Substituição do conjunto da tela do iPhone X

Passo 1

Antes de começar, descarregue a bateria do iPhone abaixo de 25%. Uma bateria de íons de lítio carregada pode pegar fogo e/ou explodir, se perfurada acidentalmente.
Desligue o iPhone antes de iniciar a desmontagem.
Remova os dois parafusos pentalobe de 6,9 mm na borda inferior do iPhone.
Se os parafusos estiverem espanados ou danificados, substitua os parafusos.
Abrir a tela do iPhone comprometerá as vedações à prova d'água. Tenha à mão vedações de reposição se passar por essa etapa ou evite a exposição a líquidos se você remontar o iPhone sem substituir as vedações.

There are 6.81mm long screws!

Daniel - 25/06/20

One of the pentalobe screws is stripped :( - suggestions for how to get it out?

cgtyoder - 09/07/20

same situation here

kaunomarcius - 11/07/20

Same issue for me too, how do I get the stripped screw out?

patronics - 11/08/20

Update: I was able to get the “stripped” screw out using another Pentalobe-2 screwdriver bit from another company. It seems it wasn’t the screw, but the screw driver that was actually stripped. Hence why the other screwdriver kit I got came with 3 of this bit, I suppose.

patronics - 12/08/20

I ended up going to a jewelry store, and they drilled down into the screw, with of course an incredibly tiny bit. That allowed me to insert the P2 driver, and I was able to unscrew it at that point. Good luck!

cgtyoder - 24/08/20

Same issue with the stripping. The tip of the iFixit P2 head in my $70 kit just ground off on the first screw and that was that. Not much you can do.

Kyle Harris - 29/12/20

yes correct the same happened to me, the screws were perfect shaped never been open and as soon as i used the P2 it stripped the screws, seems like the P2 is slightly smaller but Dremel kit with a very small drill bits and precise knife tool is the way to go.

Dulce Vidal - 14/04/21

This step in automatically followed through, without any thought. Why remove these screws? Can anybody explain? The Screen is detachable all the same, with them well screwed in…

Uri -

These screws attach to a plate that’s part of the screen half of the phone. If you succeed in detaching the screen without removing those, it would seem reasonable that you will have damaged that plate or its ability to keep the two halves together.

Dan Long -

@Dan Long is right

Uri -

Clean out the pentalobe screw heads first so the tool goes all the way in. A small sewing needle works well to loosen any build up and then press some putty/chewing gum into the screw head and pull away quickly for a final clean out.

William Olstad -

The this kit should include screws because you’re going to strip them. Can’t even get past step one. Did anybody figure this out

justin -

Never opened my phone ever, when I went to look at the first step.. I noticed one of my screws was stripped. I thought it was impossible, but I removed the non stripped one, then once I got to the stripped one.. I learned my assumptions were correct. I bought this one straight from the apple site years ago ahaha Any tips to remove the stripped screw?

Clarence Williams -

William Olstad's tip about cleaning the screws with a needle and a bit of poster putty worked well for me. There was a lot of crud in there! The opening is shallow, so it's easy to see how the screwdriver wouldn't catch with even a bit of grit in the way, No problem getting the pentalobe screws out with the ifixit screwdriver.

punkinann -

If all else fails, very carefully cut a slot across the head of the screw with a Dremel tool using a diamond bit that dentist will gladly give you - I ask my dentist for used bits; and chuck them in a drill bit chuck designed for Dremel. The slot allows you to use a tiny, straight blade screwdriver. You can reuse the screw or replace it with a new pentalobe screw.

Dan Smith -

Passo 2

Se o seu iPhone tiver uma tela rachada, mantenha as rachaduras sob controle e evite danos corporais durante o reparo colocando fita adesiva sobre o vidro.
Coloque tiras sobrepostas de fita adesiva transparente sobre a tela do iPhone até que toda a superfície fique coberta.
Use óculos de segurança para proteger seus olhos de qualquer vidro que possa ser liberado durante o reparo.
Se não conseguir fazer com que a ventosa grude nas próximas etapas, dobre um pedaço de fita adesiva resistente (como fita adesiva vedante) na forma de uma pega e levante a tela com ela.
Se tudo mais falhar, você pode colar a ventosa na tela com supercola.

