SteelSeries Arctis 7 2019 Edition Wireless Broken Micro USB to USB C upgrade Replacement

Escrito Por: epooloope
  • Comentários: 10
SteelSeries Arctis 7 2019 Edition Wireless Broken Micro USB to USB C upgrade Replacement

Dificuldade

Difficult

Passos

11

Tempo necessário

4 hours

Introdução

This Guide is on how to upgrade your SteelSeries Arctis 7 to a USB-C port.

The Datapins are preserved so the headset still retains all of its functionality and can be connected to the PC via USB.

Note it will be somewhat destructive to your Headset, as the Port needs to be widened and some place has to be carved out of the Headset to fit the larger USB-C Port.

This has already been done by another user named Kireobat, though I use another approach: SteelSeries Arctis 1/7 micro USB port Replaced with USB C port.

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    • Remove Ear Cushions

    • Use the Torx T6H Bit to remove the screws

    • Gently lift the speaker side. Watch out for the Cables

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    • Remove and clean the Micro USB solder spot

    • My Micro USB has been ripped out. That's why I'm missing my pad

    • The pins are From left to right:

    • 1. VCC

    • 2. D-

    • 3. D+

    • 4. ID

    • 5. GND

    Hi. Is pin 4 (ID) used? The pad had been ripped off on a board I'm repairing and it didn't appear to go anywhere. Plus I can see that it doesn't appear to be connected to the usb c mod board.

    Cheers

    Andy

    Andrew Brown -

    Hi, sorry for the late reply. I hope you still managed to save your headphone!

    So my guide does care about the pads on the board. As you can see, the pad on mine are also ripped off.

    The ID pin is just to communicate with your device whether it is a slave or not. In this case, it is floating, configuring it as a slave.

    This is replaced with the USB-C port, by the resistor between R1 and GND (see step 5)

    Best of luck in your future repairs

    Epo

    epooloope -

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    • Use Kapton Tape to cover the Electric Components

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    • Add a 5.1 kOhm Resistor on between R1 and GND to configure the USB-C as a slave

    • Cover the open Pads with Kapton Tape

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    • Trim the plastic from the bottom screw hole on both the top and bottom halves of the case to make place for the port.

    • Note this may impact the robustness of your device. I did not notice any drawbacks

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    • Enlarge the micro USB cutout with a soldering iron

    • Lowering the temperature of your soldering iron gives you better control when enlarging the hole

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    • Use isopropyl alcohol to clean the USB-C connector and PCB

    • Position the USB-C board with a 2–2.5 mm overhang from the PCB

    • Preheat the USB-C board using a soldering iron or a heat gun if available. It helps in soldering as it has a large thermal mass

    • Melt solder on the GND pads. Ensure they are fully covered and thoroughly heated

    • Place the board on the GND pads. Use additional heat

    • Ensure no contact between ground pads and other USB-C contacts.

    I'm attempting this right now, but I'm having trouble soldering the usb c port in place any tips for making the solder stick to the port itself?

    Pedro Barreiro -

    Thanks for attempting it, kinda makes me happy :) I also had some problems at this step

    The temps need to be sufficiently high, for the solder to properly wet the surface of the USB port. It is important to keep your port long enough in place for the solder to cool completely

    You could also try sanding the USB-c port to increase surface area and also remove the protective coating.

    Keep the surfaces clean!

    Use flux!

    Use enough heat!

    If you have problems ask me anytime and let me know how your repair went :D

    epooloope -

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    • Solder Jumper cables to the following breakout pins

    • Solder Connections:

    • TP401 for V

    • TP403 for D+

    • TP404 for D-

    • TP412 for GND

    • Ensure each connection is secure, has proper contact and free of shorts

    Is it possible to skip this step and just solder the cables exactly where the micro usb pins were?

    Tomáš Hnilický -

    it's possible but soldering the usbc port in place might be difficult, you have to make sure that nothing is shorting, or gluing the port to the plastic frame so it is stable when plugging the cable

    Pedro Barreiro -

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    • Solder the cables to the corresponding pads on the USB-C board

    • (Optional): Add hot glue to the connections on both sides for extra stability

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    • Position the board in the case. Push the ports into the cutouts

    • Adjust until screw holes on the case match those on the PCB

    • Close the headset and fasten the srews

    • CONGRATS !! You made it :D

Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Autor(a)

epooloope

Membro desde: 29/04/23

203 Reputação

4 comentários

Hey does this provide data and charging or only charging?

Pedro Barreiro -

Yes it does provide data and charging as you also solder the datapins to the USB C port.

So it is being recognized by the software.

epooloope -

I tried to attach a USB-C connector to the dongle, and the D+ line came off. Do you know which pin is the D+ breakout pin on the dongle?

joswald martinez -

I don't understand you completely. But as far as I understood you, you have the USB-C Board, there you tried to solder the cable to a pin on that USB-C board, but it then the D+ pad ripped off?

If so, I would just order a new one, as they are quite cheap.

If you really want to use that board, I would suggest using a multimeter in continuity mode, to probe the places where the data line goes to. Alternatively, you can also look at a USB-C schematic to find the D+ pin on the board.

Best of luck in your repair! Hope it turns out to be a success!

epooloope -