Introdução
If an Insignia washing machine won’t fill (no hot water, no cold water, or an E1 error) or it slowly drips water into the tub when it’s off, the problem is often in the water supply hoses, clogged inlet screens, or a faulty water inlet valve (water valve assembly). This guide walks you through checking the water supply, cleaning the valve screens, testing valve solenoids with a multimeter, replacing a bad valve, and doing a couple of electrical checks if the problem continues.
Ferramentas
Peças
-
-
Confirm the symptom, such as no hot fill, no cold fill, an E1 error, or water dripping into the tub when the washer isn’t running.
-
-
-
Remove the hot and cold supply hoses from the washer’s inlet ports.
-
Test the hoses and household supply to make sure they actually deliver water.
-
Shut the water supply valves back off after testing.
-
-
-
Inspect the inlet valve screens at the washer’s hot and cold water ports for debris that could clog them.
-
Use needle-nose pliers to pull the screens out of the valve ports.
-
Check the screens and the area behind them for buildup or debris.
-
Wash and clean the screens, and then reinstall them.
-
-
-
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the top cover.
-
Remove the right screw, the left screw, and the screw in the middle between the valves.
-
Roll the washer console top forward to access the valves.
-
-
-
Set a multimeter to resistance (ohms).
-
If the meter isn’t auto-ranging, set it between 200 and 2000 ohms.
-
Press the meter leads into the two sides of a solenoid to contact the metal prongs, and read the resistance.
-
Look for roughly 1070 ohms per solenoid pair, or similar values across all solenoids on the valve assembly.
-
If a reading is off by about 10% or more, the coil is likely damaged and the valve should be replaced.
-
-
-
Replace the valve if it leaks water into the tub when it shouldn’t, because it’s likely stuck open from debris.
-
-
-
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two small screws from the metal arm at the front of the valves.
-
Pivot the retainer up and away from the valves.
-
Pull the entire valve assemblies out of their mounting area.
-
-
-
Use needle-nose pliers to pinch the hose retainer clamp and slide it farther onto the hose.
-
Pull the water valve out of the hose.
-
Press the new valve into the hose.
-
Pinch the clamp, slide it back near the end of the barb, and release it to secure the hose.
-
-
-
Reseat the valves into the small plastic gaps that hold them in place.
-
Reinstall the wire harnesses onto the valves in their correct positions.
-
Lower the retainer bar onto the valves until it snaps into place.
-
Use a Phillips screwdriver to reinstall the two screws on the retainer plate.
-
Roll the top back into place, and reinstall the three top-cover screws.
-
-
-
Set the multimeter to AC voltage.
-
Pull the wire harnesses slightly off the valves to expose metal, but don’t remove them completely.
-
Plug the washer in and command a fill by starting a load.
-
Measure for about 120 volts AC at the solenoids when the washer calls for hot and cold water.
-
If you don’t get about 120 volts AC, the control board is likely bad.
-
-
-
Access the control board at the rear of the machine, and unplug the wiring connectors, especially the one marked CN5.
-
Use a multimeter in ohms mode to test CN5 pin 1 to pin 6, and then CN5 pin 2 to pin 6.
-
If the meter shows OL, the wiring between the board and the valves is likely broken and needs to be inspected and replaced.
-
Inspect wiring in the plastic bag that holds the conversion wires for possible breaks.
-
Reconnect the supply hoses, turn the household water back on, and check for leaks at every connection. Plug the washer in and run a fill to confirm hot and cold operation, and verify that the tub doesn’t slowly fill when the washer is off.
