Substituição do disco rígido do iMac 27" 2017

Escrito Por: Adam O'Camb

Comentários: 68

Substituição do disco rígido do iMac 27" 2017

Dificuldade

Moderado

Passos

Tempo necessário

1 - 2 horas

Introdução

Siga este guia para substituir o disco rígido do seu iMac. A substituição do disco rígido requer a separação a tela e a remoção do alto-falante esquerdo.

Este guia também inclui passos para realizar o upgrade do disco rígido de seu iMac com um SSD. Ele descreve como instalar o sensor de temperatura do SSD de forma que as ventoinhas do Mac operem na velocidade correta.

Antes de começar os trabalhos no seu iMac: Tire o computador da tomada e pressione segurando o botão de liga/desliga por dez segundos para descarregar os condensadores da fonte de alimentação de energia.

Tenha muito cuidado para não tocar nos terminais do condensador ou juntas de solda expostas na traseira da fonte de alimentação.

Ferramentas

Peças

Passo 1

Com a dobradiça podendo se mover livremente, o iMac fica instável, o que torna o trabalho difícil. Os reparos podem ser executados com o iMac deitado, mas ficam mais rápidos e fáceis se você usar um suporte de reparos para iMac.
Se estiver usando o suporte de reparo de papelão da iFixit, siga estas instruções de montagem para instalá-lo.

What’s the point of this? You run the wheel around the outside, and then you lay it down anyway to pull the glass and do the rest. The wedge is not needed.

ebay - 29/01/21

I have a story to tell about this teardown. It all went wonderfully well until after I completed the process and attempted to format my new SSD drive only to discovery that the capacity of the drive was 256GB… not the 2TB I was sure I had ordered. iFixit was very supportive and helpful in sending me a new set of sticky tape strips and and RMA to return the SSD and some of the other parts.

I finally had received my new set of strips and the 2TB SSD…. I figured, piece of cake… I already know how to do this… but I watched the video again and started following the teardown…

…apparently the new sticky tape strips was way more powerful that the original tape and while using the pizza cutter tool and not advancing much, I proceeded to use one of the iFixit credit card style wedges…. I now have 2 pretty severe cracks on the glass of my display, which as clearly explained by @mayer can only be replaced by an entire display… which runs at about $500. Cosmetically it looks horrible, but it works… for now.

Erich Hentschel - 01/03/21

Passo 2

Começando pelo lado esquerdo da tela, próximo ao botão de liga/desliga, introduza a ferramenta de abertura para iMac no vão entre o painel de vidro e a estrutura traseira.
O eixo da ferramenta de abertura para iMac evita que você introduza muito para dentro a roda. Se estiver usando uma ferramenta diferente, não a introduza mais do que 9,5 mm dentro da tela. Você corre o risco de romper os cabos da antena e causar sérios danos se introduzir demais a ferramenta.

Should you run a hair dryer along the edges first?

Al Val -

Passo 3

Use a ferramenta como um cortador de pizza - empurre-a por toda a extensão do vão e ela cortará o ponto central do adesivo de espuma.
Lembre-se de empurrar constantemente o punho atrás da roda cortante. Se você puxar, a roda pode escapar do punho.
Passe a ferramenta por toda a extensão da lateral esquerda da tela.

Passo 4

Continue rolando a ferramenta para cima, virando no canto esquerdo superior.

Passo 5

Corte o adesivo da parte esquerda superior da tela.

Passo 6

Continue na parte superior da tela.
Você precisa passar a ferramenta algumas vezes para trás e para a frente onde já cortou adesivo, para garantir que tenha soltado o máximo possível de adesivo.

Passo 7

Passe a ferramenta pelo canto superior direito da tela.

Passo 8

Role a ferramenta para baixo, por toda a extensão da lateral direita da tela.

Passo 9

Finalize empurrando a ferramenta de abertura para a parte inferior na lateral direita da tela.
A esta altura, você pode passar a ferramenta por toda a tela, voltando no sentido inverso, para garantir que tenha cortado o máximo possível de adesivo.

Passo 10

Ainda que a ferramenta de abertura já tenha feito a parte difícil do trabalho, a tela ainda estará levemente colada na estrutura. Será necessário usar um cartão de plástico para soltar o resto desse adesivo.
Coloque o iMac numa mesa com a tela virada para cima.
Começando pelo canto direito superior do iMac, introduza um cartão de plástico por entre a tela e a moldura.
Tenha cuidado para não introduzi-la mais do que 9,5 mm, caso contrário você danificará componentes internos.

