Steam Deck - Ultra Battery

Passo 1

Turn on your Steam Deck and allow the battery to discharge below 25% before starting your repairs, as a charged lithium-ion polymer battery can be dangerous if accidentally punctured.
As an extra precaution, Valve recommends putting your Steam Deck into battery storage mode within the BIOS before starting any internal repairs. Read how to do that here.
Power down your Steam Deck and unplug any cables.
If you have a microSD card installed, make sure to remove it before opening the Steam Deck. If you attempt to remove the back cover with it still installed, it could snap right in half.
During your repair, it can be helpful at times to lay the Steam Deck face-down into its case to protect the thumbsticks and prevent wobble.

Passo 2

Use a Phillips driver to remove the eight screws securing the back cover:
Four coarse thread 9.5 mm-long screws
Four fine thread 5.8 mm-long screws
Despite the standards, Phillips screwdrivers can vary in size and shape—two drivers labeled as the same size may fit differently in the same screw. Use the size that fits the snuggest into the screw head.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your Steam Deck.

there should be a picture of the SD card slot at the start of every Steam Deck teardown. i know the note is there but i generally use the pictures to guide me and forgetting to remove the SD card is a very critical step

Nathan Barrow -

I agree, I just broke mine...

Camille B -

What is the the #1 philips used for? Only the #0 is mentioned in the instructions.

Christopher Martin -

I wish they would specify which size to use for which screws.

Mark D -

I found it easiest to use a PH1 for the red screws, and PH0 for the rest (including the internals.)

Chris Clawson -

Be careful you can strip the screws take your time

I use PH00 bit

jaybush74 -

My last one did. I'm so mad honestly

kyuuchat -

I used the PH1 bit for this. You can use smaller bits but ideally there should be no play of the bit in the screw head.

Charles Semple -

are there playstation replacements (circle,square,cross,triangle)

Deór -

I used the ifixit tools and used the 00 size for the screws on the back.

Luis B - 10/01/23

I've completed the guide and found it very helpful!

I think somewhere in this part it would be helpful to name the size of the correct Phillips driver to use:

Use a Phillips driver to remove the eight screws securing the back cover:

Four 9.5 mm screws

Four 5.8 mm screws

Maynard -

I used the PH1 for the 9.5mm screws and PH00 for the 5.8mm screws. The PH0 wanted to strip one of the small ones.

Pol Llovet -

FYI - 512gb version has blue threadlocker on the Orange screws.

Kyle -

Just a point for knowledge sake, the Four 5.8mm screws on this step are factory installed with a version of locktite. Not sure why but there will be slight resistance when removing the first time.

Derek Schmidlin -

Stripped two of the 5.8mm screws, feel pretty dumb, now I'm stuck at step 2 of 43 :|

Yareyous -

The screw bit that came with my fix kit just stripped the screws of my steam deck. I guess I should've just sent it in...

Randy Jackson -

Model 1030 SteamDeck uses Torque #6 (CR-V T6) 5.0mm for all 8 screws making it far less likely to damage the screw heads.

seaniepie -

Model 1030 is the OLED version, which we have separate guides for! See here: Steam Deck OLED

Carsten Frauenheim -

the steamdeck that I purchased in April 2025 no longer uses phillips for the rear panel screws, but instead uses a Torx T6H driver

Kevin James -

Do you have an LCD or OLED model?

Carsten Frauenheim -

One of the coarse screws just snapped on me im so !#^&@@ rn

Eggs Benedict -

I was very apprehensive about this step, but I did it without stripping the screws.

First, I tried to remove a first view with my PH0 screwdriver but it slipped. I didn't insist and I took my PH00. This time, It adhered better, but the screws are very tight.

With my left hand, I pressed the screwdriver down very firmly, to apply strong downward pressure. And, with my right inch and index, I started turning the body of the screwdriver gently. Then the screw starts to rotate a bit.

When reassembling, be careful not to overtighten them (especially the longer ones). As soon as the screws stop turning, stop immediately. Use only the force of your fingers to gauge if it's tight enough.

Estève Y -

Model with the black motherboard cover.

I used a J1 screw bit - I think this is a JIS PH1 - it's the one which fitted the screws with absolutely ZERO wiggle, super tight.

Took it very slow and careful, no problems at all.

bbmatt -

Passo 3

Insert an opening pick into the thin gap between the back cover and the front shell, along the edge of the right grip.
If you're having trouble inserting your pick at the grip seam, try starting at either the top or bottom long edges first, then slide the pick towards the grip.
Pry up on the back cover to release it from the locking clips.

I found it easiest to start this process at the top of the device near the fan exit.

