iPhone 11 Pro Max Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement

Passo 1

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

Wie soll mann das Handy ausschalten wenn das Display defekt ist oder nicht angeht?

Elias_Will Diamondblock - 12/04/20

Usáis mal el verbo remover

Vicente Tortajada -

Entferne die beiden 6,7 mm Pentalobe-Schrauben an der Unterkante des iPhones, Es ist Absurd !!!!!

Cornelius COSTA -

Passo 2

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.
Apple sells an Adhesive Cutter tool for cutting the display adhesive safely in their Self Repair Store.

Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?

Sloan Looney -

Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?

Clay Eickemeyer -

I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.

Clay Eickemeyer -

what fix kit?

Meow Purr -

Super late reply to original post but my pick was with the replacement screen and not the tools kit.

Nichol Augustus -

My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either

WILLIAM HARRIS -

Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.

AndyF -

My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary

Gijs Leegwater -

the picture shows 3 cm but the description says 3 mm's. Which one is it?

John Pena -

That is a misunderstanding. It is a ruler with a scale for cm, it shows 0.3 cm, i.e. 3 mm.

VauWeh -

Oh, come ON!

Big Ed -

It will ALWAYS be millimeters on a phone, but this step is ridiculous, skip it!

Leif DeWolf -

@leifdewolf I wouldn't skip it for a first repair.

Gabriel-Science -

It's not an Ifixit KIT if it doesn't include everything. You'll need to order the opening pic separately. Or head to Walmart like myself and look for guitar pics. Hopefully, this will work just as well.

Jaleeljb97@icloud.com -

No pick in mine as well. It’s really not clear that you have to order this separately when ordering an IPhone SE 202/2022 screen repair kit. Is this the case?

Jackson Castiglione -

Frustrated, I ordered a compact package where everything was encapsulated. Useless suction tools could not separate the screen. If it is unable to decouple the screen, then why sucking suction tools you have provided.

Shourob Datta -

For my kit the triangle pick was stuck inside the box with the screen not with the other tools maybe it's also there for you

Henry Scheibehenne -

Y’all are getting far, FAR too detailed with some of this stuff…. Measuring and marking the pick that you won’t actually use to open the device?!? lol that’s kinda funny. Just heat it up, grab a spudger, and the back just pops right off! The iFixit tech need to stick to the KISS method more often, you know KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!!! Like l, for reals, I’ve been doing this stuff for YEARS and using iFixit guides regularly and this is just ridiculous at this point!

Leif DeWolf -

Will the phone still work if the sensor assembly on the back of the screen is damaged?

Mutshidzi Rambau -

I don't have a pick, but how much better are these picks than an old credit card for opening an iPhone 13 mini?

mike eng -

an old credit card will do that job, although you'll have to pull a little bit more if the credit card is thicker than the picks, just again, be careful and don't insert it that far

Russ Torrez -

The pick in my iFixIt kit was packed with the battery, not with the rest of the toolkit.

Tony Houlihan -

Many of these comments are PURE GOLD. Seriously y’all, if you’re not sure if it should be 3mm or 3cm or whether you could find and use an alternative pick, mending an IPhone really isn’t for you. Find a responsible adult and get back to doing something simpler…

Alasdair Cameron - 13/07/25

indeed!!!! I agreee!!!

Lonnie -

I bought the kit of five just in case. I used two and marking them at 3mm was definitely helpful.

Megolina -

Funktioniert super. Habe vorher sicherheitshalber den Akku abgesteckt.

Lukas D - 07/01/26

Passo 3

If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the screen.

Passo 4

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

Passo 5

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Passo 6

Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.
Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.
Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next three steps.

Passo 7

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

Okey. Thats for the front. How about the ( Back Glass) Replacement. What degrees and air flow should be used there? Applies to iPhone 11 Pro Max and up to iPhone 16 Pro.

markus hoffsten -

Passo 8

If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.

Passo 9

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

Passo 10

Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage internal components.

Passo 11

There's a delicate cable along the right edge of your iPhone. Don't insert your pick here, as you may damage the cable.

Passo 12

Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the display cables.

Passo 13

The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.
Gently pull the right edge of the display down slightly (in the direction of the Lightning port).
Insert your pick into the top-right corner of the phone.

Passo 14

Continue pulling the display down (toward the Lightning port) as needed in order to make a gap large enough for the pick.
Slide the pick to the top left corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the front panel sensor array.

Passo 15

Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

Remover: Mover algo, agitándolo o dándole vueltas, generalmente para que sus distintos elementos se mezclen.