Passo 11

Vire o cartão de plástico cuidadosamente para abrir o espaço entre a tela e a moldura, e corte os adesivos resistentes próximos ao canto.
Se você usar muita força, irá quebrar o vidro. Trabalhe com cuidado e tente formar um vão que não seja maior do que 6 mm.

Passo 12

Pare de cortar antes da câmera iSight neste passo, caso contrário você pode danificá-la.
Passe o cartão na direção do centro da tela para cortar os adesivos resistentes.

Passo 13

Introduza o cartão novamente no canto e deixe-o nessa posição para evitar que o adesivo cole novamente.

Passo 14

Introduza um segundo cartão no vão, por entre a tela e a moldura, no canto esquerdo superior.

Passo 15

Vire gentilmente o cartão, aumentando ligeiramente o espaço entre a tela e a moldura.
Como na outra lateral, mova lentamente para permitir que o adesivo se rompa e tenha cuidado para não tensionar demais o vidro da tela.

Passo 16

Passe o cartão de plástico na direção do centro, parando novamente um pouco antes da câmera iSight.

Passo 17

Introduza o cartão de volta no canto esquerdo superior.

Passo 18

Com os cartões introduzidos próximo aos cantos, como mostra a figura, vire cuidadosamente os cartões para aumentar o vão entre a tela e a estrutura.
Se em algumas partes o adesivo ainda estiver colando e não puder ser separado, pare de fazer movimentos de vai-e-vem e use um dos cartões para cortar o adesivo nesta área.
Comece a erguer a parte superior da tela para fora da moldura.
Erga a tela somente umas poucas polegadas - ela ainda está presa ao iMac pelos cabos de dados e de energia.

Passo 19

Enquanto segura a tela com uma mão, use a outra para desconectar o cabo de energia da tela.
Erga a tela o suficiente para facilitar o acesso às conexões, mas não tanto que os cabos fiquem estendidos e as suas conexões sejam danificadas (umas 8'').

Der Stecker muss seitlich wie die meisten anderen Stecker in diesem Modell komprimiert werden, um ihn aus der Buchse auf dem Logicboard zu ziehen. Die Zugrichtung ist parallel zum Logicboard in Richtung Oberkante des iMac. Ziehen ohne seitliches Zusammendrücken der Backen am Stecker könnte den Stecker oder die Buchse beschädigen.

Ernest Bumblebee - 17/11/20

These instructions are unclear. They imply the cable can just be pulled out but this step had me stuck for a bit. Searching the webs, I discovered that there are little tabs on either side of the connector. I used my prod tool and poked one side and the connector came out a little. I poked the other side the connector came out without a fight.

Peter Akey -

The instruction for this step state this but I was still not expecting two cables. Finally figured out there is a Display Power and a separate Display Data cable.

wsrb -

As others have mentioned later on, it is not necessary to fully remove the screen or disconnect these cables. I managed with just the screen held wedged open with a small cardboard box.

Jamie Bamborough -

If you are replacing the SSD, then yes you do have to disconnect these cables and completely detach the display.

Ray -

Passo 20

Vire para cima o suporte metálico com trava do cabo de dados da tela.
Desconecte o cabo de dados da tela.
Esta conexão é sensível e pode se romper facilmente. Certifique-se de puxar em linha reta o conector do cabo de dados da tela para fora do soquete, em direção à parte superior do iMac.

Passo 21

Erga a tela até ela quase alcançar uma posição vertical.
A esta altura, ainda há uma tira de adesivo na extensão da parte inferior da tela, que segurará a tela à moldura, fazendo as vezes de uma dobradiça. Você pode soltar este adesivo erguendo e baixando a tela por algumas vezes.

After rocking the display back and forth a bit, I found it helpful to use my iMac opening tool to gently slide ever so slightly underneath the bottom of the glass to cut the adhesive. This was with the display lowered back into it its normal position. I just worked about 1 millimetre deep at a time and eventually cut through the ~8” adhesive strip at the bottom centre.

Henry Rose - 21/07/21

It's possible to skip this step and go to step 24, leaving the display attached. You'll want to open the display just enough to replace the drive, with the machine upright and supported so the display doesn't swivel (I fold up a small pillow and wedge it in there). This way you don't have to worry about damaging the display when removing it, or aligning it when replacing it (which can be difficult to do solo as it's big and heavy).

