Introdução
A 4E or 4C error code on a Samsung washing machine usually means the washer isn’t filling with water. This guide walks through checking water supply flow, hot and cold hose connections, inlet valve screens (filters), rust or iron buildup, hose damage or kinks, inlet valve wiring, and electrical tests to decide whether the inlet valve or the PCB (control board) is at fault.
Ferramentas
Peças
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Turn the water supply lines all the way off.
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Disconnect the hot and cold water hoses from the washing machine.
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Turn on each hose and discharge water into a bucket to confirm the hoses supply water properly.
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Reconnect the hoses to the washer.
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Verify the hot hose is connected to the hot inlet labeled H or red.
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Verify the cold hose is connected to the cold inlet labeled C or blue.
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Correct any swapped connections, because the washer may not operate properly if the hoses are reversed.
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Use needle-nose pliers to pull out the valve screens hidden inside each water inlet.
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Inspect the screens and confirm you can see clearly through them and that they’re free of debris.
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Wash off clogged screens so water can flow through the valves properly.
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If the valve inlets look red or rusty, spray a small amount of iron remover into the valves to clean them.
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Replace the valves if the water is very bad and the washer has been used for a long time with that water.
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Inspect the hoses for kinks, folds, or damage that could stop water from freely flowing to the valves.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws on the left and right sides of the top washer panel.
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Remove the top washer panel.
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Inspect the water valve wire harnesses and confirm they’re seated in place properly.
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Disconnect each harness and reconnect it to make sure it’s firmly seated.
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Set a multimeter to ohms (resistance).
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Press the meter leads into the terminals at each valve wire harness connector to read each valve coil.
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Compare readings across valves, because each valve should measure the same resistance.
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If a valve reads well outside 500 to 1500 ohms, remove the harness and test the bare metal terminals on the valve.
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Replace the valve if the bad reading persists or the meter shows OL.
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Do a live voltage test only if the water supply and valve resistance checks didn’t solve the problem.
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Turn the washer on and check for a 120 volt signal going to the water valve from the PCB.
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Replace the PCB if you don’t get 120 volts to the valve.
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Check the pressure switch and make sure it’s set in place.
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Inspect the pressure switch hose for kinks or damage.
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A fill error is usually caused by water not reaching the inlet valve, or by the valve not opening because it isn’t getting the correct electrical signal. If you verified good water flow to the washer, cleaned the inlet screens, confirmed hoses aren’t kinked, confirmed correct hot and cold hookups, and the valve still won’t fill, focus on valve resistance and the 120 volt supply to the valve.
