How to Replace the SSD in your Mac mini (2024)

Escrito Por: Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Comentários: 65

How to Replace the SSD in your Mac mini (2024)

Dificuldade

Moderate

Passos

Tempo necessário

30 - 45 minutes

Introdução

Use this guide to replace the SSD, or flash storage module, in your Mac mini (2024).

This guide was written with a base model M4 Mac mini. Although the SSD for the M4 Pro model is longer and in a different position, the disassembly procedure is the same.

While the Mac mini's SSD looks like a normal M.2 SSD, its lacks a storage controller. Apple integrates the storage controllers into the Apple Silicon SoC, which means that normal M.2 SSDs are incompatible.

This guide is purely instructional for how to replace the SSD with another of the same type.

Ferramentas

Passo 1

Fully shut down your Mac mini and unplug all cables from it.
Flip over your Mac mini and place it on a clean, flat surface to avoid scratching the chassis.

Den Mac vorm ausschalten noch vom Account trennen. Sonst kann es zu Schwierigkeiten bei der Neuanmeldung kommen.

MacGyverModeOn -

Passo 2

Using the Jimmy or other metal tools during this step could scratch the aluminum chassis; however, it's the simplest way to perform this step. Follow the alternate instructions to avoid scratching the aluminum.
Insert a Jimmy into the gap between the bottom cover and the chassis.
Pry up the bottom cover to create a gap.
Alternatively, you can insert the point of a spudger into one of the plastic vent holes and pry up to create a gap big enough to insert an opening pick into.
Keep the Jimmy inserted under the bottom cover.

It is much easier to get the plastic "pick" under the cover by inserting it UNDER the metal blade (between the blade and the aluminum case) while the blade is more vertical, then bringing the blade down on top of the pick, forcing the fan cover edge up higher. From that position, the pick can easily be pushed in further under the cover and to one side. In other words, instead of putting the pick in OVER the metal blade as shown, put it UNDER. This also protects the aluminum from damage marks of the blade.

SteveTheMonk -

If you check step 4 for the actual pin locations, they are along two opposite sides, while the other two sides have none. I found it easiest to use the hook tool ("Halberd Spudger") to pull up one of the vent holes along one of those sides to lift up the plastic cover a bit (ended up basically (-shaped), then shove the pick under it. This meant I needed to cross the corners with the pick to complete step 4, but that was doable.

mwl -

Passo 3

Insert an opening pick into the gap created by the Jimmy.
Remove the Jimmy.

Passo 4

Slide the opening pick along the bottom cover until you feel it snag on a pin.
There are four pins total—one at each corner of the bottom cover.
Twist the pick to lift the pin out of its slot.

My pick actually broke on this step. I used a larger flathead screwdriver on top of the metal jimmy tool to get the required leverage...

Elliott Barrere -

Passo 5

Continue sliding and prying with the pick along the perimeter of the bottom cover to release the remaining pins.
Don't insert the pick more than an inch when sliding near the power button, as you risk damaging the cable.
During reassembly, press along the perimeter of the bottom until you hear and feel all four pins click back into place.

"Don't insert the pick more than an inch near the power button" is incorrect wording.

I think you mean "Don't insert the pick less than an inch from the power button".

David -

Hi David!

For that warning, it's about not inserting the pick too deep under the bottom cover that you risk hitting the cable as you work around the perimeter. The wording is confusing though, so I'll change it!

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl -

Passo 6

Don't remove the bottom cover, as it's still connected to the Mac mini with a cable.
Lift the edge of the bottom cover opposite the power button and flip it over to expose the power button cable.

There are three electrical connectors in this disassembly operation. Having experienced the fragility of these connectors on previous macs, I chose to NOT DISCONNECT any of them, and it actually SAVES TIME fiddling with them.

IT IS NOT ESSENTIAL to disconnect ANY of these connectors. And it is safer, particularly if you are not experienced. Just take your time and be gentle moving the cover and fan out of the way and resting to the side to get to the SSD screw. It REALLY IS UNNECESSARY TO DISCONNECT ANY CONNECTORS.

SteveTheMonk -

Passo 7

The power button cable is very fragile! You don't have to disconnect it to access the internals— but it will require you to keep the bottom cover propped up.
To disconnect the cable and remove the bottom cover, follow the next two steps.
If you don't disconnect the cable, prop up the bottom cover to prevent straining the cable and skip the next two steps.
Grip the power button cable close to the head and pull it away from its socket to disconnect it.

