Substituição do conjunto da placa lógica do MacBook Pro 15" com tela Retina de meados de 2015

Passo 1

Remova os dois parafusos Torx T5 de 2,2 mm que fixam a capa do conector do cabo do touchpad à placa lógica.
Remova a capa.

I'm confused why it's necessary to remove the entire logic board to replace the right speaker?

Don't you just need to remove the I/O board for the right speaker?

When you say at the top of the article, "If you're only using a mild solvent such as isopropyl alcohol to loosen the battery, you can choose to leave these components in and skip steps 6-45", you forgot to mention that steps 26 and 27 are still necessary. Hoping that the screwpost I spudged loose before I noticed these two screws won't have 86ed my board.

Gil Gilliam -

Passo 2

Com a ponta plana de uma espátula, desconecte o conector do cabo do touchpad de seu soquete na placa lógica.
Fazer ligeiros movimentos de vai-e-vem com a ponta plana de uma espátula é uma maneira fácil de retirar o conector do cabo desses tipos de soquete.
Lembre-se de aplicar força apenas no conector, e não no soquete da placa lógica.

Passo 3

Remova uma capinha de borracha do parafuso na extremidade do dissipador de calor.

Passo 4

Remova os seis parafusos a seguir que fixam o conjunto da placa lógica à estrutura superior.
Um parafuso Torx T5 de 3,8 mm
Dois parafusos Torx T5 de 5,7 mm
Um parafuso Torx T5 de 5,6 mm (este é prateado e tem uma cabeça mais alta do que os outros)
Um parafuso Torx T5 de 2,6 mm
Um parafuso Torx T5 de 3,2 mm
Na remontagem, aperte ligeiramente todos os seis parafusos, mas não aperte bem nenhum deles. Mova a placa lógica até que todos os parafusos estejam centralizados com seus orifícios e as portas estejam alinhadas com suas aberturas na lateral da estrutura superior. Em seguida, termine de apertar todos os parafusos.

Top left and right screw (red, yellow) are silver, the other ones black.

Peter G - 04/06/19

Screw with blue circle was in a slightly different position on my logic board; the gold plating surrounding it is the giveaway.

prreitz - 17/09/20

This step is really best done after all the cables are removed (Step 40).

maccentric -

On the other hand, when reassembling, keep the screws until this step 29

Patrick Nance -

The red screw above is the same one I had to remove to remove the I/O board back in step 24

Al Moulder -

This red screw in this step is just to the right of the I/O Board screw in step 24.

Diane Kedge - 02/02/25

You should really do this colorblind-proof...

Alessandro Arnone -

Passo 5

As etapas a seguir detalharão a desconexão desses seis conectores. Certifique-se de ler cada uma das etapas, pois esses conectores vêm em estilos diferentes e se desconectam de forma diferente.
Cabo do microfone
Cabo do alto-falante esquerdo
Cabo de dados do teclado
Cabo do alto-falante direito
Cabo da retroiluminação do teclado
Cabo de dados do visor
Na remontagem, verifique se todos esses conectores estão conectados e totalmente encaixados em seus soquetes.

Save this step until you get to step 40

I would wait until after step 39 to remove these screws. Once they are removed, the logic board jiggles around and makes disconnecting the various cables in 31-39 more difficult.

Daniel Christie -

Bild/Schritt 30: Bitte beide Wörter "Lüfters” durch “Lautsprechers” ersetzen

Norbert -

Agree with Daniel Christie. Wait until step 39.

Patrick Nance -

Just did mine and also agree to do this at step 39. Author to edit?

livfe -

Passo 6

Com a ponta pontiaguda de uma espátula, vire para cima a aba de retenção do soquete ZIF do cabo plano do microfone.
Puxe o cabo plano do microfone para fora de seu soquete, paralelamente à placa lógica.

This cable was pretty hard to remove at first. I had to gently wiggle it from side-to-side in the socket before it would let go.

