Retina MacBook 2016 Trackpad Assembly Replacement

Passo 1

Before proceeding, unplug and power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.
Remove the following eight screws securing the lower case:
Two 1.8 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
Four 2.9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
Two 6.1 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
Note the orientation of the screws as you remove them—they need to be reinstalled at a slight angle.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

IMPORTANT. You’re not removing the bottom, yet. This step is solely to separate the panel from its clips, permitting inside access.

Chris Leeds - 30/04/18

The screws go in tangent to the curve of the case. If you aren’t used to handling small hardware try turning the screw counterclockwise while you feel for the hole until you feel it drop, that means the threads have aligned. It takes only light finger torque when they are threaded correctly

abscate - 27/02/20

Can you please show a picture of all the screws, and where they go? My table got bumped and all the screws stuck to the lid magnet on the MacBook. Gaaaah! Thank you!

TwiddledUp -

A few comments before you start, from me just after I finished.

1. The "adhesive remover" is acetone. Handle it as you would acetone. I'm somewhat annoyed at iFixit that they treat us like kids. Tell us what things are and why they are dangerous.

2. There are two ways to do this removal. One where you remove the logic board, and one where you don't. The instructions here are for removing the board. If you don't remove it, I think the danger is that you damage it while removing the battery, either because of force involved, or that you platter some of the acetone on it. The danger if you do remove it is that it involves removing many very fragile cables. You will surely damage some, the question is only if you damage something important. So take a choice, neither is very good.

(i'll continue below)

Michael Lachmann Tamarlin -

3. When you get to the battery removal step, you are supposed to just put "a few drops of ACETONE", and let them act for 2-3 minutes. That did nothing in my case. I can't give you very good advice on how to do it well, since I didn't. But I drowned it in acetone, and let it act for much longer, and it still was very hard to remove. I think I damaged a battery. Lucky that it was totally empty. I would also prepare another pair of gloves -- they get covered in disolved glue, which the becomes sticky again.

4. When inserting the battery, take especially care to align the hole in the board of the battery with the round screw hole. If these don't align, you won't be able to close the computer.

5. I wish they did more explicit reverse instructions, especially on some of the steps, since some don't reverse very cleanly. Check this video for some of those: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FKbb_el6....

6. You don't need to reverse the step of pressing the gold button! After installing the battery, it should work.

Michael Lachmann Tamarlin -

Is it necessary to REMOVE the battery if I’m just replacing the screen?

Jeff Rutkowski -

Passo 2

Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case, starting from the rear of the MacBook between the hinges.
Lift the lower case only slightly to avoid damaging the cables that connect the lower case to the upper case.
Keeping a firm grip, lift steadily until the lower case separates slightly from the upper case.
You may experience a lot of resistance when lifting the lower case. If necessary, slide an opening pick or other ESD-safe pry tool down the side edges of the lower case to pop the two hidden retaining clips free.
During reassembly, to re-engage the clips, press firmly near both side edges of the lower case (near where the pick is inserted in the third image) until you hear the clips snap into place.

Passo 3

While holding the lower case in place, carefully flip the MacBook over so the Apple logo faces up.

Passo 4

Lift the upper case and display together from the front edge and raise it to about a 45˚ angle.
It may be helpful to prop the MacBook open in this position for the next step.

This displays two black pics to prop up the MacBook, but the kit only includes one black pic.

Kyle Swafford -

Passo 5

Use the flat end of a spudger to press and hold the small gold 'battery disconnect' button.
If the power LED is lit up, continue holding the button until the LED goes dark, and then release. This may take up to 10 seconds.
If the LED does not light, release the button after 5-10 seconds. Press and hold it again for 5-10 seconds, and release. Finally, press and hold it a third time for 5-10 seconds, and release.
This step ensures the MacBook is fully powered down and safe to work on.

cannot turn on the led after replacing the new screen, even after following the turn on instructions upper…

Laurent Pierre - 07/10/18

on reassembly, I had to plug my laptop in to reactivate the LED light

aaron_vandyke2003 - 09/04/19

Does anyone know how to turn it back on..? I plugged the laptop in and saw the LED Light, but it won’t turn on

mmcsorley - 17/04/19

After reassembly I could not restart my MacBook using the power button or after SMC reset (shift-ctrl-option-pwr). I had to connect my MacBook to its charging cable to get the battery LED to re-illuminate. After that it was all normal.

Richard Lovatt - 18/09/19

It took a few minutes on the power adapter for my computer to turn on after it was reassembled.

