Substituição da bateria do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina de início de 2015

Escrito Por: Andrew Optimus Goldheart
  • Comentários: 484
Substituição da bateria do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina de início de 2015

Dificuldade

Difícil

Passos

36

Tempo necessário

45 minutos - 2 horas

Introdução

Use este guia para remover a bateria colada de seu MacBook Pro. A melhor maneira de fazer isso é com a ajuda de um kit de substituição de bateria da iFixit; o removedor de adesivos líquido do kit dissolverá o adesivo que fixa a bateria, permitindo que você a remova com facilidade. Como alternativa, você pode usar um iOpener para aplicar uma pequena quantidade de calor, com a finalidade de amolecer o adesivo antes de retirar a bateria.

O removedor de adesivos da iFixit é altamente inflamável. Execute esse procedimento em uma área bem ventilada. Não fume nem trabalhe próximo a uma chama aberta durante esse procedimento.

Para minimizar o risco de danos, ligue o MacBook e deixe a bateria descarregar completamente antes de iniciar este procedimento. Uma bateria de íons de lítio carregada pode desencadear um incêndio perigoso, se for acidentalmente perfurada. Se a bateria estiver inchada, tome precauções adicionais.

Observação: o solvente usado para dissolver o adesivo da bateria pode danificar determinados plásticos, como os compartimentos de plástico dos alto-falantes do MacBook Pro. Tome cuidado ao aplicar o solvente.

  1. ovJZXaUhKXaROGSa

    • Remova os seguintes dez parafusos que fixam a estrutura traseira à estrutura superior:

    • Dois parafusos P5 Pentalobe de 2,3 mm

    • Oito parafusos P5 Pentalobe de 3,0 mm

    • Durante o reparo, rastreie todos os parafusos e certifique-se de que eles retornem exatamente ao local de onde vieram, para evitar danos ao dispositivo.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos -

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing -

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward -

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch -

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch -

    Yes! I use this technique all the time with any screw that has to fit back into its original hole. I have been doing this for over 50 years and is one of the tips I always give to anyone who I may be advising or working with on some item.

    Michael Scheinberg -

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard -

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash -

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham -

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie -

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers -

    Installation of replacement AirPort card was easier than I had expected thanks to this guide. Thank you.

    chaslaw -

    I use replaced SSD and it was super easy and working great. I can finally upgrade Mac OS with plenty of room to spare and no more low memory alerts. Well worth investment and didn’t have to buy new laptop

    Pete James -

    It's interesting that this tutorial is rated Moderate even though you need to remove the battery. The battery removal tutorial which is basically the same but with fewer steps is rated Difficult.

    Marv Ruona -

    when i pulled the screws out i arranged them in the same way they were in. the top 2 middle screws appeared to be shorter than the rest. in order to keep them in place i got a square of packing tape sticky side up, taped both sides down with 2 other pieces of tape. and then put the screws head down in the order i pulled them.

    Jason Wade -

    Excellent instructions although checking battery and speakers aligned before fixing batteries into place is essential. MacBook good as new!

    John Foreman -

    I find it helpful to spread a soft, slightly fuzzy cloth (like flannel) over my workspace before doing something with small parts. It keeps screws and things from rolling or bouncing away. A towel might be too plush, though, as a screw might get lost in it.

    Richard KeslerWest -

    I cannot get the two screws (that are different than the other ones) out and now they’re stripped. Any idea what to do without using a drill?

    Honeybee94 -

    DO NOT REMOVE SPEAKER CABLES!! The connectors are fragile. Just remove speakers and bend attached cable away from battery. Same for trackpad cable connector at front side. This cable crosses the middle of the battery. Just remove the one connector on the back side - leave front side connector attached and fold cable toward front of computer out of way of battery.

    Paul Lebow -

    Is there a mistake in the wrench size?

    When I did it I used a 1.3mm one.

    ちくわちくわ -

    The Dutch site fixje.nl says (see under "Welke MacBook Pro A1502 batterij kopen?") that the A1582 battery, which is for the Early 2015 version of the A1502 13-inch MacBook Pro, will fit the Late 2013–Mid 2014 versions of the A1502 13-inch MacBook Pro.

    The A5182 battery has a higher capacity (6559 mAh) than the A1493 battery (6330 mAh), which is for the Late 2013–Mid 2014 models.

    Can anyone confirm that the Early 2015 battery will actually fit in and work with the earlier A1502 models?

    Philip Dygeus -

    Just finished the battery replacement for Macbook Pro 13 in Early 2015. Followed the instructions to the letter. Everything went back together perfectly and now waiting for the battery to charge. Very appreciative of the instructions and the tools provided to do this job! Thank you iFixit!!

    LOL - now considering replacing the SSD hard drive...

    Abraham Wick -

    Just at note. My wife cut her finger on one the pentalope screwheads tonight. Several of the screws where loose, but thanks to this guide I could go into my new screwdriver set and pick out a P5 and fasten all the screws. It save a trip to the other side of town. (I knew that my repair set for her previous model - mac pro 2010 - would not work)

    Leif Andersen -

  2. LeHZGQqOmJ5HNBPs

    • Coloque seus dedos entre a estrutura superior e a estrutura inferior.

    • Puxe cuidadosamente a estrutura inferior, afastando-a da estrutura superior, para removê-la.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont -

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll -

    If your old battery has swollen, the lower case may “pop” open. Don’t lose your screws!

    Maxine Loveman -

  3. 3QrmmYdOGiTrsDa3
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    • A estrutura inferior está conectada com a estrutura superior por meio de dois clipes de plástico que se encontram perto do centro dela.

    • Durante a remontagem, empurre suavemente para baixo no centro da estrutura inferior para travar novamente os dois clipes de plástico.

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt -

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman -

    If you’re doing an iFixIt battery replacement, the replacement battery has two rubber nubs which are right where the clips are that receive these studs. Folks have been saying it’s hard to get the studs to clip back in after replacement, and I had the same issue. I trimmed the top of these rubber nubs, which are a bit bigger than those on the original battery, with some side cutters. That made the fit much better.

    Rob Gorbet -

    My housing literally flew off the MacBook from pushy puffy batteries.. it's definitely not a problem to just put this back on correctly when the housing hasn't bent too much out of shape

    mahyongg -

  4. RjNdjyPoDnNTyyUB

    • Se necessário, remova a capa de plástico colada na placa de contato da bateria.

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm -

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose -

    Dear Sir,

    as you seem to be very much experienced with battery replacements you might perhaps give me a hint why after having removed the battery pack successfilly, the keyboard doesn't work anymore after booting the system. The Touchpad works, the keyboard backlight works but typing does not function at all.

    I only disconnected the battery connector and touched nothing else. I am quite desperate …

    Gerd Uyan -

    I agree with Dave la Rose, provided you use heat rather than solvent to remove the old battery (or possibly floss, haven’t done that). Please see my comment further down this thread on how to use an iOpener for correctly heating the glue joint

    I. Margaronis -

    After removing battery contact board plastic. My screwdriver accidentally fell and touched the battery board. And it short circuited. Now my battery doesn't charge. My laptop doesn't work without charger now. shuts after a few minutes of use. Can i fix it without sending it for repairs?

    Phillip Ngwenya -

    Is replacing the battery necessary?

    Ralph Louis -

    For speaker replacement of course not, but you still need to disconnect the battery cable to disconnect the current from the speaker circuit.

    O Bana -

    How do we know if it's necessary to replace the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board?

    What are the factors that would require that?

    Lux -

    I think this step is only necessary for battery replacements; i.e. not necessary for speaker replacements (these instructions are used for both).

    Gary -

    Bonjour,

    Je vais changer ma batterie car mon ordinateur portable ne s'allume plus et ne se charge plus. Le clavier ne fonctionne plus non plus. Est-ce que changer la batterie suffit ?

    De plus, l'intérieur de mon ordinateur est légèrement encrassé. Comment puis-je le nettoyer ?

    Merci pour votre aide,

    Papy_barnabe -

    use the flat part, not the pointy part of the prying tool. I found it easy to wedge between the chipset and the lip of the plug, but from the other side than whats indicated in the picture. Then wobble it a little, just enough to loose the plug. Then do the same from the side indicated in the pic. No worries whatsoever. (And yes, this step is necessary, in order to disconnect the current from the speaker assembly)

    O Bana -

    Very new here. First timer. But why am I doing steps 4, 5, and 6, if I’m just trying to replace the SSD?

    I have a 2011 13inch. My SSD crashed and won’t read anymore. I have nothing backed up and I have not updated the OS as advised above. Is there a need for steps 4, 5, and 6. And even more so, is there a point to salvaging this if nothing is backed-up and and the OS can’t be updated to macOS 10.13 High Sierra (or a later macOS)?

    chrissdm@gmail.com -

  5. Z3NUBtyfmOAH54su
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    • Com a ponta plana de uma espátula, levante o conector da bateria para fora de seu soquete na placa lógica.

    • Certifique-se de levantar apenas o conector, e não o soquete, ou você corre o risco de danificar permanentemente a placa lógica.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 -

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin -

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon -

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama -

    The connector is no more than 1mm thick… the socket is 3-to-4mm deep so make sure you’re trying to remove the connector itself, and not pulling at the socket.

    Richie Egg -

    Thank you Richie I was trying to lift the socket.

    be careful the little square block is actually made of 2 parts and you only have to lift the upper part as Richie said

    ilyes -

    You can do it from the side like the picture, but i would recommend twisting almost like a screw driver once you have leverage under the overhanging part of the left side like in the picture. Twist the tool so that it starts to put pressure on the top, until you’ll hear it click out. You can be somewhat forceful but it shouldn’t require a lot of strength. Guiding the tool with one hand and twisting with the other is a good way to attempt this.

    Colin Nowers -

    After I put the battery back I found out at this step that the new battery connector was off by 2 mm (because I installed my battery slightly off). Since the connector is rigid, I removed it’s plastic cover (just like we all did in Step 4) to free the cable, which allowed me to bent it enough to properly plug the connector.

    Marc -

    Simple question: why we need to do this, I mean, disconnect battery from main board?

    Bin Zhu -

    Well, I’m reading this step in the battery replacement repair guide, so it’s pretty critical to disconnect the battery from the main board. I’m guessing these steps are reused in other guides where disconnecting the battery might not be such an obvious need.

    surf -

    Also wondering the same. I came here from a link to replace the fan. Is it necessary to disconnect the battery inorder to replace the fan?

    Chris Andrews -

    The connector wires from the battery to the connector are long

    You'll have to bend them downward and into the small cove that exists so the connector can fit in place.
    So use the a plastic card or flat end of the spudger to bend them downward and folded a bit back so the connector will fit in place.
    Use your old battery as a guide for how they should be bent.

    RON BUENO -

    Hi All ,

    I followed the instructions step by step and changed the board successfully and reconnected everything back. When I powered it back on I can see it is charging again however it just displays a black screen and no display. Keyboard light comes on as well and the apple logo light on the back lid also turns on. Not sure what is wrong ? It has been charging for more than 15 minutes and still no joy. Anyone able to help solve or identify the issue .

    Thanks

    Kaleem -

    The connector cover is slightly wider and longer than the socket (<1mm) so there is a small "lip" around the top that can be used to lift it.

    Richard KeslerWest -

    If your are not familiar with those repairs, and as with most of those connections, I recommend to take the time to observe your computer and the pictures from the tutorial, reading instructions and comments before starting each step. This battery connector needs both a bit of force and of precision. For a battery repair the connection of the new battery is a bit more tricky, you need to have your battery in the right position and to force it a bit the connector

    David Obis -

    Hi, I only want to remove/examine/possibly replace the left speaker as it's crackling..........I don't think I need to remove the battery connector to the logic board?

    Mickeytix -

    Did you get an answer to your question? I have the same thought.

    Michael Takamoto -

    I initially thought the battery connector completely comes off. It does not! In the next step (#6) they explain that you only have to sort of 'unhinge' on its south side and bend it out of the way it so it comes off the connector on the board

    Mukund -

    Excellent instructions.

    As always, the ifixit illustrated instructions are extremely detailed and helpful. And now, tools and accessories are included. Thank you, ifixit.com.

    BTW, you can remove the speakers without unplugging the plugs, carefully unwind the wires, and then set them aside.

    Vincent -

    Keep the old battery handy to see how to bend the new wires into shape with forceps. Those wires are quite short and stiff, and have to fit down in the narrow ditch between the battery and the socket. Use the spudger to mash them down in there. Even when you do that, it's not easy to match the plug to the socket. But if you stand up and lean over the computer, to look at it from the front and upside-down, you'll see exactly what you're doing, and the plug snaps right in.

    kathexis -

    I am following this guide to exchange the display, and I don't think that disconnecting the battery is necessary for that (many steps of these guides are featured in different guides)

    Ari A. -

  6. FwTIMvtITSjKBUfL

    • Vire o conector da bateria para cima para evitar o contato acidental com o soquete durante o reparo.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes -

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab -

    @sebasgaes, shoot, I'm only part way through the process, but I skipped this step thinking it wasn't necessary. I'm only through step 12 right now, but is there a fix if my machine doesn't recognize the wifi hardware after I've put it all back together? I don't see reference to the "I/O board cable" anywhere else in the instructions, so I'm confused about your mention of that...

    jiclark -

    UPDATE: I completed the job, rebooted, and all is well, wifi and all. Thanks anyway; gotta love iFixIt!!

    jiclark -

  7. BaEMrdqmfI1UZZTE
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    • Remova os dois parafusos Torx T5 de 2,1 mm que fixam a extremidade do suporte do cabo da placa de E/S onde fica a placa lógica.

    • Remova o suporte do cabo da placa de E/S.

    Do you know where I can purchase the i/o board cable bracket?

    jodieabc -

    On my Mac they are p6 screws, not T5?!

    tyler.aman -

    Same for me. T6 screws, with a slighly narrow band (no central connector).

    Catalin Dumitru -

    iFixit should revisit this guide to reevaluate and clean it up a bit. In order to replace only the battery, steps 8, 9, 10, 11, 13 and 14 are not necessary, reducing the amount of damage risk involved. After removing the speaker screws in steps 12 and 15, the speakers can be easily swung up out of the way and set on the logic board, leaving them attached to their delicate connectors.

    The Track Pad cable connector in step 17 should be disconnected, but not the other end of the cable at the ZIF connector, further reducing risk. The battery is easily removed and replaced from under the Track Pad Cable with only the upper end removed.

    I should add that an actual connector puller is superior (in most cases) to using a spudger for removing these logic board connectors. I'd purchased mine from iFixit long ago, so not sure if they are still available.

    randy3833 -

    Thank you! I was just getting ready to ask that exact question, whether it's really necessary to completely remove the speakers and the trackpad connector.

    colleenthompson -

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    • Com a ponta plana de uma espátula, desprenda o conector da placa de E/S de seu soquete na placa lógica.

    • Tenha cuidado para erguer apenas o cabo da placa de E/S e não o soquete em si, senão você corre o risco de danificar a placa lógica.

    Since I did not remove speakers I skipped this step and went directly to step 17

    Peter Stoll -

    This was a great tip - I just moved the speakers out of the way without disconnecting them, which made things easy to deal with. Thank you.

    A B -

    I don’t understand why the instructions would tell you to remove the speakers if it wasn’t necessary. Can the battery be replaced WITHOUT removing the speakers?

    iwm4 -

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step (Step 8) is not required, nor are any of the other steps that involve removing the left and right speakers. It is possible to remove the old battery and install a new battery without removing the speakers.

    Luke Schoen -

    I couldn’t skip steps 12 & 15 because the speaker assemblies are holding down parts of the battery.

    Dave Olsen -

    the speaker are better to be unscrewed but not disconnected. You can just turn them away from the battery while replacing and proceed to step 17.

    Igor Kapitanker -

    I did this as suggested and it was much easier than disconnecting entirely

    N DesRochers -

    This video shows battery replacement without removing speakers.

    https://youtu.be/Lue6lVWhh4o

    Jerry Laufer -

    Removing the speakers is very important if you use solvent — solvent will damage the speakers and can lead to a horrible buzzing. I failed to understand this and skipped removing the speakers when dissolving the glue and paid the price: speakers that are essentially unusable.

    (Whether to disconnect the speakers is a judgment call, but removing them from the battery cavity is important.)

    John Hawkinson -

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    • Levante a ponta do cabo da placa de E/S onde fica a placa lógica, puxando-o em linha reta, para dobre-o e tire-o do caminho.

    • Para evitar danos ao cabo, dobre somente na curva da extremidade da placa de E/S do cabo.

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step is not required. See my comments in Step 8.

    Luke Schoen -

    Thank you - this tip saved me a lot of time and hassle.

