Nintendo Switch Headphone Jack and Game Card Board Replacement

Passo 1

Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.
Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.
While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

Kann ich diese Anleitung auch für die OLED anwenden? Habe im INet sonst leider nichts brauchbares gefunden.

Ina Barz -

backup all your sd card data i had to format mine after this tutorial and lost all my game data

JustForThisComment?ComeOn -

do not watch the video! i broke the metal shielding on my switch because they didn't mention a screw!!!

Macro Man -

Passo 2

Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it's completely removed from the console.
Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con.

Passo 3

Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
If you do happen to strip one of the four 6.3 mm-long Y00 screws, If you are lucky and careful, you may be able to use a Y0 bit to remove the screw(s). Please note that if you do attempt this, a bit of extra pressure will need to be applied to the screwdriver so that the screwdriver bit catches the screw.
If you do end up removing the stripped screw with this method, PLEASE do not reuse the screw again and instead replace the screw.

Had to use a Y0 from my kit - the Y00 was too small to get a grip on the screw.

cday - 05/06/21

I also had a much easier time with Y0 versus Y00. Y00 felt like it was starting to strip the first screw I tried to remove.

Joe -

My screws took a little coaxing before they were all ready to come out of the back plate, but I remedied this by turning the screwdriver as little as possible with each turn. Use almost no pressure, except for at the very beginning of each screw’s first turn.

nin10doh -

I think my screws are stripped, any way to get them out?

Banjomanperson -

I hear that using a rubber band can help? Not 100% sure on that though.

Pifase -

My top 2 screws are stripped, one into triangle, the other circle, rather than triangle spokes.

AndrewDaPro -

This happened when I replaced the micro-sd card slot, which turned out to have replaced the broken one with another one that turns out to be broken. I need to fix the fact that when I reapplied the back cover, the vent was misaligned.

AndrewDaPro -

I had huge problems removing the bottom two screws. I continued with the next steps and lifted the plastic shell as much as possible while using the screwdriver and it became an ease.

JustForThisComment?ComeOn -

y0 works best. Press HARD at beginning then ease off to finish.

J LWsMommy -

what to do if your screw is stripped??

suru -

I haven't tried neither solutions that I am gonna propose here but

1. Poor some Isopropyl Alcohol, one small drop will do, get a piece of cotton (not any clothing) and dip it in the Isopropyl Alcohol, apply and then try to get a grip with tweezers and turn it out

OR (I do not reccomend it since it can cause huge damage if done wrong)

2. Grab a small drill and drill through the screw. Keep in mind; the screw is very small.

If you do one of these and it goes wrong, I am not responsible for that.

DongComArts -

I had to file down the point of the y00 bit. As it came, I was not able to get the back screws out. It would just slip in the screw.

Dave -

Y1.5 is correct, perfect fit.

Orpheus -

this is so difficult the screwdriver doesnt help AT ALL

Issa - 29/01/25

One of my screws was unremovable, so I gently turned the cover so the full place was available and that worked.

FonZ wayne -

Y00 was perfect for me.

William Blondel -

Passo 4

Use a JIS 00 driver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel:
One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device
Two 2.5 mm-long screws on the bottom edge of the device
To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly, and try another JIS 00 driver if the screws won't come out. Make sure the driver is fully inserted.
You can use a Phillips #000 screwdriver in a pinch, but you risk damaging or stripping the screws. Push down firmly on the screwdriver and twist slowly. Often, switching drivers may help, even if they are the same size.

Hey guys, I tried removing the upper screw and it won't go out(neither will it go in) any tips how to fix this?

Thanks

Nemysis - 27/03/21

The screw boss might be stripped out. Has the device been taken apart before? If you can unscrew it a little bit to get the screw to peek out, maybe try and grab it with some pliers as a last-ditch effort.

