How to Fix the Arctic Wind Washing Machine E3 Error Code

Escrito Por: Ben Schlichter
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How to Fix the Arctic Wind Washing Machine E3 Error Code

Dificuldade

Moderate

Passos

15

Tempo necessário

No estimate

Introdução

An E3 error code on an Arctic Wind washing machine usually means the lid lock system (also called the door lock, lid switch, or lid lock mechanism) isn’t sensing or locking correctly. This guide walks you through simple checks, accessing the lid lock assembly, testing the door lock and magnetic switch, replacing failed parts, and checking the control board wiring if the error persists. These steps also apply to many similar Midea-manufactured washers sold under other brand names with the same lid lock design.

    • Confirm the lid is fully closed and sits flush against the top of the washer.

    • Inspect the lid lock housing area for debris or obstructions that could prevent the lock from cycling.

    • Keep in mind a magnet in the lid triggers the lock system, so a lid that isn’t fully seated can cause an E3 code.

    • Unplug the washing machine from the wall outlet.

    • Shut off the water supply valves.

    • Disconnect the water hoses and the drain hose, and keep them elevated so they don’t spill.

    • Caution: Water can spill when hoses are removed, so keep towels or a shallow pan nearby.

    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws at the rear of the machine, one on the left and one on the right.

    • Position the washer close to a wall so the top can pivot back and rest safely.

    • Apply painter’s tape to the washer lid so it can’t flop backward and hit the wall or the console top.

    • Pull the washer top toward you, then lift it up to let the lid and top pivot up and back.

    • Hold the lid while it pivots so it doesn’t swing backward unexpectedly if tape isn’t holding it.

    • Watch the impact switch at the back left corner, because it can catch while moving the top.

    • Prop the top open with a piece of wood or a metal rod so both hands are free for testing.

    • Locate the switch assembly in the upper right corner under the washer top.

    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the plastic cover over the switches.

    • Lift off the cover to expose the black door lock and the white magnetic switch with the smaller yellow wire.

    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the black door lock in place.

    • Lift the door lock out of its housing.

    • Press the harness clip at the small retainer to free the wire harness from the casing.

    • Use a small Phillips screwdriver or a Phillips bit to remove the small screw securing the white magnetic switch.

    • Pull the magnetic switch out of the housing.

    • Disconnect the magnetic switch from its wire harness.

    • Set a multimeter to continuity mode or ohms resistance mode.

    • Insert the multimeter leads into the magnetic switch harness at any exposed metal contacts.

    • Bring a strong magnet close to the switch and confirm the reading changes from open loop to continuity near 0.0 ohms.

    • Replace the magnetic switch if it won’t trigger with a magnet.

    • Note: The lid contains a magnet near the switch location, so also check that the lid isn’t damaged or blocked from triggering the switch.

    • Confirm the white lock bar moves in and out of the door lock housing without obstruction.

    • Use a multimeter to measure resistance between the blue wire pair, and confirm it reads about 30–60 ohms.

    • Use a multimeter to test the black wire pair, and confirm it reads OL with the bar extended and about 50–80 ohms when the bar is pressed in.

    • Replace the door lock if the black wire pair still reads OL when the bar is pressed in.

    • Note: Both switches are usually inexpensive, so consider replacing both if one failed and you already have access.

    • Position the magnetic switch in its housing and reinstall its small screw.

    • Mount the door lock onto its two locating pegs and reinstall the two Phillips screws.

    • Clip the wire harnesses back into their retainers so the connectors are secured in the housing.

    • Reinstall the plastic cover over the switches and install the three Phillips screws.

    • Lower the washer top carefully and make sure the impact switch at the back left corner doesn’t catch on the tub.

    • Align the top so it sits flush with the sides of the washer, then press it backward to lock it into place.

    • Test the washer with the lid closed to see if the E3 error returns.

    • If the E3 error is gone, reinstall the two rear Phillips screws.

    • Place a replacement magnet near the lid switch area to see if the washer stops showing the E3 error.

    • Replace the washer lid or glue a new magnet to the outside of the lid if an added magnet fixes the error.

    • Unplug the washer again before opening the control board area.

    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove all screws on the back of the washer that secure the rear panel area.

    • Remove the two screws on the left side where the control board is located, then lift the board up and out of its housing.

    • Remove the two or three screws holding the control board cover, then press the cover edges to pop the top off.

    • Locate connectors CN4 and CN12 on the control board, which control the door lock system.

    • Disconnect the CN4 and CN12 wires from the board and test continuity from CN4 pin one to CN12 pin one with the lid open, then closed.

    • Test the second circuit by pressing the black switch in and out and checking if the reading cycles between open loop and continuity near 0.00 ohms.

    • Inspect the wire bundle for frayed or broken wires if the circuit doesn’t change states during testing.

    • Replace the control board if the wiring tests correctly but the E3 error persists.

    • Reinstall the control board cover and its screws, then reinstall the board into its housing and secure it with the left-side screws.

    • Reinstall the back screws you removed to access the control area.

    • Reconnect the drain hose and water hoses, turn on the water supply, and check for leaks.

    • Plug the washer back in and test operation with the lid closed.

Conclusão

If the magnetic switch and door lock test good, and the lid magnet is confirmed to trigger the switch, focus on control board wiring checks at CN4 and CN12 and inspect for damaged harness sections. Use the correct control board part number for the exact model, because it can vary between Arctic Wind washers.

Autor(a)

Ben Schlichter

Membro desde: 21/01/25

6447 Reputação

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