Peter Lindberg -

second that and inserting the pick in the bottom middle and sliding the pick to each side

Sub -

I also found the top near the fan exit to be easier

Travis Patton -

Thank you for this tip, it definitely was easy starting at the top instead of by the bumper/triggers. After I opened the top I did the bottom and then it was way easier to gently open the sides. be very careful and go slowly to make sure that none of the clips are damaged

Luis B -

this as suggested above:

1. open the top

2. open the bottom

3.gently open the sides

austrasier - 17/04/23

same; i pried from the top of the screen area. I was unable to find an opening on the side

Dennis Wu -

I also started from the middle of the deck and worked my way out since I couldn't get a grip with the pick on the deck's side grips. Since this is a common step for pretty much all guides for opening the deck I think it's also worth noting that you should be careful not to bend the trims/seams where the front and back covers meet with the pick. When I first opened my deck you can definitely see where I nudged the pick in between the covers since I was probably using too much force on the pick itself.

Kaleb McKone -

It would be useful to note here that if you want to insert the little blue triangular iFixit opening picks into the right side along the edge, there isn't actually a gap as the directions say, at least not on newer Decks. You'll be making the initial gap using the pick. Brace it on something because you will need to use enough downward force that you're flexing the pick a bit and it'll probably be digging into the skin of a bare hand. With enough force suddenly it will make a click and go in just a bit, and then you're in business.

CaptFrost -

plastic picks didnt work for me but finger males did the job on prying this open

jacobbagsic -

I found it easiest to open starting with R1 or L1 buttons and proceeding to the center of the top edge

Karol Gro -

This step was the hardest by far. First I didn't find an opening at the sides, and it did take a really long time until I finally got it open... Then, when I had the one side opening open it didn't just pop out, I needed to slide all the way to the other side with the pick and open everything. I guess they made it even more drop resistant.

Dollique -

Top left or right - used a guitar pick, took about 60 careful seconds - very easy.

bbmatt -

Passo 4

Once the clips are disconnected from one edge, the rest disconnect easily.
Grip the back cover at the opening you just created and pull it up and away from the device to unclip the long edges.
Remove the back cover.

If you have an SD card, you will want to take it out. I followed the guide and didn't think about the SD card I had inside. When I went to snap the case back on it clapped shut on the exposed SD card, shearing it in half and leaving the bottom half stuck in the SD card slot. I am still endeavoring to get it out.

Novice -

you can use the case that comes with the steam deck to support it once the lid is removed

Luis Barbosa (Armored Saint) -

You can get the pry pick inserted easier if you start in the gap for the shoulder buttons. A lego brick separator works well here

Andrew Borsje -

Just did this repair on my Steamdeck. Was pretty easy and took me less than an hour thanks to this guide. THANK YOU iFixIt!

Slash Zero -

The screenshots here of one hand lifting the back cover are ... well, you won't be doing it that way!

In the previous step, you should've heard some audible little click noises. Once you've heard those, it'll be a combination of picks and maybe thumbnail to gently tug on any side - REALLY gently. It should give very easily. If it doesn't, go back to the previous step until you hear a click.

I very much doubt you'll be able to just lift this off with one hand like that screenshot!

bbmatt -

Passo 5

If you have a refreshed Steam Deck version with the black motherboard cover, skip this step.
Use a pair of tweezers to remove the piece of foil tape covering the hidden screw on the board shield.
If possible, try not to rip or tear this tape so it can be reused. If necessary, you can fashion a replacement by cutting a piece of aluminum foil tape to fit.

Passo 6

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three screws securing the board shield:
One 3.4 mm screw
Two 3.7 mm screws
Only the two 3.7 mm screws along the left edge are present in refreshed Steam Decks.

Passo 7

Remove the board shield.
Depending on the age of your Steam Deck, this shield may stick to the thermal pads underneath.
During reassembly, ensure that the fan cable lays on the side of the board shield and isn't pinched underneath.

Passo 8

Grip the battery cable by its pull tab and pull it directly away from the motherboard to disconnect it.
Alternatively, use the flat end of a spudger or a clean fingernail to gently push the connector out of its socket, then disconnect it completely by hand.

Passo 9

Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.4 mm screw securing the SSD.

Passo 10

With the SSD screw removed, the SSD will pop up at a shallow angle.
Grip the end of the SSD and pull it away from its M.2 board connector to remove it.
During reassembly, insert the SSD at a shallow angle into its board connector, and secure it back into its horizontal position with the SSD screw.