It's not necessary to remove the power connector and remove the bottom cover (the next step), just flip it over gently to take out the 3 screws underneath (in Step 9).

James -

Skip this step, really fragile connector

Ravire -

it tore open immediately. DO NOT TRY THIS.

Chad Prestridge - 20/02/25

Nicht notwenig man kann den Bodenteil einfach "überlegen"

Christian Studer -

Change these instructions, I also damaged my connector.
This one is different from other connectors, pull up, not along the length of the cable.

Or even better just move it aside or use the 4 Torx to remove it.

James -

How did you fix the connector afterwards? I‘ve the same problem. I broke the connector…

Christof - 23/03/25

Please change these instructions I just ripped the cable out before reading the comments

Sully -

And one more connector just died!

Johannss -

Sorry, what do you do if the connector pulls apart? Utterly evil design. This step needs a rewrite and a serious warning on it!!!!!

Adam P -

Achtung, den Connector auf keinen Fall lösen. Bei mir ging dieser kaputt - hoffe, ich kann ihn noch reparieren!

Christof - 23/03/25

another wrecked connector come on fix it change this step

Donald Gillis -

Broke mine as well. DON'T DO THIS STEP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

djdubcom -

The 13 comments on this step should've tipped me off, but alas, another one bites the dust. On the bright side, I can see this as a grand opportunity to DIY my own power button and glue it onto a sensible place instead of the underside like a psychopath lol

Davis Diercks -

I didn't see the comments at first... was consternated about the direction "...pull it away from it's connector", which isn't clear. As others have said: don't pull it sideways/along the wire, lift it upward, towards your face. Like a Lego block. I was lucky - I didn't break my connector, but was using a small tool to lightly help pry it up.

JFixIt -

Another broken connector! Really bad instruction.

Jon Hutton -

Hätte ich nur die Kommentare gelesen! One more broken connector...

raimund.kirchschlager -

agreed wot others - please change the instructions here. Safest is to remove the 4 T2 screws and take off the trapezoidal plate with the contact switch, no risk of anything when you do that.

Spencer Greene -

Guys. If you have worked on the last 15 years of mac mini, you may know, that these kind of ports are always to move vertically, to clip them out. (like you use a paperclip below and lift it up, a wire of it) If i read the comments i have the impression, now too much completely unexperienced persons "work" on that devices. This port is not uncommon. you find it on the logicboard of all old macminis too. at least on many. The power-supply port of older MMs are exactly the same. To carefully remove.

Michael Simon -

I also broke my connector. I tried to solder a momentary switch to the existing connector and that did NOT work. The computer would boot, but not go into DFU mode. The computer would turn off after a few seconds after releasing the switch. My switch must have incorrect electrical properties compared to Apple's switch.

I ordered MOLEX 36920-0201, Rectangular Cable Assemblies PicoEZmate 2 Circuit 100MM. I opened another shield on the underside of the inner plate. (Shown in step 9 below.) You can use the provided 3IP Torx bit on these screws. If you remove the button assembly shown in this step like I did. The 3IP bit is too big, but it is small enough to remove the screws.

Like the comments above suggest, you're supposed to pull away from the surface. So to insert you should push the connector into the surface. The cable has two slits where the connectors slide in. Orient the slits down so you press them into the connectors. You don't need a ton of force. This thing is fragile. ;)

Alex - 12/09/25

I had originally planned to leave this alone, propped up, but that ended up awkward in the next steps. So I unscrewed this. Note that these are the only T2 screws for this project. Three of them I could get out with T3, but don't count on it.

mwl - 19/09/25

+1 for another broken connector. PLEASE CHANGE THE INSTRUCTIONS!

Elliott Barrere -

What do we do to repair? Can a new bottom cover be ordered?

pkilli -

Yes. I made the some mistake.

I tried to pull out the connector. BUT IT SHOULD BE PULL UP. so, the connector is damaged.

I went to Apple Service Center and the solution is not to replace the cable but to replace the whole antena board. It will cost me 90 USD. I think Apple is crazy. In order to same manpower of the service center, they give consumer such a solution.

Finally, I ordered a MOLEX78172-0002 with cable, then ask mobile repair guy help me to cut the connector and solder the new cable. The new 7812-0002 cost me 0.2USD with 1 USD freight and I give 3 USD to the guy who help me solder the cable. So, the total cost for reparation is 4USD.