Craig Lloyd - 29/03/21

I have the same problem. The JIS 000 tool works great on the joy con rails per step 5 but refuses to turn the bottom two 2.5 mm screws as in step 4. These bottom screws are noticeably smaller than the screws as in step 5. The JIS 000 does not get down into these screws. Hopefully they haven’t been stripped by the wrong tool. So is there a JIS tool that is smaller than 000? I’m stuck at this point…

david brown - 28/04/21

We used the JIS 3.0mm screwdriver for both top and bottom screws and it worked

Brooklyn Gardner - 07/05/21

Used PH00 to get these out with no problem.

cday - 05/06/21

Fun fact: these screw into little plastic tabs that stick out of the rear panel. Apparently those tabs are fragile and easy to just break off…

Benjamin Fritz -

If the screw is turning but not coming out, the plastic tab that it screws into is probably damaged or broken. You’ll need to try to pry the screw out with tweezers as you unscrew it. It is not the end of the world if you can’t screw these back in during reassembly.

claudio ocano -

My screws came out fine. But they are easily stripped with too much pressure on reassmbly

Jaxon Lee -

this screws are way too fragile and way too small so be careful when taking them off dont use much force and unscrew also one of them fell somewhere and spent 30 mins searching for it

Richard Aguirre -

PH000 will work if you don’t have JIS000. The large IFIXIT kit has both and I lost JIS000. Just be very careful as you can strip the heads when removing or inserting easier.

Shawn Spivey -

One thing that worked pretty well for me with the screws not coming out is slightly prying on the back cover to put them under some tension

Florian Kraupa -

I just came here to also confirm and say thanks to Florian for the tip. This saved me a lot of time and frustration.

Jon Nielsen -

Quick note, these screws are not magnetic. A magnetic screwdriver will hold onto any of the others safely, but you need to be careful not to drop these ones in particular.

Jason Lane -

These would just keep rotating and not come out. What worked was, as Florian Kraupa suggested, i slid a plastic pick just between the 2 shells near the screws to prise it open slightly, then unscrewed and out they came. They're the smallest screws I've ever almost not seen before, so be careful with them.

Susannah Carter -

Der Tausch von Akku (separate Anleitung) und Lüfter ging einfach vonstatten. Die Anleitung ist echt gut und leicht verständlich. Man sollte aber gewohnt sein, mit extrem kleinen Anschlüssen, Schrauben und Platinen zu arbeiten, da alles da drin recht klein ausgelegt ist und keine Toleranz für grobschlächtiges Arbeiten erlaubt! Meine Switch ist nun wieder wie neu :) - Danke iFixit!

The swapping of battery (separate instruction) and fan was fairly manageable. The instructions are easy to understand. One should be used to handle with extremely finnicky connectors, screws and circuits as the components are really small and do not allow any tolerance for rough handling at all! My Switch is good as new again :) - Thank you iFixit!

gerhardkoschany -

My original switch bought on launch day does not have any of these screws. I'm guessing they fell out since the plastic tabs they attach to are broken. FYI, in case anyone else does not have these screws...

Michael Crook -

same here. one screw was completely absent on mine, and the other two couldn't be put back. I probably broke one of the tabs while reassembling the device. it still works fine, but I don't really like how loose the casing feels now.

Evan Newman -

I purchased a used switch back plate from eBay and replacing it today. Also replacing the battery again since the replacement is starting buldge.

Michael Crook -

Passo 5

Use a JIS 00 driver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).

I tried my JIS 000 on Step 5 and was unable to get the screw to budge. It’s partner from the other side came right out with no trouble. Don’t really want to narf up the screw, so I bailed out. Anyone else have this issue?

mrhoyt - 04/03/21

Could just be torqued down a bit more! I’d recommend making sure the driver bit seats nicely into the screw, apply some downward pressure, and slowly twist to try and back it out. Good luck!

Craig Lloyd - 05/03/21

Yeah I’m having this exact issue. Screw stripped and now I’m stuck. Wish I hadn’t even started.