Jamie Flournoy - 07/05/21

I had the same issue. This was the hardest cable to remove imo. i was afraid i was going to tear it which as hard as i needed to pull it. I ended up leaving this cable inserted until the logic board was fully unscrewed to give me a bit more wiggle room.

Joseph Dale -

Passo 7

Com a ponta plana de uma espátula, erga o conector do alto-falante esquerdo e retire-o do soquete na placa lógica.
Certifique-se de erguer o conector do cabo e não o soquete da placa lógica. Se forçar o soquete, ele poderá se separar da placa lógica.
Com cuidado, vire o cabo para cima e para fora da placa lógica.

this cable was stuck down, so I had to wiggle the spudger under the cable first to separate the adhesive. Then it came away easily.

Pete Bagnall -

Same here, the cable was stuck down pretty. Thanks Pete, your advice helped a lot.

Al Moulder -

Passo 8

Retire a capinha que cobre a parte superior do conector do cabo de dados do teclado.

I wasn’t able to re-stick my tape during reassembly, not sure if that will cause issues but I’m not sure how to fix it.

aBrightBlur -

Passo 9

Com a ponta pontiaguda de uma espátula, levante a aba de retenção do soquete ZIF do cabo de dados do teclado.
Certifique-se de que esteja levantando a aba de retenção articulada, e não o soquete em si.
Puxe o cabo de dados do teclado para fora de seu soquete ZIF. Certifique-se de puxá-lo paralelamente à placa lógica, e não para cima.

The retaining flap broke on me during reassembly. I was careful, but it kind of got stuck. Pay extra attention and if it doesn’t give, don’t force it.

vincentdrummer - 23/02/20

Same thing happened to me. Didn’t really put much pressure either.

meadowsd - 28/12/20

Same there here.. I ended up using some tape to ensure the cable stayed seated upo nreassembly

Alan Dike -

hey its not a kick, take it easy on it. after replacing my battery my keyboard (and not Richards keyboard) and track pad are non responsive, Russell Stewart old neighbour .

Russell G Stewart -

The last picture doesn’t show it but my cable had blue plastic material on both top and bottom, which I had not noticed during disassembly. It slid in nicely but now not sure if it is an insulating material of some kind that should have been set aside?

Bill Klemme - 23/05/20

I can confirm blue colour of cable tip.

Mighty Sashiman - 11/09/20

The retaining flap broke off on us during reassembly also…we (husband/wife team) were very careful, but the center piece just broke out when we applied pressure. the blue material did fit under the cable socket (like a smooth blue ribbon), but without the retaining lock, was unsure it would stay in position. We pulled the tape over it and hoped all would work. Everything seems to be working fine for us.

Ann Brainard -

The retaining flap broke on me as well and caused a near panic. I actually managed to fix it by careful inspection under magnifier and some trial and error with tweezers. The retaining flap itself is comb shaped - a solid edge and then combs that come out between the wires., and apparently just held in by the tiniest of detents. After trying unsuccessfully to push it back down between the wires, I surmised that the gaps in the “comb” side for the wires were sealed loop and that the wires it sat on were open ended. So I eventually ended up lining the flap up as if it were closed, and then carefully nudging it up onto the top wires, which was succesful, and then pushing it back into the open position to get the detents in place. Then to close it after reinserting the cable I walked it down bit by bit by pushing forward and *downward* on each side to help it maintain it’s ‘hinging’ effect. I think frankly you’re better off pushing larger ones like these down with your finger instead of a tool.

Matt Fisher -

To close my retainer during reassembly I ended up using the side of the iFixit spudger. I pressed against the entire length of the retainer in order to apply equal pressure along the whole thing. It seemed to work well.

aBrightBlur -

This guidance helped me so thanks for sharing!