Vicente Tortajada -

Passo 16

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

Passo 17

Remove two 1.3 mm long Y000 screws securing the battery cover bracket.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

My Y000 didn’t work on my screws. Does anyone know why?!

Ivan -

Podéis usar el verbo quitar o retirar.

Vicente Tortajada -

Yep, had to buy a seperate Y000 myself.

Mark Williams -

Passo 18

Remove the bracket.

No es lo mismo “to remove” que remover.

Vicente Tortajada -

Passo 19

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

The second connection from the battery to the daughterboard should also be disconnected even just as an extra precaution.

Keegen Payne -

Passo 20

Use a Y000 driver to remove six 1.3 mm screws securing the logic board cover bracket.

What do you do if one of the screws gets stripped? I can get it out.

Zach -

Solder a paper clip to it

Akeem Scrubb -

Passo 21

Remove the bracket.

Passo 22

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Passo 23

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front sensor assembly cable connector.
Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.
If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

Passo 24

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.

Passo 25

Use a Y000 driver to remove the four 1.2 mm screws securing the lower battery connector cover.

Passo 26

Remove the lower battery connector cover.

Passo 27

Use a spudger to disconnect the lower battery flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket.

Passo 28

Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket.

Passo 29

Remove the three screws securing the Taptic Engine:
One 2.0 mm-long Y000 screw
One 1.6 mm-long Y000 screw
One 4.0 mm-long standoff screw
Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.
In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

Passo 30

Remove the Taptic Engine.

Passo 31

Use a Y000 driver to remove the three 1.3 mm screws securing the Lightning flex cable bracket.

Passo 32

Remove the flex cable bracket.

Passo 33

Pry up to disconnect both of the Lightning flex cable connectors from the Logic board.

Passo 34

Use a Phillips 000 screwdriver to remove the 2.8 mm screw.
Use a Phillips 000 screwdriver to remove the 1.4 mm screw.
Use a standoff screwdriver to remove the 3.8 mm screw.

Passo 35

Use a small spudger to disconnect the loudspeaker connector.

Passo 36

Use a hair dryer or an iOpener to heat the gasket between the speaker and the frame.

Passo 37

Lift the speaker high enough to clear the battery.
Rock the speaker from side to side, then pull it away from the frame from one side.

Passo 38

The speaker has been removed.

Passo 39

Use a Y000 driver to remove the 1.4 mm screw securing the barometric sensor cover.

Passo 40

The barometric sensor incorporates a water-tight gasket, so the cover is held down with adhesive. Use a hair dryer or iOpener to heat the cover to soften the adhesive.

Passo 41

Remove the barometric sensor cover. Lift carefully from the side with the mounting screw and slowly peel it off.

Passo 42

Use a standoff screwdriver to remove the two 2.8 mm screws on the lightning connector.
Use a standoff screwdriver to remove the 2.3 mm screw on the barometric sensor/microphone housing.

Passo 43

Apply heat to the microphone to loosen the adhesive securing it to the housing.

Passo 44

Use fine tip tweezers to pry the microphone loose from the housing.
Fold the microphone and sensor back away from the housing.
The barometric sensor is not glued in; it simply lifts out.

Passo 45

Apply heat to the housing to soften the adhesive securing it to the phone's frame.

Passo 46

Gently pull the housing away from the frame.
Note that the microphone flex cable is folded over at the point indicated by the arrow.
Replacement parts will not come pre-folded, so be sure to match the exact position of the fold on your new assembly.

Passo 47

Use a Y000 driver to remove this 1.0 mm screw.

Passo 48

Use a Y000 driver to remove the two 1.0 mm grounding screws on the side.

Passo 49

Use a Phillips 000 screwdriver to remove the two 3.6 mm screws securing the charging port to the bottom of the phone.

Passo 50

Use a spudger to disconnect the remaining flex cable from the Lightning connector assembly and fold it back out of the way.

Passo 51

One last time, heat the entire flex assembly to soften the adhesive holding the flex cable to the rear case and the charging port to the bottom frame.

Passo 52

Starting at the corner where the ribbon cable leads to the motherboard, insert a spudger and separate the flex cable from the frame.

Passo 53

Use blunt nose tweezers to gasp the Lightning connector and rock it from side to side to loosen it, then remove it from the frame.

Passo 54

The Lightning connector assembly has been removed.
Carefully compare the replacement assembly to the original. Transfer any parts necessary from the old to the new, such as the foam around the connectors. Duplicate the folds for the microphone and the lead to the motherboard on the replacement as well.

iPhone 11 Pro Max Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement

Introdução

Ferramentas

Peças

2 comentários