Ryan Quinn - 22/05/21

I did finally get it out- one thing I noticed was some of the screws have blue Loctite on the threads. I guess they figure it’ll get tossed around. This underscores the importance of having the correct tools and making double darn sure you are using the correct size, etc.

mrhoyt - 05/03/21

What worked for me here was a Phillips 000, not a JIS 000

Federico Zivolo - 21/04/21

One of mine is totally stripped. Guess I can’t do anything now.

Nick -

My kit only has two screwdriver heads! The package was open when I received it!

Cynthia Hyland -

I had this issue as well. Screw was irreparably stripped. If you can get every other screw out, just keep applying pressure with a flat head screw driver right above the stripped screw and try to break the plastic piece holding onto the screw. It's a very minor invisible bit of damage that will allow you to continue the repair.

Raymond Garrison -

after getting all the other screws off I just hinged the back part away and it snapped off neatly where the rusted screw is. not the best solution but it worked.

Steve T -

One of my screws was SUPER attached too, but after following a bit noticed the one other in the left that got out nicely, had the plastic tab broken already! So I went ahead and broke the other tab too. So the two side screws are now holding nothing. But I think it will work thanks to the other 4 or 5 screws. Too bad!

carolaclavo -

i managed to get out one screw by putting a bit of paper over it which gave the screwdriver something to grip. The other side just won't budge and gets worse the more i try.

Steve T -

000 is too small, PH00 is right. Incorrect bit size will strip screws.

Orpheus -

Passo 6

Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.
If there's a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

Don't put your SD card on your magnetic mat.

Chris Cotter -

Please open this comments section and don't do this stupid mistake...
I used my newly bought beautiful mat and after everything was put back together, at the moment I took the SD card from the mat to put it back "BUT WAIT, a SD card on a magnet???" How to loose stupidly a SD card. You just loose some data (no saves or things like that) but still... stupid move.

So don't do it.

FonZ wayne -

Passo 7

Use a JIS 00 driver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.
Close the kickstand.

Passo 8

Open the game card cartridge flap.
The game card cartridge flap attaches to the other half of the plastic shell, preventing you from completely lifting up the rear panel if it's closed.
Lift the rear panel straight up from the bottom of the device and remove it.
Don't tilt it upwards while opening or else you risk breaking the plastic tabs on the top edge of the panel.

How to remove micro SD port?

Pull straight up, press back into place when closing back up.

Christopher Hernandez - 02/03/21

This step is missing in this guide. Here are the steps from another guide:

Step 9) Nintendo Switch Right Joy Con Sensor Rail Replacement

Step 10) Nintendo Switch Right Joy Con Sensor Rail Replacement

David -

When I lifted up the back cover, it kind of stuck near the headphone port (even with cartridge slot open). But it wasn't a screw or anything and I kind of carefully pulled and wiggled and the cover came off ok

Doe -

+1, there is definitely an extra clip there on my day 1 switch

repofmady -

I wasn't so careful here and found out during reassembly that I accidentally broke off the clip with the screw hole on the top of the back cover (the clip fell off the device when I turned it over), so I can't put the top screw back in, but oh well at least the back cover is still affixed to the device otherwise

Justin Johnson -

Are the little foam pads on the bottom back of the panel needed? They were removed from a panel I have.

Type1Guy -

If you're having trouble getting the back cover to fit during reassembly, check to make sure you don't have an SD card inserted in the slot. It will get in the way.

If you're like me, you might have inserted the SD card to verify your SD reader was working again after doing step 9 reassembly. If so, remove it before proceeding.

Alex -

This NEEDS to say to lift the back panel straight up and out, not to tilt it like the picture because there’s tabs that will break especially on the top edge of the cover!

Hungry Pipo -

Passo 9

Use a JIS 00 driver to remove the 3.1 mm screw securing the microSD card reader to the device.