    A B -

    I took off the other end as well so I did not have a cable flopping in the wind.

    mmmosher -

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    • Com cuidado, coloque a ponta de uma espátula sob o cabo do alto-falante direito próximo ao conector e levante-o para fora do soquete na placa lógica.

    I have performed battery swap without disconnecting the speakers!

    Aleš Smokvina -

    Did that mean that you left the speakers attached to the case? If so, did that make removing the end sections of the battery very difficult? Thanks.

    iwm4 -

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step is not required. See my comments in Step 8.

    Luke Schoen -

    On mine the cable connector pulls out to the left, not upwards

    John Harland -

    Once disconnected, you will see that the speaker socket pins are horizontal. You might think the connector needs to slide into the pins, but it does not. The connecter is reattached by pressing straight down. After the connector is in place, use the flat end of the spudger to make sure the connector is fully seated.

    Steven Cutchen -

    This step should be skipped.I pulled it all off, hard to pull one off alone.

    You can skip step 10,11 go to 12, and fold it over. Same as left.

    Then go to step 17.

    yong jack -

    This should NOT be done. Shame on iFixit! Its easy to rip the socket off the board if the connector holding too tight. I had to resolder the socket onto the traces of the board.

    Paul Lebow -

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    • Retire cuidadosamente o cabo do alto-falante direito da estrutura superior.

    I have successfully replaced battery without removing the speaker cables, as proposed by the comments in the next steps.

    Furthermore, in the steps after 22, where the battery is removed from the upper case, I have easily performed with a credit card and a drop of rubbing alcohol on it and finished in several minutes. Try it!

    kem -

    Kem, please could you explain how you got the end battery sections out of the case with the speakers still attached. Still very puzzled by this!

    iwm4 -

    mine broke ._.

    wyatt risner -

  12. oUMOiCBTZmImIwGl

    • Remova os parafusos a seguir que fixam o alto-falante direito à estrutura superior:

    • Um parafuso Torx T5 de 5,7 mm

    • Um parafuso Torx T5 de 6,5 mm

    • Um parafuso Torx T5 de 3,8 mm

    Make sure you replace these screws exactly where they came from, same with the other speak.

    Dustin Steward -

    Beware that when you keep the screws together with the speaker in a dish or container that the screws may appear to be missing upon reassembly. Remember that the speakers contain a small magnet and may attract the screws to them.

    Came close to filing for divorce thinking the Mrs. had meddled with my stuff while I was on a break.

    Liam -

  13. CAFvyMnLlN6ubFQV
    CAFvyMnLlN6ubFQV
    RbG4WiPeifkVPjZf
    pZnrZXAjQ4iysBEL

    • Levante o alto-falante direito da ponta do cabo e puxe-o para fora da estrutura.

    When replacing with the new speaker, the new piece could have some blue strips on the cable. Remove them to let the adhesive do its job and attach the cable to the surroundings to avoid having it loose.

    Victor Alcantar -

    I was wondering where I can buy a good replacement. Some users comply about the bad quality of sound after replacing the speakers. Can you suggest a link where to buy good replacement parts (possibly Italy / EU ) ?!

    Alberto Mennella -

    Hi everyone.

    I have a problem with the right speaker of my macbook pro early 2015.

    The sound has a strange vibration and it is impossible to hear the audio properly except with headphones.

    I disassembled the macbook and extracted the speakers to check their condition but they are both perfect.

    I wanted to ask all of you who have replaced speakers what condition you found them in.

    Could the vibration be due to the deformation of the case due to the swelling of the battery? Is there another way to tell if the speaker actually needs to be replaced?

    Thank you all.

    Antonello Cicciu' -

    My speakers where quite dirty... i imagine mineral dust, that is attracted by the magnetic force. Perhaps a reason for them to stop working well. It was seriously distorted, couldnt make out much of the sound. Now, bought some in China and all good - seem like original parts, look identical in details even.

    O Bana -

  14. ZJJqc5UNeX1iDIRC
    ZJJqc5UNeX1iDIRC
    FlgfTpEMutJonPtr

    • Insira a ponta de uma espátula por debaixo do cabo do alto-falante esquerdo, próximo ao conector, e levante-o, afastando-o do soquete na placa lógica.

    Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).

    barak -

    Yes, no need to unplug the speakers cable. I used the solent, just put speakers on the motherboard.

    Aleš Smokvina -

    slight touch of glue secures speaker cable to MB. Use steady light presuure with spudger edge to unglue and then disconnect cable from MB

    Macrepair SF -

    I picked up my steps back here when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13”. I used the flat part of the spudger and gently, carefully applied a fulcrum upward pressure to the base of the speaker connector to help pop it off.

    Evan Shulman -

    I, too, found it unnecessary to unplug this speaker. It was easy, and not stressful to the speaker cable, to fold the speaker upwards and rest it on the motherboard.

    Ralph Begleiter -

    When removing the left speaker as shown in the image in the photo, the left-most fixing part (protrusion) is broken. Will there be any problems using it?

    JangJaeHee -

    Ugh. I agree with Barak; why is touching the speakers in these guides? On both the 13” and 15” you can easily replace the batteries WITHOUT even vaguely touching the batteries…

    davelarose -

    Parts of this guide are used for other guides, such as replacing the top case. But also, the speakers can be damaged by solvents, so it’s not a bad idea if the method you’re using has the possibility of getting solvent on them. It’s easy enough to just remove the screws and move the speakers out of the way without disconnecting them.

    maccentric -

    Removing the speakers is very important if you use solvent — solvent will damage the speakers and can lead to a horrible buzzing. I failed to understand this and skipped removing the speakers when dissolving the glue and paid the price: speakers that are essentially unusable.

    That said, unplugged is not necessary, merely removing the speakers (Step 16).

    John Hawkinson -

    For a battery repair with the heat method, as indicated in other comments on prior steps, you may skip this step, just unscrew the speaker and put it away when working on the battery. For this specific left speaker - on the right during the repair - you need to be careful with the protruding bit from the frame when moving the cable. Just guide the cable above or below as needed during the repair, to prevent to damage the cable with this protruding part.

    David Obis -

    Speakers aren't working now... perhaps because I connected and disconnected then while the battery was still on. Even headphones don't work... Hmm...

    justsome631 -

    Its absolutely true, this is not neccessary. It works greate without removing the speakers

    Andreas Schmidt -

    This procedure is used for both battery and speaker replacements. I wish the applicable steps were better defined.

    Gary -

  15. 4LqGrcr5WY22wZRV

    • Remova os parafusos a seguir que fixam o alto-falante esquerdo na estrutura superior:

    • Um parafuso Torx T5 de 5,7 mm

    • Um parafuso Torx T5 de 6,5 mm

    • Um parafuso Torx T5 de 3,8 mm

    Same note as above: Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter -

    Where can I get these 3 sizes of t5 torx screw drivers?

    greg steigleder -

    Greg, the T5 Torx screw driver is one size. The different sizes listed above are the *lengths* of the screws, not the diameter of the screw head. Hope that helps.

    Patrick G -

    My Torx screws are so locked i can not take it out. The Torx 5 screw driver slips. What can i do? Can i also get new screws later to put in?

    robertverheij -

    Hi,

    If the T5 slips you may have not the correct size ? I have done may speaker, no screw was ever that tight. All 3 screws the same problem ?

    Horst Droege -

    Mine are the same way. If it's the wrong size, what is the correct size? Using the same pentalobe screwdriver I used to remove the cover that I purchased from fixit.

    Michael Takamoto -

    Where can I replace these screws?

    One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    kate Taverna -

    Did you ever find the replacement screws? If so, where…I need them also!

    David Wamsley -

    Once again.

    NO NEED NO NEED NO NEED

    davelarose -

    Muchas gracias amigo, cambié las bocinas sin problema. :)

    Juan Antonio -

  16. rgp1EWRLf4fha4rr
    rgp1EWRLf4fha4rr
    d5kZNfdFZpKjwxVP
    2ehHvwCFxLJAPdmv

    • Levante o canto do alto-falante esquerdo e remova-o da estrutura superior contornando a bateria.

    • Tenha cuidado para não prender o cabo do alto-falante no orifício do parafuso na lateral da estrutura.

    There’s a typo in this section.

    “Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it out AROUND the battery to remove it from the upper case.”

    Patrick G -

    If I have a case assembly with battery and trackpad, the above instructions say to skip steps 18 - 44. So, how do the battery and trackpad disconnect otherwise since I need everything else to reassemble. Am I missing something?

    Brett Levine -

    after step 9 what??? i cannot see the next steps….

    kotakidisoklp -

    Réparation faite en moins de 5 minutes chrono (j’avais lu et relu le tuto et l’avais répété autant de fois “dans ma tête” le temps de la réception du haut parleur endommagé). Réparation très facile, faite en moins de 10 minutes tout compris. Vraiment bravo et merci !

    Eric -

    Why does this step exist?

    Unneeded…

    davelarose -

    Removing the speakers is very important if you use solvent — it will damage the speakers and can lead to a horrible buzzing. I failed to understand this and skipped removing the speakers when dissolving the glue and paid the price: speakers that are essentially unusable. (See comment on Step 14).

    John Hawkinson -

    For a battery repair with the heat method, I needed to remove the speakers, but not the connectors, just unscrew the speaker and put them away when working on the battery

    David Obis -

  17. TG2TPqEUqMmRquwq
    TG2TPqEUqMmRquwq
    Dc4eSPgWX2igUnyC

    • Com a ponta plana de uma espátula, retire o conector do trackpad de seu soquete na placa lógica.

    The trackpad cable can also be of a different type where you pull the tape on it

    Rogier van der Heide -

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you might instead see a trackpad connector that has a loose tape on it. If the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery then it is possible to skip this step. It is not necessary to pull the tape. Note that I had an A1502 MacBook Pro laptop and was replacing its A1493 battery, it had the trackpad cable going “under” the battery, so I skipped this step and was still able to successfully replace the battery.

    Luke Schoen -

    If you also remove the other end of the mouse cable, remember to lower the lever when you reinsert it.

    Maximillian -

    It is important to be really GENTLE with the trackpad cable.

    It is sometimes glued on very strong, and it is easy to damage it internally with no visible outer damage. In my case, I damaged just one line, and at first I didn't realize it.

    My TRACKPAD was working fine, but the Force Touch haptic Feedback wasn't working. I tried everything else, but eventually I replaced this ribbon cable with a cheap used one and that fixed it immediately.

    Flo -

  18. 4BQhFCeDhoMXZVqC
    4BQhFCeDhoMXZVqC
    sBTyFwUx5bbKAwMN

    • Levante o cabo do trackpad, afastando-o da bateria, para separá-lo do adesivo que o prende.

    • Tenha cuidado para não danificar o cabo. Se ele não se soltar facilmente, aplique um pouco de calor com um iOpener, uma pistola de ar quente ou um secador de cabelo para amolecer o adesivo e tente novamente.

    • Se estiver instalando um novo cabo de trackpad, certifique-se de dobrar o novo cabo para que ele tenha um formato idêntico ao do cabo antigo. O novo cabo parecerá ser longo demais se ele não for dobrado.

    On the picture above, it looks like, that the CIF cable for the keyboard, located right to the trackpad cable, should also be separated, but this is not necessary. You can leave it attached.

    anmeldung -

    What helped release the cable was to place the body of the spudger under the cable and rotate it upward as I gently pulled it down to release the cable from the adhesive. It may not have been necessary, but it did help.

    Todd S. Jones -

    I did this after reading your comment and it worked incredibly well!

    N DesRochers -

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.

    Luke Schoen -

    For people having keyboard or trackpad issues:

    If you followed the disassembly photos you may have lifted the the tap on the ZIF connector in Step 18 image. Note the lifted “tape” below the thumb. This may release the ZIF Connector and cause keyboard issues. Make sure the black retaining bar is in the down position on the ZIF Connector.

    Also, check the ZIF connector in Step 19 and 20. The Black plastic retaining bar MUST be in the “up/open” position to remove and reinstall the ribbon cable.

    Donald MacTavish -

    Great help using your comment.

    I thought I have damaged the ZIF connector on the bottom part.

    It happened it was loose and needed to lift the retaining bar to "open" position, reconnect the cable, then move the retaining bar to the "close" position. Voilà.

    Thanks a lot!

    Andy -

    Mine was really stuck, but I didn't have any tools to heat it up. So I tried a floss, it went easy peasy lemon squeezy. Go very slow and steady. Also, you don't need to disconnect the other end which is very fragile, I used a tweezer from the kit to simply hold it back.

    Marie Alice -

    I used a hair dryer to heat up the adhesive under the cable. It helps fast because the cable is so thin.

    Jussi Hirvi -

  19. lCWoVbCMWKsQFdhT
    lCWoVbCMWKsQFdhT
    uthXNlIVF3rxaYOP
    2IiN2srZxf1qyxyp

    • Se necessário, remova a fita que estiver cobrindo o conector do cabo do trackpad.

    • Use a ponta de uma espátula para virar a aba de retenção do conector ZIF.

    Overall, I really enjoyed this project and it was a complete success but this step is the one spot I came up short. I forgot to flip the retaining tab back down when I reassembled and I got a totally unresponsive keyboard and trackpad before I opened it back up and realized I had forgotten this tiny but crucial step.

    nathan taylor -

    I also forgot to flip the ZIF connector. Thankfully my trackpad worked after.

    Make sure to flip the ZIF connector before putting the trackpad cable back, too.

    ibash -

    I did not remove this retaining clip for fear of not getting it plugged in again then just carefully folded it back to clear battery instal

    Peter Stoll -

    This was the most challenging part of the installation. Putting this tab back, it's so fragile and difficult to put back. I thought it was going to get damaged but it worked.

    Gaetano Daidone -

    Like Peter, I just folded it back a bit and had care to keep it out of the way. I think it is much better than the risk involved with taking it out.

    All in all it found it a bit less difficult than I expected - As with all the work I have done on different Apple products: Slow and careful work and following the instructions - including all the comments - seems to be the best advice.

    Adam Griggs -

    I have a semi responsive trackpad and an unrecognized keyboard. Any suggestions?

    Daniel Lynn -

    CHECK the ZIF connector in Step 19 and 20. The Black plastic retaining bar MUST be in the “up/open” position to remove and reinstall the ribbon cable.

    Donald MacTavish -

    Daniel- remove and put back again the cable on the ZIF connector, making sure it is pushed all the way in before closing the retainer clip. May have a partially reinserted cable.

    drrobins -

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.

    Luke Schoen -

    This was the most difficult part for me.In frustration, I thought I had a bad cable so I bought two new ones and still was not successful.So I skipped the whole thing and bought an external wireless keyboard which I have been using till now.Recently, my LCD screen cracked and I am about to replace it. So, I now have another opportunity to open my laptop and try fixing this step again.This time I will read users comments before attempting another go.Please if anyone have additional useful tips for this step, kindly post a comment.I should be fixing my laptop in 2 weeks.Thanks!

    Ernest Kanu -

    One thing to know about the tape that you have to remove is that it has "arms” that wrap around the cable just beyond the connector. If you bend the cable toward you you can see these. Remove/bend them so that they are pointing ‘north” and then pull the sticker.

    Michael Gorman -

    The “flip up” tab was hard to see for me but once my 7yo confirmed it was up, I slowly moved the cable into the slot using my fingers (to avoid bending/breaking anything, thanks to comments I read), staying perpendicular. Once it was clearly in, I confirmed it was fully seated with a toothpick (a gentle tool for delicate parts). If worried, take zoomed in pictures straight from above, that way you will know what it should look like when reassembling.

    Marc -

    After completing this repair and breaking the zif socket while trying to make sure this cable was re-attached properly. I believe the battery replacement can be done without doing this step. I would just carefully bend the cable out of the way when it came time to prying the portion of the battery out that sits below this cable.


    I'm taking my Macbook into Apple to see if they'll replace the touchpad and cable now since I don't feel like messing with this anymore. My screwup may just push me into buying a new M2 Macbook Air... I'm thinking subconsciously my brain tricked me into sabotaging this repair attempt so that I'd just get a new computer, lol.

    Greg Burkhardt -

    Same experience as many. I didn't read the comments or the instructions well enough here and forgot to flip up the ZIF connector. Ended up just pulling the ribbon cable out which must have damaged it. After the battery replacement when I reassemble and turned my computer back on, the trackpad and keyboard were unresponsive. I bought a replacement (used) trackpad cable from iFixit, it came a few days later, I popped it in (the correct way!) and my keyboard and trackpad were back to working. So, don't forget the ZIF connector tab!!!!

    Kelly Archer -

    READ THE COMMENTS ON THIS ONE.

    Broke the ZIF connector :-(

    Should've seen this step properly and read the comments. I was on the right path but somehow thought needed to plug. out the casing of ZIF connector too and maybe just ripped out the cable wrongly. My bad and now will see what the Mac does without the ZIF connector flipper... or may just buy the new trackpad.

    houguy -

    Zip connector flip broke - now I only have a connection in rare occasions. Has anyone an easy hack like gluing the thing in place ore something 🥲?