Passo 3

As próximas três etapas demonstram o Anti-Clamp, uma ferramenta que projetamos para facilitar o procedimento de abertura. Se não estiver usando o Anti-Clamp, pule três etapas para um método alternativo.
Para obter instruções completas sobre como usar o Anti-Clamp, consulte este guia.
Puxe a pega azul para trás para destravar os braços do Anti-Clamp.
Deslize os braços pela borda esquerda ou direita do iPhone.
Posicione as ventosas próximo à borda inferior do iPhone - uma pela frente e a outra pela traseira.
Aperte as ventosas uma contra a outra para aplicar sucção na área desejada.
Se você achar que a superfície do iPhone é muito escorregadia para o Anti-Clamp se prender, você pode usar fita para deixar a superfície mais aderente.

Passo 4

Puxe a pega azul para a frente para travar os braços.
Gire a pega 360 graus no sentido horário ou até que as ventosas comecem a se esticar.
Certifique-se de que as ventosas permaneçam alinhadas uma com a outra. Se elas começarem a ficar desalinhadas, solte um pouco as ventosas e realinhe os braços.

Passo 5

Aqueça uma bolsa térmica iOpener e passe-a pelos braços do Anti-Clamp.
Você também pode usar um secador de cabelo, uma pistola de ar quente ou uma chapa quente - mas calor extremo pode danificar o visor e/ou a bateria interna, portanto, proceda com cuidado.
Dobre a bolsa térmica iOpener de modo que ela fique sobre a borda inferior do iPhone.
Aguarde um minuto para que o adesivo tenha a chance de se soltar e apresentar uma vão para a abertura.
Insira uma palheta de abertura sob a tela e o painel de plástico, mas não abaixo da própria tela.
Se o Anti-Clamp não formar espaço suficiente, aplique mais calor na área e gire a pega um quarto de volta.
Não gire a pega mais do que um quarto de volta de cada vez e espere um minuto entre cada volta. Deixe que o Anti-Clamp e o tempo façam o trabalho por você.
Pule as próximas três etapas.

DO NOT separate the glass from the plastic bumper or rim around it. These instructions don't clarify that the pick has to be inserted between the plastic rim and the metal body. It is likely that the glass will lift slightly off the plastic surround before the plastic will lift out of the metal body. I had success sliding a card or pick back and forth along the bottom edge of the plastic rim while pulling on the suction cup. Eventually there was a space large enough for the pick to go under the plastic rim.

Anessa -

Thanks for pointing this out! I'll revise this step to clarify this point.

Arthur Shi -

Passo 6

O aquecimento da borda inferior do iPhone ajudará a amolecer o adesivo que prende a tela, facilitando a abertura.
Use um secador de cabelo, uma pistola de ar quente ou prepare uma bolsa térmica iOpener e aplique-o(a) na borda inferior do iPhone por cerca de um minuto para amolecer o adesivo que se encontra por baixo.

General tip regarding heating necessary to remove adhesive:

consider using a heated tip of a small screwdriver or metal spudger (not the one made of plastic, provided in kit), rather than to heat the device itself.

Uri - 17/12/19

You then need to be careful about the temp of the tool which if hot enough can melt plastic components or harm them. Keeping the heat source (heat gun) far enough away from the object that you’ll eventually melt the glue but would be much harder to melt components. I try to keep 4” or 5” gap between the source & object

Sandman619 - 07/01/20

Thanks for the info. Could a air convector do the job

dominique.br -

When opening a device that has previously been worked on, and on which the adhesive might not have been replaced, be extremely carful when opening the phone. It will open much more easily than expected. If you’re not careful you might rip a cable.

jonpol -

Is this tool required or can I just use the Anti-Clamp by itself.

Mikail -

If you have a 3d printer, heat the bed to 80c and put the phone screen side down on it for 30 secs

philip.joseph123 - 28/04/23

thaks for this advise, I was looking for this as I dont have a heat gun haha, nice hack

Andres Chaparro -

Passo 7

Se estiver usando uma ventosa de sucção única, aplique-a na borda inferior do telefone, evitando a parte curva do vidro.

If you were using some form of screen protector, it may come off first as soon as you pull on the suction cup. Do not be alarmed. That is normal behavior.

