iPhone 17 Pro USB-C Port Assembly Replacement

Unplug all cables from your phone.

Hold the power and either volume button and slide to power off your phone.

Apply strips of packing tape to the cracked glass until it's completely covered—this will help keep the glass contained and allow the suction cup to stick.

Make sure there's a single strip of tape (not overlapping) across the bottom edge, big enough for a suction cup to fit on.

Use a P2 pentalobe screwdriver to remove the two 7.5 mm‑long screws on either side of the charging port.

Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.

Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the bottom edge of the screen until it's slightly too hot to touch.

Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the screen, as close to the edge as possible.

There's a plastic bezel on the underside of the screen that sits on the frame. Insert your pick here, making sure it's completely under the bezel.

There's a seam between the plastic bezel and the display panel. Don't insert your pick here or you'll separate the two, complicating the repair.

Pull up on the suction handle with strong, steady force until a gap forms between the screen and frame.

Insert the tip of an opening pick in the gap you just created.

The screen and ambient light sensor cables are located near the volume and Action buttons.

There are delicate spring contacts around the perimeter of the phone.

The underside of the screen has thin, metal clips that go into corresponding slots on the frame.

Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.

Leave the pick inserted under the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from re‑sealing.

Pull the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the screen.

Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the right edge of the screen.

Insert a second opening pick under the bottom right corner of the screen.

Slide the pick up the right edge to separate the adhesive and release the two clips.

Leave the pick inserted under the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from re‑sealing.

Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the top edge of the screen.

Insert a third opening pick under the top right corner of the screen.

Slide the pick along the top edge and just barely around the top left corner to separate the adhesive and release the two clips.

Leave the pick inserted under the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from re‑sealing.

Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the left edge of the screen.

Insert a fourth opening pick under the bottom left corner of the screen.

Slide the pick up the right edge to separate the adhesive and release the clip, stopping just before the volume up button.

Lift the screen straight up and swing it over the left edge, propping it up against a sturdy box or stack of books so the cables aren't strained.

Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the cable covers:

One 1.4 mm‑long screw for the screen and front sensor cable cover

One 1.3 mm‑long screw for the battery cover

Remove the two covers.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.

Use the tip of an opening pick or the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the screen and ambient light sensor press connectors.

Remove the screen.

Use a Torx Plus 4IP screwdriver to remove the screws securing the battery tray:

One 7.5 mm‑long screw

One 5.9 mm‑long screw

One 3.4 mm‑long screw

One 2.3 mm‑long screw

Nine 3.7 mm‑long screws

One 3.7 mm‑long screw

Use your finger to lift the top left corner of the battery tray and remove it.

Slide the tip of an opening pick along the top edge of the Taptic Engine to separate the plastic buffer strip adhered to it.

Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to remove the six screws securing the loudspeaker:

Two 2.7 mm‑long screws

Two 2.0 mm‑long screws

One 1.5 mm‑long screw

One 1.5 mm‑long screw attached to the bottom edge

Tilt the top edge of the loudspeaker out of its recess.

Slowly pull the loudspeaker away from the frame to release the adhesive.

Remove the loudspeaker.

Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to remove the two 2.0 mm‑long screws securing the ground clip.

Use tweezers to remove the ground clip.

Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to remove the three 2.0 mm‑long screws securing the flex antenna.

Use your fingers or a spudger to swing the flex antenna out of the way to access the screws beneath it.

Use a standoff screwdriver to remove the two 4.0 mm‑long screws securing the Taptic Engine.

Use your fingers to flip the Taptic Engine out of its recess and onto the edge of the iPhone.

Hold onto the Taptic Engine during the next step to prevent straining its cable.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up the Taptic Engine press connector and disconnect it.

Remove the Taptic Engine.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the lower microphone connector.

Remove the two screws securing the lower microphone:

One 3.2 mm-long standoff screw

One 3.1 mm-long JIS 00 screw attached to the bottom edge of the iPhone frame

Use a hair dryer or an iOpener to heat the bottom-right corner of the iPhone until it's warm to the touch.

Insert the point of an opening pick between the lower microphone and the frame.

Slide the pick along the edge to create a gap between the microphone and the frame.

Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the gap between the lower microphone and the frame.

Twist the spudger slowly to pry the microphone off the frame.

Remove the lower microphone.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two USB-C port assembly press connectors (one's underneath the other) from the bottom-left corner of the logic board.

Remove the screws securing the USB-C port assembly:

Three 1.5 mm‑long JIS 00 screws

Two 1.7 mm‑long JIS 00 screws

One 1.3 mm‑long JIS 00 screw

One 1.2 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw

Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to remove the 1.2 mm‑long screw securing the USB-C port assembly to the bottom left corner of the frame.

Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to remove the two 3.3 mm‑long screws securing the USB-C port to the bottom edge of the frame.

Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to remove the 1.2 mm‑long screw securing the USB-C port assembly to the right edge of the frame.

Use a hair dryer or an iOpener to heat the entire USB-C port assembly until it's warm to the touch.

Slide the point of an opening pick between the microphone module (left of the USB-C port) and the bottom edge of the frame.

Pry gently to separate the microphone from the frame.

Slide the opening pick under the USB-C port assembly, near the center.

Slide the pick towards the right edge of the frame to separate the adhesive holding the assembly.

Grab the USB-C port assembly with your fingers and slowly pull it away from the frame to remove it.

Carefully inspect your replacement USB-C port assembly and remove any adhesive liners.

Align the assembly with the bottom edge of the frame and lay it loosely in place.

Make sure the assembly tucks below the black plastic speaker channel.