    Matthias S. -

    The faulty description of Step 19 and 20 caused me to destroy my Trackpad. It appears to be completely unnecessary to unplug this cable from the trackpad, you could have simply bent it back. Reconnecting it with the battery in place is just about impossible because of the angle of the cable, and the fact that there is an adhesive on the trackpad cable directly behind the trackpad-side connector.

    Apart from the total unnecessity of this step, why did you not explain clearly that the lock of this flimsy piece of junk is on the rear side of the connector, unlike a normal ZIF? The photo is not good enough to tell from what side it has to be flipped up. This stupid description made me break off the plastic lid of the connector, and bend 4 of the upper pins on my trackpad. This forces me to waste 60€ for a new trackpad that I would not have needed if this had been described properly, and leaves the corresponding computer out of order for several days instead of one evening.

    Valentin -

    I damaged the cable or the connector. What should I do then?

    Pier Paolo Perotti -

    I too had problems with this step because the picture does not clearly show how a flipped up connector should look. The first picture in the series can be enlarged but the smaller pictures will not enlarge. I did not want to break the ZIFF ? (Socket) by forcing into a position it was not intended to be. I have everything back together but not at all sure it will work. The biggest issue I had with your kit instructions was there was no description on how all the cables connected back to the board.( Whether it snaps or slides etc.). I’m sure it’s not so much an issue if you do it all the time.

    Candice -

  20. 2teLgArBhIJcbWfP
    2teLgArBhIJcbWfP
    3FKbZJNL1BowW4uU

    • Puxe o cabo do trackpad em linha reta, afastando-o do soquete ZIF na placa de controle do trackpad.

    • Durante a remontagem, certifique-se de que a aba de retenção esteja na posição para cima, "destravada", antes de inserir o cabo no soquete.

    With all due respect, step # 19 and 20 pics shows the ZIF socket on the trackpad board, not the Mac logic board, I think...

    See step #17 which seems to be correct. There is an inconsistency in the guide.

    Just to be sure...

    Bart Van Dessel -

    This was the most difficult step for me. It was hard to locate the retaining tab on the ZIF connector and the trackpad cable had some adhesive on the bottom of it and it was difficult to remove from the socket. Be patient….

    Gary Bain -

    I skipped this two steps (19&20) , just bent the flat fable when taking the battery out.

    Aleš Smokvina -

    This does look the most frightening part of the process, that connector looks really flimsy. Is it ok to just bend it back and leave it connected as suggested?

    Jack Sukerman -

    This is the only step I skipped, as Gary Bain mentioned above there was adhesive which made it difficult to remove, and it’s probably the only step worth skipping.

    John Davis -

    Can you buy replacements for this trackpad control board? They dont seem to come with new trackpads.

    Rachel MacLeod -

    The ZIF retaining tab is a tiny black plastic bar. Pull the trackpad cable HORIZONTALLY out of the socket.

    Richard Johnson -

    This is correct! Pulled it to the side and it came out no problem

    Alexablue -

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.

    Luke Schoen -

    Unfortunately, i didn’t notice that there was a retaining tab, so i damaged my ZIF Connector. I ordered a new one from amazon. I followed the procedure and did it in the “correct” way. Anyway trackpad and keyboard won’t work. Can you help me?

    Andrea -

    I removed that cable and not sure that I put it back properly. The trackpad and keyboard are not working. I might need to order a new trackpad cable and try the process with the new, Can anyone help?

    Thank you

    Faliere Dieujuste -

    I broke the tiny plastic clamp on the ZIF socket and that, to my understanding, is why the ribbon cable is not connecting properly (so neither keypad nor keyboard are connected). I wonder if I can buy a replacement somewhere for that clamp or the socket as a whole.

    Ghassen -

    Hi Ghassen, I too just broke the plastic clamp on the ZIF socket. What did you do to repair it? I’m pulling my hair out looking for a solution!

    David O'Brien -

    "straight out" in this case is away from you and horizontal, not straight up! I tugged on the cable a bit harder than I'd like to admit before realizing my mistake, although no damage seems to have occurred.

    jheiss -

    Thank you for all the comments on the direction to pull this cable. Pull horizontally toward the battery. It slips out of the connector then you can pull it vertically to free. Mine had a little bit of sticky on the cable that held it to the battery.

    Steve -

    Removing this cable took a lot more effort than I thought it should. I removed it horizontally away from the front of the laptop. I was certain to pop up the plastic retaining clip to remove, then push it down to reinstall. For whatever reason I feel like I’m not getting the cable back in all the way. After reassembly my touchpad and keyboard do not work. I’m wondering if I damaged the cable or the small board with the zif socket…

    Greg Burkhardt -

    Same. Any idea how to resolve it? Any progress on your part?

    Jose Huerta -

    Same for me. Trackpad is not working anymore. What a pity…

    Katrin Klug -

    I had to replace the cable after my keyboard and trackpad would not work after replacing the battery, lucky they are available from iFixit

    Cameron Wheatley -

    So during re-assembly, my cable is not going in all the way. I think is causing the haptic feedback on the trackpad to stop working. Does anyone have any solution to this?

    Vysak Sasikumar -

    Success. I bought a replacement ribbon cable and followed ifixit instructions. The ribbon cable is too long as is stated. I worried that bending the cable would crimp it, causing the same malfunction as the original. What to do? I did bend it a little but the cable still had a bow in it. I decided to place a piece of plastic (guessing about 5 mm thick) under the cable which held the cable nicely to the right length, without crimping. Then taped to the battery. The computer back panel then screwed on with no issue and did not have a bulge such as to cause the computer to rock and layed flat on the bumper feet. The computer worked perfectly. Thank you “ifixit”

    ron bryanton -

    Does anyone know what the retaining tab does? I replaced my cable and used the tab to pull the connector into the socket, but the tab tore off a little bit. I'm guessing the tab is not for pulling on? What is it for then?

    Myrtille F -

  21. EK2eCTUnIEQYFDwi

    • Remova o único parafuso Torx T5 de 3,7 mm que fixa a placa da bateria à estrutura superior.

    If lost where could I find a replacement for this screw?

    Justin -

    Yes, where could I find a replacement for this screw?

    Ryan Borchert -

    Before continuing, draw around the outside of the existing battery with a pencil to make a template ready for when installing the new battery. It means when you get there, the new battery can be installed perfectly in place and you will not have space problems when trying to reinstall the speakers during reassembly.

    Dan -

    Fab thanks 👍🏽

    Rupesh Pabari -

    when installing new battery it is better to start with this step and secure the battery control board first with the screw. This is needed to align the battery plug with the jack on the mother board, then glue the rest of the battery back.

    Igor Kapitanker -

    Totally agree, this is critical. I stuck the battery down and the controller was was misaligned with this screw hole. I then unstuck the battery assembly, installed this screw first while keeping any of the adhesive from sticking and then laid the battery down. This should be called out in the reassembly instructions to make this more bulletproof for all users.

    gruntso -

    FYI this was a T4 on my system

    anonymous 5375 -

    When aligning the placement of the battery, on my second attempt, I used a sim card removal pin (a paper clip would suffice) to align the battery board hole with the screw hole underneath. Unfortunately on my first attempt I inadvertently stripped the threads a little. Luckily there was just enough threads to hold

    Charles Meitin -

  22. nsUUx62xleacGUtM

    • O removedor de adesivos líquido fornecido no kit de substituição de bateria da iFixit pode afetar o revestimento antirreflexo da tela do MacBook Pro.

    • Para proteger a tela, coloque uma folha de papel-alumínio entre a tela e o teclado e deixe-a ali enquanto trabalha.

    I was able to remove the batteries using the plastic ifixit card only, it requires you to work it back and forth but it can be done. However, for a few bucks I would suggest the heating pad. I was able to reuse my batteries (although not suggested).

    Dustin Steward -

    This should have been Step 1.

    Richard Johnson -

    I too managed with just heat (iOpener that had come with parts for another repair) and the plastic card. I decided to try with just heat because of concern about putting any fluid into the computer case. (There was a comment by someone about damaging a trackpad). Using the card and heat, I found it helped to start by inserting and advancing a pointed end of the card rather than an entire long-edge of the card. Then advancing the card, while also moving it in a back-and-forth motion, to essentially “cut through” the glue strips. One other point, that helped for later positioning the new battery so the the speakers fit without issue, was that with a sharp pencil I traced the outer edge of the old battery on the inside of the case. This left a nice aid for worry-free placement of the new battery.

    Jonathan Bradley -

    I used heat from a hair dryer to detach the adhesive. The bottom of the touch pad seems to be made from plastic so I didn’t want to use any hard solvents (acetone) to risk permanent damage to the track pad.

    Olivier Biot -

    I also used the hair drier and the cheap plastic spackling 2” knife and old credit card. No solvents. Once you detach the section of the battery you can use piece of the blue plastic that covers adhesive strips of on the new battery to prevent detached sections from sticking back .

    Igor Kapitanker -

  23. wYnpApcq5cVHkOpW
    wYnpApcq5cVHkOpW
    NcIOLahGlimKNjHD

    • Se você tiver um kit de bateria iFixit com removedor de adesivos líquido, é hora de prepará-lo.

    • Como alternativa, se estiver usando o método do iOpener aquecido, pule os três passos a seguir.

    • O removedor de adesivos da iFixit contém acetona, um irritante leve para a pele e os olhos.

    • Use protetor ocular ao manusear e aplicar o removedor de adesivos. (O protetor ocular está incluído em seu kit).

    • Não use lentes de contato sem protetor ocular.

    • Luvas de proteção também estão incluídas em seu kit. Se você estiver preocupado/a com a irritação da pele, calce as luvas agora.

    I used “isopropyl alcohol” instead of “acetone” and it dissolved the glue under the battery.

    I already had some “isopropyl alcohol” that I bought to make my own hand sanitizer.

    Luke Schoen -

    FYI, the adhesive remover is definitely acetone which will dissolve the gloves

    Michael Gorman -

  24. ZFKm4BycNJDuDFyZ
    ZFKm4BycNJDuDFyZ
    BBPmdtoJKFu5PjUr
    MWVpmIvuCwnECVJF

    • Retire a tampa de borracha preta do frasco do removedor de adesivos.

    • Gire para soltar ou remover a tampa do frasco antes de cortar a ponta do aplicador.

    • Com isso, o lacre do frasco se solta e a pressão se equilibra antes de você cortar a ponta do aplicador. Se pular esse passo, o removedor de adesivos poderá borrifar inesperadamente quando você cortar a ponta.

    • Com uma tesoura, corte a ponta lacrada do aplicador.

    • Um corte próximo à ponta fina proporciona um melhor controle, para que você possa aplicar o removedor de adesivos em pequenas quantidades.

    • Gire e feche a tampa do frasco seguramente antes de continuar o procedimento.

    just acetone (manicure remover) is ok.

    Jimmy Jeong -

    New kits come with different bottle than picutred. all clear with clear notch to cut on tip.

    Josh Hornby -

    The kit that I got had a clear bottle with a black top - the cover just unscrews, and the tip underneath already has a hole in it.

    Owen Edwards -

    The bottle you have to cut spills easily. Used the card to apply. Still a bit messy.

    adbro94@yahoo.no -

    I couldn't get any remover because iFixit doesn't ship outside the US, but I used nail polish remover and it worked.

    ちくわちくわ -

    コメントありがとうございます。ご指摘のように専用リムーバーは日本への発送はしていませんが、代用方法は除光液で適切です。また有益な情報などありましたらシェアください。

    Midori Doi -

    91% Isoproypl alcohol works well and will not damage electronics. Safer on plastic parts as well.

    T Bell -

  25. 4UHm1xTpygOUiton

    • Aplique algumas gotas do removedor de adesivos uniformemente sob a borda da célula direita externa da bateria.

    • Não é necessário usar muito. O pequeno frasco contém mais do que o dobro de solvente necessário para remover todas as células da bateria.

    • Aguarde de 2 a 3 minutos para que o removedor de adesivos líquido penetre sob a célula da bateria antes de prosseguir para o próximo passo.

    I just poured some “isopropyl alcohol” into a bowl, then cut a piece of plastic (since it bends easily) from some packaging, and then dipped the end of it in the bowl to coat it in the alcohol, then repeated the following process progressively every minute or so: I’d push it under each corner of the battery to apply the alcohol, then wait a while for it to penetrate the glue, and then used a combination of a “plastic card” (i.e. old credit card) the “spludger” tool to slowly lift the battery from the glue.

    Important note: I was removing an old battery that wouldn’t hold charge anymore, so I didn’t care about squishing it a bit with the '“spludger” (as long as I didn’t puncture it and cause battery fluid to leak!)

    Luke Schoen -

    Before continuing, draw around the outside of the existing battery with a pencil to make a template ready for when installing the new battery. It means when you get there, the new battery can be installed perfectly in place and you will not have space problems when trying to reinstall the speakers during reassembly. Things get snug and this tip helped me a lot.

    Dan -

    My battery was so swollen that it only required a bit of heat and card action to take it out.

    Marc -

    I had the same experience as Marc. My battery was also so swollen that I only needed to carefully pry underneath with a spudger from the side away from the trackpad to get it loose. I had several plastic cards on hand that I used “just in case” there was a problem.

    anasazi4st -

    As is mentioned, it is important to mark the position of the old battery.

    The acetone solvent will dissolve things like Sharpie ink, and even pencil lines. I ended up having to scribe some tiny lines into the case - be careful not to create shavings. (Use some canned air to blow any of those away.)

    Position is important because the speakers are tight fits at the lower left and right corners and if the new battery is not positioned correctly the speakers won't go back in during re-assembly.

    Sherman Oakes -

  26. Ey52lDUCkdWcuZVQ
    Ey52lDUCkdWcuZVQ
    ChS5gxrwCXW2W46K

    • Se não tiver um removedor de adesivos líquido, você usará um iOpener aquecido para aquecer e amolecer uma parte do adesivo que prende a bateria à estrutura superior e, em seguida, fazer alavanca cuidadosamente nessa área.

    • Use o iOpener aquecido para cobrir metade das células mais à direita da bateria.

    • Após cerca de um minuto, reaqueça o iOpener e mova-o para cobrir a outra metade das células mais à direita da bateria.

    I just aimed a hairdryer at the relevant part of the battery for a short while and felt it getting warmer (not the other circuitry), and made sure it was an appropriate distance so it wouldn’t exceed 100 degrees celsius (which is dangerous).

    Luke Schoen -

    DO NOT OVERHEAT the iOpener. Note that the replacement instructions here seem to imply just reheat and repeat every ~2 minutes. The iOpener packaging ALSO asserts just heat for 30 and go, every time. HOWEVER, on the BACK of the iOpener (never pictured), it explicitly says 30 seconds, then another 30 if and only if necessary and if the iOpener isn't hot to the touch, and then NO FURTHER warming for 10 mins. I'm guessing this is where a lot of the "2 hour" quote comes from, if you're expected to let the iOpener cool for 10 minutes for each of the 6 cells. That said, once I had mine going for 30 + 30 + (didn't read the fine print) 20 + 15, it was plenty hot to do the remainder of the cells in one go.

    Sean Kelly -

    I also used a hairdryer and when the battery was just below too hot to touch, I was able to pull the battery off without using tools. I started from the outside and moved towards the middle. I just pointed the hairdryer under the ouyside edge of each battery and waited until it got hot to the touch.

    J lawson -

  27. K1GfBCNfIMDKapE2
    K1GfBCNfIMDKapE2
    LIeSErpiKrDY3LJs
    VfL1ik1NfBwUZJYb

    • Empurre um cartão plástico entre a célula direita externa de bateria e a estrutura superior, cortando o adesivo entre ambas.

    • Durante todo esse procedimento, tome cuidado para não danificar nenhuma célula de bateria com suas ferramentas. Uma bateria de íons de lítio danificada pode vazar substâncias químicas perigosas e/ou pegar fogo. Use somente ferramentas de plástico.

    • Caso use o método do iOpener aquecido, se a bateria oferecer muita resistência, pare e aplique o iOpener para reaquecer a área em que está trabalhando.

    I suggest taping the batteries together on the top, this will keep them intact while you work the card back and forth. If you are very careful during these steps you can reuse your batter but make sure to inspect it Very well. If there is any damage whatsoever do not run the risk of leaking fluid to the rest of your computer.

    Dustin Steward -

    Could I suggest that the plastic card be filed at the business edge like a chisel to make it easier to slide under the battery breaking the glue seal. I did it to mine and made it just that bit easier to break that glue seal. I use the heat method. Otherwise it worked well.

