How to Troubleshoot an Insignia Top Load Washing Machine That Won't Drain

Unplug the washing machine from the wall outlet.

Turn off both water supply valves to reduce the risk of leaks while you move the washer.

Move the washer where you can access the back and safely tilt it.

Put towels down and keep a shallow pan or bucket nearby because water will likely spill when hoses are removed.

Check the height of the drain hose where it enters the standpipe or laundry sink.

Set the hose so its top sits around the height of the rear of the washer, near the console area.

Aim for about 100 cm (39 inches) from the floor to the top of the drain hose.

Check the bottom rear area for a pump clean-out cap or plug that can be unscrewed.

Unscrew the clean-out and inspect for debris that could block the pump.

Lower the drain hose to floor level, or as close to the floor as possible.

Let the washer siphon water out through the hose into a pan, bucket, or floor drain.

If water doesn’t flow at floor level, treat it as a likely blockage in the pump or hoses.

Tape the lid shut so it can’t flip open when the washer is tilted.

Tilt the washer onto its front or onto its side to access the underside.

Locate the drain pump from underneath by finding the unit with a large hose attached.

Place a towel under the pump area to catch water.

Use a Phillips screwdriver or a 10 mm socket to remove the three screws holding the pump housing in place.

Use slip-joint pliers to release the clamp and remove the tub hose from the pump.

Check for obstructions inside the washer tub opening and inside the tub hose you removed.

Inspect the hose path from the pump to the outlet drain hose for clogs.

Use a flashlight to look through hoses and openings, especially if siphoning didn’t drain any water earlier.

Remove any debris you find and recheck for free water flow through the hoses.

Locate the wire bundle near the rear corner by the control board area while the washer is on its front or side.

Remove the rear panel screws to access the wiring bundle more easily.

Trace the drain pump wire through the wire bundle and separate it from the cluster as needed.

Remove any cable ties that prevent the pump wire from being pulled free, including any surface-mount cable tie holding it.

Unwrap any cotton wrap on the wire bundle slowly so it can be taped back up during reassembly.

Set a multimeter to resistance (ohms).

Press the multimeter probes into the drain pump wire harness terminals to measure the pump winding resistance.

Look for about 16–17 Ω on the pump.

Replace the pump if the reading is far outside that value, using about a 20% margin as a guideline.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three or four screws holding the pump housing to the pump motor.

Separate the pump housing from the motor so you can access the impeller paddle inside.

Turn the impeller by hand and feel for three or four firm segments that resist movement and then spring past due to internal magnets.

Replace the pump if the impeller feels very loose or stripped, or if the paddle appears damaged.

Install the tested-good or replacement pump in the same location and orientation as the original.

Route the pump wiring back into the wire cluster and re-secure it so it can’t move or snag.

Re-tie any cable ties you removed and rewrap the wire bundle, taping the cotton wrap back in place if needed.

Mount the wire bundle back on the side of the washer using its metal wire tie.

Reattach the tub hose to the pump and secure the clamp.

Reinstall the three screws that secure the pump housing to the washer.

Access the control board from the back of the washer or while it is laid on its front.

Unplug the drain pump connector on the control board labeled CN5.

Test for continuity or resistance between pin 3 and pin 6 on the harness going to the pump.

If you get continuity, suspect the control board is not triggering the pump.

If you don’t get continuity, suspect a broken wire between the board and the pump, often within the wire bundle area.