Using a T8 with a short handle is helpful here, and make sure it's well magnetized so you don't drop the screws for the hard drive (just leave the other ones in the speakers).

maccentric - 12/01/24

Passo 22

Tenha muito cuidado para não tocar nos terminais do condensador ou nas juntas de solda expostas na parte traseira da fonte de alimentação (no quadrado vermelho).
Agarre a pequena tira na extremidade de uma das fitas adesivas da tela na borda inferior e puxe o adesivo na direção da parte superior do iMac para removê-lo.
Repita esse passo com a outra faixa adesiva e remova-a.
Se uma das tiras adesivas se romper antes de ser removida, use um cartão plástico para cortar o adesivo restante.

Passo 23

Tenha muito cuidado ao manusear a tela, ela é grande, pesada e feita de vidro. A tela tem bordas frágeis. Evite erguer a tela pelos cantos.
Erga a tela da moldura e remova-a do iMac. Deite a tela virada para baixo numa superfície plana e macia.
Pode ser que seja necessário erguê-la lentamente de um lado, para soltar o adesivo restante.
Depois de cortado o adesivo, ele não pode mais ser usado para vedar a tela. Vá para este guia quando o seu reparo tiver sido completado para repor as tiras de adesivo que seguram a tela no seu invólucro traseiro.

Passo 24

Com uma chave T10, remova os dois parafusos de 10 mm que fixam o alto-falante esquerdo.

Passo 25

Afaste o alto-falante solto para a esquerda - o bastante para expor os parafusos do suporte do disco rígido.

Passo 26

Puxe para cima em linha reta o cabo SATA combinado para desconectá-lo da unidade HD.

Where can I purchase this cable if my iMac only came with the m.2 SSD?

Julien Dal Col - 15/02/21

Passo 27

Com uma chave T8, remova os dois parafusos de 7,3 mm que fixam o suporte esquerdo do disco rígido na estrutura traseira.

they are T9 for 2012.

sean_gizzle - 14/02/21

They are T10 for the 2013 model

Quinten van Kessel -

Passo 28

Agarre ambos, o disco rígido e o suporte esquerdo do disco rígido.
Levante a lateral esquerda, afastando-a da estrutura traseira, e puxe a unidade para a esquerda.
Remova o disco rígido e o suporte esquerdo do disco rígido do iMac.

Passo 29

Remova o suporte esquerdo do disco rígido.

Passo 30

Remova os quatro pinos-parafusos T8 de 8,1 mm do disco rígido e transfira-os para o invólucro da unidade nova.

In my case these were T9 screw posts. Late 2012 iMac. They had traces of Loctite on them.

rsnadd - 31/05/18

Not sure if this is the right place to add this comment, but here goes: I bought a late 2015 iMac 27 which had only a 256Gb blade SSD in it, and wanted to upgrade it with additional storage. I'll not include everything here that I did, however I will mention that I discovered that it had the brackets inside for a 3.5" HDD, but no SATA cable. With a new cable and 2.5" SSD drive in an adapter, I now found that I had no screw posts to secure the SSD adapter in the mounting brackets. I searched everywhere online, but couldn't find any to buy. I procured some (brass) logic board mounting posts with the proper thread gauge to fit the SSD adapter which I then filed to an appropriate round shape that would hold the adapter in the mounding brackets. Problem solved.

By the way: I grabbed one post in my drill to spin them while filing them round. Holding one post in the drill, I could screw a second one into it for filing, lastly placing a finished post into the drill to modify the last post. Worked like a charm!

VikingShips - 29/04/25

Passo 31

Siga os passos restantes se estiver substituindo o seu disco rígido por um kit SSD.
Se o seu invólucro de SSD for como o da primeira imagem, vá em vez disso para este guia.
Alinhe os conectores do SSD com os soquetes do invólucro metálico.
Pressione a unidade contra os soquetes do invólucro, até que o SSD se assente firmemente.
O SSD se conecta com o invólucro somente numa única direção. Se não conseguir alinhar os conectores, vire o SSD e tente novamente.

what if I’m installing a hard drive?

Troy Garcia -

Didn’t bother with the SSD caddy. Some 3M sticky pads did the trick!

James Clive -

Been using them for years...works great.