Passo 10

Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the microSD card reader straight up from the device to disconnect and remove it.
During reassembly, make sure the press connector underneath the foam pad is firmly connected to the motherboard. It may help to remove the foam pad before reinstalling the card reader.

Yes. The reverse is not so simple- you can’t see what you’re doing when you attempt to reconnect and it only takes one small error to completely bend the contacts on the connector. Very delicate.

if you very gently remove the foam pad sticker, you can at least see better how it lines up and can feel your way to a degree… then you can stick the pad back in. The pad seems pretty critical in keeping things in place once reassembled.

holmzee - 08/12/19

Definitely agree about not sticking the foam pad back on until the new SD card slot is connected. Saved a lot of headache. Great walkthrough and easy repair!

Jonathan Stachewicz - 06/01/21

Tried several times to replace this SD reader module. As mentioned above, the issue is aligning the connectors together. It appears the foam tape is being used to hold the connection in place. (assuming you can make a viable connection) I am rather surprised at this design. In my experience, mylar ribbon cables like this usually slide into a small PC mounted socket. It appears Nintendo went the cheap route here. This design is prone to failure since it does not enable a positive connection - at least from what I can see.

Bill Little - 28/12/19

Alors je suis en détresse total . Jai cassé les bouches en or sur le connecteur qui est soudé sur la carte mère.. comment changer cette toute petite pièces, oû la trouver . Cela fais 1 mois que je cherche partout. Sans remplacer la carte mère. Merci pour vos réponses

Mike Snow - 23/03/20

I found it easier to connect it without the black foam pad so I could see and than add the foam pad over it. It was super easy and I an I 33 Mom doing this for my son. Was well worth the money for the kit saved us almost 100 bucks

Katherine Harrison - 12/05/20

Had my son follow this guide to fix his own switch where the ad card reader didn't work. And he did. Great instructions!!!! Thanks a million!

William Scott - 04/07/20

The only difficult part of following this guide is connecting the new sd card reader into the poorly designed motherboard connector. Its quite possible the sd card reader that came in the console wasnt broken at all.

The repair kit works just as advertised and even comes with stickers.

Matthias_ Links - 21/10/20

I’m still getting error 2002-2054 even after replacing memory card reader module. Thanks, Nintendo!

Wes Stephenson - 26/12/20

My switch won’t read my microSD card after I reassembled it (error 2016-0641) please help!

Nate Topical - 01/01/21

Tip: Keep the old SD reader piece loosely attached while you line up and gently press the new SD component into the connector on the motherboard. Once the new piece is snug, then carefully remove the old piece keeping the sticky foam in place.

I am a middle-aged mom with absolutely no special tech skills and I easily followed the directions and successfully fixed the broken SD drive. ifixit is the best!

Wende David - 29/01/21

Ah good! i have more confidence now in doing it once you said you're a middle age mom with no experience

Mohammad Hosein Yavari -

I missed this bit about reconnecting the SD card reader under the foam pad and didn’t realise until my son pointed out a data storage problem?. All fixed in about 5 minutes taking advice from the replacing the SD card reader fix, especially removing the foam pad from the connector to better see and feel what you’re doing. All sorted!

Stuart Farquharson-Roberts - 28/03/21

Awesome guide! Very easy to do with the supplied kit

cravenkeo khamone - 13/05/21

Tank you very much, and by tank I mean M1 Abrams, jokes apart easy and simple to follow

Elia Veschi -

Thanks for the guide, I was struggling to find a solution, replaced more sd cards, before I stumbled upon this post. The Switch of my children works flawless again!

Robert Morvai - 25/08/21

Doesn’t work! I have spent 4 hours and $26 on a tiny screwdriver and some stickers.. I just gave up and replaced the Switch instead.

I even contacted a local shop to have them fix it and they told me it really isn’t possible. Thanks for taking my money Ifixit!