Alain-Daniel Wa-Baguma - 21/06/20

3m VSB double stick tape will stick to the screen when the suction cups fail (see my comment on step 1)

Tawan Khamapirad - 15/12/20

Passo 8

Puxe a ventosa para cima com pressão firme e constante para criar um pequeno vão entre a tela e a estrutura.
Insira uma palheta de abertura no espaço sob a moldura de plástico da tela, mas não debaixo da própria tela.
O adesivo à prova d'água que mantém a tela no lugar é muito forte; a formação dessa abertura inicial requer uma quantidade significativa de força. Se estiver com dificuldade para abrir um vão, aplique mais calor e balance a tela para cima e para baixo para amolecer o adesivo, até se formar um vão de tamanho suficiente para inserir a ferramenta.

In addition to safety goggles, I would recommend you also wear good gloves to avoid getting cut with the glass as you try to pry it open.

Alain-Daniel Wa-Baguma - 21/06/20

The top about applying more heat and gently rocking the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive did the trick for me. Thank you!

Monil Shah -

There needs to be more clarity on where to shove the opening pick into. There is actually two openings that the pry tool can be forced into: one below the black plastic bezel, and one above the black plastic bezel. When I heated my screen with a warming pad and pulled up the suction cup, it actually pried apart above the black plastic bezel which removed the touch screen from the display panel. With this being the first newer iPhone I'd opened since the 3GS, I didn't realize that I was opening the wrong opening as the directions only mentioned one opening and did not warn of this. I was pretty disappointed in the lack of mentioning this, as I was taking my time and following it to the tee. As a result, it destroyed my original iPhone screen.

Caleb Davison -

DO NOT separate the glass from the plastic bumper or rim around it. As someone else noted, these instructions don't clarify that the pick has to be inserted between the plastic rim and the metal body of the phone. When pulling upwards with the suction cup, it is likely that the glass will lift slightly off the plastic surround before the plastic will lift out of the metal body. I had success sliding a card or pick back and forth along the bottom edge of the plastic rim while pulling on the suction cup. Eventually there was a space large enough for the pick to go under the plastic rim.

Anessa -

Thank you for pointing this out! I've updated the step to reflect this.

Arthur Shi -

The suction cup doesn't work at all... The minimum force I apply to lift it up, it comes off completely. This is very frustrating!!!

Mario Silva -

Passo 9

Deslize a palheta de abertura pelo canto inferior esquerdo e pela borda esquerda do iPhone, cortando o adesivo que mantém a tela no lugar.
Não insira a palheta mais do que 3 mm, pois isso pode danificar os componentes internos.

Passo 10

Há cabos sensíveis ao longo da borda direita do iPhone. Não insira a palheta aqui, pois isso pode danificar os cabos.

Wouldn’t it be better to put this part BEFORE the step where you have to pry open the phone?

Jan D. Höllwarth -

Mercie mais trop trop de détails

PACOME SERI -

Qui ne serve à rien

PACOME SERI -

Passo 11

Insira novamente a palheta na borda inferior do iPhone e deslize-a para cima no lado direito para continuar separando o adesivo.
Não insira a palheta mais do que 3 mm, pois isso pode danificar os cabos da tela.

If you have flat feeler gauges (for adjusting engine valve tappet clearance, ignition points … old school) the .003” thick gauge goes right in. Work your way up in thickness until you can get the pic or supplied pry tool in. Don’t insert metal feeler gauge in too far, just enough to hold crack open. I didn’t need to use the suction cup. I used a hot/cold gel pack heated in microwave to heat edges to soften glue a bit. Made sure it wasn’t so hot I couldn’t stand it on my skin.

William Olstad - 16/01/22

Passo 12

A borda superior da tela está fixada com cola e clipes.
Deslize a palheta de abertura pelo canto superior da tela e, ao mesmo tempo, puxe ou movimente a tela com cuidado para baixo na direção do conector Lightning.
Os clipes romperão se você usar muita força. Trabalhe com cuidado e seja paciente.
Não insira a palheta mais do que 3 mm, pois isso pode danificar o conjunto de sensores do painel frontal.
Deslize a palheta para o canto oposto e corte todo o adesivo restante que esteja prendendo a tela.