    Ray Miller -

    With the help of some acetone a little syringe and a credit card, I found the whole battery removal part to be easier than I expected.

    Adam Griggs -

    I did not have a iFixIt kit (they were sold out). I used a hot/cold therapy pack instead of an iOpener, but found I didn’t need it. What worked really well for me was to gently work an old credit card in underneath, then slide a long wedge-shaped spudger between the credit card and battery cell and pry gently up. Not to much to avoid bending the cell, but working back and forth between wedging up with the spudger and shifting the credit card further in worked really well.

    Rob Gorbet -

    when using the iOpener, note that a full 60+ seconds of heating (divided over multiple 30 or less second nukes) will get it hot enough to melt the provided cards themselves if left in direct contact. Account for this in where you leave your cards between cells.

    Sean Kelly -

    I suggest to be really careful when prying on the two battery modules in the center. The trackpad and the haptic feedback engine are on the other side of the "wall" and very sensitive to force. Take your time and use the solvent sparingly, but use it.

    Flo -

  28. 2MCUeqWlTbl1VcxN
    2MCUeqWlTbl1VcxN
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    • Repita esse procedimento com a célula adjacente da bateria:

    • Aplique uma pequena quantidade de removedor de adesivos líquido sob a célula da bateria e aguarde de 2 a 3 minutos para que ele penetre e amoleça o adesivo.

    • Como alternativa, reaqueça essa área com o iOpener, se necessário.

    • Empurre um cartão de plástico entre a célula da bateria e a estrutura superior e, lentamente, levante a célula para separar todo o adesivo.

  29. IQ5DDJMtDQEtMKeS
    IQ5DDJMtDQEtMKeS
    OvanriKv2t6TgvBO
    QuBgTUpPjL2YUsPt

    • Deixe temporariamente o cartão plástico embaixo das duas células mais à direita da bateria, para evitar que elas voltem a aderir à estrutura superior.

    • Se estiver usando um iOpener, reaqueça-o e reaplique-o, desta vez nas células mais à esquerda da bateria.

    • Novamente, deixe o iOpener em cada posição por cerca de um minuto, reaquecendo entre elas, para aquecer cada metade das células mais à esquerda da bateria.

  30. GYjw3XlBjOOhPRWG
    GYjw3XlBjOOhPRWG
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    NKxvkjPaAIBRtG3H

    • Repita o procedimento acima para separar as duas células mais à esquerda da bateria da estrutura superior.

    • Lembre-se de aplicar uma pequena quantidade de removedor de adesivos em cada célula da bateria e aguardar de 2 a 3 minutos para que ele penetre e amoleça o adesivo.

    • Com um segundo cartão plástico, separe as duas células mais à esquerda da bateria da estrutura superior.

    The adhesive for my old battery was only in strips around the underneath so if you can get the outer edge loose you can GENTLY but firmly pull slowly upwards and prob get it off ok without too much digging. Use a hair dryer for 30 seconds or so and it’ll be just enough to break it loose. (If you don’t have a heat gun).

    Faslane -

  31. RktisKgYqLbgaGaX
    RktisKgYqLbgaGaX
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    24siABbq3mJfgaWt

    • Continue repetindo o procedimento de fazer alavanca.

    • Insira o cartão de plástico entre a segunda célula da bateria mais à esquerda e a estrutura superior para cortar o adesivo que une as duas células e levante a célula da estrutura.

    Again, The adhesive for my old battery was only in strips around the underneath so if you can get the outer edge loose you can GENTLY but firmly pull slowly upwards and prob get it off ok without too much digging. Use a hair dryer for 30 seconds or so and it’ll be just enough to break it loose. (If you don’t have a heat gun).

    Faslane -

  32. keIcTpWCBHK5JfvW
    keIcTpWCBHK5JfvW
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    FrvS2hIAOaEFeYHh

    • Deixe o segundo cartão no canto entre as duas células da esquerda.

    • Se estiver usando um iOpener, reaqueça-o e aplique-o nas células intermediárias da bateria.

    • Como antes, deixe o iOpener em cada posição por cerca de um minuto, reaquecendo entre elas, para aquecer cada metade das células intermediárias.

    • Nos seguintes passos, você pode usar um terceiro cartão ou o cartão do canto direito. O adesivo do canto direito deve estar seco/frio o suficiente para que as células possam ser facilmente puxadas para cima novamente, se necessário.

    I grabbed a roll of scotch tape for these steps; once a cell was separated and cool, I could shimmy a good long strip of tape, sticky-side up, under the cell to cover as much of the old adhesive as I could feel and better prevent readhesion.

    Sean Kelly -

  33. vhdVcXLDbjYVlleg
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    • Se estiver usando um removedor de adesivos líquido, aplique mais algumas gotas em cada uma das duas células centrais finais.

    • Pode ser útil elevar um dos lados do MacBook Pro alguns centímetros para que o removedor de adesivos flua na direção correta, sob as células da bateria. Você pode usar um livro resistente ou um bloco de espuma para apoiar um lado do MacBook Pro enquanto trabalha.

    • Aguarde de 2 a 3 minutos para que o removedor de adesivos penetre antes de continuar.

    • Com cuidado, dobre as células da bateria mais à direita para fora do caminho e insira um cartão de plástico sob a célula intermediária direita.

    • Empurre o cartão até a metade de seu comprimento para cortar o adesivo que prende a célula da bateria à estrutura.

    • Evite tocar na placa de controle do trackpad. Aponte o cartão para cima, em direção à placa lógica, onde está o adesivo.

    • Deixe o cartão no lugar para evitar que o adesivo volte a se selar.

    I think this part killed my trackpad…. I think it should be mentioned that adhesive remover can get into the trackpad cover plate.

    Gary Yuen -

    I did not bend my batteries nearly this much, it allowed me to reuse them but it takes patiences to get them free.

    Dustin Steward -

    Take a look at the trackpad replacement guide to get a sense of where the adhesive is:

    Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015

    ibash -

    To prevent re-adhering, I placed a bit of Scotch tape over the original adhesive locations.

    Richard Doss -

    You can see it in the photos, but they don't call it out: while the side cells are in their own smooth wells, the center cells are on a raised section to accommodate the trackpad. If you shimmy your cards in and they absolutely hard-stop, be aware you probably need to get the outer cells free enough to lift so your card can clear the bezel.

    Sean Kelly -

    I used one of my wife's icing spatula's (this one Small Spreader - Shop), and it worked really well on the middle 2 cells since it is long and slightly sharp and thin and pretty sturdy. I just took my time not to damage the cells and I was very happy with the results. Although, my wife was not happy that I made her spatula dirty and fully of adhesive but I just used a little IPA to remove the residue :).

    John B. -

    Je n'avais pas le kit iFixit, ni de hot pack. J'ai utilisé de l'alcool dénaturé à 96°. Avec patience, délicatesse et une palette de plastique de 5cm de large, j'y suis arrivée plus facilement que je le pensais.

    anne guillaume -

  34. 4GyJZdKYXYdLnLQB
    4GyJZdKYXYdLnLQB
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    o2PReSFVrnOcGHpM

    • Repita o mesmo procedimento para a última célula restante da bateria.

    • Mantendo as células externas fora do caminho, insira o cartão de plástico aproximadamente até a metade sob a célula intermediária esquerda da bateria, evitando a placa do trackpad.

  35. EpqNmfdV2pePy6JW
    EpqNmfdV2pePy6JW
    mUKQinAHsW1ZG4nI

    • Volte ao cartão abaixo da célula central direita e vire-o para separar a bateria inteira da estrutura superior.

    • A essa altura, você já deve ter cortado todo o adesivo que prende a bateria à estrutura superior, e ela deve sair facilmente.

    • Se não sair com facilidade, talvez seja necessário reaquecer o iOpener e aplicá-lo nas áreas com cola mais resistente e, em seguida, continuar cortando cuidadosamente o adesivo com os cartões plásticos.

    I found this to be more difficult than the edge sections. I had to reapply a few times the adhesive removal from both sides of the center sections before I was able to pry the battery. Take time and use the adhesive removal several times.

    Maxim Bulat -

    I dipped the edge of a stiff credit card (actually health card lol) into 91% isopropyl alcohol and slid that in from the sides..keep pressure while the alcohol works it’s way thru the adhesive..just be careful when it finally lets go..

    Adam -

    This was a great tip - it helped get the liquid on the difficult middle cells without flooding the screen. I also used floss to cut through the center adhesive strips.

    A B -

    Absolutely top tip.

    Didn't apply heat or adhesive in any place around the batteries. Just pour out small amount of adhesive on a plate and drag the egde of the plastic card through this solvent, (apply on both sides of the edge of the card). When you press the card under the battery you can feel the card sinking in under.

    Repeat "soaking" the plastic card frequently and attack the cell from different angles.

    Adhesive consumption is very low with this procedure and I guess I have enough fluid left for another 6-8 battery replacement.

    Egils -

    Thanks to Adam’s suggestion about sharpening the plastic card and using alcohol plus the heat gun I easily got to this point. Then I re attached the speakers before dry fitting the new battery.

    Peter Stoll -

    While you have the battery off, consider removing the T3 screws that hold the metal plate over the trackpad. That makes it much easier (and less dangerous for the trackpad) to clean the adhesive off. And while you have that off, consider removing the twelve T5 screws holding in the trackpad and cleaning it up a bit around the edges, and the edges of the case. Because that’s a slot, stuff gets in there. I was surprised how dirty mine was. Trackpad instructions here: Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015

    Rob Gorbet -

    At the last step reassembly there was a 1-2 mm gap between the cover and the body. Upon inspection I found that one of the new battery’s plastic bar had to be gently nudged under the aluminum « post ». At the ends of the plastic U shape, look for tiny flat protrusions, right next to the rubber bumpers, those should go under a recess near the screw posts (one can be seen on the left of the thumb on the image above).

    Marc -

  36. WCWRYyhHSsctPwT2
    WCWRYyhHSsctPwT2
    XHEVNGBvBGIfnPgy

    • Remova a bateria.

    • Antes de instalar a nova bateria, remova todo o adesivo antigo da estrutura do MacBook Pro.

    • Com um pouco de sorte, você pode puxar lentamente cada tira de adesivo com os dedos.

    • Caso contrário, molhe cada parte do adesivo com um pouco de removedor de adesivos por 2 a 3 minutos e, em seguida, raspe-o com uma palheta de abertura ou uma das outras ferramentas do seu kit. Isso pode exigir um pouco de trabalho, portanto seja paciente.

    • Limpe qualquer resíduo de removedor de adesivos e deixe o MacBook Pro secar ao ar livre por alguns minutos.

    • A bateria de reposição incluída em seu kit iFixit vem com adesivo pré-instalado. Teste cuidadosamente o encaixe e o alinhamento da bateria antes de retirar a película que cobre o adesivo e, em seguida, pressione cada célula firmemente no lugar. Se houver alguma película ou revestimento adicional que não estava na bateria original, remova-o agora.

    • Calibre a bateria instalada: carregue até 100% e deixe carregando-a por mais duas horas. Tire da tomada e use o aparelho normalmente até a bateria descarregar. Quando vir o aviso de bateria fraca, salve o trabalho e deixe o laptop ligado até ele entrar em modo espera (bateria fraca). Aguarde ao menos 5 horas e carregue o laptop ininterruptamente até 100%.

    • Se você notar algum comportamento incomum ou problemas após a instalação da nova bateria, talvez seja necessário redefinir o SMC do seu MacBook Pro.

    Remember that the speakers fit on either side of the battery. When placing the new battery, make sure to leave enough space for them.

    Cesario Uy -

    I wish they had put your comment in the guide itself. It took me a while to realize that the speaker won’t go in because the battery was off a bit towards the side of the computer. Fortunately the adhesive was not as strong as the original.

    Yulun Hsieh -

    good point, if you tuck the battery cell you can also firm up the speakers and then install the cell, just a tiny bit tricky since you have to tuck it under the speaker a bit.

    Faslane -

    Does anyone meet the problem that there is a slightly misalignment for the new battery?

    Lei Xu -

    Yes. I did encounter the same issue. Need to stretch a little to force it in.

    ramakrishnr -

    Yes, I had to adjust tiny guys at both ends when I was putting back the speakers.

    yon2maru -

    Why do we need to replace the battery for this? Can’t we put back the original one in place after we replaced the trackpad? If sohow to glue the original battery back?

    benjamin parpillon -

    There’s a fairly high risk of damage to the battery—they are not designed to be serviced or removed. Reinstalling the old battery may put your laptop at risk, and can even be a fire hazard.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    yeah DEFINITELY do NOT put the old battery in. Chances are it’s damaged and all bent up and you definitely do not want this back in a working machine. Spend the money and get a new replacement or you’ll regret it.

    Faslane -

    Merci beaucoup ! Très bien expliqué parfait !

    Valerie -

    My batteries were swollen pushing out on the keyboard and back of the case. The battery replacement was in my mind rather simple given the instructions. It was about taking time and logically laying removed items with screws. The battery removal was a little more completed…my approach was to put the opened case with batteries only exposed to the direct sunlight for 45 or so minutes. So taking time with plastic tools provided starting in the corner of the outermost batteries and working toward the center two was key. I put waxed paper between the batteries and the case to prevent reattachment. Removal from start to finish was about 20 minutes working slowly feeling and looking for the release of adhesive. I was concerned about putting liquid directly on the metal parts so I used acetone on a rag to clean remaining adhesive. Alignment of the batteries and circuit board was key to the installation. “Dry fit the batteries and board to see how they will go in. Then begin in the middle outward.

    Kevin -

    my keyboard is swollen also. did it damage the keyboard? did the swelling of the upper case go down after inserting new battery?

    thanks

    Bob

    bob bulliard -

    I found mineral turpentine on a piece of cloth removed the remaining glue without making too much of a mess.

    Ray Miller -

    My new battery now shows zero cycles but the age is still the original 4.5 years.

    My battery lasted to 730 cycles 4.5 years and 80% health, it was time to change it out as the battery was not lasting as long as I would like.

    Does resetting the SMC also reset the computer battery age?

    Ray Miller -

    It doesn't reset the ago, no.

    Faslane -

    my keyboard is swollen also. did it damage the keyboard? did the swelling of the upper case go down after inserting new battery?

    thanks

    Bob

    bob bulliard -

    I had bulging both on the top and bottom of the case. It all went away with the new batteries and everything fit perfectly just like brand new when I was all done. So the case bulging was not permanent.

    jklarr -

    Friendly warning: Make sure the adhesive remover evaporates before connecting the new battery!

    I successfully changed the battery in my 2015 MacBook Pro, everything powered on just fine, then I put it in my neoprene sleeve. The next morning I noticed some of the adhesive remover on my keyboard. I wiped it off, powered it on and then it suddenly shut down. After a couple more tries I could no longer get it to power on. It was dead. Took it to a repair shop and they concluded it was most likely liquid damage to the logic board. Total bummer. I have sense learned that the adhesive remover itself is not conductive, but it can dissolve something like glue, and then become conductive. The adhesive remover also cools as it evaporates which attracts moisture. So please make sure your adhesive remover evaporates completely before connecting your new battery.

    Jonathan Flower -

    I did the SMC reset but still nothing. Is not charging at all.

    nasho007 -

    Tips for alignment:

    1. Do not remove the plastic covering the adhesive and then try to align the battery. Leave the plastic on and remove one at a time after the battery is aligned.

    2. Use masking tape to hold the battery cells together while aligning, otherwise they flop around a lot.

    3. Put your speakers next to the battery cells (before removing plastic on adhesive) to ensure you’re leaving enough room.

    4. Make sure your battery connector is well aligned too.

    ibash -

    I’d recommend once new battery is placed and NOT stuck down, to connect the power and charger to make sure it charges up. I got a bad “new” battery and had to do a second removal and replace….ugh.

    Faslane -

    This was a great tip. I just put the replacement battery in slightly and connected it to the battery connector, then opened the laptop (with the laptop upside down since I didn’t bother putting the bottom cover back on) and plugged in the power cable, then waited for it to load until it showed the battery power level, and then checked that when I disconnected the power cable that the laptop still stayed on using the new battery

    Luke Schoen -

    I actually also, installed the speakers back before adhering new battery down, it was a pretty tight fit. Also one speaker on each side has a smaller screw than the other 2 so be aware to get them back in the correct spot. I also had one of the long screws that wouldn’t fit in the spot so I switched them, so you might be careful of that too…not sure why but it wouldn’t thread in….weird.

    Faslane -

    In fact I think each of the three speaker screws are of a different length.

    Adam Griggs -

    one more thing, if you install the speakers first (totally do-able) you’ll take off the adhesive on the outer most cell on each side first and you’ll approach it from the top and tuck it under the very edge of speaker…after that’s done press down when happy with alignment.