Tuck the metal mounting tab's bend underneath the logic board. When it's properly positioned, the mounting tab's screw hole should line up correctly.

Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to install the two 3.3 mm‑long USB-C port screws to the bottom edge of the frame.

Make sure to install these screws in the holes marked in green, not red.

Install the USB-C port assembly screws:

Three 1.5 mm‑long JIS 00 screws

Two 1.7 mm‑long JIS 00 screws

One 1.3 mm‑long JIS 00 screw

One 1.2 mm‑long Y000 screw

Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to install the 1.2 mm‑long USB-C port assembly screw to the bottom left corner of the frame.

Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to install the 1.2 mm‑long USB-C port assembly screw to the right edge of the frame.

Use tweezers to remove the adhesive from where the microphone attaches to the frame.

Use your finger to align and press the microphone module onto the frame.

Use a hair dryer or an iOpener to heat the entire USB-C port assembly until it's warm to the touch. This helps the adhesive to bond better.

Use your finger to press and connect the two USB-C port assembly press connectors (one's underneath the other) to the logic board.

Use tweezers to remove the microphone adhesive gasket from the frame.

Use tweezers to align the microphone with the frame.

Slide the microphone into its recess and press it in place. There should be almost no gap between the microphone and the frame.

Use a hair dryer or an iOpener to heat the lower microphone until it's warm to the touch. This helps strengthen the adhesive bond.

Install the two lower microphone screws:

One 3.2 mm-long standoff screw

One 3.1 mm-long JIS 00 screw attached to the bottom edge of the iPhone frame

Use your finger to press and connect the lower microphone press connector.

Place the Taptic Engine upside down on the edge of the iPhone frame.

While holding the Taptic Engine with one hand, use your finger to press and connect the Taptic Engine press connector.

Flip the Taptic Engine over the frame and align it using its screw holes.

The Taptic Engine flex cable should fold neatly between the Taptic Engine and the frame.

Use a standoff screwdriver to install the two 4.0 mm‑long Taptic Engine screws.

Use your fingers or a spudger to fold the flex antenna down in place.

Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to install the three 2.0 mm‑long flex antenna screws.

Use tweezers to carefully place the ground clip in place.

Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to install the two 2.0 mm‑long ground clip screws.

Align the bottom edge of the loudspeaker with the frame and lay it in its recess.

Make sure the bottom-right screw tab seats properly against the frame. Gently bend it if it's out of place.

Use your finger to press down on the loudspeaker until it clicks in place.

Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to install the six loudspeaker screws:

Two 2.7 mm‑long screws

Two 2.0 mm‑long screws

One 1.5 mm‑long screw

One 1.5 mm‑long screw attached to the bottom edge of the iPhone frame

Use your fingers or a spudger to press the buffer strip back onto the top edge of the Taptic Engine.

Lay the battery tray in place.

Use a Torx Plus 4IP screwdriver to install the battery tray screws:

One 7.5 mm‑long screw

One 5.9 mm‑long screw

One 3.4 mm‑long screw

One 2.3 mm‑long screw

Nine 3.7 mm‑long screws

One 3.7 mm‑long screw

Use tweezers or your fingers to remove large pieces of adhesive from the frame perimeter.

Use a spudger to scrape the adhesive residue off the frame.

Use a lint-free cloth or a coffee filter to wipe in one direction along the perimeter of the frame to clean the adhesive residue.

If you're reusing your screen, apply a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to a microfiber or lint-free cloth and wipe around the perimeter to prepare the surface for new adhesive.

Without peeling any liners, lay the adhesive sheet over the frame to determine its proper orientation.

Grab the tab in the corner of the adhesive sheet and peel the liner to expose a third of the adhesive.

Carefully align the exposed edge of the adhesive strip with the corresponding edge of the iPhone's frame.

When it's correctly aligned, gently press the exposed adhesive strip onto the frame.

Continue peeling away the liner from the adhesive, gently pressing the adhesive into place.

Use a spudger to press the adhesive around the entire perimeter of your iPhone.

Use the pull tab to peel off the large front liner from the adhesive. The pull tab is often in a corner of the liner.

At this point, you'll still have liners covering the perimeter. Don't remove these liners yet—they prevent the adhesive from accidentally sticking while you reassemble your iPhone.

Set the iPhone screen next to the frame such that the screen cables can comfortably reach the logic board.

Use your finger or the flat end of a spudger to press and connect the two screen connectors onto the logic board.

Use your finger or the flat end of a spudger to press and connect the battery connector onto the logic board.

This is a good point to test your repair before sealing up your iPhone. Power on your iPhone and make sure it works as expected. Power it back down and continue reassembly.

Tuck the top edge of the battery connector cover under the cutout lip.

Align the cover by its screw hole and lay it in place.

Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to install the 1.2 mm‑long screw to secure the battery connector cover.

Tuck the left edge of the screen connector cover under the cutout lip.

Align the cover by its screw hole and lay it in place.

Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to install the 1.2 mm‑long screw to secure the screen connector cover.

With one hand hold the screen steady.

Use your fingers or a spudger to peel away all perimeter liners, exposing the adhesive.

Check the internals for any stray liners and remove them. There should be no liners remaining.

Lower the screen onto the frame, beginning with the top edge.

Press along the edges of the iPhone until the screen sits flush against the frame.

Firmly squeeze around the entire perimeter of the iPhone.

Use a hair dryer or a heat gun to heat the screen perimeter until it's slightly too hot to touch.

Use a P2 pentalobe screwdriver to install the two 7.5 mm‑long screws on either side of the charging port.