Desconexão da bateria do MacBook Pro 13" com teclas de função do final de 2016

Passo 1

Antes de prosseguir, desconecte o MacBook da tomada e desligue-o. Feche a tela e coloque-a em uma superfície macia, com a parte superior voltada para baixo.
Com uma chave Pentalobe P5, remova os seis parafusos que fixam a estrutura inferior:
Dois parafusos de 6,2 mm
Dois parafusos de 5,3 mm
Dois parafusos de 3,4 mm
Durante o reparo, rastreie cada um dos parafusos e certifique-se de que eles voltam exatamente para o local de onde vieram, para evitar danos ao dispositivo.

Before any repair is carried out that involves removing the bottom case, the machines auto-boot function has be disabled. This can be disabled via the terminal command “sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00” once the repair has been completed the auto-boot function can be re-enabled via the vermin command “sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03”.

Aaron Dalziel - 12/04/18

I recommend that you have an organizer tray for all the small parts, and label it in advance with the numbered “step” associated with each removal of screws and other parts. It really helped me when I needed to put everything back in reverse order, after the new battery is glued in place.

tommy404 - 28/04/21

Finished the repair last week. Some key comments that helped me:

- Step 12, Robert

- Step 13, MikeG1

- Step 13, Rick Jaffe (take a photo when disassembling)

Also added some own comments on Steps 15, 18, 22

Per Haglund -

Passo 2

Aplique uma ventosa de sucção na parte de baixo da estrutura, próximo à área central frontal do MacBook Pro.
Levante a ventosa de sucção para formar um pequeno vão entre a estrutura inferior e o chassi.

To replace the bottom just line it up just like it came from the factory. Make sure it clears the display connectors. And press firmly down until the clips connect to the bottom again.

olivia drinkwine - 23/02/21

Passo 3

Insira a ponta de uma palheta de abertura no espaço entre a estrutura inferior e o chassi.
Passe a palheta de abertura ao redor do canto mais próximo até a metade da lateral da estrutura.
Com isso você libera o primeiro dos clipes ocultos que prendem a estrutura inferior ao chassi. Você deverá sentir e ouvir o clipe se soltar.

Passo 4

Repita a etapa anterior no lado oposto, passando a palheta de abertura por baixo da estrutura inferior e pela lateral para liberar o segundo clipe.

Passo 5

Insira novamente a sua palheta de abertura sob a borda frontal da estrutura inferior, próximo a um dos dois furos mais ao centro.
Gire a pinça com firmeza para liberar o terceiro clipe que prende a estrutura inferior ao chassi.
Repita esse procedimento próximo ao outro dos dois furos centrais, liberando o quarto clipe.

My 3rd and 4th clips released simultaneously with clip 1 and 2.

Therefore I was looking to do something which had already been accomplished.

David Hutzler -

yeah be sure not to bend those clips by the display bottom. You pull towards yourself to get it off

Grant Tyler -

Passo 6

Puxe a estrutura inferior com firmeza em direção à parte frontal do MacBook (afastando-a da área da dobradiça) para separar o último dos clipes que prende a estrutura inferior.
Pode ser útil puxar primeiro um lado e depois o outro.
Pode ser que isso exija muita força.

Difficult to explain clearly, but worked easily for me by gripping the adjacent bottom and top corners then pulling in opposite directions, rather than trying to grip the hinge corner which is too narrow to afford a strong grip.

Andrew Gordon - 20/11/20

This helped me. It needed more force than what I expected. Basically grab the corner with 6.2mm screw with one hand and the cover of that same corner with the other. Then pull the cover and push the laptop. Careful, it pops off with force!

Javier De la Garza -

I initially tried shifting the whole panel off the front after using the separating tool to make some space at the back where the hinges are. I only had luck when I pushed the panel back to it’s normal state and using the separating tool again to open the front, then getting my fingers underneath the slide it off the front was easy. I guess the lesson is to not use the separating tool to “push from the back“.