Passo 11

The SSD is wrapped in ESD shielding that will need to be transferred to the replacement SSD. Alternatively, replacement shielding can be found here.
Slide the shielding off of the SSD.
If the shielding feels stuck, use a pair of tweezers to peel off and remove it instead. Take care to keep it in the best condition possible if you want to reuse it.
Only the SSD remains.
The Steam Deck uses a single-sided M.2 2230.
To recover, repair, or re-image your SSD, follow Valve's Steam Deck recovery instructions.
Note: The Steam Deck's buttons, thumbsticks, and touchpads may not register inputs at first after re-imaging the SSD. Use the touchscreen to follow initial SteamOS setup, allowing the device to download updates. Functionality should return once the Steam Deck restarts.

If ESD shielding needed to be replaced, what would be recommended?

Jeffrey Martin -

Also would like to know where to buy replacement for shielding. Would prefer not to re-use the existing one.

Rory Murphy -

I broke the shielding. Can not find where to buy one. Currently panicking. Help?

Luis Ortiz -

IFix it litterally sells replacement shielding.

There is a link in this guid to the shielding...

Steam Deck LCD and Steam Deck OLED SSD Foil Cover

Stephen Girty - 19/02/23

Link was added just about a week prior to your comment.

skzm -

I was able to slide the shielding off (and on) like a sleeve. No need to open it up.

Andy HL -

I'm happy the SSD upgrade kit already comes with a ESD shield (plus everything else you need). Just 5 bucks more than the SSD alone.

Marcos Alano -

Excellent guide! Thakns for posting this!

carlthewinner -

You don't need to remove the shielding that way.

Just slide it out and install it on the new ssd.

Claudio Spano -

Exactly what I did. No issues at all.

Miguel Coias -

My Steam deck apparently had a different shield (probably upgrade to make sure there's no issues with the fan cable) there were just the two screws on the left side and there was no screw under any piece of foil tape (no foil tape at all) and the shield was black made it somewhat easier. Also when removing the board shield it can kinda be stuck due to cooling pads attached to the shield, just wiggle evenly from all sides pulling gently upward and it will get loose eventually. This makes sure the shield doesn't get bend.

OnZoRAW -

What happens if when using the Rufus utility, GPT option does not appear? Thanks in advance

jason bonilla -

The shielding for the SSD is just some insulating tape and foil. If you need a new one, just cover the SSD in electrical tape and then wrap a strip of foil all the way around it, using some additional bits of tape to hold the edges in place so it stays entirely on top of the tape.

Albert Lee -

OnZoRAW's answer (3 above) should definitively be used to improve the description of this step!

aui -

100% agree. I kept thinking I missed a screw because the shield was well adhered to the thermal pads and took more force than I was initially comfortable applying to pry it off. In fact, after scouring this whole guide for this precise step, the comment above by OnZoRAW is the only mention of it.

James Kalivoda - 04/11/23

Did you charge the SD up before attempting to install the OS to the new SSD? Or was the OS installed with the battery at 20% and in battery save mode?

Slog_77 -

Il pulled the protection before disconnect the SSD. This allowed me to pull the protective cover while the SSD was held onto the connector

Estève Y -

Dont forget to stick the charger in the deck to get out from battery mode after you done. Also don't panic when you start the deck it takes quite long to start after , I panicked a little but It worked. (Cloned the existing SSD onto a new one and replaced it) Worked fine.

Justsome Games -

Black motherboard cover.

As others have stated, the shield just slid right off mine.

In fact, in the video you can also see the shield is really loose.

Just tug gently on one of the "lugs" where there's a U shaped hole and slide off carefully.

It may take a few tugs on either "lug" to shift.

I guess if glue has somehow got onto the SSD, then that's bad luck.

Getting it back onto the replacement SSD was a little fiddly, it felt like the 2TB replacement I put in was ever so slightly thicker.

I slid it on part way with my fingers and once again, where the U shaped hole is, I tugged gently on one of the "lugs" and slid it perfectly into place.

bbmatt -

Passo 12

Power down your Steam Deck.
Once off, hold down the volume up (+) button and press the power button.
Release both buttons.
The Steam Deck should power up, booting into the BIOS menu.

Passo 13

Within the BIOS, use the D-Pad to navigate and the A button to select.
Navigate to Setup Utility.
Navigate to the Power menu.
Select Battery storage mode.
Select Yes to confirm.
Your Steam Deck should now power down into storage mode.
When in storage mode, your Steam Deck won't respond to power button presses. To exit storage mode, plug your Steam Deck into the charger.

schlechte Übersetzung

"Battery Storage Mode" würde ich eher mit "Batterie deaktiveren", "Akku-Aufbewahrung" oder "Batterieschutzmodus" übersetzen. Ich würde den BIOS-Bereich (korrekterweise UEFI-Bereich) unübersetzt lassen, da das Menu ohnehin nicht auf Deutsch vorliegt.