Edmond House -

Passo 8

Remove the bottom cover.

The power button is better to be completely unscrewed then to pull at the connector as it shattered in a 8th of a second.

Chad Prestridge -

Passo 9

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
While the Mac mini uses Torx Plus screws, standard Torx bits work. Make sure to apply constant, downward force to prevent stripping.
Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the eight 3.4 mm‑long screws securing the inner plate.

Passo 10

Insert the point of a spudger into one of the clips' slots on the inner plate.
Pry up the inner plate enough so you can grip the edge along the same side as the headphone jack.

Passo 11

Pull the inner plate away from the chassis to slide it out from under the lip on the heat sink.
During reassembly, slide the inner plate back under the heat sink and press along its edges to secure it in the chassis.

Passo 12

Don't remove the inner plate, as it's still connected to the Mac mini by a cable.
Lift the inner plate and flip it over the edge of the chassis. Let it rest against the chassis.

Passo 13

Remove the four screws securing the fan:
Two 2.4 mm‑long Torx Plus 3IP screws
Two 7.9 mm‑long Torx Plus 5IP screws

Passo 14

Lift the fan out of its recess in the chassis and flip it over to expose its wire and connector.
Let the fan rest on the chassis and heat sink.

Passo 15

Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the fan ZIF connector.

Absolutely not needed, you can just put the fan aside!

James -

It is NOT required to remove the fan

Peter van Heerebeek -

I agree with the other commenters. It's really easy to balance the fan on the edge of the case, out of the way, while swapping the SSD. No need to deal with this step and the next three (!).

mwl -

Passo 16

Use the point of a spudger, or your fingernail, to flip up the locking tab on the fan ZIF connector.

This part is not clear. I suspect I have reined the connection. I pulled on the tab and ruined the connector.

Can this be fixed?

phil -

Passo 17

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to slide the ZIF connector straight out of its socket.

Again I didn't fine this very clear. I suspect I have stuffed it up. What Do I do Wirth a broken connector?

phil -

Passo 18

Remove the fan.

Passo 19

Use a Torx Plus 8IP screwdriver to remove the 4.1 mm‑long screw securing the SSD.

I just purchase a new 1 Mac MINI M4 Is it possible to put the operating system back on via another method?

Michael Kuran -

Passo 20

Insert the point of a spudger into one of the holes along the bottom edge of the SSD.
Use the spudger to pull the SSD away from its socket, alternating sides as necessary, until it's fully disconnected.

Passo 21

Grip the corner of the SSD, tilt it up against the headphone jack, and lift it out of its socket.
During reassembly, insert the SSD at an angle and gently wiggle it into place until it sits flat to the logic board.

I appreciate the guide, it is very thorough and well laid out as one would expect from iFixit. I did notice that it was not necessary to unplug the fan in my case. That jack that is directly behind the SSD is kind of a pain if you do not pull the drive the right way.

Benjamin McGill -

Great. But... where to find compatible SSD?

Aristóteles Benício -

Great, where can you find the correct version of SSD? Thank You!! 😊

Ryan A Franco -

I went with this one, and have had no issues with it. It's still going strong after 7 months, noticeably faster than the original 256GB ssd which I had before.

Klaudia -

Just google e.g. "M4 Mac mini Pro 2TB SSD Replacement Upgrade" and you will find a lot of results. I bought mine from amazon.com but I have read other recommendations also. But prices are going up at the time it seems. Must be very big demand on these SSD upgrades saving a lot of money!

And when I did the upgrade I did not remove a single cable. I just propped up the cover and fan. Don't see why it is necessary to remove any cables.

asle - 12/09/25

Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Mac mini (2024) Answers Community for help.

Autor(a)

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Membro desde: 16/01/22

227430 Reputação

23 comentários

"Apple's unique SSDs aren't sold by Apple and aren't currently available by a third party." is no longer correct. https://expandmacmini.com has tested options to upgrade SSD to 2TB.

Alpha -

Fixed! Thank you!

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl -

Thanks, as always, for such a wonderful job in explanation and photos as to how this disassembly and upgrade of the M4 Mac Mini. I and many others thank you for this work that you do so well. I have just purchased an M4 Mini with only 256 GB internal drive, although, I did opt for an upgrade of the RAM to 32 GB; but, as everyone knows, and extra $500 as a charge from Apple for this much extra RAM makes for quite an expensive addition to the cost. But, now that I have an option to upgrade the internal drive to 2 TB, my Mini will be really powerful, with lots of room to spare!