These are the best instructions I’ve ever read for anything.! Thank you!

Peter Andrew - 23/05/18

Passo 13

Puxe a pequena lingueta da ventosa para removê-la do painel frontal.

Passo 14

Abra o iPhone virando a tela para cima a partir do lado esquerdo, como se fosse a contracapa de um livro.
Não tente separar totalmente a tela ainda, pois vários cabos planos frágeis ainda a conectam à placa lógica do iPhone.
Conforme mostra a foto, verifique se a moldura se solta com a tela e não fica presa no dispositivo.
Encoste a tela em algo para mantê-la apoiada enquanto estiver trabalhando no telefone.
Durante a remontagem, coloque a tela em posição, alinhe os clipes ao longo da borda superior e pressione cuidadosamente a borda superior antes de encaixar o restante da tela. Se ela não se encaixar facilmente e você não ouvir um click, verifique a condição dos clipes ao redor da tela e certifique-se que eles não estejam tortos.

My phone came apart in a different way and looks not right the little box at the top of the display as actually bolted to the top of the frame body I think something went really wrong when I opened it.

Mike Kostersitz - 08/06/20

It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way — only as far as shown in the photo. Otherwise it will strain the thin cable that connects the sensor module and then no more FaceID for you (or, as it turns out me). This could have been made more explicit in the instructions.

Richard Tucker - 28/11/20

It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way … the small stainless steel tabs that hold the screen around the metal frame, that are on the bend place (right side of the phone)… are tend to bend, you can straighten them back to 90 deg. but the plastic base that they are on? very fragile- watch out not to break the plastic bezel … it may come apart of the glass.

dabur872 - 27/04/21

Advice for re-assembly: Before closing up the phone with the seal, check if phone is powering up again and speaker, mic and sensors are still working. If done this check even before installing the board connector bracket in Step 13.

Alexander Nowak -

Passo 15

Remova os cinco parafusos Y000 que prendem o suporte do conector da placa lógica, com os seguintes comprimentos:
Três parafusos de 1,1 mm
Um parafuso de 3,1 mm
Um parafuso de 3,7 mm
Durante o reparo, rastreie cada um dos parafusos e certifique-se de que eles voltem exatamente para o local de onde vieram, para evitar danos ao iPhone.

One thing I found helpful for replacing the screws was to use only the 000screwdriver tip, without the handle. This way, the tip isn’t magnetized and the screw doesn’t tend to ‘roll’ off the screwdriver tip (the screw has almost no mass, so the head (largest surface) is pulled around to the side of the screwdriver tip when magnetized).

Rich May 23, 2020

ungodly - 23/05/20

My 3.1mm screw had a stripped head, could not remove it. (Factory defect, this iPhone was never opened)

So I had to give up removing the display assembly, and jumped directly to battery replacement, Step 20.

That was tricky as I had to keep the display at 90º with a risk of breaking display connectors, but hopefully the replacement went well.

I would not recommend to do this but to follow the guide, but, in case someone encounters a similar issue, that could help!

vingu - 15/01/21

My 1.1mm screw had a stripped head. Used a 3mm steel drill to cut the head off (just 1 mm deep haha) so i could remove the bracket.

Renout - 07/03/21

Be careful on reassembly. Keep the screen supported and not moving. I had difficulty getting the screws in and ended up ruining the screen connectivity at the back of the screen where the ribbon cables go in near the center. I was trying to hand hold the screen and it ended up moving around too much.

SETH GREEN -

To keep track of the screws, I copy the photos showing their places, then arrange these photos on document in Pages, print it. Next I apply two sided sticky tape (the roll-on type). So all screws have their corresponding places …

Max Glanzmann -

不要将螺丝拧得太紧，因为这样会损伤主板导致各种奇奇怪怪的问题，比如屏幕不显示（显示黑色）但是触摸可以用等等，务必按照螺丝原来的顺序安装回去，我的iPhoneX就因为没有正确安装导致主板损坏，而iPhoneX是双层主板，这无疑增加了它的维修成本与费用

bingshan888888 -

Passo 16

Remova o suporte.
O suporte pode estar ligeiramente colado no lugar. Levante-o com cuidado, mas com firmeza, para separá-lo.
Durante a remontagem, este é um bom momento para ligar o iPhone e testar todas as funções antes de vedar a tela em sua posição. Certifique-se de desligar o iPhone completamente antes de continuar o trabalho.