David - 18/10/22

Perfect work

ugvik -

Worked like a charm! Thanks a bunch!

Landon Wisley -

This worked for me to fix unresponsive touch screen. Thanks!

Dan Gahagan -

I did aplied thermal paste and when doing that i disconected the battery however all im getting is a white flashing light on the steam deck.

Austin Vidaurri -

I did this and upgraded my SSD. Put it all back together and plug the charger in.it worked. But now it want turn on until I plug in the charger Everytime.

Randy Newsom -

Go back to the BIOS and disable the battery storage option

pol blanco -

Passo 14

If you have a refreshed Steam Deck version with the black motherboard cover, skip this step.
Use a pair of tweezers to remove the piece of foil tape covering the hidden screw on the board shield.
If possible, try not to rip or tear this tape so it can be reused. If necessary, you can fashion a replacement by cutting a piece of aluminum foil tape to fit.

Use some heat here from a hairdryer to make this part easier.

If you screw up here you can replace the little aluminium square with some aluminium tape from Amazon. No less than 50 microns thick, slightly thicker is fine. and the square is 13mm both ways.

Matt S -

Thanks for that Matt, i destroyed the original tape and i had no solution since i read your comment.

Cihan Kocaman -

there are other new version of board shield from 2023.

Gorf Woo -

Is it alright to use the deck without the tape?

Jake -

You should not. This is EM shielding to protect your processor and ram from radio waves in the air

Andrew Borsje -

I found out my 3 Weeks new Steam Deck is a old Version... gg. Valve...

Miller Schiffer -

wenn ich aluminium foile benutze, womit soll ich sie dann verkleben?

Christian Dud -

If we have the new version with the black shield, how do we access the SSD?

James Bennett -

I need this part, does anyone know where to get it?

rolando norica -

PSA: The only purpose of steps 5–8 is to enable you to disconnect the battery, which is not essential. I skipped steps 5–8 and did not have any trouble with the repair.

David H -

How did you get access to the SSD without removing the shield?

Grizzly FoxCat -

Passo 15

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three screws securing the board shield:
One 3.4 mm screw
Two 3.7 mm screws
Only the two 3.7 mm screws along the left edge are present in refreshed Steam Decks.

The procedure ended here for me, used an ifixit PH 00 bit on the screw behind the aluminium tape, bit wouldnt bite too great, one wrong twist and the screw was stripped. Not sure who or what initially screwed in that particular screw as the rest of the screws on the shield were fine, but boy is it in there tight. So now i have a stripped screw and a botched ssd replacement, don't think valve will let me RMA for this, but i'll give it a try and update accordingly.

Y. van S -

Any updates? Did they let you RMA?

Emanuel Gjoni -

I found one screw to be ridiculously tight too, managed to undo it without stripping thanks to reading your comment beforehand and going extra careful. Not going to lie, it was a tense moment :D

Andy HL -

I'm stuck in the same place. I haven't fully stripped it, but I can tell you that if I try and make it budge it will strip. The thing is massively overtightened. The driver fit fine, the metal just gives way before the screw will budge.

Robert Boswell Johnson -

I think the tendency is to go too small on the screwdriver bits because you're working on small electronics.

I used the PH1 bit on the screw under the foil and the PH0 bit for the two remaining screws without any problems.

Charles Semple -

What does this shield actually do? Some kind of magnetic protection?

Corey Cleric -

if I had to replace the key (R2) and that's it, can I directly remove it or do I have to act here on the motherboard too?

pujattidanny -

have you gotten an answer yet? trying to change mines as well but dont wanna do too much to the deck

briaNN -

button Not key, i’m sorry

pujattidanny -

I used the ifixit tools and used the 00 PH for these screws with no issue

Luis B -

If only swapping the SSD, it is not necessary to remove the top left 3.7mm screw. The heat shield is flexible enough that you can move it out of the way to access the SSD screw. For me this was necessary as the 3.7mm screw was completely unmovable and quickly stripped.

Scott A -

FYI there is a little pin on the cover that slots into the board. It is located near the top screw. I needed that to be inserted for the cover to go back down properly.

Seth Robinson -

For anyone who may have stripped a 3.7mm screw, Steam Support states it's M1.6 diameter with a 0.35 thread pitch and a 3mm length. Hopefully that'll help anyone trying to locate a replacement screw. Hoping iFixIt can make an internal screws kit as they're kinda hard to find the right one online.