Michael Maxson -

Two thoughts on SSD replacement/upgrade:

1) It would help if some references were made to help us determine what we need in terms form factors. I’ve never used an SSD and see a 2.5” one that would work, but I don’t know if 2.5” SSDs are different (in form factor) from 2.5” HDs. A lot of us are still learning about SSDs and isn’t that what this site is about? (Learning new things about hardware and using hardware?)

2) I’m not clear if I definitely need a new temperature sensor if I put in an SSD or if

Hal Vaughan -

You do not need the temperature sensor, just replace the old HD for a new SATA HD or better Sata SSD. This sensor was only needed in former models, I think the iMac 2011. I replaced already some drives of the 27" iMac 2017 and never needed the extra sensor. E.g. Apple used a normal not branded 1 TB Seagate SATA Desktop HD ST1000DM003.

Frank N -

Can I buy the kit without the SSD. I'm thinking of replacing my 3TB hard drive with a 4TB SSD.

Also, would you happen to know what the maximum hard drive dimension that can fit inside of this iMac? I may try a 14TB hard drive instead.

Larry - 14/04/22

A 14Tb HDD does not represent any problem. But I will care about rising temperature. Must attach a heat sensor. If rise to high, it will suddenly shutdown to protect it.

Neos Marketing -

Is it possible to have some reference of compatible SSD please?
I would like to replace the HDD from my Fusion drive, Imac 5K late 2014, by a SSD.
But i don't know which model should i take, and there is no recommandation on this website :(

thanks in advance

Nathan André -

Is it possible to use an M.2 NVMe SSD with an adapter (mount) for a 2.5" SATA SSD instead of a SATA SSD?

Kirill Legion -

Great tuning set and tutorial.
With the new SSD my late 2012 iMac feels like 10 years younger now! :-)

The only things to mention:

- before starting read the whole tutorial very carefully!

- prepare your working place

- take enough time for each step!!

Chris Wagner -

Has anyone used a Samsung 870 EVO SATA 2.5”?

Mark -

yes, i replaced the fusion drive with the samsung 870 evo. works great!

foto fuzzi -

Passo 32

Com uma chave Phillips, instale os quatro parafusos prateados (dois de cada lado) ao longo das bordas do SSD para fixá-lo no invólucro.

Passo 33

Conecte o cabo combinado habilitado a sensores à porta do invólucro.
O cabo somente pode ser conectado em uma única orientação. Se não conseguir conectar o cabo, gire-o 180º e tente novamente.

Is the thermal sensor needed? I fitted a replacement SSD and it’s all back together and the iMac’s fans are fine. They don’t go into full max speed mode.

James Clive -

If you have a problem with the fans, you can always use Macs Fan Control (free) to set the speed. The sensor is not needed.

maccentric -

Hi, thanks for good information. Do we need intermediate SSD cables (red, black and yellow)? iMac has SATA original cable.

O S -

I used always the "old" SATA original cable. You do not need the temperature sensor, just replace the old HD for a new SATA HD or better SATA SSD. This sensor was only needed in former models, I think the iMac 2011. I replaced already some drives of the 27" iMac 2017 and never needed the extra sensor. E.g. Apple used a normal not Apple branded 1 TB Seagate SATA Desktop HD ST1000DM003.

It is always a good idea to fix the TFT Screen with tape and test the HD replacement.

Frank N -

Passo 34

Remova a película branca da traseira da pequena placa de sensor de temperatura para expor o adesivo.
Cole a placa do sensor de temperatura numa superfície metálica exposta do SSD, próximo ao conector SATA.
Dobre o excesso dos fios do sensor de temperatura, de forma que eles não atrapalhem enquanto você instala o invólucro.

Great pics ! Is that “temp sensor board” is already on my HDD IMAC ?? Or must I buy one ?

kenclark200 - 23/04/21

Don’t bother with the thermal sensor. I didn’t fit one and the iMac is working fine and no fans are kicking in.

James Clive -

Instructions say to attach sensor to the SSD, but all pictures show it being attached to the SSD carrier. This may not represent accurate SSD temp as much of the carrier dissipates the heat absorbed from the SSD

chris byrne -

Confirmed, no need for the extra temp sensor on Mid-2015 iMac. (EMC 2806, Mid-2015 27" iMac). Just changed the old 1TB HDD to SSD, no extra fan RPM after power on.

Laszlo Nyirfa -

The adhesive on the sensor is very weak. My sensor fell off after a couple of days. Is there a safe glue to use to adhere it to the SSD? Super glue?

estyle18 -

FWIW I bought a 4TB Western Digital Blue SSD. The entire case of the SSD is plastic- there is no metal. Hoping the temp sensor adheres to it okay.