Bruce -

After the installation, (or prior to?) how does one install the OS? Thank you

Jim Willett -

https://youtu.be/eLtE2kMTVOQ?si=0CmnvQW_...

Chris Johnson -

You need to use the DFU tool to get the system to recognize the new/replaced storage before you can perform an OS install.

dragon788 -

Is it possible to install the OS one the new drive without the need for another Mac mini?
if yes, how can I do this?

DJT -

Hi, I'm looking at tools I need to do this. In the What You Need section, above, it says a Torx Plus 8IP Screwdriver and TR8 Torx security is needed. However, iFixit only has the TR8 Torx Security screwdriver available. I want to know if the TR8 Torx Security screwdriver will remove the single screw holding the SSD in place in the M4 mac mini?

John -

Hello!

Yes, the TR8 Torx security screwdriver will fit the screw holding the SSD! While the screw itself is technically a T8 Torx Plus, a normal screwdriver of the same size will work. Just remember to apply enough downward force to prevent stripping the screw.

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl -

Hi can you tell me what is the right fixit tool kit with all the right bit for this operation. I don’t find any Torx Plus 3ip or 5ip listed in a fixit kit

Daniel Meloche -

The iFixit Minnow or Manta would include the selection of Torx bits required (as mentioned elsewhere, Torx Plus IP are compatible with regular Torx of the same size.

dragon788 -

Two risky steps are not needed:

You don't need to remove the plug from the power button (highly likely you damage it), you can just put the cover aside.

You don't need to remove the sticker and plug from the fan (difficult to put back without damaging), you can just put the fan aside.

James -

Thanks James. Was wondering if those two steps are unnecessary.

Jame Dunkt -

I confirm, I just replaced my 256GB SSD with a 2TB one without removing the power plug nor the fan plug.

eRudy - 27/03/25

Can Ifixit team upgrade the internal SSD of my M4pro? How much will you charge for that?

Attizzoso Dissaldato -

M4 Mini Pro SSD replacements are not yet available. Only M4 Mini SSDs as of now (2 April).

Jame Dunkt -

Thanks for the guide! It was not necessary to remove the fan cable to remove the SSD.

Peter Schneider -

Have you attempted the same operation with the ‘Studio’?

AlaskaJaxx -

Absolut great work. Nice photographed, well described, it was a joy to do the installation... thx a lot.

marcus -

Warning!!! Do not remove the fan cable. I ruined my Mac Mini M4 by removing the fan cable. When I lifted the cable off with a spludger the socket for the cable came off the circuit board. This would be impossible to repair. I'm still using the Mac Mini without an operational fan but I keep a close tab on the CPU and GPU temperatures with a third party app that monitors the temperatures. It's a good thing I don't do any demanding work like editing videos or this computer would be toast.

stulef -

To unplug (remove) the cable from the power button DO NOT pull the cable from near the plug! With a plastic opening pick lever the plug upwards away from the outer cover. I can't believe that iFixit have gotten this wrong. Pulling the cable will damage the plug.

Also as others have pointed out there's no need to unplug anything to only change the SSD.

Eveanessant -

Bonjour, j'ai installé ce SSD de 2To (https://expandmacmini.com/) cette semaine et il est super rapide, au moins 2x plus rapide que le 256 Go d'origine.

Installation nickel comme expliquée sur le site du vendeur. SSD rapide. Bien sauvegarder via Time Machine son Mac. Tout parfait.

Fred

Fred Bob -

After getting the "DFU Error 4042" over and over despite reseating the drive and trying different cables, I noticed that I still got it when I had reinstalled the original SSD that was otherwise working, so I tried using a different computer to run the DFU restore (switched from 2020 M1 MBP to a 2020 M1 MBA) and suddenly it worked smooth as butter! So, with a 4042 error (or the Configurator giving up after several minutes of nothing happening), try a different source computer. I couldn't discern any reason for the MBP to not work while the MBA did.

With all the opening and closing of it, I got my time to swap out the SSD to under 10 minutes!

I agree with all the others that here is no reason to attempt to disconnect any of the cables - just set them carefully so there isn't tension in them.

Also, be sure to start with a decent set of Torx drivers - the "Deep sea" brand kits out there come with a set of torx drivers but the tips are too soft and the T3 tip strips right away.

M S - 04/12/25