Introdução

If your Kenmore washer stops mid-cycle, shows an LE error code, and may make bumping or grinding noises, the washer is detecting a motor lock condition and won’t spin properly. This can be caused by a physical obstruction in the drum, a control board issue that clears with a reset, or a failed rotor position sensor (RPS). This guide shows how to identify affected Kenmore models, reset the washer, check for obstructions, access the motor components, and test the RPS with a multimeter.

    • Open the door and find the model number label.

    • Confirm the model number starts with 796 or 795 to identify it as an LG-made Kenmore washer.

    • Use the LE code as a clue that the washer has a motor lock issue and isn’t able to spin properly.

    • Plan to check for a physical obstruction, perform a reset, and inspect or test the rotor position sensor.

    • Unplug the washer, and let it sit for two to three minutes.

    • Press and hold the power button for five to ten seconds while the washer is unplugged.

    • Plug the washer back in and confirm the LE code is gone.

    • Run the washer to drain the water if there was still water in the drum when the LE code appeared.

    • If the LE code doesn’t return, the reset may have fixed the problem.

    • Spin the drum by hand and listen for abnormal noises.

    • Stop troubleshooting the motor if the drum stops abruptly or makes major noise, because an obstruction may be preventing proper movement.

    • WARNING: The video mentions taking the tub apart for obstructions but doesn’t show how to do it.

    • Unplug the washer again before opening any panels.

    • Move the washer so you can access the rear metal panel.

    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws from the rear panel.

    • Slide the rear panel off to expose the motor area.

    • Use a 17 mm socket wrench to turn the rotor bolt counterclockwise to loosen it.

    • Hold the rotor while turning, because the entire rotor system will try to move with the bolt.

    • Tap the socket wrench with a rubber hammer while holding the rotor in place if the bolt is very hard to break loose.

    • Remove the rotor bolt completely.

    • Pull the rotor straight off the shaft using equal pressure with both hands.

    • Caution: The rotor contains strong magnets and can be difficult to remove.

    • Don’t pull from only one side, because that can damage the magnets.

    • Inspect the rotor hub threads for severe wear.

    • Inspect the rotor magnets for wear, cracks, burns, damage, or obstructions.

    • Replace the rotor if the magnets are damaged, because the magnets aren’t replaceable individually.

    • Use a 10 mm socket wrench to remove the six long stator screws.

    • Hold the stator as you remove the last screw so it doesn’t fall.

    • Support the stator with one hand and disconnect the two wire harnesses attached to it.

    • Use a flat-bladed screwdriver or needle-nose pliers to press the sides of the connector clips if they won’t release.

    • Inspect the stator magnet edges and stator wiring for burn marks or damage.

    • Replace the stator if it shows obvious damage.

    • Inspect the stator wiring harnesses for frayed wires or damaged connector wires inside the harness.

    • Locate the rotor position sensor mounted on the inside of the stator.

    • Use a flat-bladed screwdriver to press in on the sensor’s retaining tab, and remove the sensor from the stator ring.

    • Note: The sensor is retained by a small inside tab and three outside tabs.

    • Set a multimeter to ohms resistance, and use the 20k range if the meter isn’t self-ranging.

    • Identify the five sensor pins numbered one through five.

    • Measure resistance between pin five and pin one, and confirm it reads between 5 and 15k ohms.

    • Measure resistance between pin five and pin two, and confirm it matches the first reading and is between 5 and 15k ohms.

    • Replace the sensor if the readings are wildly out of range or climb toward very high values while holding the leads in place.

    • Note: The video mentions live voltage tests, but doesn’t cover how to do them.

    • Position the new sensor over the three small outer pegs on the stator ring.

    • Snap the sensor onto the three outer pegs and the inner peg until it seats securely.

    • Position the stator on the tub and thread two stator screws in partway to hold it in place.

    • Reconnect the two wire harnesses to the stator.

    • Insert the connectors in the only orientation that fits.

    • Use a 10 mm socket wrench to install the other four stator screws.

    • Fully tighten the first two stator screws.

    • Align the rotor hub threads with the tub shaft and set the rotor onto the stator.

    • Caution: The magnets can pull the rotor hard onto the shaft or push it away while you try to start the bolt.

    • Press the rotor toward the tub as needed so the rotor bolt can thread properly.

    • Apply five or six drops of blue threadlocker to the rotor bolt threads before installing it.

    • Use a 17 mm socket wrench to tighten the rotor bolt.

    • Tap the socket wrench with a hammer a few times to snug the bolt further, similar to how you loosened it.

    • Slide the rear panel into place.

    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the four rear panel screws.

    • Move the washer back into place, plug it in, and make sure the washer hoses are on.

    • Run a test cycle and confirm the washer runs smoothly, completes the cycle, and spins properly without the LE code.

Conclusão

If the LE code returns after the reset, obstruction check, wiring inspection, and RPS testing or replacement, the video doesn’t cover additional control board or live voltage diagnosis steps. Recheck all connectors and mechanical parts you inspected, and consider further diagnosis beyond this procedure.

Ben Schlichter

Membro desde: 21/01/25

6447 Reputação

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