Kupe -

de donde salio el sensor de temperatura? lo trae el disco nuevo?

Pedro -

Passo 35

Com uma chave T8, instale os pinos de montagem do disco rígido velho nas laterais do invólucro.

Passo 36

Fixe os suportes de montagem removidos do disco rígido velho no invólucro.

i don't have a combo cable.i also didn't have asata drive. just a blade ssd. i don't see wwhere i could add a cable

Larry Paterson -

Passo 37

Conecte o cabo combinado do iMac ao novo cabo combinado habilitado para temperatura.

Passo 38

As imagens usadas neste passo são de um iMac de 2017. Os seus cabos podem ser diferentes, mas o procedimento é o mesmo.
Empurre o invólucro do SSD no espaço ocupado anteriormente pelo disco rígido.
Disponha os cabos de tal forma que eles não interfiram nenhum outro componente.
Tente manter os cabos afastados de dobras acentuadas e passe-os de tal forma que eles não sejam apertados.

The SATA cable on my Late 2012 was not long enough to comfortably attach to the end of the temperature sensor array after it was plugged into the new SSD. I had to fold the array and slide it under the SSD and housing. There was much resistance to the folding so I took it slowly to let the wires adjust gradually to the fold so they would not break.

Bob Enders -

Unfortunately, the adapter that comes with it isn't long enough to avoid pushing against the screen in the front. One week after upgrading to SSD my screen fell off shattering and breaking the power connector on the systems board. A new screen is ordered but I'm hoping the power connector isn't damaged beyond repair. I'm going to try to adhere the HD adapter to the back inside of the case with 3m adhesive to avoid pressure against the screen.

Erik Johnson -

As a newbie, the only other upgrade I have done is to replace my iPhone 7 battery. I had trouble on reassembly.

This is a great upgrade guide, but it would be important to me to see the reassembly instructions including the cautions.

For example, I had issues with reattaching the plugs in the phone. I could see having an issue with them here, as well as repositioning the display back into the cabinet.

I do PCB board repair work and repair pinball machines. But I won’t try this.

LexVAPin -

how do i glue on the new screen? which glue is used?

Marc Seeh -

Try 3m double sided tape from Amazon, it available in 3mm width which is ideal for iMac screen. It has a very thin foam and is much better quality than the cheap Chinese kits available on Amazon. You will have to trim it to size with a sharp craft blade as you fit. Don’t risk your screen falling off from using cheap tape in the so called fitting kits!

Tony Street -

In my Late 2012 27" iMac I Scotch-taped the SATA connector to the case to stop it from pushing against the screen after reassembly.

[deleted] -

Only 39 steps!

Is it possible to clone the internal disk and have the imac boot off the external SSD?

D Leinweber -

Yes

https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-2....

D Leinweber -

The extension cable is too long. I folded it over carefully & stuck it down to the case using a double sided sticky pad. Photo here

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0qG...

Bill4321 -

hi is it possible to use another caddy caddy 3,5" ---> 2,5" for the upgrade? I think the logic board of the one that comes in the kit is faulty.

Thanks

Radament -

There is no need for a temperature sensor on a Late-2013 and later.

Phil Taylor -

I got more length of the SATA cable to work with by removing the fan and routing the cable differently under there (right through the middle instead of around the edges). However, then the adapter cable turned out to be too long, the whole thing would have gotten in the way of the display. Since I read that the Mid 2017 iMac doesn't really need the sensor, I'll be trying it without. Otherwise, my solution would have been to bend the adapter under the cage and tape it in place.

l l etc -

Could one just leave the fusion hdd in there, disconnect the cable, and plug into a sata sdd and have it sit in the space above the disconnected fusion hdd?

Gold Coast Spanner Crab -

With the Fusion Drive 3T and 128 SSD in my 2017 27” iMac … can they be removed separately ? The HD is not mountable. Don’t know if the SSD can be salvaged.

polonius007 -

Conclusão

Compare a sua nova peça de reposição com a peça original - pode ser que você precise transferir componentes remanescentes ou remover suportes adesivos da nova peça antes de instalá-la.

Para a remontagem do seu dispositivo, siga essas instruções na ordem inversa.

Leve o seu lixo eletrônico para um ponto de recolha ou uma recicladora certificada.

