Sonos Roam Inner Circuit Board Replacement

Escrito Por: Lauren Young

Comentários: 24

Sonos Roam Inner Circuit Board Replacement

Dificuldade

Moderate

Passos

Tempo necessário

35 minutes

Introdução

If your Sonos Roam is unresponsive, having problems turning on, not staying on, and you have already tried replacing the outer circuit board then use this guide to replace the inner circuit board.

This circuit board is responsible for sending signals to the entire device. This means it is in charge of connectivity, charging, and audio for the Sonos Roam.

Before using this guide, try rebooting your Sonos Roam.

There are steps that recommend (not require) the use of the iOpener. This will help with carefully removing the adhesive used to keep this device together. Refer to this link on how to properly use the iOpener.

Ferramentas

Passo 1

Power off your Sonos Roam before beginning disassembly.
Use the metal spudger to pry the end cap with the buttons.
Pry from all sides to loosen the adhesive.
Use the iOpener, a blowdryer, or a similar heating device to loosen the adhesive if having difficulty.

What about IP67 rating? Am I going to lose the water resistance rating if I do not reapply some glue or additional adhesive when reassembling things back?

Askar -

Passo 2

Flip the device to the other end cap.
Use the metal spudger to loosen the adhesive.
Use the iOpener, a blowdryer, or a similar heating device to loosen the adhesive if having difficulty.

Passo 3

Flip the device so that the Sonos logo is on the top.
Use the Torx T6 screwdriver to remove the two 6 mm screws.

my sonos roam sl used t7 screws here

Arndt Kurek -

Passo 4

Flip the device.
Use the Torx T6 screwdriver to remove the two 6 mm screws.

Passo 5

Flip the device so the Sonos logo is on the top.
Use the iFixit opening picks to wedge between the split of the grille and the back of the speaker to pry the grille apart.
Use the iOpener, a blowdryer, or a similar heating device to loosen the adhesive if having difficulty.

wichtig darauf zu achten, dass nicht versehentlich nur das dünne 1mm Gitter abgelöst wird sondern das dünne Gitter an dem dicken Gitter (oben und unten jeweils etwa 12mm) bleibt.

CK1 -

Passo 6

Use the TR10 Torx screwdriver to remove the six 7 mm screws.

Passo 7

Begin to carefully separate the speaker module from the device.
Firmly squeeze the middle of the plug using the tweezers to pull it out of the socket.
Separate the speaker module from the device.

Should mention there is a latch that holds the connector in place. You need to depress the latch to release the connector, otherwise you may struggle trying to pry it from the edges. Depress the latch instantly releases the connector.

Aaron Lai -

Passo 8

Use the TR10 Torx screwdriver to remove the four 7 mm screws.

Passo 9

Use the tweezers to flip the latch holding the large ribbon in place.
Grab the large ribbon with the tweezers and pull upwards to remove it.
Use the tweezers to flip the latch holding the small ribbon in place.
Grab the small ribbon with the tweezers and pull upwards to remove it.

A diagram of how the latch works would be helpful as well as the photo

Neil Makaroff -

Yes, this is a key unaddressed point. Flip which part of the latch in which direction??????

joehuber -

When re-assembling, I used tweezers to put the ribbons in place. The ribbons have keys that stick out, and the ribbon must be far enough toward the latch for the ribbons' keys to be past the notches on the white-ish mount point. With the ribbon mostly flat, I closed the latch. Everything is working.

Matt Burke -

It turns out that what needs to be done is to approach the large connector from the right on a path perpendicular to the edge of the case with a fine point tool, like a tweezer or small screwdriver. Put the tip just under the edge of the grey bar and flip it up and to the left. It moves very easily and releases the flat large cable.⏎
⏎
Approach the small connector from the left and flip its grey bar up and to the right.

joehuber -

Passo 10

Grab the metal piece sticking out of the outer circuit board.
Pull upwards to remove the outer circuit board.

Passo 11

Soldering Iron is very hot and can cause injury if not used properly.
Use a soldering iron to desolder the outer circuit board from the speaker casing.

is it necessary to desolder the board to replace the battery? it appears subsequent steps just push it to the side...

Daniel Rodriguez - 28/03/24

Same here, not sure if that is a necessary step to replace the battery

Askar -

I made the repair without soldering. Works without any problem

Ze si -

Same here. No need to desolder

Neil Makaroff -

Do not de-solder the board, no need.

See all you tube videos, none do that.

I’m not going to, just pry, unscrew, blow dry when you feel you’re forcing, unclip,

Reclip, re snap, re screw, charge and listen and go tell sonos to eff themselves.

robert stellato -

Passo 12

Use the TR10 Torx screwdriver to remove the four 7 mm screws.

Passo 13

Use the tweezers to firmly squeeze the middle of the plug.
Pull the plug out to remove it from its socket.
Remove the battery from the device.

Passo 14

Use the iFixit opening tool to pry the battery out of its casing.
Use the iOpener, blowdryer, or a similar heating device to loosen the adhesive if having difficulty.

I used the iOpener plastic cards to shove between the battery and the case on both sides to break the adhesive.

Matt Burke -

Passo 15

Remove the battery from its casing.

Step 11 is optional. There is no need to unsolder the circuit board to get the battery out, you can pry the cable off and move the board out of the way while it is still attached to the case.

Kristoffer Rydquist -

Agree with prior comment, did not unsolder wire and still completed successful battery change.

FYI, my Sonos battery most probably failed as the charger was not sufficient power. This was not in any literature but Sonos help line stated minimum power needed.

Paul Ukrainetz -

I also agree that step 11 is unnecessary. No need to unsolder anything, just carefully flip the board out of the way. This lead is going to one of the antennas, so I would not want to deal with resoldering this micro-coax. Hardest part is dealing with all the adhesive.

Matt Schirmacher - 25/07/24

Bravo pour les explications très claires, précise et bien illustrées !! Il est vrai que dessouder le fil n'est pas nécessaire .. de si quelqu'un peut dire à SONOS qu'un petit interrupteur à pression serait bien utile pour un hard reset des enceintes plutot que de devoir démonter les batteries :-)

Teran -

und wo bekommt man die Ersatzakkus bzw. welche Bezeichnung muss man suchen?

Marion Wuethrich -

Den Akku gibt es bei Amazon. Link: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0CJFP5VK6?ref=...

Joe Urs -

Thank you very much for this repair guide. My Roam plays like he did on day one. :-)

Joe Urs -