with tape.

Dominik Schnabelrauch -

if the socket that the battery plugs into breaks, is that something worth paying to fix, or should i just buy a new watch?

river D -

Bravissimo,tutto molto chiaro.

Aldo Sammartano -

will battery health show 100% after the replacement battery is installed? or will it still show service recommended? thanks!

joseetan -

Accidentally peeled the glass off instead of the entire display. Will I need to replace the display now or can the glass be affixed again?

kevlar -

Can you use iFixit's jimmy tool (Jimmy) instead of the curved razor blade to pry open the case?

Aaron -

I tried it exactly this way of opening the display with the exact same tools as given here. starting with peeling on the short screen side with the fine blade. But then white lines appeared on my screen... Why? because exactly at that spot are the flat cables connecting the screen with the watch. Such a stupid recommendation from iFixit. It seems like they just copied the text over from another repair without validating it. now I broke not one but two watch displays because of that. I am very diappointed. I dont recommend doing this repair by yourself....

Marlon Repair -

After replacing the battery half of my touch screen doesn't work anymore... Is this most likely caused by a bad connector or is something really broken?

Robert -

Same experience as Marlon. Just barely pressed the knife in exactly as in the photo and the screen turned to rainbow garbage lines. Apparently that is where the internal data cable is. This guide needs to be pulled.

Joe -

I would like to add additional text for steps 4, 5, 6, and 7 - make sure the adhesive under the display is softened, not just the adhesive for the glass cover.

I found that out the hard way.

The guide could be clearer on that point.

cee bee -

Should emphasize more on how careful one should be while removing the screen! I destroyed mine because I didn't know where the delicate components are...

z9d7f4yfpn -

It doesn’t explain how to reattach the display using the display adhesive strips. There are still a lot of components attached to the display itself. Are you supposed to stick the adhesive strips over the battery area and then press the display down with all those components on it, or how is this supposed to work?

Wieland Wuckasch -

This repair worked well, good to bring an old watch back to life. Pay attention to the warnings in steps 5 and 6 not to insert the tool too far, and it's perfectly possible to do without damaging the flex. If it feels like you're needing a lot of pressure to lift the screen, go back and re-heat!

One thing I should have paid more attention to is re-sealing the display. You'll need to order the display adhesive too, and find the guide to re-sealing (How to Reseal an Apple Watch). I did neither, and then had to order a poorer-quality adhesive, and didn't properly remove all traces of the old. Which left my display with a slight lip. But I can live with that until I have the time to re-do it.

Someone asked above whether battery health will show 100% or whether it will still show 'service recommended'. Mine now shows battery health 100%.

Overall, a moderately fiddly repair but this is a good guide. If carefully followed, it's well worth it to get your watch back to good health.

RobH -