J.R. Wood -

This helped me to reseat my SD card reader ribbon cable. I was getting the 2016-0641 error and no card work. A drop had dislodged the cable partially. And yes remove the foam pad gently to properly connect the cable. You can reuse the foam pad.

Kris Morey -

For anyone who ends up bending the pins like I did while trying to reseat the microSD card reader…

I suggest gently placing very thin tweezers (like the curved ones in the Pro Tool Kit) in the gap and very, very gently pressing them back into alignment. Took a little effort but I was able to realign them enough to sit it in place and have it later working after reassembling the console.

Yakarot Sennin - 13/01/22

Anyone have a suggestion where I can purchase replacement foam for this sticker?

Rob M -

When reassembling, note the alignment pins in the left and bottom notches before tightening the screw

Jason Lane -

Super gemakkelijk te installeren met behulp van deze zeer duidelijke handleiding (met dank aan de vertalers!)

Wel even goed opletten op de aansluiting op het moederbord is zeer fragiel.

R de Bruijne -

It is key to remember most out of the box issues with the SD card reader, do not require a replacement part and can be solved with disconnecting then re-connecting the reader at the motherboard.

Only when a simple re-seating at the connector doesn't work should you buy the replacement part.

Jonathon Sinclair -

I bought the kit and followed the directions. I plucked the black rubber foam off with a pair of eyelash tweezers. Putting the tiny screws back in place also was made easier using the tweezers. As for placing the SD card in place I think I got a bit lucky. I lined it up and gently pressed until it simply went into place. I do believe being gentle is the key there. But it went in and I put it back together. The deconstructing and reconstructing is what took the longest for me at least. I turned it on to verify it worked and then unpowered the unit and inserted the card. The system recognized and update right away and did it and then recognized the card! Just what I need for 20 something dollars. Son is happy and back to gaming.

Albert Baker -

Thank you for postingthis fix. The original sd card reader had come unplugged from the motherboard, so replacement reader will be a spare.

Anybody found a way to ensure the sd reader stays in place?

Craig Thwaites -

It was my first time repairing a Switch and the fan replacement wasn't too hard, but unfortunately I think there should be a better warning about the SD card connector because I damaged it while trying to put it back in. I couldn't hear any click and it didn't seem to stay put and I think I ended up applying to much force and damaging the pins.

Serge Huber -

What are the foam black squares called and where can I get a replacement for one?

Marcus -

It’s called Foam tape

Alberto -

What is the error code 404 for

Alberto -

Managed to push the connector back in with foam on, used back of plastic tool to push secure and once completed was able to use the SD port again. Brilliant little guide.

Dominic Jones -

so how would you theroedictly put the old slot back on.

and how does if even work

Shadow Dragon -

Horrible guide, incomplete. Needs to show how to reattach the new reader but doesn't show anything. This makes it incredibly easy to bend pins that become incredibly difficult to fix. Ended up bending pins on the connector beyond repair as I didn't know what to look for or how to reattach it. Wouldn't recommend

Blake Thorne -

Tried to do this, everything went smoothly I thought, but when I turn on system w SD card in the new slot, immediately freezes up the system completely until I hard shut down. Did I do something wrong?

Nate Akers -

"Draw the rest of the !@#$ing owl"

Droideka30 -

I have an issue that when I insert the SD card with the case off (to test the connection is correct), the switch reads it no problem. When I put the case back on, it no longer reads it. Anyone else experienced this?

Adam Seager -

This bullshit replacement part broke after two weeks of use, and now the connector on the board is damaged. My Switch is probably &&^&@@.

Thanks, iFixit!

Thomas Buster -

It was easy to remove, but harder with the black sponge to install. I initially did not take it off (on Install) and just place it in the hole. Luckily I tried the micro sd card and the switch did not detect the card. I then removed the black sponge and was very easily able to connect it back in the correct location and then continue assembly after verifying it was working fine. Some of the folks on this thread seem to be treating it like it is not super delicate electronics.