Luk Chl - 09/02/20

mine doesnt turn on w anything, i forgot to click the buton to disconnect :_/

cristian.campuzano - 16/06/20

Same issue as above peeps. Followed ifixit directions verbatim and wasn't getting anything after screwing everything back in. Plugged in original 45W power block and waited, after few minutes battery LED came on and a min. or two after that, was able to get screen to turn on. Hope this helps somebody else.

Brandon Elliott - 21/07/20

May I ask how to get screen to turn on. I cannot get it work..

Xiubo Zhang - 19/12/20

For those whose Mac won't turn on.

See step 16

To reconnect this cable, first line up the metal bracket over the screw holes, then "PRESS DOWN" on the middle of the bracket.

There is a connector under the bracket, which you can't see if you don't see under.

Not having it in mind, you will not PRESS DOWN the middle of the bracket and there is no connect.

hls2005 -

Thank you @Xiubo Zhang - This solved my problem! Please everyone check this connector if you have trouble turning your Macbook on after replacing the battery.

Miksu -

There needs to be mention of procedure for getting the repaired MacBook to power up again after the repair is completed.

I also am running into the issue described by others. MB will not come on again, even after being plugged into power and performing an SMC reset.

Kinda stuck….

Carlos Perez - 05/04/21

Hi, I tried everything and my MacBook will not start up after replacing the bottom case with a battery installed. I decided to put back on the old case with the battery that needs servicing and it still will not power on. I am fairly experienced taking apart laptops I was an Apple service tech for 15 years. this has me baffalled. Any hints BTY the logic board does not show any power coming from the AC charger the power LED is not lit up

eestern -

I had trouble with this as well. What worked for me is to plug in power using the stock 29W USB C power brick that originally came with this Macbook. Trying other, lower powered, power adapters did not work. Use this advice with caution as there are multiple (i.e substantiated) comments that indicate that first power up should only be with a 5W adapter! So perhaps try this strict sequence: try with a 5W adapter, then and only then try with the 29W adapter. Or even slightly better, if everything else has completely failed, only then try full power 29W adapter.

LexxOne -

How long did you wait to get it power back on? I replaced my logic board and tried to connect the power charger but it doesnt still turn on.

Herb -

The easiest error to make when working on this motherboard if applying full voltage after re-assembly. According to the big A, the motherboard on these Macbooks need to be “woken up” with a 5 watt (phone size) charger. Applying the normal 29 watts may render your system unusable.

Noah - Feb 18, 2021

Hello Noah,

It seems your remark is only valid for the 2015 and not the 2016 edition.

David - Mar 3, 2021

While it’s true that the internal documentation specifies this for a 2015, after frying 2 motherboards with a normal charger, I spoke with the engineers and they told me that this also applies to 2016 and 2017 macbook main logic boards. I say- It can’t hurt to try to wake them up with a 5 watt charger first! Please take 5 minutes to save your motherboard.

Noah - Mar 4, 2021

Noah -

I plugged in my charger and the LED came on. The computer gets warm but the screen is not turning on. The keyboards doesn’t seem to respond to recovery options. Any suggestions?

J'Trel Sapp -

Hello in muy case the power LED does not go dark (off) . Holding more than 10 sec and nothing. Somebody?

Flavio - 17/03/23

The led light doesn’t turn off on mine either. Held for 10 sec 3 times and still on. How do I turn it off now? And will it damage the computer if I work on it with the light on?

sfalba -

Also, which way should the track pad flex cable face when reinstalling it?

sfalba -

When I try to restart, I see the battery symbol flash on the screen. It shows 100% (hooray?) but then never boots up.

paul0 -

After reassembly I could not restart my MacBook using the power button or after SMC reset (shift-ctrl-option-pwr). I had to connect my MacBook to its charging cable to get the battery LED to re-illuminate. After that it was all normal.

I had basically this when doing a screen replacement (and the ZIF connector ribbon which basically crumbled to dust as I touched it). Including no sound, no light, no boot, no logos, I had a USB connected sound once when plugging it into my windows PC which i guess confirmed it wasnt totally fried, but I had left it plugged in to a few different chargers (not the 20w or whatever one since I read it could damage it if it was not powering normally. could be total BS) and had it sit from 15-30 minutes on each. all nearly no sign of life, though one re-disassembly showed the previously unlit power LED was on again. I went to let it sit on the officical charger overnight thinking it was dead, but it just randomly booted and is working fine now. TLDR be patient with apples BS.

MrRooter forthewin - 28/03/24

Mine wouldn’t switch on at all, completely dead. I tried all tricks in the comments here, nothing worked. I expected the battery was completely gone because it had been sitting on a shelf for months. Upon checking the voltage directly on the battery pads, zero volts measured. So I assumed the battery management was preventing the laptop from switching on.