Josh Brown - 28/04/21

This step really through me through a loop. My last two MBP were a 2011 and 2013 and on those the bottom just lifted off when you removed the screws. The clips and this sliding lock design added in the 2017 model was frustrating the first time. I was following a youtube video first and he did not explain the sliding part at all. I should have come here first, this guide explains it pretty well. The second time I opened my 2017, I kept an “opening pick” between the bottom panel and the body on each side, and used my two smallest screwdrivers as levers in both “front” corner screw holes. Used the same method without the picks to put it back together at the end. Wayyy easier that trying to grip the panel or laptop body. Just make sure the screwdrivers/pins that you’re using as levers are small enough to be loose in the screw holes and have room to move

Jambu Atchison -

I used a pick underneath one of the back corners and nudge it (push down and towards the front - to get it off the hinge). This will make it easier to do the same for the other corner. The lower case will move off the middle plastic L-clips (which you will see after you inspect it.) Cheers! =)

LSD -

I have found that your iFixit blue pry tool is excellent at giving me leverage to slide the bottom case forward to release it from the internal clips.

themacdoctor -

the panel is sharp on the edges, sharp enough for you to cut yourself when pulling on it. i learned the hard way, just make sure your fingers are in a good spot before pulling

Micah P -

This step was the most difficult for me. Nothing worked when trying to slide the cover away from the hinges. I could gain a few mm of separation but I was stuck there. Finally I resorted to brute force and pulled up from the front till the cover snapped open. It's a bit scary but nothing bad happened. In retrospect, perhaps the central clips had not separated, and a strong pull at the center of the case with the suction cup would have been enough to free the cover for sliding.

Andrea Viceré -

Same here, I cut 6 of my finger nails before I eventually figured it out. Just like you, I decided to pull the cover from the bottom a little upper than what I had done before, and then I heard the central clips go and my fingers were free at last.

Daniel Lafargue -

After hearing the right/left clicks as indicated in the guide, I placed the suction cup centrally and pulling up in 1 single decisive move. There was a loud pop, but the bottom came off with no visible sign off damage at any hinge. This move will not work in reverse (when putting the cover back) since you absolutely must slide the cover back at the screen hinge first (if you inspect closely the clipsing mechanism you will understand why). When mounting it back it was a bit tedious to "slide" the cover back in the screen hinges, but aftewards I again vertically i pressed firmly where the clips are (inspect the back cover and you will understand what is the principle and where to press from the outside). This method may seem a bit brutal and I would not recommend it for the faint hearted. The most gentle method seems to do the recommended steps as indicated by the guide (declipsing left, right and middle) and then find a way to pull the cover towards you (do NOT try to lift up the cover upwards !)

Razvan Matei -

Passo 7

Remova a estrutura inferior.

I used the green prying tool in the air gap at the rear to nudge the bottom forward.

That is far easier and more reliable.

David Hutzler -

David. I agree. I've found the blue iFixit prying tool most helpful. I place it with the curve of the tool around the hinge and move the bottom case towards the front to release it from the slide-in clips. I consider myself to have pretty good grip strength but I have had some bottom cases that just wouldn't budge until I used this method. Scott The Mac Doctor 

themacdoctor -

Like Dave and "themacdoctor" said, this job is MUCH easier if you use a spudger or similar tool to gently push the cover away from the air gap, at the rear of the laptop. Once you do this, you've loosened clips that are on the inside of the bottom case. This is much easier than tugging on the case itself.

ECJohansen -

Passo 8

Retire com cuidado o pedaço grande de fita que cobre o conector da bateria, na borda da placa lógica mais próxima da bateria.
Remova a fita.

once the tape's back in place, it doesn't look tightly attached. not sure, did I do something wrong here or it should be so.

Anton Monakhov - 05/08/20

The tape will likely not adhere as well as when it came out of the factory. This isnt an issue! As long as the tape is in place when the lower cover is put back on the device you should be good to go.