Adam R -

I didn't have a clip on this connector. I previously had my battery replaced at an ubreakifix "repair" joint, and so I have a sneaking suspicion they broke it off. It stinks, but I understand why they wouldn't have bothered to mention it to me. So, yeah - be careful during this stage.

Jay Bellissimo -

Passo 10

Com a ponta de uma espátula, erga o conector do alto-falante direito e retire-o do soquete na placa lógica.
Certifique-se de erguer o conector do cabo e não o soquete da placa lógica. Se forçar o soquete, ele poderá se separar da placa lógica.
Com cuidado, vire o cabo para cima e para fora da placa lógica.

There's not much space here to work with. I found it helpful to remove the screws holding down the battery board, which allowed it to be lifted out a bit for easier access to this connector.

maccentric -

I used the tweezers on this and that was very effective in popping this cable out.

Al Moulder -

Passo 11

Com a ponta de uma espátula, erga o conector da retroiluminação do teclado de seu soquete na placa lógica.

On reassembly it would be great to have some tips on how to properly locate this connector…it’s kind of fussy.

Bill Klemme - 23/05/20

Thanks for calling this out. I took a picture of the socket after disconnecting. I can see why it might have been less obvious on reassembly.

David Carroll - 30/11/20

Also on reassembly - when putting in the logic board make sure this connector is not underneath. Once you have the logic board in, double check and if needed you can slightly lift up the logic board (like to take it out) and use the spudger to scoop it out.

Jason Joyner - 31/01/21

I found that this was actually really easy to get back on by using my finger instead of a tool, as I could just wiggle it back and forth slightly until I felt it seat. Hopefully using your fingers isn’t verboten - I was strapped in at the time and everything worked out in the end.

Matt Fisher -

the picture is mirrored

Daniel Luescher -

The picture is not mirrored if you see the heat sink that curves to the up and left it is not mirrored.

Will Greider -

Ensure the board is completely lined up when reassembling. The cable is incredibly fragile, and I unfortunately ripped mine when trying to line it up. Avoidable error.

Metz Jnr - 17/10/23

Passo 12

Com a ponta pontiaguda de uma espátula, levante a trava do cabo de dados da tela e gire-a em direção ao lado do conector de energia MagSafe 2 do computador.

+(mit dem schwarzen Klebeband zusammen)

Verwende die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Verschluss des Displaydatenkabels nach oben zu klappen (mit dem schwarzen Klebeband zusammen) und ihn in Richtung MagSafe 2-Powerport zu drehen.

Mihály Plajner - 16/09/18

My mid-2015 has a flexible plastic tape on the cable lock bar, pulling the tape up with tweezers easily rotated the locking bar.

prreitz - 17/09/20

Passo 13

Puxe o cabo de dados da tela em linha reta para fora de seu soquete na placa lógica.
Não levante o cabo de dados da tela, pois seu soquete é muito frágil. Puxe o cabo paralelamente à superfície da placa lógica.
Não toque com os dedos nem com qualquer ferramenta nos contatos do conector de dados ou no seu soquete, pois com isso poderão se depositar óleos ou os pinos poderão ser danificados.
Com cuidado, vire o cabo de dados da tela em direção à dobradiça da tela, para expor os parafusos da placa do MagSafe 2.

The wording of the instruction: “Pull the display data cable STRAIGHT OUT of its socket on the logic board” could lead to errors. It almost happened to me.

Instead you should word it: “Pull the display data cable parallel to the face of the logic board being careful to keep it straight and NOT LIFT UP on the cable”.

I realize you mention it later in the warning immediately below, however, by first saying “pull the cable straight out” leads to confusion and could lead the user to attempt to interpret “PULL STRAIGHT OUT” as “PULL UP” unsuccesfully only to later notice, maybe after breaking it, that there was a warning.

Wording it properly the first time will make the warning unnecessary.

Robert Habib - 08/09/20

I had the same thought as I almost proceeded without noticing the red text warning.

I especially think the second warning about not touching the contacts on the data connectors should be listed before the instructions on removing it.