Michael Dyer -

Did valve change the shield recently as my new 64gb deck has a black shield with no hidden screw.

David Alexander Hubbard -

Yes there's a new hardware revision out there that some people are getting. Consider stopping at this point and putting your deck back together if you have one of these new hardware revisions (the fan is quite different as well to the pictures) until iFixit has an updated repair guide.

Simon M. -

There are only 2 screws now, but be careful taking the shield off, because there are still thermal pads under it sticking it to a heat pipe.

Rudolfs Skurulis -

Are they m2 3.7mm screws? I am looking to replace mine because they instantly stripped and I had to remove them with needle nose pliers because they were over tightened.

Nick -

I need this piece, can someone help me where can I find it please?

rolando norica -

Hi, is it possible to buy these shields somewhere? I am extremely interested in buying a replacement.

Yannick B. -

The refreshed model 1030 has 2 T6 torx screws instead of Philips

seaniepie -

Model 1030 is the OLED version, which we have separate guides for! See here: Steam Deck OLED

Carsten Frauenheim -

Black motherboard cover.

Used a J1 screw bit (JIS PH1) - super easy.

Also, thermal pads were only slightly sticky and looked perfect when I removed the cover.

I got the device the day before doing this task, plus it was still warm from me draining the battery with an intensive game.

bbmatt -

Passo 16

Remove the board shield.
Depending on the age of your Steam Deck, this shield may stick to the thermal pads underneath.
During reassembly, ensure that the fan cable lays on the side of the board shield and isn't pinched underneath.

When putting back on, run a pick along the edge of the shield between the wires to make sure nothing is pinching and the wires are clear of the shield before screwing down.

Matt S -

During reassembly, ensure that the fan cable lays on the side of the board shield and isn't pinched underneath.

Are you saying that the fan cable should be positioned above the board shield instead of being pressed down by it? Just like the image shows, where it 'lays on the side of the board shield'?

James -

Necesito esta pieza la mía no la traía se ve que se la quitaro

rolando norica -

Had no issue with the fan wires - they didn't budge at all when I took the cover off.

It's probably a case of being super careful and gentle to align the cover so you don't accidentally shift those wires.

bbmatt -

Passo 17

Grip the battery cable by its pull tab and pull it directly away from the motherboard to disconnect it.
Alternatively, use the flat end of a spudger or a clean fingernail to gently push the connector out of its socket, then disconnect it completely by hand.

After fully reassembling my device I found that my battery was not showing any stats anymore. I couldn't start the device without being plugged in, however if I restarted it would stay on even if my power cable was detached. Battery showed 0%. It turns out I had not fully reinserted the battery cable at this stage during reassembly. MAKE SURE YOU PUSH IT ALL THE WAY BACK IN!

Michael Hoffmann -

Awesome thanks for this tip!

petergeranio -

It is helpful to lift up gently with a the tapered end of a spudger underneath the tucked-in portion of the battery cable, creating a bit of flex in the cable before pulling on the pull tab. I found that without doing so, the fabric pull-tab simply tore off of the cable under light-to-moderate force (the fabric itself ripped cleanly across, like a paper towel). Careful, gentle pressure with a spudger can be used to remove the plug by prying gently on the rear ridge of the plastic plug (not the wire!) if this happens.

Gene Eckser - 08/08/22

This is exactly what happened to me. Maybe it was a pull tab previously, mine was a ribbon cable that tore - captured the image here: https://www.ianwootten.co.uk/2022/11/22/...

Ian Wootten -

This was the best approach (and I feel safest for the wiring) for me. Mostly push pressure on the plastic ridge with some minor pull tension on the fabric.

Victor -

To me too 😞

Dimitri Clicque -

I found it less scary and easier to remove the battery connection by using a fingernail on the ridge and pushing it off the connector. I felt like pulling on the battery cable was too harsh.

montgomery mchargue -

Yeah, pulling cables like these is usually ill advice. They might be fine if it's a new device, but for old devices that have been sitting there for years, there's a good chance the connector has grown brittle and the cable might just come off separately (something I learnt the hard way).

skzm -

I second this approach. For me, the cable felt way to flimsy and the connector wouldn't budge even under moderate force. Except I used the flat end of a spudger to "scrape" it out.

Misza -

Upon plugging the battery back in, I found it easy to use two spudgers- one on each side- to pull/push the connector back into it's port. Be careful to not put any pressure on the battery wires themselves.

montgomery mchargue -

When reconnecting the battery cable, you'll know when it's inserted and power is restored, because the white LED will illuminate at the top of the Deck near the power button. You should be able to see it while you're reconnecting the battery cable

Michael Davis -

This is only true if you haven't put the deck into battery storage mode as directed.

