How to Troubleshoot Water Fill and Leaking Problems in a Criterion Washing Machine

Escrito Por: Ben Schlichter
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How to Troubleshoot Water Fill and Leaking Problems in a Criterion Washing Machine

Dificuldade

Moderate

Passos

13

Tempo necessário

No estimate

Introdução

If a Criterion washing machine won’t fill with hot or cold water, shows a fill-related error (such as E1), or slowly drips water into the tub when it’s off, the water supply, inlet screens, or the water inlet valve (also called the water valve assembly or fill valve) is often the cause. This guide walks through checking the hoses and screens, testing the valve solenoids with a multimeter, cleaning the screens, and replacing a faulty valve. This procedure was written using a Midea-built washer design used by Criterion and similar models, so layouts may vary slightly.

    • Turn off both water supply faucets at the wall.

    • Unplug the washer from the wall outlet.

    • Have a towel and a shallow pan ready for water that may spill from the hoses.

    • Disconnect the hot and cold water supply hoses from the washer.

    • Test the hoses and water supply to confirm they actually deliver water.

    • Fix any supply problem before working on the washer, because a good washer can’t fill without water.

    • Inspect the inlet valve screens at the washer’s hot and cold hose ports for debris.

    • Use needle-nose pliers to pull the screens out of the valve ports.

    • Check the screens and the area behind them for buildup that could clog water flow.

    • Wash and clean the screens, then reinstall them.

    • A badly clogged screen can cause a no-fill condition and cleaning it may solve the issue for free.

    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the top console cover.

    • Remove the right screw, the left screw, and the middle screw between the valves.

    • Roll the washer console top forward to expose the water valve area.

    • Confirm the washer is fully unplugged before touching any internal wiring.

    • Pull the wire harness connectors off the water valve solenoids.

    • Take a photo of the connectors so they go back to the same places.

    • Valve orientation and the number of solenoids may vary by model, and some units may not have a valve on the right side.

    • Set a multimeter to resistance (ohms).

    • If the meter isn’t auto-ranging, set it between 200 and 2000 ohms.

    • Press the meter leads onto the two metal prongs of a solenoid coil to read its resistance.

    • Test each solenoid pair on the valve assembly.

    • Expect roughly 1070 ohms per coil on this style of valve.

    • If a reading is off by about 10% or more, the coil is likely damaged and the valve should be replaced.

    • Replace the water valve if water slowly leaks into the tub when the washer is off.

    • A slow tub fill often means the valve is stuck open from debris and won’t fully shut.

    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two small screws from the metal retainer arm in front of the valves.

    • Pivot the retainer up and away from the valves.

    • Lift the valve assembly out so you can access the hoses connected to it.

    • Use needle-nose pliers to pinch the hose clamp retainer on the valve hose.

    • Slide the clamp farther onto the hose to free the valve barb.

    • Pull the water valve out of the hose.

    • Press the new valve into the hose, slide the clamp back near the end of the barb, and release it to lock in place.

    • Some units use separate hot and cold valves, while others may use different mixing valves for dispensers.

    • Seat the valves into the small plastic gaps that hold the valve assembly in position.

    • Take time to line the valves up, because they may need a little maneuvering to fit correctly.

    • Reconnect the wire harnesses to the valves, making sure each connector is fully seated.

    • Lower the metal retainer bar onto the valves until it snaps into place.

    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to reinstall the two screws on the retainer plate.

    • Roll the console top back into place and reinstall the three top screws.

    • WARNING: This step uses live voltage, so avoid touching metal probes or exposed terminals and stop if you’re not comfortable working energized.

    • Set the multimeter to AC voltage.

    • Pull each valve wire harness back slightly to expose the metal of the connector without removing it completely.

    • Plug the washer in and command the machine to fill by starting a cycle that calls for hot and cold water.

    • Measure voltage at the solenoid terminals and look for about 120 volts AC when the valve is commanded on.

    • If you don’t get 120 volts AC, the control board is likely faulty.

    • Unplug the washer before accessing the control board at the rear of the machine.

    • Disconnect the wiring connectors at the control board, especially the connector marked CN5.

    • Set the multimeter to resistance (ohms) and test CN5 pin 1 to pin 6, then test CN5 pin 2 to pin 6.

    • Use these readings to test the hot and cold water solenoids from the board to the valves.

    • If the meter shows OL, the wiring is likely broken somewhere between the board and the valves.

    • Inspect the wiring bundle inside the plastic bag that holds the conversion wires for breaks or damage.

    • Reconnect the water supply hoses, turn the faucets on, and check the hose connections for leaks.

    • Plug the washer in and run a fill to confirm hot and cold water both enter correctly and the tub doesn’t drip-fill when idle.

Conclusão

If the hoses supply water, the inlet screens are clear, the valve coils test near the expected resistance, and the control board sends about 120 volts AC during a fill command, the washer should fill normally. If the tub still slowly fills when the washer is off, replace the water inlet valve because it’s likely stuck open internally.

Autor(a)

Ben Schlichter

Membro desde: 21/01/25

6447 Reputação

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