Introdução

If the freezer is working but the refrigerator compartment isn’t cooling, this style of KitchenAid and Whirlpool refrigerator can ice up around the evaporator and stop moving cold air into the fresh-food section. Common clues include ice on the back wall, a grinding noise from the rear (the evaporator fan hitting ice), and water collecting in the crisper drawers. This guide shows how to access the evaporator area, inspect and replace the W11033168 fan kit, clear the drain line, and switch the control to basic defrost mode to reduce ice buildup.

    • Look for these symptoms: a warm refrigerator compartment with a cold freezer, ice on the rear wall, a grinding noise from the back wall, or water in the crisper drawers.

    • Move perishable food to a cooler since the refrigerator compartment may warm up during the repair.

    • Unplug the refrigerator before disassembly to reduce shock risk.

    • Keep towels nearby because removing the water filter and lines can spill water.

    • Caution: Don’t use high heat to melt ice inside the cabinet because it can damage or melt the refrigerator liner.

    • Remove the top shelves by pulling up on them, and then pulling them out of the refrigerator.

    • Remove any door shelves the same way if they block drawer removal on the specific layout.

    • Find the small plastic hook on the inner side of each crisper drawer glide.

    • Use a screwdriver to push the hook toward the front of the drawer, and then pull up to release the drawer.

    • Pull the drawer out of the glides after the inner hook is released.

    • Remove the glass and lift out the entire crisper assembly, which may come out as one piece or as two pieces.

    • Illustration: The drawer hooks are on the inner side only, and there isn’t an outer retention piece to release.

    • Remove the chef pantry glass.

    • Pull the large chef pantry drawer out of the refrigerator.

    • Locate the large cross piece that spans the cabinet, which must come out to access the rear evaporator area.

    • Remove the glass above the chef pantry area on a three-door model.

    • Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the wire-harness cover on the chef pantry.

    • Unplug the wire from the harness so the cross piece can be removed.

    • Slide the cross piece to the left and make sure the wire trunk is removed so the cross piece can lift out.

    • Note: Four- and five-door versions can require extra teardown around the harness system before this area will come out.

    • Note: Some four-door models have small screwdriver holes you press with a flathead screwdriver to pop the harness system loose.

    • Use a 1/4 inch hex-head screwdriver to remove the two long screws from the filter assembly cover.

    • Open the water housing at the top of the refrigerator and remove the water filter.

    • Caution: Expect water to splash from the housing and from the filter when you remove it.

    • Use a screwdriver to pry the plastic facade down off the water housing tabs.

    • Disconnect the wire harness from the lights so the panel can come out of the refrigerator.

    • Separate every wire harness between the water tower and the ice maker so nothing is still tethered.

    • Use needle-nose pliers to push the cap into the valve, and then pull the water line out from the water tower.

    • Gently pry the ice maker front facade out and disconnect the small wire harness for the heater behind it.

    • Use a 1/4 inch hex-head screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the ice maker in its housing.

    • Pull the ice maker housing forward, and then down, to remove it from its mounting clips.

    • Illustration: The ice maker uses four clips to mount, and all four must line up during reinstallation.

    • Use a 1/4 inch hex-head screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the evaporator panel on.

    • Caution: If the rear area is iced up, avoid high heat because it can bubble or melt the refrigerator liner.

    • Release the air tower cover by separating the small tabs located on the outside edges of the metal shelf brackets.

    • Use a screwdriver to pry each tab free, and work slowly because it can be tedious.

    • Pull the air tower cover off to expose the evaporator system and fan area.

    • Illustration: The air tower tabs sit beside the vertical metal shelf rails at the center of the rear cover.

    • Check whether the evaporator fan is running after the evaporator area is exposed.

    • Note: If the fan doesn’t run, the system can’t move air properly during defrost and ice buildup can worsen.

    • WARNING: Plug the refrigerator in only for this test, and keep fingers and tools clear of moving parts and live wiring.

    • Enter Diagnostics by pressing and holding the left two buttons on the door interface for three seconds.

    • Press the fifth button to cycle until you reach option number three for the evaporator fan.

    • Press the third button once to shift fan modes and see if the fan turns on.

    • Unplug the refrigerator again when the test is done.

    • Locate the harness connection that powers the fan and thermostats.

    • Press the small flap on the connector and pull it apart, using a screwdriver if needed.

    • Inspect the connector pins for corrosion that could prevent power from reaching the fan.

    • Clean the connection with a specialty electrical cleaner if corrosion is present.

    • Replace the fan kit if the fan still doesn’t run after the connection is restored.

    • Identify the thermistor on the evaporator area, since a failed thermistor can end defrost too early and leave heavy ice buildup.

    • Note: You can test the thermistor with a multimeter after cutting it out, but replacing the fan and thermistor kit is often easier.

    • Remove any thermostat that is clipped to the fan housing by releasing it with needle-nose pliers if present on the model.

    • Release the fan from its four rubber mounting pegs by stretching the pegs so the fan can drop free.

    • Use needle-nose pliers to pull the pegs from the bottom so the pegs are stressed, not the fan housing.

    • Install the replacement fan, thermistor, and thermostat parts as a matched kit for the refrigerator model.

    • Move the thermistor from the top of the black and copper coils to the flat section of the black evaporator where ice commonly forms.

    • Caution: Avoid moving the cap tube or disturbing the gray mastic tape while repositioning the thermistor.

    • Thread the white thermistor wire back through the small hole and secure it in the gray thermistor holder.

    • Mount the fan by threading the four black pegs into their slots and pulling each peg with needle-nose pliers to fully seat it.

    • Apply the sticky insulation tape to the front of the fan if it is included with the kit.

    • Inspect the drain line hole below the evaporator area for debris and blockages.

    • Note: A damaged plastic drain pan can shed plastic shards into the drain line if ice was chipped out with a putty knife.

    • Remove debris from the drain hole using curved needle-nose pliers if needed.

    • Flush the drain using a bottle of water and a small plastic line to blast out ice and small lodged debris.

    • Enter Diagnostics on the door interface again.

    • Select mode number seven in Diagnostics.

    • Press button number three to switch to the second mode, which forces a basic defrost pattern.

    • Note: This changes the refrigerator from dynamic defrosting to a forced 8-hour defrost mode to clear ice more often.

    • Reinstall the air tower cover, evaporator cover, ice maker, water housing parts, cross piece, drawers, and shelves by reversing the removal steps.

    • Reminder: Reconnect the chef pantry wire harness before securing the cross piece in place.

    • Reminder: Line up the four ice maker clips as you slide the ice maker back into position.

    • Plug the refrigerator in and monitor cooling performance after reassembly.

Conclusão

If the refrigerator compartment still won’t cool after the fan kit replacement, drain clearing, and the basic defrost setting change, recheck the evaporator fan operation in Diagnostics and confirm the wiring connections are fully seated. Water returning to the crisper area often points back to an iced or blocked drain, so verify the drain line is flushing freely. Keeping the condenser coils clean can also improve overall cooling performance.

Ben Schlichter

Membro desde: 21/01/25

6447 Reputação

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