Ean Manley -

Why not just let the battery discharge completely and then not have to disconnect it?

Jeffrey Martin -

Completely discharging a battery reduces its lifespan. It's completely unnecessary.

Stefan Camporese (CENTER) - 12/11/22

Because no lipo battery is ever completely discharged -- you would not be able to recharge it if it was. There will always be enough power left in it to cause damage if shorted even if it isn't charged enough to power up the device it's connected to.

David Cameron -

I would personally not recommend pulling the tab. It doesn’t apply force at the correct angle. You should revise these instructions to advise using a combination of pulling on the tab, and careful pressure on the connector towards the right of the mainboard to carefully work it out.

Using the pull tab alone could cause problems if not done extremely carefully.

William Winborne - 09/01/23

This part was wayyyyy easier than I anticipated and I worried for nothing because I used the ifixit spudger to push it out a bit and then I literally used my finger nail and was able to slide it right off. Dont be afraid, its not that difficult and its not that delicate to break if you do it patiently

Luis B - 10/01/23

I inserted the cable very firmly with a spunger, being careful not to press down too hard on the cables, and even tried redoing it, but I don't see any LED illumination. I am now unable to boot the deck into the boot manager. Any additional tips?

junefish -

What is the risk of not unplugging the battery? Just curious!

Nick Hight -

Once I was changing termal paste on my Windows based expensive tablet PC... And I was so scared to disconnect any cables (there was many of them), so I did it all with battery connected (I didn't even knew where is battery cable). When I tried to put board shield back... it didn't go right into needed place... and short circuit some small component. It flashed. That was the end of my repair. Dudies from repair service later told me that multiple components fried including CPU, so repairing is too hard. That's what can happen if you don't disconnect battery.

bugwarlabs - 02/06/23

Very small if you are careful.

For other repairs of the deck, maybe it's a big deal.

For the replacement of the SSD? - I think the risk is MASSIVELY overstated here.

So long as you've discharged the battery down to 25%, put it in storage mode, are safely grounded and work gently and carefully, what's the big deal?

You can use your thumb and forefinger to apply the tiniest of pressures on the ssd to pull it out, with everything way away from the motherboard.

The ssd literally falls out with a gentle little tug.

If you must, use some tweasers.

I maintain that for many, if that battery cable is super tight, you run a bigger risk of doing damage by trying to get it off.

Only the totally hamfisted could screw this one up, seriously. You'd have to be an utter muppet to fry the motherboard when removing the SSD with the battery cable stil connected.

If you know you are not a muppet and your battery cable is crazy tight, like mine, be sensible and don't try and force it off.

Just leave the battery connected and be gentle.

bbmatt -

To pull the battery out I used my spunger, but the batter had actually not space to be pulled out completely. I needed to lift the cable up with the spunger to get the cable fully out. When plugging it in again I had to press the battery down kinda hard so it would fit again. This was really scary and I recommand using two spunger as someone said above.

Dollique -

Does it have to be a clean fingernail?

Steven Murphy -

I disagree with the order here: I think the battery should be disconnected right after step 4. You can do that before touching anything else by gently pulling the pull tab to the right.

If all you want to do is to disconnect and reconnect your battery (because your Steam Deck is not booting up... again...) then with a bit of finesse, luck and a flat plastic tool you can even push it back in without removing the shield. Make sure it went all the way back in.

Fozi -

Be very careful with this tab, it rips easily!

Tom Sid -

The connector is too hard to pull out only with the tab.

So I pushed the sides of the connector outwards gently with my nails.

There is no enough place to pull it entirely, so I used a thin screwdriver to Tilt it and push it out of the narrow space between the port and the battery. The tab also can help for this.

Estève Y -

Despite the warnings in these comments, I saw no reason to risk pulling out the battery cable vs leaving the battery connected.

Firstly, my cable was super tight, even a spudger wouldn't shift it.

I felt I had the potential to do more damage if the spudger slipped whilst I was attempting this.

Tried with my thumbnail, trying gently pulling the tab - it wasn't going to budge without a fight.

Looking across at the SSD, it was clear to me that as I'd put the battery into storage mode and as there was a single screw to remove plus the tiniest of tugs to get the SSD out and because replacing it was the reverse of that??

Why bother removing the battery cable?

Unless you are a ham fisted muppet with no proper tools and aren't safely grounded, I'd say the risk of removing the battery cable if it's super tight is greater.

