How to Troubleshoot a Noisy Samsung Refrigerator

Remove all of the refrigerator shelves so you can access the rear evaporator panel.

Pull each shelf up, and then pull it out.

Pull the crisper drawer plate out.

If the refrigerator has a water filter, press in on the tabs at the front sides of the filter, and then pull the crisper plate up and out.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws securing any additional cover plate in front of the evaporator panel.

Remove the evaporator panel screws in the lower left and lower right corners.

Remove the two screws hidden in the center bracket.

Remove the plastic tab that hides one of the center bracket screws before removing that screw.

Gently tug on the evaporator panel to release it.

Work around the edges with your fingers, or use a screwdriver if needed.

Press and hold the Power Freeze and Fridge buttons at the same time for eight seconds.

Release the buttons when the display turns blank and beeps.

Press the Fridge button to cycle through the forced modes until you see the defrost option you want.

Select RD for refrigerator defrost, or FD to defrost the whole unit, if your model offers both.

Wait while the compressor and fans shut off and the refrigerator repeatedly beeps during the cycle.

Listen for hissing or slight popping sounds, which can happen as ice melts behind the panel.

Let the defrost cycle run for up to 20 minutes.

After about 20 minutes, unplug the refrigerator or re-enter the forced mode screen and cycle to the blank screen to disable forced defrost.

If a large amount of ice still binds the evaporator panel, suspect a failed defrost component and manually defrost the refrigerator.

Use a fan at very low heat or no heat to speed up the thaw if needed.

Locate the cluster of wire connectors on the upper left side of the refrigerator cabinet.

Press the tab on each connector, and pull to disconnect it so you can remove the panel.

Loosen the wires on the evaporator panel if you want extra room to move the panel away while keeping the refrigerator on for troubleshooting.

Treat the noise as one of two problems: a failing fan motor, or ice in the cabinet rubbing on the fan.

Focus on why ice is forming and not being removed properly if you see frost or ice near the fan area.

Trick the door sensors so the refrigerator thinks the doors are closed and runs the fan.

Place magnets on the top of the doors where the reed switches are located.

Inspect the fan area while it runs to see whether ice contact is causing the noise and to observe normal operation.

Use a multimeter set to DC volts to check the fan supply voltage while it runs.

Expect about 8 to 12 volts DC during normal operation.

Consider replacing the fan if it isn’t operating in the 8 to 12 volts DC range.

Set the evaporator panel down face-forward so you can access the fan mounting plate.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws around the corners of the fan retention plate.

Press down on the plastic retainers holding the fan in place.

Slide the fan out of the housing.

Inspect the evaporator area for ice and moisture buildup that could be too close to the fan.

Treat heavy frost as a sign that the defrost system has failed or is inefficient.

Use a multimeter set to resistance (ohms) to test the defrost heater through its wire harness connector.

Touch the meter leads to the two brown defrost wires at the harness connector.

Find the two wires on opposite sides of the evaporator on this style, or together in a metal box on some models.

Look for about 120 ohms on this type of system.

Replace the heater if the reading isn’t within about ±5% of the expected value.

Use a multimeter set to resistance (ohms) to test the defrost sensor.

Expect about 5,000 ohms at 77 °F for a typical sensor.

Replace the sensor if its reading is very far off the normal value.

Remove any black sludge from the white sensor harness if you replace the sensor, because Samsung now suggests removing it to avoid affecting thermal values.

Reinstall the sensor in the open area on the top of the evaporator coils rather than at the refrigerant inlet so it takes longer to defrost and keeps the cycle running longer.

Move the original sensor to that top coil location instead of replacing it if it tests good.

Check the metal catch pan for ice or water buildup.

Use an ice maker water line and a small bottle to pump water through the drain hole with enough volume to clear ice and confirm flow.

If the water stays in the pan or drains slowly, address the drain issue to prevent leaks and ice that can return to the fan area.

Replace a small heater-to-pan metal clip with a larger metal drain probe that reaches farther into the drain hole to keep it warm longer.

Use side snips to cut off the old clip.

Use needle-nose pliers to install the new drain probe and secure it to the heater.

Inspect the drain tube for junk and gunk that could be clogging the drain line.

Deep clean the drain tube, or replace it if it’s damaged or too clogged to clean well.

Install the new drain tubes where the old tubes were damaged.

Reinstall the screws, the plastic tab, and any additional cover plate you removed.

Reinstall the crisper drawer plate, the shelves, and the water filter if your model uses one.

If ice and fan noise return after addressing the defrost components and drain, consider adding an additional heater near the fan or on the copper lines as a last-resort fix.