    Faslane -

    In conjuction with the owner of the MacBook, we decided not to stick the new battery down, specially because it is used 99% of the time on a stand and connected to a monitor. Will repost if this seems to give any issue.

    Adam Griggs -

    Thanks for this excellent kit and the detailed instruction guide!

    Michael Lorenz -

    Once the battery is removed and you want to glue the new one, make sure that you leave enough room for the speakers. Honestly the battery change was far easier that what I thought, I think everyone is capable of doing it. Great tutorial by the way, thank you for the work !

    Thomas Alliot -

    I am still very puzzled by the instructions to remove the speakers! Is it necessary to remove them both or not? Sorry if I’m being a bit dense!

    iwm4 -

    I can’t say for sure it’s absolutely necessary, but I’m looking inside one right now and, from a practical standpoint, the speakers would make it extremely difficult to work around. It would be much harder to get the glue dissolver under the ends of the battery and to pry underneath them to lift them. Removing the speakers is rather simple, so just do it.

    Mike Rosenberg -

    Hi. After a couple of months installed the new battery is loose, seems like is “unglued”… Does anybody have an idea what could I use to replace the glue?

    Thanks!

    Gustavo Lo Valvo -

    Hi there, I was so surprised at how delicate everything seemed, never attempted anything like it before! My old battery would hold any charge at all and had swollen so much it warped the casing a little. After replacing the battery my mac turns on but still doesn’t hold any charge. I reset the SMC but it hasn’t worked, not sure what to do next, any advise?

    Emma Read -

    To make it clear: Really check if battery plug and socket fit before you feel comfortable to press down the cells on the glue. I had to tear the connector pretty much on one side.

    Daniel Brehm -

    I would recommend doing the next step where you take the cover off of the trackpad before you install the battery. I did and found a bunch of the adhesive remover (there is nearly zero space between the cover plate and touchpad, meaning the remover/acetone easily seeps in there, but air does not get in so the acetone remains. Soft compressed air also works well to dry the remover. Ok, to be cautious, probably steps 37-40. Being able to inspect/get some air in there may save you.

    Michael Gorman -

    I just finished the battery replacement. I did not have to remove either of the speakers. I tried using the iOpener (and a hair dryer) but it just wasn’t hot enough. It’s like the glue was super-cured from the heat of the computer. I put a layer of foil and a layer of paper towel before I tried using the acetone. I found that just a tiny amount did the trick after a couple of minutes to soak in. As i pried up the edge I added a couple more drops and was able to free the old battery. The replacement fit perfectly. The battery is calibrating now.

    Will -

    Replaced the battery but now every time I power her on, she immediately shuts off again. What would be the cause of this?

    Alfie Akers -

    Eine super Anleitung. Damit war der Akkutausch problemlos möglich und hat 70 Minuten gedauert (bei langsamer/sorgfältiger Arbeit).

    Um Beschädigungen durch den Klebstoffentferner zu vermeiden, habe ich 3 alte Plastik- Scheckkarten langsam und vorsichtig unter die alten Akkus geschoben und so die Klebeverbindung gelöst (1 x von links, 1 x von rechts und 1 x mittig). Dann ließ sich das gesamte Paket herausziehen. Das alte Akkupaket habe ich wie ein rohes Ei behandelt, da es sehr prall aufgebläht und somit absolut brandgefährlich war. Es bereitet mir noch immer ein mulmiges Gefühl, eine solche Brandbombe auf meinem Schreibtisch gehabt zu haben.

    Der Ersatzakku passte perfekt ins Gehäuse, nachdem ich alle Klebestreifen-Reste entfernt hatte.

    Mit dieser Anleitung kann nahezu jeder den Austausch vornehmen - allerdings: genügend Zeit und Ruhe einplanen! Alle entfernten Schrauben unbedingt genau positioniert lagern. Dann geht’s im Zusammenbau wirklich flott.

    Mein MacBook Pro läuft nun wieder problemlos.

    Johannes Martin -

    MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Early 2015)

    Keyboard and trackpad were unresponsive after new batter install. As instructed in step 19 I reset both connections. Still no battery or keyboard. Ordered new trackpad cable. Still no working keyboard /trackpad. In an attempt to unseat reseat everything I then did the keyboard cable but no go. Second time I did keyboard the ZIF socket retainer popped loose. Tried to seat cable as carefully as possible and then covered with electrical tape.

    I should mention that keyboard backlight, power button function properly. Will re-run tests, resets, etc.

    Is there any way to fix the keyboard ZIF socket and/or remediate this?

    kevin -

    I replaced the battery and it seemed to run good. Now every time I restart it shows the apple logo and then goes black again. If I push the power button for the whole boot up process it starts to work but powers down soon after. The same is the case when I reinstall the old battery and when I start up only with the charger and no battery. Any thoughts?

    johanneshasselbach -

    In the few battery replacements I’ve done, in addition to making sure the battery connector is aligned properly the single screw needs to be aligned to start with. I’ve found that the rubber feet tend to be too high (the 2 in the middle of the computer). I believe it’s more the long tail on the underside of the rubber foot that prevents the bottom case from seating properly. As well the plastic around the other 2 feet (near the front of the computer) need to be flexed somewhat to help with bottom case alignment and seating…

    themacdoctor -

    I skipped the steps using the liquid glue solver, and therefore also left out the removal of additional parts, so made it quite “simple” at the end. I was going through steps 1-7, 17&18, 21, and then from 26 onwards to the end. For 26, I used the sun to heat up the old batteries, after it it was quite easy to remove them with a creditcard. Thanks for all the details!

    TTony5 -

    Hat 3 Tage funktioniert 🙄 Nun Startet er nicht mehr

    habe gemäß der Anleitung den Akku gewechselt, hat alles super easy geklappt.

    Werkzeug und Akku bei ifixit bestellt.

    Das MacBook hat danach 3 Tage funktioniert, hat geladen, entladen alles Prima.

    Dann lief er bis der Akku Leer war und seit dem startet das Gerät nicht mehr.

    Auch ein SMC oder NVRAM Reset helfen nicht.

    Das Ladesymbol am Ladekabel leuchtet, aber auch nach einer Nacht immernoch nicht grün.

    Wenn ich die besagten Tastenkombinationen drücke, ist beim SMC Reset zu erkennen das die Ladeleuchte danach für ca. 2 Sekunden grün wird.

    Hat jemand eine Idee ?

    Grillke -

    This was a piece of cake, thanks to all the comments, and to my 7yo who taped and color-coded of all the screws on a sheet! I used very little heat probably because the batteries were very swollen. I used the acetone (sold with the kit) only to remove the glue.

    Marc -

    I used alcohol prep pad with 70% alcohol to remove old battery adhesive from the laptop.

    Igor Kapitanker -

    👆 this! works better than the acetone.

    J. Heasly -

    If you need to transfer the rubber spacers to the plastic frame of the new battery (because you got a cheap one that didn't come with any), take note that they come in 2 slightly different heights.

    The shorter ones go towards the front edge, the higher ones to the center of the MacBook.

    You can remove them by pushing them through from the bottom of the old frame with your screwdriver. Getting them into the new battery frame requires some fiddling. Try to push them in from the top while trying to get the wide part through the hole with a toothpick.

    Markus -

    Everything seemed to go very well, except my keyboard doesnt work now. Track pad does. Any thoughts or suggestions? HELP!

    darrylsj2 -

    Same problem

    Vaso -

    Just replaced the battery on my wife's early 2015 13" MacBook Pro that I handed down to her when I bought my M1 MacBook Pro from my doctoral program. I did my entire master's program with the 2015 and it has been a beast. She working on her master's with the machine now and the only thing that has slowed it down has been the battery. I'm grateful that iFixit offers these kits and guides. I was able to replace the battery in no time at all so the 2015 will keep on trucking!

    Jeff Call -

    Neither my trackpad, screen or keyboard work after this . I followed all the instructions carefully. My laptop is completely ruined, I would avoid this product at all costs !!!!

    Baylor Brangers -

    Just completed the change of battery on MBPro13 early 2015. Got the kit which was a god send, made everything much more straightforward. Took my time and no problems at all apart from shuffling of speakers and battery. Not sure why I waited over a year to do this! Bloated battery and keyboard solved! Started up great and now calibrating. Thanks!

    Siobhan Keleher -

    Everything went smoothly BUT

    Align the new battery connector BEFORE sticking it in position!!

    Took more than an hour with the cleaning of the tape.

    Also the napp for the track pad is a little difficult to plug back in!

    Great kit 👍🏻

    brice Dellsperger -

    I did everything according to instructions - and it worked perfect! Thank you for this clear and detailed instructions!

    Georg Nyman

    Georg Nikolaus Nyman -

    Thanks this went great! Even as the difficulty indicates hard I didn't end up cussing once! :)

    mmmosher -

    Replaced the battery yesterday—everything works fine now. I found it convenient to slide a card under the battery with some force, then apply a few drops of solvent directly onto the card. This way, the solvent flows under the battery using capillary action and gravity, helping to dissolve the adhesive.

    The whole process took about 2 hours, mostly because of the many different screws (I kept them sorted by part) and the small connectors. Instruction is clear, just do it step by step carefully.

    Stan -

    Damaged trackpad cable and needed to order a new one. Just cost 10€, so not a big deal. If your keyboard and trackpad won’t work after the replacement of the battery, get a new trackpad cable. Cheers

    Rudolf Moos -

    Guide worked! The adhesive dissolver was so-so and I ended up putting more elbow grease and time in to getting those batteries unstuck than I expected.

    I had a scare with the keyboard and track pad not working but it was fixed with me putting that flap down where the track pad cable ribbon slots in.

    Also, I agree with others that the battery doesn't quite align properly, but you can twist it slightly and it works. Personally, I plugged the battery in before taking the adhesive cover off and also took the rubber feet off the center frame.

    Jay Shead -

    Trabajo realizado y cambiada la batería con éxito, la guía ha sido más que útil.

    Sólo añadiría un punto aclaratorio final, al conectar la nueva batería.

    "Antes de conectar la batería a la placa lógica despegar el protector de plástico del conector, esto ayudará a alinear perfectamente el conector con la placa lógica, una vez unido el conector volver a pegar el protector."

    Agustín -

    It will be easier to align the battery connector into the slot if you free up the adhesive tab from the connector.

    The same adhesive tab on my new ifixit battery pack had a piece of foam on top, probably to ensure enough pressure on the battery connector when it is seated in the slot and the lower case is mounted.

    This piece of foam built up a distance under the lower case and will prevent one of the plastic clip inside the lower case to fully catch into its seat so I removed this piece of foam.

    Egils -

    My repair kit came with a colored plastic sheet, with a removable film, in the shape of the battery . I have not seen any reference to this sheet. What are you suppose to do with it

    Candice -

Conclusão

Compare a sua nova peça de reposição com a peça original — pode ser que você precise transferir componentes remanescentes ou remover suportes adesivos da nova peça antes de instalá-la. Por exemplo, algumas baterias de reposição podem ter pequenas pontas de borracha nos quatro cantos da estrutura central que você precisará cortar com cuidado para que a bateria se encaixe corretamente.

Para a remontagem de seu dispositivo, siga os passos acima na ordem inversa.

Leve o seu lixo eletrônico para um ponto de recolha ou uma recicladora certificada.

O reparo não está indo conforme o planejado? Tente soluções de problemas básicas, ou peça ajuda no nosso fórum de Respostas.

Autor(a)

Andrew Optimus Goldheart

Membro desde: 17/10/09

513641 Reputação

183 comentários

is it possible to use MBP early 2015's battery on a late 2013 model?

gianluca pertosa -

No, they're different parts.

fastasleep -

I wonder the same.

Amazon https://www.amazon.de/EGOWAY-A1493-A1582... claims to work for

Compatible with Laptop Models: Mac Book Pro 11.1 13" Retina A1502 ME864xx/A / ME865xx/A/ ME866xx/A - (Late 2013 Version) Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i5" 2.4 Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i5" 2.6 Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i7" 2.8 MGX72xx/A / MGX82xx/A / MGX92xx/A - (Mid 2014 Version) Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i5" 2.4 Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i5" 2.6 Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i7" 2.8 Compatible with Laptop Models: Mac Book Pro 12.1 13" Retina A1502 MF839xx/A / MF840xx/A/ MF841xx/A/ MF843xx/A - (Early 2015 Version) Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i5" 2.7 Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i5" 2.9 Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i7" 3.1

Martin -

Thanks to this guide I saved my broken MacBook Pro from a coffee spill that killed the battery. It cost me about 30% compared to what it would have cost to have the battery changed at an Apple authorized repair center. It wasn't easy to do, but that just made it all the more satisfying.

One comment: the new battery pack I bought came attached to a thin film which had to be removed. I unfortunately tore off some of the strips of glue attached to the back of the battery cells, before getting the hang of it. No big deal. But if you have to do the same thing: peel slowly.

Fredrik -

After i replace the battery, the new battery is outofsync with osx battery indicator. When the indicator hit the 30% mark the macbook just shutdown completly. How do i syncroniz the new battery with osx?

The tutorial i saw only, tell you to fully charged the battery and let it depleet until the warning message pop up that your battery is low and your mac go into sleep mod. Problem my mac cant go into sleep mod because it thinks that it has 30% left of juice.

Is there any method to change the sleep setting or to force a recalibration?

enis alijagic -

I would download an application called coconut battery from here: http://www.coconut-flavour.com/coconutba...

This will indicate your battery's current health (I am not sure how accurate it is or how it measures the milliamps/hour) which might help you determine when you need to recharge it. I don't know what else you could do but I'd check the battery's health before anything since it might be causing the problem if it is faulty.

Alex Someone -

You can try resetting the SMC controller. I had the issue of run away fans and no battery detected, but after a quick reset of the SMC all working correctly.

The process is to turn of the MacBook completely, press and hold: SHIFT, CTRL, ALT and POWER for three-five seconds, then just reboot and see if that helps.

Works for lots of minor issues with clock, sleeping and battery issues.

Jim Whitehead -

Brilliant guide, worked a treat.

Was tricky to remove the battery even with iOpener but carefully persevered. Took around 1hr 15 in total.

Thanks so much, this saved my girlfriend a lot of money!

Ben Saunders -

How strong is the adhesive on the iFixit replacement battery, compared to the Apple OEM adhesive? Are we looking at a similar painful extraction process if/when we pull the replacement battery?

For that matter, is an Apple-esque strong adhesive actually necessary in this application? Double-sided tape is usually weaker; it might be a little thinner than the adhesive layer, and certainly far more user serviceable. Would tape be sufficient to hold the battery in place? Once you've got the bottom case screwed back on, the battery is immobilized anyway.

adlerpe -

I really want to know the answer to this one

frugalpov -

It's still going to be fairly painful to remove. The battery needs to be very well secured—you don't want a soft-shell lithium ion battery coming loose and moving around inside the laptop. Even a little bit of movement could be dangerous.

Jeff Suovanen -

The adhesive on my A1502 unit may as well have been epoxy! It took forever to get the segments separated, and several times I had to apply enough leverage that I thought I might break the battery or bend the case. Getting the dissolver in works, but you really need to make sure it actually reaches the adhesive through the cracks, so it's dabbing and levering, repeatedly... I used another vendor's battery replacement (CSEXCEL), and that one's adhesive was much much weaker.

Tom Hernandez -

As far as how secure the new battery needs to be, that got me wondering too. My guess is that it is such a tight fit - on all sides and surfaces! - that it would be fine. The one potential issue I see is the battery moving too close to the KBD cable's ZIF socket on the logic board and adding pressure to the connected cable end. You'd have to drop it or bump it pretty hard for such movement (with adhesive essentially failing to allow that movement), but if kbd fails after such a whack that would be the first culprit to look at.

Tom Hernandez -

Saved me fortune. I was using the laptop for more than year as a desktop. The new battery helped me bring the macbook back to life.

Dipak Patil -

Hi Dipak,

Are you from India? I try to Oder the Mac battery but the product can’t be shipped to India. Is there any other website that I can order the battery?

Tsering Dhondup -

Thanks for the guide! It helped me to save my MacBook from a coffee spill.

Pan Fantomas -

Apple Canada quoted me ~300$ for battery + keyboard replacement though acknowledged that the battery had died prematurely (1.5 years since the date of purchase). When I opened the case two out of six sections were swollen. I ordered from ifixit their battery and the tools and with rate conversion + delivery to the border + taxes at the border it came to 180$. After ~2 hours I have 100% healthy battery installed in my macbook pro and it saved me 120$.

Maxim Bulat -

This kit is a lifesaver. Apple was going to charge me over $800 to repair my battery because it required “more labor” due to the retina display. It took my husband less than an hour to completely replace my battery with this kit.