O reparo não estão indo conforme o planejado? Confira a nossa comunidade do fórum Respostas para obter ajuda na solução de problemas.

Autor(a)

Adam O'Camb

Membro desde: 11/04/15

220314 Reputação

15 comentários

What’s the difference with this guide? Substituição do disco rígido do iMac Intel 27" com tela Retina 5K

Mr 3s - 30/11/20

Hello, I have an iMac (Retina 5K, 27-inch, 2017) and I would like to change my hard disk, which is a 3.5GHz 1TB Fusion Unit, for an SSD disk, would you recommend doing it? And if so, what reference or brand do you recommend to do it?

Julio Cesar Ortiz Soto - 13/02/21

I can confirm the OWC thermal sensor cable is not needed for HDD to SSD upgrade. I successfully upgraded my 2017 5k iMac fusion drive’s HDD to WD blue 2TB SATA3 ssd without it and the fans speeds don’t ramp up at all. Anyhow thanks for your guides Ifixit on how to DIY. I successfully upgraded my 128gb NVME to a 1TB NVME and to a SATA3 ssd for storage. Transfer speeds are insane and my boot up time now only takes 12 seconds compared to 32 seconds previously. I also upgraded my cpu from the i5-7600k to the i7-7700k. My 2017 5k iMac is blazing fast now. Thanks again ifixit.

Andy C - 28/02/21

Successfully upgraded to a 2TB SSD from the 2TB Fusion drive. As soon as I turned on Bootcamp, the Fusion drive went nuts for a few weeks I think because it prioritized the Windows side onto the SSD and the Mac side onto the spinning drive. It eventually corrected itself but it was a helluva time. And it was time for a fresh hard drive anyway. $500 is much cheaper than a new iMac. Highly recommend this one. This was way easier than my upgrades to the 2009 and to a Mac Mini.

Michael Higdon -

Excellent instructions. The process is straightforward - the only tricky bit is reinstalling the screen accurately. There seems to be some conflicting views on the internet about the best way to do it and which adhesive strips to use - the 2012-2015 strips now seem to be supplied for later models, and they worked fine on my 2017 iMac.

My advice is just to take take it all very steadily and always read one stage ahead before you start on your next stage just to know where you are going next. I installed a 2TB Crucial SSD and the results are very good.

Roland Denning -

i not understand how the temperature sensor work. its connected with three wires on power connector (two negative one positive 5v) i think this powering the sensor. but i not understand how its comunicate with the mainboard the temperature releved.

calecad -

ive been looking for info on the blade drive as wiping a newly installed SSD and installing OS works, but what is best practice for this? what do we use the blade for after, is it just wiped and left redundant? - as for the temp control, just install Macs Fan Control.

Pete Gypps -

i did this but then my imac showed a folder with a question mark on it

Nehemiah Whipple -

Great guide! Amazing work here.

Gabe Price -

Noch nie zuvor hatte ich so eine professionelle Anleitung gelesen.

EINFACH SUPER

Horst Söllner -

If adding a 2nd ssd (I am just learning that this ssd upgrade kit won’t actually replace my preinstalled ssd), how do I plug in the new ssd? There’s no sata cabled exposed.

Nino Mancuso -

Regarding some previous comments, this guide is for replacing a drive if the original has died or is to be upgraded. You will have to reinstall MacOS or transfer your data to the new drive. This won't help you install a second additional drive, and a brand new drive will not work on its own.

Greg Phillips -

Replacing the failed HD with an SSD in my iMac required deleting the fusion container and reformatting the hard drive and M2 SSD as separate apfs volumes. This can be done with diskutil in a command line window. I installed the SSD in the kit in the external USB drive enclosure and restored me time machine backup to it. I booted from the SSD and diskutil to delete the afps container. You have to use diskutil apfs list to get the drive disk ID to make sure you are deleted the container from the right physical disk.

diskutil apfs deleteContainer disk2 apfs FDisk 0

This will destroy the data on disk2 and leave you with two empty disks named 'FDisk' and 'FDisk 2'. The FDisk 2 is the fusion SSD that is 120 GB in my case.

mcarleton -

Do anybody know if the PCI drive on the iMac 27 2017 is prone to fail. AND if I install a SSD Sata drive, is it possible to have the iMac run without it.

TTANH -

Thanks for the excellent guide. After changing the HD with a new SSD you may need this Apple support article to reset the fusion drive an reinstall the OS: https://support.apple.com/en-us/102226

ediathome -