Obviously if your cable is easy to remove, then it's the most sensible option.

bbmatt -

Passo 18

The right trigger will be on your left-hand side when working on the Steam Deck, as it's laying upside down.
The Steam Deck's triggers clip into place on two pegs on the trigger bracket, which doubles as the hinge.
Place the flat end of a spudger onto the inside edge of the trigger's right clip.
Pivot the trigger clip out, away, and up from the peg to unlatch it.
During reassembly, latch the outermost peg first. Once in place, push down on the trigger to latch the innermost peg, producing an audible "click" sound.
Check to make sure that the trigger spring is properly aligned. Test the trigger action before continuing reassembly.

This is unnecessary on the revised Model 1030 if you only need to access the Quick Access button. Jump to Step 13.

seaniepie -

Model 1030 is the OLED version, which we have separate guides for! See here: Steam Deck OLED

Carsten Frauenheim -

Passo 19

Remove the right trigger.
Take care to not lose the trigger spring. It press-fits onto a peg on the trigger's underside.

This is by far the hardest part of the entire assembly. I don't know if its because I dropped mine but the trigger takes an incredible amount of force to get off, don't be afraid to break it. I still have no idea how to put the trigger back on, it just wont budge.

J4CK T -

In case the spring gets lost, it's 19 mm long with about 14 coils.

Claudiu Avram -

Thank you this is helpful

reconbot -

When putting this back on be sure to note the instructions for reassembly above. Catch the outer peg, align the inner one, and push. Having a flashlight on the inner peg helped me get it lined up.

Aaron Newton -

Passo 20

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 5.2 mm screws securing the right trigger bracket.

Passo 21

Remove the right trigger bracket.
Replacement triggers require calibration to work as expected. To calibrate new triggers, follow this calibration guide.

The right bumper button on my switch deck stopped working after the deck was accidentally dropped from 5ft. When I got to this step of the instructions, I was able to see that the momentary switch that the button triggers had been bent backwards from the impact, making it difficult for the button to trigger the switch. I bent the switch back to its original position, which fixed the mechanical problem. Unfortunately the solder joints for the switch cracked when I pressed the switch forward. I re-flowed the solder joints with a tiny Weber iron that I filed down to a narrow point. The button works properly now.

Paul Krakow -

Passo 22

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the thumbstick cable's ZIF connector.
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
Grip the cable by the blue pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Passo 23

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 5.2 mm screws securing the thumbstick.
During reassembly, you may need to hold the Steam Deck off of the work surface so it isn't resting on the new thumbstick while you tighten down the screws.

This is unnecessary if you only need to access the Quick Access button on the revised Model 1030. Jump to step 16.

seaniepie -

Model 1030 is the OLED version, which we have separate guides for! See here: Steam Deck OLED

Carsten Frauenheim -

Passo 24

Remove the right thumbstick.

Passo 25

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the button board cable's ZIF connector.
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
Grip the cable by the blue pull tab, not by the cable itself.

On the revised Model 1030 it is all black and you will need to raise the ribbon slightly to remove it. Don’t just try to pull it backwards as there is a notched retainer.

seaniepie -

Passo 26

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the button board interconnect cable's ZIF connector.
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
Grip the cable by the blue pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Be very mindful of this cable during re-assembly, if this cable isn't fully seated properly the deck will turn on slowly and not be able to recognize any inputs besides the touch screen.

Peter Lindberg -

Hmm, I wonder if this is my problem. I replaced my case with the Clear JSAUX one. Everything went fairly well, until I closed it up and noticed none of my buttons worked anymore. By "seated properly", how do you tell? When I look at it, it looks the same as the picture, with the white line showing

Eric Merriweather -

Eric, flip up the white locking flap and remove the cable. Then reinsert the cable — it should go in smoothly with no resistance, hence its name (ZIF = "Zero Insertion Force") — if you feel resistance, there might be something blocking the cable or its connection. If it slides in smoothly, make sure it bottoms out evenly and isn't at an odd angle. If everything looks good, your problem is probably elsewhere.

Carsten Frauenheim -

Bonjour quelqu'un serait ou acheter cette nappe seule je l'ai cassé

Maxime -

Passo 27

If any connectors are covered with tape, use a pair of tweezers to remove it.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flaps on the rest of the button board ZIF connectors. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cables out of their connectors:
Disconnect the action buttons cable.
Disconnect the touchpad board cable.
Disconnect the touchpad cable.

