Komplete Audio 2: Teardown

Escrito Por: Marvin
Publicado em: 14/12/25
  • Comentários: 0

Komplete Audio 2: Teardown

Publicado em: 14/12/25

Teardown

Introdução

In this guide, we will disassemble the Native Instruments Komplete Audio 2 to access the internal components and the main PCB.

This teardown is the necessary first step for various repairs, such as replacing a broken USB port, fixing audio jacks, or general cleaning. We will guide you through removing the bottom cover, safely disconnecting the ribbon cables, and detaching the front panel without damaging the plastic clips.

Since the chassis design is shared across the series, this guide is also relevant for the Komplete Audio 1 and Komplete Audio 6 (MK1/MK2).

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    • The bottom cover is secured by six screws. We will remove them in this step.

    • The center screw is concealed behind the product label. You may need to pierce or peel back the label to access it.

    • Place the device upside down.

    • Use a Phillips #1 screwdriver to remove the six screws from the bottom cover.

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    • The cover should open without much force once all screws are removed. If you encounter resistance, double-check that the middle screw has been removed.

    • There are plastic clips located at the Frontplate and at both sides of the Device.

    • Forcing the cover open will break the plastic clips!

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    • The main PCB has two ribbon cables connected to it. In this step, we will ensure they can be safely disconnected.

    • Unlock the ribbon cables by gently pulling the grey locking tabs of the connectors outwards (as indicated in the second image).

    • Newer models (often MK2) no longer use locking tabs (see Pictures); the cables are simply push-fit. If you have this version, do not try to unlock anything. Proceed directly to the next step to gently pull them out.

    • Disconnect both ribbon cables by gently pulling them out of their connectors.

    • You may need to wiggle the cables slightly side-to-side to loosen them from the sockets.

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    • There are 2 Screws located in the front corners, directly by the front panel.

    • With the screws removed, the front panel can now be unclipped from the top cover.

    • Gently pry the sides of the front panel.

    • Pull the front panel upwards until it detaches from the top cover.

    • This step requires some patience and finesse. Take your time and avoid applying excessive force to prevent damage.

    • The USB port is fitted with a plastic cover that is only loosely attached to the main PCB. It is prone to falling out once the board is removed. Keep an eye on it to ensure it doesn't get lost!

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    • The daughterboard (holding the top-row controls and/or inputs) is attached to the front panel housing.

    • Before separating the board, you must remove the control knobs from the front side. Pull them straight up with firm, even pressure. Avoid prying against the plastic faceplate to prevent scratches.

    • Remove the screws (and nuts on the potentiometers) securing the PCB to the plastic frame.

    • Once the all screws and fasteners are removed, gently lift the daughterboard away from the front panel.

    • Make sure you are cautious while removing the daughterboard! It is still connected to the Main PCB by a ribbon cable (FFC). Do not pull the board away abruptly, as this could damage the cable or the connector.

    • After gently moving the daughterboard to gain access, you can now disconnect the FFC (ribbon cable).

    • Unlock the connector by lifting the locking tab (if your model has one) and gently pull the cable out of the socket.

    • Once the cable is disconnected, the daughterboard can be completely removed from the housing.

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    • In this step, we will remove the Volume (Loudness) Wheel potentiometer and the Visualizer board from the top panel.

    • Loudness Wheel Potentiometer: This component is secured by a fastener on the outside and a screw on the inside.

    • Use a 10mm hex (Inbus) driver or wrench to remove the fastener securing the potentiometer to the top panel.

    • Remove the single screw securing the potentiometer from the inside of the chassis.

    • Visualizer Daughterboard: The visualizer board (LED display) is mounted separately.

    • Remove the two screws securing the Visualizer Daughterboard to the panel.

    • Once all screws and fasteners are removed, the boards should come loose. Be careful not to drop them.

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Marvin

Membro desde: 05/06/24

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