How to Stop Excessive Shaking in a Maytag Top Load Washing Machine

Open the lid, press down on the agitator or wash plate, and watch how the basket reacts.

If the basket bounces around in multiple directions and doesn’t snap back up right away, the suspension rods are worn.

Move the washer to an open area where you can lift the top and tilt the washer safely.

Unplug the washer from the wall outlet.

Use a 1/4 inch driver to remove the three screws on the back of the washer.

Remove the metal plate held by the middle screw, and save the plate and screws for reassembly.

Pull the washer top toward the front, lift it slightly, and push it toward the back to release it.

Pivot the washer top up and back, and rest it against a wall if possible.

Use masking tape to secure the lid to the washer top so the lid can’t fall and slam into the console area.

Locate the four suspension rods, one in each corner of the washer.

Inspect the cup system at each rod, and check for cracks or damage.

Put on rubber gloves to improve grip on the suspension rod.

Reach into the washer chassis, grip a suspension rod, and pull it straight up.

Pull the plastic cup off the rod’s hook while holding the rod up.

Lower the rod slowly and let it drop down to the floor inside the washer cabinet.

Lower the lid, and pivot the washer top back into place if you want it secured while you move the washer.

Tilt the washer backward so you can access the underside safely.

Find the dropped rod in the same corner, and work it down and out through the hole in the molded plastic retention area.

Check the suspension rod assembly and focus on the upper collar area that is meant to dampen vibration.

Confirm the issue is play in the collar system rather than the spring itself being easy to compress.

Choose a thicker safety pin or a straight pin because thin safety pins may be too small to work well.

If you’re using a safety pin, straighten it and remove the latch-housing end so the pin is easier to insert into the collar.

Use a thin flat screwdriver or a putty knife to separate the collar into two pieces.

Work the putty knife around the collar until it pops apart into the top piece and the bottom piece.

Set aside the bottom piece and keep the top collar piece ready for pin insertion.

Aim the pin toward the top of the collar and pull the collar down onto the pin instead of pushing the pin into the collar.

Work the pin down into the plastic collar with the pin pressed against the metal rod as closely as possible.

Push the pin through as far as it will go once you can see it piercing through the collar.

Use needle-nose pliers to turn the pin back against the top of the collar.

Use a putty knife to help bend the pin if it’s too tight to grab near the rod with pliers.

Bend the lower part of the pin down into a U-shape under the collar so it can’t slip off.

Tilt the washer back and insert the rod up through the correct hole under the tub.

Hold the rod in place using the top of the small collar while you tilt the washer back down.

Open the top, pull the rod up into the metal housing, and reinstall the plastic retainer cup onto the rod hook.

Position the rod at about the 3 o’clock or 9 o’clock orientation against the slot where it was inserted.

Repeat the same removal, pin installation, and reinstallation process for the remaining three suspension rods.

Route the back-right rod carefully because the pressure hose and wire bundle can make that corner harder to work in.

Lower the top, remove the masking tape, and reinstall the three rear screws and the metal plate.

Move the washer back into position, plug it in, and place the drain hose back into the standpipe.

Run a spin test and watch for improvement in how quickly the tub levels out and stops banging.