I tested it, then proceeded to close up the device without the bracket. Do I need to reopen and install? All connections are good?

monastra7 - 12/08/20

The bracket helps those many connectors underneath maintain good contact. Probably in the short term nothing bad will happen, but I’d hang onto the bracket and reinstall it when convenient.

Jeff Suovanen - 15/08/20

Agree with Jeff

cgtyoder - 19/09/20

I tested all imaginable functionality on the new OLED screen. Taptics are fine. Then, I noticed that the battery wasn't charging. Any ideas as to what could have gone wrong?

Monica -

for me, the replacement battery was completely dead, small panic when the power-on button was pressed, but quickly realised that this was the situation, and now watching the phone take a power cycle.

James Stanbridge -

Before clicking the screen assembly back, I tried to test the iPhone by pushing the start button, but nothing happened. After taking off the bracket, reseating the plugs I tried again - nothing happened! Then I plugged in the charging cable connected with the iMac, and it started immediately. So if the phone does not start using the startup button, it might just be a glitch when reconnecting the battery.

Max Glanzmann -

Passo 17

Com a ponta pontiaguda de uma espátula ou uma unha limpa, erga o conector da bateria de seu soquete na placa lógica.
Tente não danificar a vedação de silicone preta que envolve essa e outras conexões da placa. Essas vedações oferecem proteção extra contra a entrada de água e poeira.
Vire o conector ligeiramente para fora da placa lógica para evitar que ele entre acidentalmente em contato com o soquete e alimente o telefone com energia elétrica durante o reparo.

cosa può succedere se non si disconnette la scheda logica'?

luca.valli - 12/10/20

note: be careful not to crush or puncture your battery at this step!! I gave mine a minor dent, which I hope wont be a problem.. but something to keep in mind for fxlks in the future!

Noal Balint - 19/10/20

Thanks, already did it)

Stephen Hedrick -

Passo 18

Com a ponta pontiaguda de uma espátula ou a unha, desconecte o conector do conjunto de sensores do painel frontal.

Passo 19

Com a ponta pontiaguda de uma espátula ou a unha, desconecte o conector do cabo do painel OLED.
Para reconectar conectores press-fit como este, alinhe e pressione cuidadosamente um lado até que ele se encaixe e, em seguida, repita no outro lado. Não pressione no centro. Se o conector estiver desalinhado, os pinos podem entortar, causando danos permanentes.

Snap ‘em in like little Legos.

Ray Johnson - 20/11/20

Maybe the manual should flip step 17 and 18 (as the digitizer cable from 18, is in the way of the OLED cable of step 17) ?

Renout - 07/03/21

Passo 20

Com a ponta pontiaguda de uma espátula, retire o conector do cabo do digitalizador de seu soquete.
A localização rebaixada desse conector dificulta a reconexão. Não tenha pressa e alinhe-o com cuidado e, em seguida, pressione-o gentilmente no lugar com a ponta do dedo - primeiro de um lado, depois do outro. Você deverá sentir o clique de ele se encaixando.
Se alguma parte da tela não responder ao toque após o reparo, desconecte a bateria e instale de novo esse conector, certificando-se de que ele se encaixe totalmente e de que não haja poeira nem nenhuma outra obstrução no soquete.

This was probably the hardest part other than trying to get the screen off with the crappy suction cups. I re-installed the bracket only the find out that the touch screen would not respond to touch. Had to remove the five screws, remove the bracket and reseat the recessed screen connector. Reseating the bracket took another 10+ minutes. I carefully used the angled forceps to grab the cable and align the connector being careful not to damage the cable.

Once you have the connector seated, I would reconnect the battery, power on the phone, and check the touch screen response before re-installing the bracket (step 13).

Tawan Khamapirad - 15/12/20

Yeah, this was probably the trickiest part of the reassembly. The power connector cable kept getting in the way so I moved it carefully but fully out of the way. Then it was a matter of fiddling around with it a bit and being careful not to force it on.