Kaitlin Pruitt -

Totally doable, took about 15 minutes to unscrew screws and carefully unplug cables. The only time consuming part was the 2-3 minute solvent and wait for each of the 6 cells of the pack. I was intimidate by the difficulty rating but it’s not that bad. Local Apple certified repair shop wanted $350.

Andrew Lamoureux -

It was a lot easier than I thought. I used a wheat cushion we had at home to remove the battery and it took less than ten minutes to remove the old battery.

Peter Olsson -

Actually did this in a different way. Easy 10 minute job ! get a 50mm so called "Japanese putty knife" which usually comes is a set of 3-4 with various widths. Cost about 3 euro and available at any paint shop. They are basically thin METAL versions of the Ifixit plastic card. BUT it can be used differently. Rub the back end over som 80 grit sandpaper to make it sharp. Not too sharp, more like a blunt knife. Now get your girlfriends (or boyfriends :-) ) hair dryer and heat the metal up a bit. Again, not too hot. Then insert it under the first battery and apply some pressure while wiggling it around a bit. The warm tip will easily cut through the glue. Repeat the heating- cutting cycle a few times until all cells are removed. It took me all of 10 minutes to do. I needed to replace te keyboard and I could actually still re-use the battery pack ! Enjoy

Eric Vuurman -

Good method, just make sure you don’t pierce the battery cells.

Charlie Nancarrow -

I have repaired many MBP’s in the past. After fixing this one, my keyboard no longer works. I re-read the steps to ensure I was not missing a keyboard connection anywhere but none was to be found. Trackpad works great and there isn’t a single drop of adhesive liquid that was over used or pour over onto. Any ideas?

mrrobertbuss -

Try replacing the trackpad cable (Step 18), which also connects the keyboard.

Katherine Williams -

Thank you very much.

I order this kit and got it deliver to Colombia (South America). Even with shipping and taxes, it cost me less than half of what an Apple Authorised Service Provider was charging me.

Instructions are clear and complete.

Just do it with patience and all will be fine.

Federico Jaramillo Martínez -

Everything is working perfectly, very detailed steps, perfect explanations! Thank you for this beautiful guide, it was such a pleasure to complete each step!

Bogdan Cateriniuc -

Just completed this. Was much easier and quicker than I thought. Apple wanted 700 dollars to “fix” coffee spilled on my laptop. Couldn’t just replace the battery, had to do this and that and blah blah blah for 700 dollars. Ran a diagnostics test and noticed only my battery was kaput. Bought the kit here through iFixit and this was my first computer job, ever. Not bad at all and typing on that very computer as we speak. Thanks for the awesome kit and for this awesome guide!

b_rg_r -

@b_rg_r Congrats! Be sure to look over the logic board carefully if you haven’t done so yet—any lingering spills or corrosion can be cleaned with a soft toothbrush and >90% isopropyl alcohol. More detailed instructions are here. Liquid damage can be tricky and will sometimes behave normally for a while until the corrosion builds up, and then things suddenly go sideways, so check carefully! Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

The procedures work like a charm.

Thanks for the comprehensive guidelines.

Note: Make sure to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector. I forgot in the first try an my trackpad and keyboard was not working. :D

Jagajith Monappan Kalarickal -

:) I did not flip a tab as well - but after some investigation, I have found my mistake. Now keyboard and trackpad are working. And the battery is now much, much thinner. Thanks IFixIt

Piotr Kubicki -

Das hat super geklappt ,ich bin sehr zufrieden.

Guido Lucas -

Hello! my children spill coconut oil on my MacBook pro and everything work normally but when I removed the battery I drill one cell of the battery. I just have an interesting question: is it possible to dissociate the perfored cell to the others and continue to use the same battery ?

tex -

A damaged battery is potentially dangerous and shouldn’t be used. Liquid damage alone is often enough to make it unsafe; with a puncture, it’s a no-brainer. Get a new battery. If you’re not comfortable doing it yourself, find a repair shop that can replace it for you. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

THANKS to ifixit!!! Works perfectly!!! The battery as well as the description!

Tobias Ehlers -

I just finished replacing the battery. The guide was just perfect and the machine lives!

ershler -

I buy battery kit. I follow guide. My computer now has 103% state of health and an extra 3 hours of run time. Perfect.

I’m not sure I would call this guide difficult - don’t let this put you off. If you follow all the steps and go carefully with the adhesive remover (and don’t prod too forcefully with those cards) it should all go smoothly. Much easier than things like replacing iPhone home buttons where there are lots of ways you can make a mess. Great work iFixit for the guide and a very high quality replacement battery. €100 saved.

Alex -

Merci pour ce guide très très utile ! Premièrement Attention positionnement de la nouvelle batterie ++ voir plus bas !

L’opération est délicate mais largement faisable même pour un débutant sans expérience d’électronique !

Bien préparer le travail, lire le tutoriel et savoir toutes les étapes est essentiel ! S’organiser en terme de place, d’outils, lumière, perturbation extérieure est aussi important pour pas se faire dépasser par les événements !

J’aimerais aussi dire que au début on n’ose pas forcer pour déconnecter certains câbles mais c’est bien car en fait cela vient relativement facilement si on tire dans le bon sens ! Certains sont plus dur que d’autre mais on comprend vite comment on peut forcer ou pas.

La nouvelle batterie … faites attention a son positionnement +++ . Pour mon expérience avant de la coller j’ai voulu tester la batterie avec les haut parleurs et vérifier si tout se positionnaient correctement ! Après avoir mis des marques au crayon de bois j’ai pu continuer sereinement.

Encore Merci :) !

marot -

Thanx for the tutorial but was a trackpad issue macbook pro 2015 i changed it put back the battery the laptop is working very fine 300 cycles of battery BUT I GET SERVICE BATTERY when i click the battery icon how do i get rid of it

allen rwegasila -

The battery in this laptop should never be re-used after being removed—it’s easily damaged and becomes a potential fire hazard. Replace the battery ASAP.

Jeff Suovanen -

This guide was fantastic and helped me plan and execute the task. I did everything as instructed except for removing the trackpad cable in step 20. I wasn’t sure how the ZIF cable attached and didn’t want to risk it. The cable was only marginally in the way and didn’t affect the install. I’m performing the calibration now and we’ll see how long the battery holds up… at least I’m confident that the install was perfect. It is also helpful when the back is off to take a peek around and clean up any dust balls, gunk, etc.

B P -

Thanks for this guide it is great! But after replacing the battery trackpad is dead. Any idea? should i replace cable?

Tomaz Utrosa -

Same here, just replaced the battery tonight precisely following the ifixit guide and the trackpad is not functioning. What is the solution?

Brian Crink -

Double-check everything in Steps 17-20. Make sure the sockets are clean and the cable is fully seated at both ends, and that there’s no damage to the cable itself.

Jeff Suovanen -

@jeffsu I rechecked and reconnected several times. Checked sockets, replaced the ribbon cable and I/O board cable. Installed the battery at 35%, it is not holding charge and the MacBook remains at 1% and dies immediately if unplugged. Reconnected the battery and no difference. At login screen Bluetooth mouse and keyboard don’t work but at the disk password login screen the Bluetooth devices work. Macbook’s Trackpad and keyboard still don’t work. What is the solution?

Brian Crink -

Sounds like your machine has multiple issues; this is too much to troubleshoot in the guide comments section. Try posting over in the Answers forum. There are lots of posts on the keyboard/trackpad issue already if you’re looking for ideas. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Super Reparaturanleitung mit dem EU123054-5 MacBook Pro 13" Retina (Early 2015) Battery Options: Fix Kit hat das ohne Problme funktioniert.

Dauer etwa 1,5 Std. mit allen Reinigungsarbeiten (Klebereste entfernen) und Wartezeit zum ablüften. Für 110€ gegenüber 230-250€ ist das eine tolle Lösung für einen neuen Accu.

Vielen Dank an Andrew Optimus Goldheart und den 6 anderen Mitwirkenden. Besonderen Dank an Annika Faelker für die super Übersetzung.

Schmitt -

Replaced a very puffed battery using this guide, went just fine using adhesive remover.

It was a bit easier than I assumed, but dealing with that glue is far more irritating than I thought it would be too.

Steve -

Bravo ! Super “Pas à pas”. L’opération s’est déroulée nickel. Mon conseil :

lire intégralement le “Pas à pas” avant d’attaquer. Préparer son matériel, être ordonner et surtout prendre son temps ….

Bruno Villers -

Easy replacement, as long as you are following the instructions. From start to finish: ONE HOUR. I did not use any chemicals to dislodge the old battery — instead I used a hair dryer (set to medium) to apply heat to the old battery. The new battery went in just fine, and, in a few minutes, the laptop was happy again. Thank you, iFixit. Good stuff!

Serge N -

The batteries in my laptop were so puffed that the laptop was bending and the top wouldn’t close properly anymore. So, when OS X says that your batteries need to be serviced, it means it.

That being said, this is *NOT* an easy repair. To start, I cracked the fragile corners on the battery. They are marked on the cellophane covering the battery, but I didn’t notice until *after* I had already cracked them. Sigh. Bought a new battery.

For me, the biggest issue was getting the new batteries in place properly. I had to lift and reposition the batteries with very sticky adhesive several times in order to get the position correct and have enough clearance for the speakers. Some advice/pictures/video on how to put the batteries back in with that sticky adhesive back would help tremendously.

Thanks for the guide and kit. I successfully installed a new battery, but I think I’ll leave this up to folks who do these kinds of battery repairs as a business next time.

Andrew L. -

It is mandatory to check the Age of the new Batterie, the Batterie should not older than on or two Month, from the current Date you will change it.

Also you don’t need a App to check the Batterie, Simply go to The Apple symbol , hit About this Mac, hit System Information, go to Hardware, and hit Power supply , you Batterie Production year/month how many charge cycles and so and so

esg2 -

It is maybe cheaper to remove the Batterie at your own, but the solvent can destroy a lot of the inner stuff of your MacBook when come into Places it should not go.and there is a high Risk to damage some stuff on the MotherBoard . And there is one Important thing you have to consider, no Garantie if something goes wrong you are on yourself. So saving 120$ dollar is no Option if you destroy your Motherboard . I’d rather pay the 350$ for the Change even I am qualified enough to do it myself, and there is also in the case the new Batterie is to old I can go Back and let them Change it and this time for free. Li-Po Batteries aging also when not used.

esg2 -

SENSATIONELL! Superschnelle Lieferung meines Ersatzakkus. Akku genau nach Anleitung eingebaut, alles funktioniert. Ersatzakkus + Werkzeug + Anleitung = PERFEKT.

Oliver Schmucker -

Thank you very much, my battery was swollen and I got an outrageous quote from Apple Authorized dealer for the battery replacement. did it myself and saved over 60% of the cost.

Thank you once again. it took me about 1.5 hours to complete, I didn’t use the solvent, i used I-remover and the battery removed in about 10 minutes.

Adewale Soetan -

I replaced my broken battery today, began charging but it stalled at 51% (I don’t know where it started). It says that the battery condition is at the ‘Replace Now’ stage.

I’m not even sure where to begin troubleshooting this.

Nathan Bryant -

My battery stills in 1% and says battery condition “replace now”, did the SMC reset and remains with the same problem, someone help!!

Santiago García -

This was much easier than than expected, the adhesive remover (which I think is just acetone) worked really well. I was worried that the cause of the problem was the battery charging controller and the the swelling would just return, but did not realize that the controller comes with the battery, so I am less concerned now. I was also concerned that the swelling, which caused the laptop not to sit properly on a desk, and the cover to fully close would still remain after replacing the battery, but it seems like this was all due to the swollen battery and once replaced everything seems fine (sits flat and cover fully closes again)

John Davis -

If I change the battery on a MacBook Pro running Catalina, will it still work or is there a mechanism Apple build in Catalina so it won’t accept the battery as its own and therefore prohibt to run?

Hannes -

Not that I can tell. Mine (running Catalina) booted up just fine after swapping the battery.

John Robison -

Hi guys,

great kit and great instructional video. I have successfully replaced my old battery with the new one. However, even after 3 SMC resets the batteries is not being recognised and it doesn’t charge.

what might be the cause and the solution? Thank you

Edward -

same problem, my battery stills in1% “replace battery”

Santiago García -

What’s the difference to the late 2014 battery?

IF123-054-5 A1582 for A1502 Early 2015 (6560 mAh) vs.

IF123-053 A1493 for A1502 Mid 2014 (6330 mAh)

I’m afraid they are incompatible?

Martin -

However, products such as B07H31GXJ2 claim to compatible for both A1582 and 1493

Martin -

I was not sure of my abilities, but I needed to fix my MacBook Pro 13" Retina (Early 2015). This seemed to be the best, though slightly more expensive, way to go about it. I’m happy about how it all went. I did a few of the short cuts and used a hair dryer instead of the adhesive remover, though it required a bit more muscle and patience. I appreciate all the efforts of those involved.

Frank Rowland -

I replaced the battery of my Mac successfully and everything is working as expected. The only issue I have, is that the outer segments of the new battery do not seem to hold on to the case. It seems as though the adhesive is not sticky enough. Before installing the new battery I made sure that the case was completely clean; all remnants of the old adhesive were removed.

Any tips on how to fix this? Just glue it in? If so, with which glue? Doublesided tape? There’s a bit too much free space inside the case, so if I move my laptop, I can hear the battery segments move inside the case…

Michiel Katgert -

My battery came with 86% charge but of course, condition as normal for full charge capacity and longevity. Cheers. Took me 26 minutes for entire job. I’ve done several of these though, prepare for an hour at least your first time and GO SLOW and double check everything as you go.

Faslane -

Hat alles perfekt geklappt, danke für die hervorragende Anleitung. Ich hatte den Kleber mi einem Föhn erwärmt das ging auch.

lothardietrich -

Klasse Anleitung, hat hervorragend funktioniert.

Habe das Gehäuse von Außen mit dem Fön erwärmt, 2 Minuten gewartet und dann den Akku herausgenommen.

Gruß Frank

Frank Düding -

One note for having a grand finale: turn the laptop around while reattaching the battery to its port in order to get a better view of how secure it is in place.

I completed all the final steps in reverse and closed my laptop up, only to power it on and see that it wasn’t recognizing the new battery (battery icon had an X through it). So I had to remove the bottom cover and again and make sure it was fastened. Turns out that I had only clicked it half into place. All is well now and I couldn’t be happier with the kit and guide! Thank you so much.

Genevieve Goebel -

Hallo,

nach dem Tausch lässt sich das MB nicht mehr starten.

Ein/Aus / P+R+alt+cmd

Also auch ein SMC Reset mit

Ctrl+alt+shift / Ein/Aus

helfen nicht weiter.

Hin und wieder zeigt der Bildschirm mal eine Batterie mit rotem Balken an, aber unregelmäßig.

Einbau hatte problemlos funktioniert.

Kennt jemand eine Lösung?

niklas -

hattest du eine Lösung finden können?

Zk_bln -

El extraño caso de un MacBook Pro 13” retina de 2015 cuya batería se hinchó de repente después de sólo 20 ciclos de uso.

Un aparato siempre conectado a la red y que siempre se usó como ordenador de escritorio.

Misteriosamente la batería marca 6957mAh de capacidad siendo su capacidad de diseño 6559mAh.

macOS Battery Status GOOD

Jorge Gil -

This was a straightforward repair thanks to the good instructions. This is my first battery swap in a MB Pro after 2 easy ones in MacBook Airs. The adhesive makes this one more complicated. Still took less than an hour, going slow and double checking everything as I went. 2 shortcuts I found: 1) No need to completely disconnect the right speaker. Work the cable loose along the edge of the battery, remove the screws and swing the speaker out of the way. 2) Only need to disconnect the logic board end of the trackpad cable. Another tip: make sure the outermost cells are positioned in such a way that the speakers drop in place. It’s easy to slightly misposition the cell and prevent the speaker(s) from seating properly. Overall, this is another quality repair kit from iFixit.

lmoyers50 -

I replaced my battery in an hour and 20 minutes, no issues following the very concise instructions. Excellent instructions and iFixit battery parts/tool kit. A picture of the Torx screws would make the assembly instructions infallible.

azimuthdave -

Extrem schnelle Lieferung, hervorragende Reparaturanleitung und klasse Werkzeug. Passt!! Nach sorgfältig durchgeführter Vorgehensweise, war “das Projekt” in gut zwei Stunden erledigt. Jetzt noch die Kalibrierung des Akkus ausführen. Danke dafür …

Micha Buchwald -

Very good instructions. Make sure you remember where the screws go because they are in different lengths. I wish I got the ihotopener because the adhesive was really hard to pull them off.