TA Warner -

The screw fell out. where can i find a new one?

Jesse G -

Bonsoir a tous, question : tous les port micro sd sont compatibles ? Je l'ai installé et ca ne reconnaît pas ! Peut être il y a des références ? Merci

Aladdin JR. -

Passo 11

Use a JIS 00 driver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.

Some models have a small board in the lower left beneath the kickstand which accepts SD cards. This will have to be carefully removed with its connections popped out, then replaced after.

Draque Thompson -

Yeah, that “small board” is the microSD Card reader chip, which was covered literally one step ago. All models have a microSD Card reader, that’s how game data is stored…

nin10doh - 12/12/21

My switch had loctite (or similar) on the bottom right screw (farthest right), ended up striping it and having to use a Dremel to cut a slot in the screw to get it out. I've heard that heat (solder gun) can be used to loosen loctite, hindsight. Only screw I found with loctite.

Rachael Webster -

Passo 12

Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port.
If the foam doesn't easily peel away, don't force it as it might end up tearing. Carefully peel at different spots to pull back the foam.

My Switch (bought about two weeks after launch) seems to be missing this foam piece… Was it added later, similar to the foam piece in the left joy-con (to improve connectivity)?

firetech - 05/02/21

It’s possible it was added to newer units! Nintendo slightly updated the internals of the Switch not too long ago.

Craig Lloyd - 05/02/21

My launch Switch also does not have this piece of foam, so it was most likely added later.

Christoph -

Also did not see this in my launch switch.

matthew.raehl -

Me three, no foam.

carolaclavo -

Passo 13

Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device.
Pry up to lift the shield plate and remove it from the device.
You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. This helps prevent the Switch from overheating.
You can reuse the pink thermal compound if you're careful. Keep the compound clean and make sure it makes solid contact between the heat sink and the shield during reassembly.
If you need to replace it, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as thermal putty or K5 Pro, during reassembly.

How do you know if the thermal paste needs to be replaced?

Youji Hong - 27/08/19

Once you remove a heatsink you must always replace thermal paste even if you had just applied it ( or add a little more) . The reason is that once heat sink is fitted, paste splits around because of pressure and only needed amount will remain. If you remove the heatsink then some paste will move so when installed again there will be spots without paste. Hope this is clear enough. In any case cost of paste is very small compared to work time and value of your equipment…..

MacTek - 15/12/19

When your switch starts to lag and drop FPS, if you play breath of the wild and it starts to slow down in heavy areas like the forest where you get the master sword, can i use artic mx 4 insted of the pink compound?

Diego Soto - 30/08/19

I’d like to know as well if a cpu thermal compound like arctic mx-4 can be used to replace the pink compound

Adam Stillman - 06/09/19

No you shouldn't . It will spill around because it is not viscous enough and then there will be no heat transfer. As suggested by author K5 PRO is the most appropriate compound for such cases.

MacTek - 15/12/19

Arctic is generally only supposed to be used on bigger heat sinks like a personal computer. Its not nearly as thick or gummy compared to K5 PRO, and you should always use something that’s thicker for smaller project like a Switch/phone/tablet.

Shawn Christensen - 20/12/19

Why was this not included in the tools/equipment list? Getting to this step and now I will have to reverse and wait for yet another order to arrive. ? Very frustrated

Amanda Nally - 12/03/21

Hi Amanda,

Thanks for bringing this up. Sorry! We inadvertently left that part out during the guide refresh. I’ll add the necessary info into the step.

Arthur Shi - 12/03/21

I agree with Amanda, hopefully I don't lose any parts before I can get the paste. This seems like it should almost be included in this kit from what I've read about this repair. Mine certainly needs to be replaced. I feel like at the very least, this should be at the top of the guide and part order page in bold, red, all cap lettering.