To overcome this I tried carefully heating the battery with a heat gun, which raised the voltage to 2.2 Volts. Then I decided as a last resort to put the whole laptop in the oven at 70 degrees C. It worked! Plugging in the charger a few times after the laptop had cooled somewhat, it switched on and started charging as normal, to 100%.

Toon van Duin -

Passo 6

Close the MacBook and carefully flip it upside-down.

Passo 7

Lifting from the front edge, open the lower case to an angle of about 45°.
Take care not to damage the ribbon cables that still attach the lower case to the MacBook.

Passo 8

Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the trackpad cable ZIF connector.

Where can I find a replacement cable?

John Comix - 10/03/20

Just worked on one that was missing the tape from the factory, so yours may not have it either.

maccentric -

that cable got damaged, and now my macbook won't turn on anymore. Does this cable prevent the macbook from working?

ITZ CRONOMO -

I have the same issue. Th trackpad cable snapped while I was replacing the LCD screen. I have ordered a new cable from Amazon but I am not sure if that would cause the laptop to not power up (it's not power related)

Raj Venkat -

My trackpad doesn’t really click (almost no sound/movement) after I replaced the battery.

Any pointers on what I need to do to get it clicking again. Like tighten screws inside or something? Cheers!

TwiddledUp -

Passo 9

Use a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector.

The small retainer flips up about 90 degrees from locked position

abscate - 27/02/20

The keyboard and trackpad don't work after the repair, what can I do? They don't even show up in System Report.

bredelet -

I found that the connector was not pushed enough in. Works now.

bredelet -

I flipped up the small retainer -- but when I tried to flip it down, it flew off. The tabs that mount the retainer are very small, and I couldn't get it back on. Left it out, taped down the cable.... and so far the computer, battery, and trackpad are working.

Bessel Sphere -

Passo 10

Disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable from the trackpad by pulling it gently through its slot in the frame.

Passo 11

Carefully close the MacBook and flip it over once again, so that the Apple logo faces up.
Lifting from the front edge, raise the upper case/display assembly to about a 90° angle, and prop it up against something sturdy so you don't have to hold it.
Add a piece of tape near the track pad to secure the upper case and prevent accidental movement.
It's possible to open the MacBook all the way and lay both sides down flat, but this may damage the flex cables and is not recommended.

Passo 12

Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

From my experience it’s important to carefully press and hold the small button above left of the Battery Discharge label. Use a plastic spudger or finger tip. The illuminated yellow LED to the right will go off. I believe this discharges remaining electricity from logic board protecting it during repair.

* I cannot find any documentation to support this, but I have damaged boards by not including this step.

Chris Leeds - 30/04/18

I don't know what guide your on, but step 6 of the guide to replacing the USB-C cable has you press this button (3 times even).

maccentric -

What is with the all plastic end of this cable that appears to just be glued right on top of its connector?

Does the new one just stick back right on top?

(In this photo it is the bottom side of the cable below the white water indicator sticker)

Elizabeth Erkelens - 18/04/19

Passo 13

As an added precaution, you may physically disconnect the battery by inserting a battery isolation pick between the logic board and the battery connector.

What happen if you don’t disconnect the battery? I didn’t and I saw smoke coming out when I connected the pad flex cable and the computer still started up

DSANTIAGOSOY - 31/03/19

If you don’t disconnect the battery you might accidentally short something on the logic board since power is still running through everything while you’re working on it. You can complete the repair without disconnecting the battery, but you risk accidentally breaking your logic board. It’s much safer to keep the battery disconnected while you’re working.

Adam O'Camb - 03/04/19

Passo 14

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the tape covering the keyboard ribbon cable connector on the trackpad.

Passo 15

Using a spudger, flip open the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF connector.

Passo 16

Gently pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its slot in the frame.

Passo 17

Remove the five 2.5 mm T3 Torx screws securing the trackpad to the case.

This may require a T4 for the MacBook Retina early 2015. A T3 was too small, but this machine already had a replacement keyboard and body due to Apple recall. Just be aware.

Neal Abrams - 29/01/19

I should read this comment. I think my Mac Book have T4 screws. Thanks a lot.

GOCHI MOTOHIRO - 12/10/20

2015 here also had t4

Greg Lavardera -

Passo 18

Hinge open the display just slightly to free the trackpad assembly from the upper case, and remove the trackpad assembly.
Metal brackets on each side of the trackpad may fall away during removal. Be sure to position them as shown in the photo during reassembly.