Susu Wong -

Thanks for the very helpful guide really made this repair easy and the adhesive remover made a world of a difference . I advise anyone about to do this repair to purchase the kit provided here it will be money well spent :)

Kyle Bradshaw -

Hello, I recently bought a battery to replace in my MacBook Pro 13” Early 2015. Upon plugging in and turning on, the device booted and I was in business…however, the next time I shutdown and tried to turn on the laptop, it wouldn’t. I would need to disconnect the connector of the battery to the logic board, wait a few seconds, reconnect the battery connector to the socket and my laptop would eventually turn back on.

I’ve tried the following as well: PRAM/SMC Reset and Calibrating Battery. In order to make a fair assessment that the battery was malfunctioning, I went ahead and left the battery connector unplugged and had the laptop on the MagSafe charger and it turned on seamlessly.

Is the “new battery” faulty? Should I replace any other component? Not related, but I had previously updated the SSD successfully with a new WD SSD/NVE PCIe adapter and got one” question mark folder” in the first day of installing it. It hasn’t happened since, so fingers crossed. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Cris A -

Hey, could u fix this problem?

Zk_bln -

Exactly same tging happen to my macbook after i replace battery. Any solutions?

nirmal2008 -

Great guide, works perfectly!

Sammy Valentino -

Hice todo el proceso, pero al encender la mac, no me reconoce la batería

Juan Martin -

Hi Juan, problem solved ?

Solucionado ?

Joel Marti -

Completed on my MBP, the original battery has had around 260 cycles now. Still love this little guy, so I’m glad I’m able to get the battery swapped and feels like new again! In the process also cleaned/re-applied the thermal paste on the CPU and swapped out the SSD!

Ming Lee -

Changed battery successfully but Upon plugging in and turning on, the device booted however, the next time I shutdown and tried to turn on the laptop, it wouldn’t. I would need to disconnect the connector of the battery to the logic board, wait a few seconds, reconnect the battery connector to the socket and plug charger and my laptop would eventually turn back on.

I’ve tried the following as well: PRAM/SMC Reset and Calibrating Battery. In order to make a fair assessment that the battery was malfunctioning, I went ahead and left the battery connector unplugged and had the laptop on the MagSafe charger and it turned on seamlessly.

Is the “new battery” faulty? Should I replace any other component?

nirmal2008 -

my Boss spilled a glass of water over his laptop, and the apple store declared it broken, so he got a new one. Now with all this home office stuff happening, I needed a stronger laptop (i am a designer and worked with a MacBook air)

This was my first ever computer fix, and I was able to fix it all on my own, with no problems at all!

Now everything is working fine again, so thanks a lot for these amazingly detailed instructions!

Uxfocus -

Very nice. Was pretty simple just need patience on the battery removal as you slowly pry it out. Thanks!

jake -

My MacBook will not power on after the replacement…. I double checked the battery connector, it is correctly snapped in. The diode on the charger connector is lighting up orange. The logic board which is part of the battery assembly is warm… What could be the problem?

Jean-François Schmitz -

Just connected the old battery and the Macbook starts. Apparently I got a defective unit….

Jean-François Schmitz -

Big thank you to Dennis from iFixit EU support :-) The battery I got was definitely defect and after a short diagnosis I received a new one by FedEx Express in 24 hours. All up and running again with my new battery :-)

Jean-François Schmitz -

Really appreciated your instructions. Made one error, but not serious. Good work.

James Mitchell -

Great instructions. I have a couple comments:

For people having keyboard or trackpad issues:

If you followed the disassembly photos you may have lifted the the tap on the ZIF connector in Step 18 image. Note the lifted “tape” below the thumb. This may release the ZIF Connector and cause keyboard issues. Make sure the black retaining bar is in the down position on the ZIF Connector.

Also, check the ZIF connector in Step 19 and 20. The Black plastic retaining bar MUST be in the “up/open” position to remove and reinstall the ribbon cable.

Donald MacTavish -

Not all steps are required if you only want to replace the battery. Then you can limit yourself to disconnecting the battery connector (don’t forget to tape it off!), disconnecting the trackpad connector from the system board (watch out while leaving it dangling), unscrew the left and right speakers (while leaving the connectors attached to the system board) and removing the old battery by applying heat.

I cleaned the remaining adhesive from the chassis and bottom of the trackpad with some adhesive remover (petroleum based), and then by removing the leftover glue residue with isopropyl alcohol.

The fixit replacement battery stated 100% power charge when I first powered it up after replacing the battery. I suppose that this is incorrect as a lithium polymer battery is never fully charged when stored. When calibrating the battery, I expect the power level to be accurate.

Olivier Biot -

iFixIt makes repairs super easy. I replaced the battery in my 2015 retina MacBook Pro with ease. Only took 40 minutes. The longest part for me was cleaning the original glue residue but that’s just because my perfectionism was kicking in. Thanks for another DIY repair job in the books!

douglasburch -

je suis un simple utilisateur, pas spécialement formé ou habitué à réparer mon matériel informatique

ce matin, j ai reçu le kit… et je me suis lancé… un peu la peur au ventre sur une intervention qualifiée de difficile

et finalement.. top ! tout est super bien détaillé et expliqué… avec le matériel parfaitement adapté sous la main

et 2 heures plus tard montre en main… c’est fait ! je suis très content.. de moi… de vous ! merci !!!

Valente -

The process took me about an 1:30 because of how the battery was glued. I was going to err on the side of caution so I took my time. Other than than, everything else was straight forward. I didn’t add the aluminum foil (Step 22) because I had already disassembled so much already. That step could have been added at the top before unscrewing. It didn’t factor into what I was doing anyway. The adhesive remover was used sparingly. I also managed to dig out more rice that slipped through the vents when the owner thought it would help. LOL!

Vincent -

Broke the retaining tab of the ZIF connector for the trackpad cable :( I used the absolute slightest pressure and it just popped off and now the trackpad isn’t working

Joe Venten -

I successfully completed battery replacement on my early 2015 MacBook Pro Retina. I also recommend NOT disconnecting the speaker cables, and only disconnect one end of the track pad cable. Just lay the speakers connected but out of the way when positioning the new battery. Also, I was able to remove the old battery with a plastic card and elbow grease…no heat or solvent. Great tutorial!

Rusty James -

Be aware if you use the liquid method!! Although I used an aluminium sheet I ruined my display!

But the kit itself is really great.

Peter Gietl -

Thanks for the new battery and great instructions. We just replaced it and everything went smoothly! Kudos to iFixIt…

Brian Gray -

Everything except wifi wont turn on after replacement… someone please help where how to fix this… ???

Lilliane -

Merci pour ce tutoriel. j’ai réussi à retirer la batterie collée sans aucun produit, avec une carte souple.

1H15 en tout pour démonter puis remonter.

Philippe Blanc -

I used an iFixit Jimmy to break the glue from the battery perimeter where I could and used a combination of sawing through the glue with fishing line (dental floss might work too?) while wearing work gloves and brute forcing with iFixit plastic cards. In retrospect heating the metal blade of the Jimmy first would have been smart. A “Japanese putty knife” like Eric Vuurman mentioned above sounds better. I had foolishly told a student “Sure I can replace your MacBook battery!” before looking at the iFixit guide. Had I done so I would have noticed that the iFixit battery kit would have been a more sane choice. Apple quoted her $200 and a week’s time, the time part being a problem.

brianstretch -

Finalmente la batteria funziona a dovere! Seguendo la guida passo passo non ci sono possibilità di errore!! Considerando che era la prima volta che aprivo il mio macbook pro. Complimenti!! Kit super efficiente! Grazie mille

Daniele Marinelli -

If this repair is a 1/10, then the other repairs must be a breeze to do. I really didn’t find it that hard. I don’t know if it was just my computer, but I’d give it a 5/10 for ease to repair. Give yourself at least an hour to an hour and a half to do it. The only difficult part was trying to remove all the adhesive once the battery was out.. It was just tedious, like trying to get gum out of carpet… But my battery was pretty easy to take out.. I used little amounts around the edge of each battery, and the cards provided lifted the battery right up. If you take your time, this is very easy and doable.

Erik Schmitt -

The battery of my 2015 13" MacBook Pro Retina had swollen. I have replaced it with the iFixit battery in less than one hour. I bought the iFixit kit including tools. Tools are great and I strongly recommend them if you are not yet equipped with specific computer tools. I didn’t use the adhesive remover liquid, the old battery came easily by using the provided plastic card only. Following the tutorial step by step ensure all will be ok. Strongly recommended.

Thierry Waterlot -

I just replaced the battery for my rMBP 2015 13’, but after the replacement I found out that my laptop works somehow slower than before, even with power adapter. Under BigSur I was able to playback 4K videos on YouTube (with charger) but after the replacement I lost the 4K option. I had to reopen it via Safari-Developer Settings-VP9 On Battery and it gets lags when playing 60fps 1440P. And also my Iris Graphics won’t run more than 850MHz, before it could easily get around 1 GHz, CPU run slower and consumes less power also. My rMBP now functions like if is always on battery, although it’s connected to charger. Under System-Info and CoconetBattery everything seems fine. Anybody has the same issue?

Micron Hegerlich -

So, I’m not sure what the issue is. But after I replaced my battery the touchpad / trackpad just isn’t as good as it used to be. It seems like it has intermittent dead spots and doesn’t have that buttery smooth apple feel. I’m not sure if I cranked on the back of it too hard while prying up the batteries, or if I didn’t re-seat the cable well enough. After I go through through the conditioning process I’ll see if a reboot does it, and then I may re-seat the cable.

I could also see Apple just detecting an aftermarket battery and then deciding to make the trackpad no longer work.

arrowchris -

Ich habe gestern mit dem iFixit-Akku Kit meinen Akku erstmals selbst gewechselt und mit Hilfe der Anleitung alles wunderbar hinbekommen! Ich kann allen, die Geld sparen möchten und ihr Gerät weiter benutzen möchten die iFixit-Kits inkl. Anleitungen wärmsten empfehlen. Nun kann ich mein tolles MacBook weiter benutzen und konnte mir 100 Euro Reparaturkosten ersparen! Beste Grüße aus Deutschland!

Alvin De guzman -

I will recommend this battery replacement to like-minded friends for sure! As a former tech writer for telecom systems and analog instrument repair tech, I’m impressed by the quality of this guide, start to finish. Best of all, kudos to you for not offering instructions only by video. Step-by-step text with detailed pictures—entirely usable on a smartphone because, well, it’s obvious, the laptop’s unavailable—were easy to follow and worked. I do agree with observations on Step 22 (“Should be Step 1”) but otherwise I had a painless repair experience. Mac’s at 100% tonight. If I have trouble with battery calibration, I’ll check back and advise, but so far: %#*@ near perfect.

Oh, and the Mako Driver Kit is a great deal, worked perfectly, will help fix so much down the road.

David Ayer -

Hi. I have the following issue after the replacement of the batterie:

the MacBook shutsdown after some seconds at different stages of the restart process. Sometimes I see the apple logo, sometimes the log in screen…. If I keep the powerbutton pushed it starts all the way up, but shutsdown soon after (I see the shutdown screen but can’t stop it). I tried the smc reset. It didn’t help. Any other ideas? I did not run into any problems during the process.

johanneshasselbach -

Great tutorial, thanks to authors.

Unfortunately, after having successfully replaced the battery, the trackpad & keyboard don’t work anymore.

Yet I did all steps very carefully. I did reset VRam, SMC but got no effect. External USB keyboard & mouse are working well.

More, the trackpad seems to be very hard to press (to get a “click”).

I’ve ordered a new trackpad flex cable (quite easy to replace), hoping this solve the problem.

Has somebody else already experienced the same ?

Olivier Lecomte -

Solved: I did replace the flex cable, no positive effect. so, I did order un new trackpad and replaced it. It works ! I think the old one did break during the battery replacement because of mechanical stress (the battery had expanded…)

Olivier Lecomte -

This guide was perfect. I think I did everything right - at least my new battery is now charging. Fingers crossed, but everything looks good!

I should note that my battery was badly swollen and I think that actually made the annoying adhesive removal process a lot easier, as the puffed up battery had less surface contact with the laptop body.

Tim Graham -

Perfect guide, thank you very much! Not as hard as it seems, the only problem is the adesive at the center of the battery. Spend 10€ more and get iFixit kit and your life will be much easier.

Giammarco -

great walk through guide thank you mate

Alfaric -

Removing the battery was easier than it sounded. Clearing up the remaining adhesive residue took a lot longer than I thought but fine. The actual hard part turned out to be installing the new battery. You need to align the one screw—and that part of the battery is not flexible. So I decided to start there. The problem then was it’s really hard to control exactly how the rest of the battery fits in, partly because it’s large and floppy, partly because you don’t have spare space for your fingers. It’s easy for it to land in a way that makes fitting a speaker back in hard, or that raises part pf the plastic battery frame (both happened to me). I don’t know how I could have done it any better, other than by doing 20 of these and getting a feel for it. So the advice: don’t press your new battery down until the VERY last step. You might need to try to pry it up with your fingers at any point when you’re seeing how things are coming back together. All in all it’s a mess and Apple sucks for making it like this.

Giles Holland -

This was an excellent guide and everything worked perfectly. I would only add:

When placing the new battery in place make sure it aligns exactly with the part it plugs into.

I would also suggest doing what I did- use some paper small condiment cups to put the screws into, and you can label each cup with the number of the step and the size of the screw.

Extremely happy!

Michael Mullen -

Just finished replacing the battery on MacBook Pro. The guide was first rate and made the job seem a lot more manageable than I expected.

I bought a divider box from B&Q to store each screw in a separate box - now I have an extra box for my garage. This made putting it back together a doddle.

I did have to remove the sticker over the battery connector to get it lined but but this is no big deal.

Main issue I faced after finishing install was battery not detected and fan racing - that being said the ifixit guide linked me to a related article and after a quick reset of the SMC I have a full recognised battery with 1 cycle count which is now going through the full calibration process.

Thanks ifixit - another MacBook saved from extinction!

Jim Whitehead -

This guide was absolutely excellent! I’ve never fiddled around with computers before and after reading this guide thoroughly a few times I was able to easily understand what I was supposed to do and was able to switch out my old battery no problem. Thank you so much!

PatZen -

The replacement worked well and I got excited when I turned on my MBP. But then I realized that the WiFi isnt working. Did anyone have the same issue? The date and time also are not correct and it wont let me change it.

JoK -

Hammer !

Das ist eine Super-Anleitung, vor allem, was das Lösen der Verklemmung angeht. Ich hab sowohl den iOpener als auch das Lösungsmittel benutzt, damit ging’s dann gut. Auch die genauen Hinweise auf die Schraubenlängen fand ich sehr hilfreich. Hat alles geklappt, aber man muß wirklich sorgfältig arbeiten.

Karsten Franke -

Great! Very useful guide.

I only suggest buying the screwdriver to remove the trackpad as well. Because the solvent flows through the trackpad, so you can clean it.

It took me 2 hours. The tricky thing was to remove the battery in the center, just below the trackpad

Maximillian -

Thank you! My son & I repaired a second hand MacBook he purchased recently. The battery was working but was so bloated the shell parted as soon as the screws were removed. Loosening the battery with all cells bloated was a little nerve wracking, but it all appeared to work out.

The instructions were very good and clear.

The Mac is now charging so hopefully the laptop will work for a while now.

Bert Kelly-Johnston -

Thank you! Just got completed!

Manuel Guimarães -

Thanks for the guide! I was able to complete the repair and now my wife’s mac is back on her desk; she’s very pleased.

The most difficult parts for me were removing the battery (if I did it again, I’d be more comfortable — dissolving the adhesive in an area I couldn’t see was just slow and tedious work) and aligning the new battery just right. I had to kind of stick-unstick-and-restick the battery until I got all the important things (electronic connector, the single screw hole, the little rubber studs that sit against the base, the spaces left for the speakers) just right.

As some of the comments suggested, I did not disconnect the speaker cables or the trackpad cable— I just unscrewed the speakers and set them carefully aside, and bent the trackpad cable out of the way. Those zif connecters I just find too small to work with, so I avoid disconnecting them unless I have no choice.

Russ Williston -

It works! I did it and the machine powered on and the battery is charging. After a wipe over and a screen clean my beloved Early 2015 MacBook Pro 13" is almost ready for sale. Thanks for this great guide iFixit team. Two thumbs up!

Mark Gillespie -

Thank you very much for the clear instructions. I did it in about 45' and everything works fine!!!

Laurean Tudor -

Excellent explanation! I "know" this model from having replaced the speakers, but this was my second Mac Book Pro to repair (and first battery replacement).

I know my way around with isopropanol (have 99+% purity) but I wanted to minimize any risk of spillage and damage to the rest of the device. therefore, I cut through the tape with the plastic cards. It's posisble if you go in the direction of the tape, not perpendicular to it. Was a pain in the neck, but it can be done without solvent. I then used a little isopropanol to clean any residues of tape before fitting in the new battery.