Side note this is the only "issue" I've had of the 4 purchases I've made with ifixit. I recommend you guys every chance I get. I really enjoy doing these repairs with my son.

Zach Bryson -

To apply new thermal paste, the directions state to use the application method recommended for your specific processor type—vertical line, horizontal line, middle dot, or surface spread.

Which method should be used for the Nintendo Switch processor?

Philip W -

As stated in the comment above, is there a particular method to apply thermal paste to the Switch’s processor? Or as long as you distribute it evenly is enough?

lievjorg -

Is another thermal compound as MX4 or 6 okay as well?

Marceau -

does ifixit not have an appropriate thermal paste for this step?
there is only arctic silver 5 in the kit and i would guess that that should not be used in this case.
if true, the kit is incomplete

Lucas Tigy -

This step is also completely glossed over in the YouTube walkthrough, which doesn’t even hint at the existence of the pink paste.

Phokal -

Since I couldn't find decently priced K5 I used a 0.5mm thick thermal pad and that seems to have done the trick quite well.

Dupont Nicolas -

The Amazon link goes to a kit with 6 tubes of K5 Pro. Surely I don’t need 6 tubes… is this kit sufficient? https://a.co/d/5aU8kB7

JAVH -

When replacing the thermal paste, is it possible just to clean the old thermal off the back plate and top of the copper heatsink and just re-apply those areas only, without removing that copper heatsink?

Linn Mckay -

I forgot to buy the thermal paste, and I very gently removed the metal plate... So in the end, I put it back with the old paste, and started (YEAH, it worked!!!) and followed the temperatures with a thermal gun, with TOTK playing on the screen to check if that could be a problem. This device is really impressive on this particular point, as I started to consider my gun had issues.

If you can, buy this paste, it is still cheaper than a new Switch.

FonZ wayne -

Oh no... I'm now sitting with a disassembled switch and no replacement paste as it wasn't included in the kit :-(

This was a huge letdown.

Marcus R -

Passo 14

Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

be careful not to pry it off the board entirely

Nathan McKenna -

This was an old switch and the entire thing with the black plastic came off.. Most of the pins aren't there anymore, too.. is there a solution to that? Does soldering work?

Dawn Martin -

it's probably possible, but unless you have experience with microsoldering, you'd probably be better off taking it to a local repair shop

just some mango -

This step just ruined my device… wish there had been a warning of caution here.

Phone guy -

You can use a spudger to hold down the black plastic side of this connector that is supposed to stay attached to the motherboard while using the pointy spudger as shown in order to reduce any chance of pulling the socket off the motherboard.

Brian Edgin -

I came at this from the right side (opposite) to where the images show. It was easy as I could use the point of the spudger as a lever to slowly remove the pins.

Efren Munoz, Jr. -

&&^&. This step broke my switch. Put a warning in this step, please

Michele Meloni -

Passo 15

Use a JIS 00 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

Passo 16

Carefully peel the two foam pieces stuck over both the heatsink and the fan away from the fan.

Carefully peel the two foam pieces stuck over both the heatsink and the fan away from the fan.
The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.
The foam is really delicate and tears easily. Use the following technique to peel the foam:
Insert the point of a spudger underneath the part of the foam that isn't stuck against anything,
Press the top of the foam with your finger to hold it in place.
Roll the spudger tip underneath the foam all the way to the other end of the foam to release it.

spudger technique is perfect.

Jaxon Lee -

For anyone who doesn’t have a pen-style spudger, the tip of your JIS 000 screwdriver can be a great alternative tool. The same steps above can be used, just be extra careful not to tear that foam. Roll the tip of the screwdriver the same way you would roll the spudger tip.

nin10doh -

Maybe it’s because I’m working on a day one switch and the adhesive is just old and stubborn, but this didn’t work well for me. Am I just completely out of luck, or can I order a replacement for the foam?

Trae Block - 09/03/22

I had the same problem and I found a foam manufacturer: https://www.foam-material.com/sample-cus...

