Substituição da bateria do MacBook Pro 13" com Function Keys de 2017

I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.

I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.

I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.

I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.

After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.

This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.

Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.

If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.

For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.

Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).

Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.

Read the comments section at the bottom of the article before proceeding with the repair. It is unnecessary to remove the logic board. I actually removed the 45mm plastic bar to enable the cables to slip out then in. It is only there to frustrate repairers!

I followed the instructions on my old 2017 MacBook Pro A1707 and I have to say these were the clearest and best instructions I have found on the internet for anything, really. I am about to power up the machine, so we'll see. I'm sure if it doesn't work, it something I was careless with - the instructions matched the hardware perfectly. Def impressed.

Hallo

Was macht man wenn das Laptop nicht angeht, soll man dieses Schritt vernachlässigen?

I used a pick underneath one of the back corners and nudge it (push down and towards the front - to get it off the hinge). This will make it easier to do the same for the other corner. The lower case will move off the middle plastic L-clips (which you will see after you inspect it.) Cheers! =)

I have found that your iFixit blue pry tool is excellent at giving me leverage to slide the bottom case forward to release it from the internal clips.

the panel is sharp on the edges, sharp enough for you to cut yourself when pulling on it. i learned the hard way, just make sure your fingers are in a good spot before pulling

After hearing the right/left clicks as indicated in the guide, I placed the suction cup centrally and pulling up in 1 single decisive move. There was a loud pop, but the bottom came off with no visible sign off damage at any hinge. This move will not work in reverse (when putting the cover back) since you absolutely must slide the cover back at the screen hinge first (if you inspect closely the clipsing mechanism you will understand why). When mounting it back it was a bit tedious to "slide" the cover back in the screen hinges, but aftewards I again vertically i pressed firmly where the clips are (inspect the back cover and you will understand what is the principle and where to press from the outside). This method may seem a bit brutal and I would not recommend it for the faint hearted. The most gentle method seems to do the recommended steps as indicated by the guide (declipsing left, right and middle) and then find a way to pull the cover towards you (do NOT try to lift up the cover upwards !)

Be very careful to ensure you're pulling the large rectangular patch of tape and NOT the little black tab on the data cable that is below. At first glance they look like they're all one piece. I made this mistake and think that I ruined that cable.

Mark one of the tape’s edges and, upon removal, stick it down with the same orientation. The first time I was inside the MacBook Pro (to upgrade the SSD) I failed to do this, and spent almost 30 minutes trying to get it back like it had been. Making a photo also helps.

In case you have already taken this out and not looked at how it was in: there’s an end with a round nub sticking out and one with two parallel lines. I was able to get it back in with the round nub over the screw (would be the left side of this picture) and the parallel lines straddling the battery board data cable close to where it connects.

Putting it back was not easy for me. Lots of patience is needed to slid the connectors in place. They should enter without much effort.

Once secured with the locking tab, it should stay secured even if you try to pull it out with just a bit if force. I'd recommend this check that the connection is secured before moving on.

If your laptop is showing the x where the battery icon is, this cable is at fault. This cable is referred to as the BMU (Battery Management Unit) flex cable. If it’s damaged, replacing it should solve your issue.

I am having the same issue as Leo. After install. Is there a way to identify the fault?

Although the rest of fixit manual on this is excellent, this step is woefully lacking and the fact that the replace “kit” doesn’t have the Battery Board Data cable included makes the replacement kit significantly lacking (especially compared to other kits and instructions I’ve used before from them)

Had I realized how difficult it would be to get the small end of the cable re-seated, I would have reattached it before gluing down the new battery. Still trying to get the connector seated. The cable keeps folding, and at some point the internal connectora will break.

The glue remover is a mix of Acetone and Isopropyl alcohol I believe.

The adhesive remover they are currently selling does not need to be cut open, it is black and already has a small hole. Check yours before you cut off something you don't need to.

A little warning for those of us who don't know a lot about acetone. DO NOT spill any on any finished wood. It will take the finish off of a wood surface faster than you can wipe it off. It won't harm clothes surprisingly, but your hardwood floor or wood table are not going to look great if you spill this on them.

I ordered just the battery, and successfully used "Goo Gone" to loosen the adhesive. I found it useful to place the plastic card along the edge of the battery, then dribble the Goo Gone on the card (when runs down the card to the edge of the battery). In my computer the adhesive is in three strips running across the length of the cell, each strip is about 1/4" wide

There is a metal lip that blocks you from pushing it in. I recommend you start from the corner with the lifted metal part. (top left corner of battery in picture)

the adhesive is in three 'bands' running parallel to the front of the computer. my method was to insert the card part way, then drip the adhesive onto the card and let it slide down to where the card met the adhesive. this seemed to work best. it seems unlikely that the adhesive will run all the way to the rear adhesive when you apply it from the front.

I'm also one of those that just can't stand the idea of using solvent to do the job. FYI, I used a bent and 'sharpened' plastic card, much like a credit card, to carefully separate the battery from its adhesive. I was even able to get the center section out by working the card in from the sides (mostly from the right side, as I'm right-handed), so I didn't have to remove the trackpad assembly. I figured there are huge risks in however we do these complicated jobs, so I'm more comfortable with the risks associated with my technique than the ones associated with the solvent technique. And the bonus is that I finished in less than an hour!

I've done enough of these battery replacements now that I'm confident about dealing with the fussy little ribbon cables and their connectors, which is an added bonus when tackling a newer model like this.

Good luck to all who are taking this on for the first time! Take your time, read all the way through before starting, and be sure to read all the comments throughout!

Can someone clarify the statement "Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%." in this last step"? It does not state this in the directions I received on a small card with the battery replacement, nor does it in the Conclusion below.

I followed this guide to replace the battery in a Mid 2017 MBP. The original was stuck at 0% even after 3 hours on charge even though the cycle count was 2 digits only.

I dry tested the replacement battery first. It had 38% charge. I left it plugged in and it reached 100% fine. The next day, I stuck the new battery down and low and behold now the machine won't power up.

I reconnected the old battery and the machine powers up ok. I tried reseating the connections 3 times with the new battery and it still won't power up. I've tried an SMC reset too. So I'm guessing it's a faulty new battery. Either that, or the rumours that Apple are deliberately locking out non-genuine Apple parts is true.

Trouble is, this seems to be quite a common scenario with this model.

Referring to the messages from Cool_Breeze and Karen.

Does this battery replacement technique still work or have Apple somehow 'blocked' it?

Thanks

I don't recommend to calibrate the battery at the end and even Apple do not recommend to calibrate since a decade. It seems the battery is already calibrated with 2 cycles already. I followed your calibration tutorial and my new battery lost 6% health statut... Probably because of letting cels at 0% during 5 hours.... It's totally a non sense!!!

That was hard. Particularly replacing the BMC cable, and getting the b****y batteries out. But it's sitting charging just now, and I think (for think read hope) it's all ok. Phew.

I have and recommend cleaning the case before placing it back on as it can collect a lot of dust especially around the fan.

Really good instructions! However I needed more than 2 hours ... I guess the problem was between laptop and chair :-D Anyway, many thanks folks!