That battery itself (not an original from Apple, third party via ebay) was just a little different in dimensions, so I had do squeeze it in here and there. But the battery was recognized instantly is working fine now.

Apart from that, the trackpad cable connector was the only tricky issue (plugging it back in on the trackpad side).

Jochen Bergmann -

Battery replacement: also used only IPA utilizing one of these cheap small plastic bottles with a steel syringe needle applicator cap. I did have acetone in another bottle but decided against it vs. IPA.

Calibrated the new battery using the advice at the end of the Newer install video.

btk -

Very pleased with my battery replacement. It took approx 1hr 45 mins but I was in no rush and I slowly and carefully followed through the very helpful instructions. My 7 year old MacBook is now as good as new and hopefully good for another few more years yet.

Something interesting: when I opened everything up I was puzzled to find an apple seed hiding inside my machine - was one of the Chinese assemblers having a little joke?

Tony Horsewill -

The process wasn't too difficult, just a bit tedious. I did a few things different from the guide that seemed to make the process go a bit smoother:

- I used a hair dryer to loosen the adhesive instead of acetone or the iOpener.

- I plugged the new battery in while aligning/gluing down. This ensured it was in the exact correct spot to make it fit.

- I used non-acetone nail polish remover on a paper towel to remove the remaining adhesive left behind on the MacBook.

- To ensure that none of the nail polish remover remained, I blasted the MacBook with the hair dryer on the warm setting to help it evaporate faster.

Just a heads up, if you're using your own plastic cards to remove the battery, make sure you use cards you don't care about (i.e. gift cards, expired CCs). The two cards I used became super bent and covered in adhesive. Otherwise, my MB seems to be working great now! :)

PumaGator -

Thanks for this tutorial! My MBP is working again!

The original battery had bloated, almost to twice its thickness. The MBP has already wobbled on the table because the bottom had bulged.

I have done the removal with the iOpener.

Now the battery must still hold out as long as the original. ;-)

Bernd Lauber -

Thank you. I had an early 2015 MacBook collecting dust for 2 years since spilling a glass of red wine on it. After the spill it would power up while plugged in, but once the power was taken away, it shut off. Apple store wanted $500 to replace the battery, and couldn't assure us that it would solve the problem, so we just bought a new MacBook pro. I used your replacement kit for less than $150, and in less than 1 hour the laptop is back in working order.

jonlobb86 -

Great guide. Repair went very smoothly!

adam -

Great guide. Marked as difficult and I sweat myself through it but I actually found it quite straightforward. Worked great with iFixit's battery replacement kit. Saved a ton of money!

Neil 9797 -

Great guide. Very well explained. Kudos to the author. Had no trouble replacing the old battery with the new iFixit replacement battery. My Macbook Pro just got new life again :) Saved me from an expensive repair if given to Apple Care. Thank you.

Daran Kandasamy -

Save yourself some time and trouble and purchase the upper case that already includes the battery. That turns what is a 1/10 in repairability rating into a 9/10 repairability. There are repair/replacement guides here for all of the other internal bits, tricky or not. I’m more careful than quick, but it still took under three hours to swap everything over and re-assemble.

DVI -

This was a pretty straight forward step by step process. Total replacement time was about 1.5 hours going very slowly. Just take your time and you'll be alright. Don't rush.

George Orwell's Ghost -

Excellent instructions. My MB Pro has new life in it! I ordered just the batter as I have the tools. However, I didn't have the adhesive remover, so I used carburetor cleaner instead. The carburetor cleaner worked like a champ, but you've got to be careful about overspray. Give any parts that do get sprayed time to dry before reassembly.

Chris Kidd -

Just finished replacing the battery and am writing the review on the fixed laptop after doing the charge cycling. I almost ruined the trackpad ZIF connector and the larger logic board connectors. I bent the pins on the large logic board socket and used the spudger flat side to bend them back. Then I more carefully positioned the plug upon reentry. I thought I'd released the ZIF but had not. I pulled the ribbon connector straight out parallel to the board. Later I looked more carefully and was able to lift the tiny black bar before using Zero Insertion Force to reposition the connector/cable, then of course latched the bar back. Some photos with more of a closeup would help. A few drops of acetone, wait, insert plastic card while lifting the battery in one side, it was pretty easy to remove them.

neuronetix -

Thank you I fix it it is good to know someone is looking out for us.

Neal Jaggernath -

Thank you for this guide, it worked perfectly with me! Only thing now is that the touchpad and keyboard aren't working... Have to solve that now.

João Duarte -

Another successful repair thanks to the kind folks at iFixit. Repair kit, replacement battery, and step-by-step instructions were flawless as usual. One less device for the recycle bin, and more money in my pocket.

John Scott -

Repair went well, instructions were clear and I managed to do it in about an hour and a half. However, I had to cut away the back of the little nubbins in the 4 corners of the central frame in order for the battery to seat properly, maybe the guide should mention that. One of the plastic cable guides also broke off from the backing of the central cells (not the cable, just the plastic that held it in place) and it popped up (I probably stuck the battery down a little off-center and tensioned it, but I tacked it down with a little kapton tape so it's all ok now.
I hope that the battery doesn't last 18 months like some people say it did in the reviews but until then I'll probably need to replace this laptop anyway. For now, I'm more than happy with it!

Devnol -

What is the reason for waiting 5 hours after it goes to sleep due to low battery in the calibration stage? I thought li-ion batteries weren't supposed to stay drained, ever.

bkbkbk -

Maybe i didn’t see it but how are the battery packs to the left and right if the center ones actually connected - i didn’t see any cabling like in the old battery pack I removed.

Computer still isn’t turning on even after replacing the battery pack. Does the replacement battery pack come with any charge already in them?

Michael Brannagan -

Great instructions! I am no tech-savvy person (have replaced a only few things on my Macbook before) and I was able to pull this off. Don't be intimidated, just read the instructions at least twice and read all comments for each step and you'll be in good hands. Unfortunately, I messed up on Step 19 (like many) and broke my trackpad cable by not flipping up the ZIF connector. Had to buy a replacement for like $8. Took about 2 hrs for everything, and an extra hour for troubleshooting the broken trackpad cable. Had to use more force than I wanted to get those pesky batteries out, but used the solvent pretty liberally and waited like recommended. Overall, I saved a ton of money and this was a great empowering experience.

Kelly Archer -

Complimenti ottima guida, chiara e semplice nelle varie istruzioni. Complimenti ad iFixit, che con la sostituzione della batteria, mi ha consentito un risparmio di circa 150€, rispetto a portare il mio Macbook Pro in un centro assistenza Apple. In circa 1,5h sono riuscito a sostituire la batteria, anche grazie al kit, acquistato assieme alla batteria su i Fixit.

Chini Roberto

chinrobit -

How long did your replacement battery last? Mine after 2 years is dead again.

I got myself a new battery but I fear mysterious issues may arise again

Lilliane -

Merci pour ce tutoriel limpide, merci également aux traducteurs !

Un MacBookPro de plus de sauvé :)

BStew -

@bstew74018 Avec plaisir et bravo à vous pour le sauvetage de MacBook !!!

Claire Miesch -

After using acetone to remove my battery, the buttons for the keyboard has been damaged and bended. I will try replacing the keycaps, but I think using acetone is a bad method. If I were to do it again, I would rather just try to lift the cells slowly while cutting the adhesive with a flexible card. The adhesive is a very viscous liquid

L M -

5 STARS! The instructions were detailed and concise.

Peter Buchta -

So I replaced the battery... unfortunately the trackpad and mouse don’t work, but I’m pretty sure I know what I did there (accidentally bent the cable, and the trackpad was on its last legs and I think I pressed too hard removing the adhesive from the back).

My bigger problem is that now my computer keeps trying to turn on randomly. Anyone have any idea what’s going on?

Dck -

Assuming the cable is not broken. The connector must be closed by lowering the lever, otherwise there is a false contact and the mouse does not work.

I had the same problem and solved it this way.

Maximillian -

Another Life for my MacBook Pro!

10 days ago I recognized that my MacBook Pro was deformed. The keyboard was not flat anymore. So I assumed that the battery bulged and deformed the case. A few days later I ordered the reparation kit at ifixit. the procedure is mentioned as difficult and really it was. But with all the proper tools and devices it was effectively manageable. No time-wasting with the detailed DIY-description. Only 2 hours later I saw that I spent mine Mac a couple of years of additional service.

Thanks a lot.

Alexander Herold -

Successfully replaced the battery. All went fine except for some significant effort wrestling with the batteries. However, I apparently fat fingered something along the way and now my keyboard and trackpad are non-functional. I've re-set the trackpad cable that runs across the middle batteries. The ZIF connector seems fine and that all looks okay, but still no joy. I don't think I damaged that cable, but it's certainly possible. Any thoughts on how best to proceed?

I'll be getting an external mouse and keyboard in hopes that I can access some data that wasn't backed up, otherwise I may try pulling the SSD and setting that up as an external drive. Bah. Was hoping to stretch the life of this little laptop for another 5 years or so .. but right now things are looking bleak.

Scott P. -

Thank you very much for this guide. Everything was perfectly explained and I managed to change the battery in under an hour. The hard part of all of this process was the adhesive, but other than that, every was pretty straightforward.

Adolph -

Thanks for the instructions and tips. Got the old swollen battery out of my trusty 8 yr old MacBook, put the replacement back in, and the connectors seem to have survived my handling.

Janne Toivola -

Worked great! 😊

Olafur Gudjonsson -

To the people who say the left the tape on until after installing the speakers - they mean the white tape on top of the battery, not the blue one from underneath, sticking the battery to the case. That's how it's supposed to be.

For me, the best way to align the battery was to plug it in first, then align everything else. Luckily the new glue is not very sticky, so you can take the battery off and put it back properly.

Took me about 90min to complete, being extra careful. My keyboard light seems to not be turning on now, trackpad and speakers work perfectly though. I'll check the connector again later.

Alex -

My keyboard light seems to not be turning on now

Nope, it's on, all good.

Alex -

I just installed this tonight and I have to say that I am very impressed. It took me about 1.5 hours altogether and I swear half of that was working at the old adhesive after I got the battery out. I still love my 2015 and am real happy that it’s up and running again after the battery swelled.

Daniel Lemley -

Great instructions and user comments!

Worked on a fire blanket in case of fire emergency.

Folded the speakers up out of the way and secured with insulating tape to the corners of the computer.

Didn’t remove the ZIF connector end of the track pad cable - just curved it gently forward and secured it with a loop of string secured under the computer.

Didn’t use the solvent. Heated a gel ice pack following the iOpener instructions.

Only used solvent for final clean up.

Cut off the rubber nibs on the battery board.

Located the battery by lining up the hole for the battery board retaining screw and lightly screwing it in before pressing down on the batteries to secure them. Temporally removed the backing on the battery connector to allow precise alignment of the connector. Permanently removed the extra rubber pad above the connector as no such pad existed above the original connector.

Followed the final steps in Kamil Kuzmiak’s video regarding SMC and PRAM resets and battery calibration. Computer working fine!

David P -

Wasn't as difficult as I imagined. Prying someone those connectors off can be a bit daunting as you're afraid to damage, but with gentle firmness this works. The hardest bit is getting the old battery off the adhesive, but I rested one side of the MacBook on a thick book to create a flow angle for the solvent and was patient. Patience and bit by bit does it.

Good kit, good instructions, all put back together and connected again , speakers working, battery is charging, so far so good. Now let's wait and see how good the battery is.

Carsten -

Thank you! Such a great and useful guide!

Sean Farmar -

Tutorial worked out well, and I followed all of the safety instructions. I also had a box of sand and a sturdy leather glove in reach, should the old battery start to act up. One cell was actually bloated a bit at age 9.

Glue removal under the battery and afterwards on the case was seriously laborious.

One clarification I would have liked to know beforehand: When removing the center two cells, the guide notes to watch out for the trackpad board. Additionally I would warn that you can slip under the metal cover that separates battery and trackpad. I did briefly and was worried when I realised.

10/10, would recommend for any tinkerer with less than 2 left hands.

Bernhard -

Hello,

Merci pour ce tuto <3

Je viens de faire mon changement de batterie avec celle-ci : https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B01KXRTTKQ

Tout c'est bien passé, il faut a minima Essential Electronics Toolkit et un iOpener ou à défaut un pack de chaud pour blessure :)

GFX -

I really enjoyed this project, Thanks a lot for preparing the detailed documentation.

sachin jose -

I successfully replaced the battery of my 13" retina early 2015 (A1502).
Here are my suggestions :
1. You don't need to take off the fan and the speakers. For the speakers, just slide them aside. The replacement is not difficult, it's taking off this nasty glue that is complicated (Apple must have had a devious laugh when they placed this). The trackpad cable is also glued to the battery, I used a floss, it was very easy.

Once you arrive at the two cells stuck under the trackpad, do not put the adhesive remover at the bottom where the trackpad control board is. Stay away from it. You can put it at the top and on the sides. My adhesive remover bottle had a thick nozzle, so it was impossible to use it alone, I used a toothpick to help it guide the liquid where I wanted, just put the nozzle on the toothpick side and the liquid will follow. This saved me a LOT of problems and time. I needed a very little amount of glue, the bottle looks almost brand new.

Good luck ! You can do it ! Curse a lot, it will help :)

Marie Alice -

Ending with the battery removal seems a bit abrupt. Some tips about sticking in the new battery would be good. For example, the glue is so sticky that you only get one shot at it. Make sure that the alignment is just right so the plastic pegs at the bottom seat in and are straight. Make sure there is enough space that the speakers fit. (Remove clear plastic first) also the battery connector needs to light perfectly with the logic board. This was by far the most difficult part of all this, and it’s not mentioned in the instructions.

Aaron Wilson -

Agreed on logic board alignment! I will have to remove and re-set the new battery just because of this, and may have broken the KBD connector along the way already...

Tom Hernandez -

I followed every step and everything worked perfect! Thank you for the guide. The only thing was that the screw from the replacement battery (step 21) was not aligned with the screw hole. Everything else was alright!

Jorge Zaun -

Guys, I followed the procedure diligently, but so far ended up in failure. I have an A1502 MacBook and bought another vendor's battery for swapping in. I've had this guy since 2016, so 8 years of decent use. It started having KBD issues two years ago, and that was the first "fragility" I needed to keep in mind. Swapping a new KBD cable in and figuring out how to get the back rescrewed on without moving the cable enough to lead to failure again was a trick in itself, but I fixed it, and battery was next. That battery is really glued in tight, and the new battery had some slight size differences here and there that meant not an exact fit, but OK. KBD cable failed again, solidly this time, with battery too close to the ZIF socket now. SO still trying, with yet another kbd cable on the way and needing to reposition the new battery for more cable socket clearance. If doesn't work my laptop is toast. My conclusion is a big item like a glued in, multi-piece battery may not be worth the trouble to swap.

Tom Hernandez -

Just finished replacing battery, and it seemed to go well. Then charged the battery to 100% + a couple hours. But if I unplug the computer, it immediately dies.

I downloaded the CoconutBattery App, but everything looks OK. Any ideas?

Michael -

Had a problem after changing my battery that it wouldn't charge. Got 21% but then nothing happened. Tried SMC reset etc, but no luck.

Also coconut battery looked good, just didn't charge.

In the end it turned out I hadn't properly inserted the battery cable (it wasn't pushed down properly on the left side).

Now I'm running my first calibration charge.

Markus Johansson -

I changed the battery once and worked perfectly. Now after 2 years i changed it again, and when I turned it on, the trackpad and keyboard are not responding. The flex cable its well connected and doesn’t look damaged. Anyone have any idea what could be going on?

Alejandro Contreras -

I ordered a battery replacement back in 2023, It worked perfectly but I started using an amazon charger instead of the original from apple. The battery got swollen within a year. Now I'm buying the replacement for the second time. this time arround I'll only use the original charger to make sure it last.

Carlos Martinez -

As some one who has replaced the battery multiple times over the past few years, I can confirm the battery lasts for about a year and a half on average in my experience before it needs to be replaced again.

Gabe -

After putting it off for over a week due to fear of failure, I finally did it! I’ve replaced the dead battery in my ol’ faithful 2015 MacBook! I could not be more thrilled!! This guide )and more importantly the comments on the steps) got me through the whole thing painlessly. He’s still sharing for the first time but I’m hopeful! Thank you all so much! I’ve had this MacBook for 10 years, a gift from an old friend. This is so awesome!

Waleks -

Thanks for sharing this manual. I changed my battery and hopefully after replacing the charger too it will work smoothly again.

JBa -

Vielen Dank für die tolle Anleitung! Akku wird jetzt geladen, es sollte alles wieder gut funktionieren. Das genaue einpassen der Akkus ist ein bisschen schwierig. Ich hab den Akkustecker als erstes eingesteckt und dann die Akkus fixiert.

Robert Suttner -