I'm pretty sure the type is "Granular Activated Carbon Foam" and the thickness is 0.5 mm but I have no idea what the porosity is.

Garret Jaworski -

Yeah ripped the foam. Neither the screwdriver nor spudger technique worked. Day one switch, so 6 years old at this point.

Ndragonawa -

Does the foam need replacing if torn? What does it actually do.

Scott Norman -

I wanted to know as well, what does it do? Can I replace it with thermal pads?

Lord Aranorde -

Can I replace the foam with a 0.5mm thermal pad? Will it be a better solution?

Lord Aranorde -

The adhesive remover really helped here being a day one switch

Jeremy Ortner -

Day One Switch, used the spudger technique and 1 teardrop of adhesive remover, no foam ripped here! Technique is mint.

Cassitar -

how do you re-glue the foam when putting this back together?

Elias Cooper -

Be careful, the thread for the black 2.5 mm screw near exhaust is a seperate plastic part, and falls out easily!

ykne -

I ripped the foam and was unable to reinstall it. People are suggesting using a 0.5mm thermal pad, but the foam seems to indicate that thermal transfer isn't the main concern in this area. Instead, it seems like the goal is to create separation between the metal shield, heatsink, and heat pipe. So, what's the proper replacement for the foam in this situation?

Cheyne Middleton -

Passo 17

Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it.
You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.
Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.
Apply thermal paste to all surfaces that had thermal paste applied previously. This includes between the heatpipe and aluminum shield, which the Switch uses as additional heatsinking.

What's on the heatsink?

Unknown1224 - 25/08/19

Directions for this step say you can use Artic Silver ArctiClean but when adding to iFixit cart it says “This won’t work with your device (Nintendo Switch).

Dan S. - 03/06/20

where do i get more of that black fabric like tape that is on the heat sink?

Regal Pikachu - 04/06/20

They may sell it in the ifixit store.

Joshua Graham - 03/06/21

(1) Exactly how much thermal paste should be applied to the CPU?

(2) Which application method should be used? The linked instructions list four methods (vertical line, horizontal line, middle dot, or surface spread) but it’s not clear to me which one is appropriate for the Switch. Thanks!

Travis - 18/07/21

UPDATE: So, for anyone who also wanted to know the answers to these questions:

1. I ended up eyeballing the amount. Imagine an amount the size of a pea, then split that amount in half. That’s how much I used, and it worked fine.

2. The paste (I used K5-Pro as recommended) is quite thick and sticky and difficult to get to behave the way you want, so I ended up just doing the “middle dot” method and spreading it a bit with a popsicle stick before smushing it the rest of the way down with the heat sink. Seems to have done the trick.

Good luck!

Travis -

you can also spread it with the spudger or any non-metalic tool if you are not sure how much you put

just clean it afterwards

Richard Aguirre -

K5 (or thermal pads) is ONLY needed between the copper pipe and metal shield plate. It is a pad replacement compound and is not meant for high heat applications like CPUs as it boils and creates air gaps. Air=bad for heat transfer.

Regular thermal compound/paste should be used on the CPU. You’ll have a sticky mess to clean but if you want proper cooling it needs to be done. The instructions clearly state that regular compound is used on the CPU.

Cerus98 -

i used artic silver 5 and worked just fine

Richard Aguirre -

The steps doesnt specify but do you have to remove the heat shield from the cpu as well?

Jeremy Ortner -

I'll be doing this with Thermal Grizzly kryonaut this weekend, wish me luck

Corradon -

good luck with the repairs!

pkjnyoung -

Passo 18

Remove the two 3.1 mm Phillips screws from the headphone jack bracket.

Passo 19

Remove the headphone jack bracket.

Passo 20

Use a spudger to lift the black locking flap on the ZIF connector up.
To reconnect ZIF connectors like this one, gently slide the cable back in place and press the locking flap back into place.