Introdução

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    • Push down on the screw to depress the spring loaded hinge and release the door.

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    • Remove six 5.3 mm #00 screws.

    • Remove one 3.4 mm #00 screw.

    • The short screw has a machine thread and screws into the plate underneath. The rest screw into the plastic body.

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    • Remove three 5.3 mm #00 screws (the bottom-most screw is not always present).

    • Remove one 7.3 mm #00 screw.

    • Remove the remote trigger cover.

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    • Remove one 3.4 mm #00 screw.

    • Remove two 5.3 mm #00 screw.

    • Gently lift up on the flash housing to help remove the cover if necessary.

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    • Remove two 3.9 mm #00 screws.

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    • Remove two 3.4 mm #00 screws. Remove the plate holding the contacts in place.

    • Peel tape from the plate. Leave the tape attached to the flex circuit.

    • Remove the flex circuits from their retaining studs.

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    • Remove one 3.3 mm #0 countersunk screw.

    • Remove one 3.9 mm #0 shoulder screw.

    • Remove four 3.3 mm #00 screws.

    • Pull a little slack through the housing on this flex cable.

    • Pop the plate off its posts, rotate slightly clockwise and pull gently through the loosened flex cable.

    • To the camera tech that left me a happy little note...I see you.

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    • It's best to remove these parts now so they don't fall out later on in the repair.

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    • Gently pull the speaker from its retention posts.

    • Remove two 5.1 mm #00 screws.

    • Installation Notes: The transport gear carrier mates with the sprocket shaft here using a squared off spindle. Make sure they mate properly when reassembled.

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    • Remove one X mm screw.

    • The screw has atypical threads with a very steep angle. It will want to move in/out with relatively little rotation.

    • Unsolder one purple wire.

    • Unsolder one yellow wire.

Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Sam Gustafson

Membro desde: 02/09/22

10623 Reputação

4 comentários

I replaced that pcb component,but these gaps are not stable. Sometimes wide sometimes overlap.Do you have any solutions about this problem?

zhong liu -

Hmm, that's a bummer. First I would make sure that your replacement PCB looks like this. The green color isn't important but the contacts should be gold not silver.

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/8-fi...

You might have to double check the installation, make sure no debris or hairs got in the mechanism. Make sure the sweepers didn't get bent or misshapen.

I will say that the converted camera may not give you perfect results. I usually get about one frame overlap per roll, but the vast majority of frames are good. It's not uncommon for even stock MZ cameras to have frame advance issues, so it might be related to the mod or it might not.

Sam Gustafson -

I solved it! Although the gap is unstable but it has some rhythm. Also! There is no overlap anymore!

zhong liu -

My pcb component is silver,not gold.I think it might caused by the film mask which is cut from instaxfilm cover.Maybe too thick that can’t properly advancing film.I will try to stick it direct in the full frame area.hhhhhhh hopefully might help,otherwise I have to get some gold pcb….

zhong liu -