David Carroll - 30/11/20

Agree with Robert. Suggest “SLIDE the display cable to the right, out of its socket…” would be less misleading.

prreitz - 17/09/20

I think it bears repeating just how fragile this connector is, particularly on reinsertion. The problem isn’t just technicians touching the connector end; you can damage the pins simply by inserting it slightly out of alignment, or at an angle, because the outermost pins are VERY close to the edge and are very fragile. They have the appearance of being embedded in the connector but they’re actually spring traces just lying on top of it. I managed to bend the southmost pin upwards reinserting it; luckily it flattened out again and worked, but if it had not been possible to do that it’d have been a whole new screen assembly.

Jerome - 14/12/20

I’m pretty sure I inadvertently touched the connectors. Would this cause immediate errors or obscure, difficult-to-diagnose problems later in life ? Also strongly suggest using magnification when disconnecting and reconnecting this connector and others to ensure proper alignment. As Jerome said these are some of the most fragile parts of the system.

Matt Fisher -

I'm jumping on the bandwagon here and saying that yes, pull the cable out towards the right (where the MagSafe connector) and not up. I also found using the tweezers made this easier.

Big fan of the tweezers.

Al Moulder -

Passo 14

Remova os dois parafusos Torx T5 de 4,0 mm da placa do MagSafe 2.

I didn’t take these out - just lifted the mainboard away and set it to the back while I removed and replaced the left speaker.

Troy Havard -

on my Mid 2015 MBP the MagSafe 2 board is wired to the logic board on the underside (keyboard side) so the screws had to come out. The following photo showing the logic board coming out does not show the MagSafe 2 board, so there is clearly some variation between these models.

Richard Bugg -

Richard, mine too.

prreitz -

Passo 15

Levante e puxe todo o conjunto da placa lógica para fora da estrutura superior.
Na remontagem, certifique-se de alinhar as portas com seus recortes na estrutura superior.

When reassembling, be careful not to leave any cables (such as keyboard backlight connector, step 36) under the board.

Andrey Pirozhenko - 10/04/20

I had to tape most of the cables out of the way while reinstalling the logic board, because they kept returning to their plugged-in shape under the logic board as I tried to position it properly.

Jamie Flournoy - 07/05/21

Also, make sure to align the right (and left) I/O properly, making sure the tabs on each port are underneath the lip of the aluminum frame. In my case, I couldn’t push the logic board far enough to align the screws until I had done this.

Alek Curless - 09/05/20

Yes. This step is crucial. Thanks for pointing it out!

jonvdez - 26/06/20

I was struggling to align it and was beginning to get frustrated. I had to look back at photos to make sure the tabs had to go under the lip of the aluminum frame. Unfortunately I read your comment after the fact. Thank you.

Robert Habib - 08/09/20

if you’re only removing the right speaker, no need to remove the logic board. Simply lift the edge of the logic board to remove the speaker cable.

Gareth Jones - 17/01/21

I had to remove one of the screws from the battery board before the logic board had enough clearance to lift up.

Jim Guyton - 09/03/21

We (husband/wife team) just slid the logic board out to right, and did not entirely remove. For reassembly, we reviewed all the cables and made sure they were positioned out of the way, or taped back, before repositioning the logic board back into position. Worth it to review before getting it back into position.

Ann Brainard -

There are 2 more screws to be removed before the motherboard comes out. One were SSD was and one at 40 Degree position to right fan. It has a golden base ring. Easy to spot

anupraje -

Yes, I missed those two screws from Step 29 -- funny that we both missed that!

kevin -

Does the logic board prevent us from removing the battery? I’m trying to figure out why we are removing it.

John Sikking -

I agree John, tearing everything out is more of a risk then could be done ungluing the battery

Russell G Stewart -

Because the acetone can damage the board and connections -- in case of accident ;)

kevin -

why is the heatsink still attached?

patjmccarthy -