Be especially careful disconnecting and reconnecting the touchpad cable. It is short and can pull out on the touchpad side fairly easily. Reconnecting it requires splitting open the touchpad itself which is difficult to do without damaging the springs.

acey_zero -

Passo 28

Exercise caution when lifting this connector—pry up on the connector itself, not its housing.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up on the haptics cable to disconnect it.
Alternatively, you can leave the haptics connected to the button board and flip the board up and over the edge of the shell and out of the way.

Personally, i think this should just be a suggested step, since the connector is different and requires more force to disconnect than the ribbon cable connectors and you can leave this connected and lay the board over to the side without disconnecting this and still access the buttons.

Peter Lindberg -

I agree with Peter on this. I tried fixing my right bumper before ordering a replacement and during disassembly I followed these instructions exactly and still broke the bracket that holds the haptics connector. Luckily my haptics seem to still be working after putting it back together but I have a feeling it will disconnect on its own after some time and I will be needing a whole new button board.

Biscuits -

I did this very carefully and the bracket still broke

Christian McCarthy -

I broke the down part of the bracket as well. Glued it back on with some crazy glue applied with a wooden toothpick (to make sure to not touch anything else). Haptics still working. Next time I don't think I'll remove that connector.

Sébastien M -

Leave the haptic connector on and just move the button board out of the way. You will likely brake the haptic connector bracket by trying to remove it.

Frank -

I agree with everyone above. Attempting to disconnect the haptics is not worth it as it breaks extremely easily

Vince Gmerek -

Please remove this step. It is virtually impossible to remove this without breaking the housing and it's ultimately not necessary.

Eric Benante -

Wish I had seen this beforehand. My right connector just broke off. Ughhh.

Eric Merriweather -

This also screwed up my haptics as it basically fell apart as soon as it was touched

Cassie -

Can this just be soldered back on or do I need a new button board? Because I have looked online and they seem impossible to find.

Eric Merriweather -

Passo 29

Use a Phillips driver to disconnect the four screws securing the right button board:
Three 5.2 mm screws
One 3.9 mm screw

Once again, for the revised Model 1030, all of these screws are T6 of varying sizes, nothing like the original. Use your favourite way of keeping track of where to return the screws in their correct holes.

seaniepie -

Model 1030 is the OLED version, which we have separate guides for! See here: Steam Deck OLED

Carsten Frauenheim -

Passo 30

Remove the right button board.
Keep track of the quick access button and its membrane, as once the right button board is removed, they're no longer secured in place.

Und wo kann ich die Ersatzplatine kaufen?

Ralf Fachet -

Passo 31

Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 5.2 mm screws securing the right bumper assembly.

My wife and I just were just struggling with putting the button board back in after replacing our right bumper. If you find your face buttons are smooshy or things aren’t lining up right, try this:

The button board has two holes that are meant to line up with two prongs on the piece beneath it. Make sure both are properly situated. One is just north of the thumbstick hole; the other (the one that gave us trouble!) is on the lower left, next to the ribbon cable.

Mike -

Thank you for this tip.

Trevor van Rooyen -

Passo 32

Remove the right bumper assembly.

When reassembling, there is a small tab along the outer edge that you should lead with. It goes directly under the small tab that locks the casing in place. Angle it in and the part should easily slide onto the placement post.

tunaSuprise -

Thank you! Was struggling

Reed Hingst -

Ok so I dropped my Baby on its right bumper by accident first drop ever. Well point being my R1 button is not as responsive as it should be. So, I purchased a new R1 button now I am starting to wonder if maybe I messed up a screw-in prong on the actual button board. Can I order that new as well?

sgtkickazzttv - 09/06/23

Passo 33

The bumper button clips into its bracket with plastic tabs.
Lift the button up and away from the bracket to unclip the topmost plastic tab.
Disconnect the rest of the plastic tabs to remove the button.
Take care to not lose the button spring.
During reassembly, hook the button in at the spring end first, then pull the topmost clip up and over into position on the bracket.

I got the steam deck super early so I may have a slightly different variant of the bumper. The top springy arm part is slightly longer and screws in farther away by the battery assembly. It seems like the new replacement part is designed better in a way that it springs back better and doesn't rely on the top arm to spring back, so it's OK.

Ilya Seletsky - 12/06/25

Steam Deck - Ultra Battery

Introdução

Ferramentas

Passo 1

Passo 2

Passo 3

Passo 4

Passo 5

Passo 6

Passo 7

Passo 8

Passo 9

Passo 10

Passo 11

Passo 12

Passo 13

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Passo 17

Passo 18

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Passo 20

Passo 21

Passo 22

Passo 23

Passo 24

Passo 25

Passo 26

Passo 27

Passo 28

Passo 29

Passo 30

Passo 31

Passo 32

Passo 33

Autor(a)

Global Citizens

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