Jeffrey Hoy - 23/03/21

I was positive that I had messed something up, I had powered up the phone to test three different times and everything seemed find except there was no touch at all. On my fourth attempt, I carefully examined everything for dust and debris (blowing gently), and I did notice that a corner of the connector (more like part of the ribbon) was bent slightly, and I straightened it. I don't know if it was the ribbon or some tiny debris, but after reseating a fourth time, it worked.

Pol Llovet -

Very important part of the tutorial. Be careful and patience! In my case the screen and camera didn't respond after assemble, so I tried again to reconnect the connector like tutorial said and it worked well. Now my iPhone feel like a new one 💪🏼

Efrain Maestre -

Passo 21

O cabo conector flex do conjunto de sensores do painel frontal está ligeiramente colado.
Levante o cabo com cuidado até que o adesivo se separe.

Do this sensor affect face id?

bonglkv - 14/12/19

It is part of the face id part so yes. This is the ear piece too so if the ribbon tears there is a chance the ear piece will stop working as well.

Stephen Patterson - 13/01/20

Be super careful handling this ribbon particularly. I did a battery install and, when I was done, I had a phone with a new battery and no Face ID. That’s a $300 Apple repair, and no 3rd party shop will touch it. I believe the ribbon lays vertically (i.e., perpendicular to the “floor” of the phone, against the side edge of the battery. During the re-install, I must have forced the ribbon into position after seating the connector, causing fatal flexing of the ribbon. (Don’t know this for sure, but I see another comment saying that this cable is part of Face ID.) Anyway, bottom line: BE CAREFUL REMOVING AND REINSTALLING THIS RIBBON!

Jonathan Pines - 31/05/20

My flex cable was more than lightly adhered in place. I needed to use a guitar pic or similar to help encourage adhesive to separate. I wouldn’t pull too hard like shown in pictures unless you had just the right grip on the ribbon cable so as to avoid damaging flex cable. See note above (5/31/20)

William Olstad - 16/01/22

Bizarre — it turns out my whole front panel sensor assembly came entire off of the front screen and is stuck to the logic board.

Karl Jarvis -

I also found the glue quite recluctant to release so I applied a second or two of heat using the wife's hair dryer which softened it and the cable lifted much easier then. Be careful not to apply too much heat though which could then impact other internal components.

LosBenitos -

Cho ít cồn 90° vào để mềm keo dễ tháo

huuhaukimngan -

my iphone x doesn't have a front panel sensor? in fact, it looks completely different than the picture???

Kenneth McLeod - 14/04/23

@kennethmcleod, most likely you've separated the screen frame from the screen itself. We see this most commonly when people neglect to remove the pentalobe screws next to the charging port. Usually the cure is to take out those screws, then repeat the screen removal process on the frame that's still attached to the phone.

Jerry Wheeler -

You don't need to disconnect the front sensor to change the screen. Just leave it connected and remove from the screen side.

Anthony Boshell -

I have damaged the front panel sensor assembly flex cable. Does it carry multiple channels of info or is it just one solid piece that can be soldered back together? If not, will the phone still work except Face ID?

Bodger Rabbit -

Passo 22

Remova o conjunto do visor.
Durante a remontagem, faça uma pausa aqui se desejar repor o adesivo à prova d'água nas bordas da tela.

I tried this and broke the cable can it still repair

Alexis Rodriguez - 13/03/21

At this point I would have found it easier to remove the glue from the edges than later on when I was reassembling it. I bought the kit that had the replacement glue in it.

Grant -

Excellent guide! Would love to have a link to moving the sensor assembly from the old display to the new here.

Nicole -

CAUTION:

Removing the Taptic Engine or Speaker in next step is optional and the guide continues as this was per se needed.

Unnecessary work and also If you remove the speaker you lose the adhesive gasket and this is not included in the scope of delivery of the "Battery replacement" offering.

So do not remove and avoid losing waterproofing.

Julian Gonzalez -

Just to confirm the face id is not affected when replacing the earpiece assembly? Am I correct

mubeen.2011@hotmail.co.uk -

Sorry for the late response, but you are NOT correct. Replacing the earpiece speaker assembly will result in the loss of Face ID functionality. That's the whole assembly, including the speaker, dot projector and flood illuminator. If you unsolder the speaker from the assembly, that can be replaced by itself without losing Face ID, but any other part will cause it to quit working.