Tarun Thiruma - 02/09/20

The underside of the tape is not uniform. Therefore, pay attention to which direction it is placed by looking at the underside when you remove it. Possibly mark one edge so that you can replace in the same direction during reassembly.

Rick Jaffe - 01/01/21

Be very careful to ensure you're pulling the large rectangular patch of tape and NOT the little black tab on the data cable that is below. At first glance they look like they're all one piece. I made this mistake and think that I ruined that cable.

Brendan C -

Mark one of the tape’s edges and, upon removal, stick it down with the same orientation. The first time I was inside the MacBook Pro (to upgrade the SSD) I failed to do this, and spent almost 30 minutes trying to get it back like it had been. Making a photo also helps.

anasazi4st -

In case you have already taken this out and not looked at how it was in: there’s an end with a round nub sticking out and one with two parallel lines. I was able to get it back in with the round nub over the screw (would be the left side of this picture) and the parallel lines straddling the battery board data cable close to where it connects.

caryndi -

Passo 9

Retire com cuidado o pequeno pedaço de fita que cobre o conector do cabo de dados da placa da bateria.
A fita está integrada ao cabo plano e não se desprenderá completamente. Basta removê-la o suficiente para abrir acesso ao conector.

There is no replacement for this cable in the new battery, is this normal?

Marin dcv -

the replacement battery doesn't supply the small cable. It needs only be disconnected fro one end as in the pictures.

robert -

Well the tape may not supposed to be able to separate but with gentle force, my tape just pulled right off leaving the connector still attached.

John M -

Passo 10

Com a ponta pontiaguda de uma espátula, levante a pequena lingueta preta que prende o cabo em seu conector.

If this ribbon comes off on both ends, how do you re-attach

Gord Alder - 11/12/21

The whole thing that the ribbon goes into came off. I tried to glue it back in but not working. Does this mean my MacBook is done?

W B -

Passo 11

Desconecte o cabo de dados da placa da bateria deslizando-o para fora de seu soquete.
Faça um movimento paralelo à placa lógica, na direção do cabo.

the cable connector (where the twizzer tip is) should be cleaned with alcohol or acetone before insertion because the cover (where the tip is holding it back) will have glue deposit smeared on top of the connector circuit traces. Glue will prevent a good connection with the BMS.

tarex7 - 22/03/20

The little tab that you pull back on, at least in my cable, was simple glued onto the rest of the cable. I tried to carefully remove the cable, and the tab came off. I did not have flat tweezers in the ifixit replacement kit and did not want to pinch the cable with sharp instruments. Therefore, be extremely careful when removing the tab as it is difficult to reattach the cable without it.

Rick Jaffe - 01/01/21

Same problem with the tape coming loose and the cable not coming out. Go further back along the cable and pull gently on the cable with your fingers and the connector will come out easily.

Robert - 20/01/21

Putting it back was not easy for me. Lots of patience is needed to slid the connectors in place. They should enter without much effort.

Once secured with the locking tab, it should stay secured even if you try to pull it out with just a bit if force. I'd recommend this check that the connection is secured before moving on.

Andrea Viceré -

Passo 12

Vire o cabo de dados da placa da bateria para trás, tirando-o fora do caminho.
Se estiver substituindo a bateria, talvez seja necessário remover e transferir esse cabo por completo para a nova bateria. Desconecte as duas extremidades e remova o cabo com cuidado. Durante a instalação, tome cuidado para não instalá-lo de cabeça para baixo ou para trás - observe a orientação nas fotos.

The new battery I received did not come with the battery board data cable, so I had to remove the existing one and transfer it. The lock at the smaller end is the same mechanism as the one at the end shown in steps 11 and 12, but smaller (and harder to see. It helps to gently straighten the left end of the cable before trying to insert it in the end of the replacement circuit board.

MikeG1 - 31/08/19

I can corroborate MikeG1’s comment. My battery came without the long data cable as well. I had to remove it from the fried battery. Plastic lock tab mechanism on the ZIF connector is smaller. My inspection microscope helped to transfer the cable to the new battery board. Thanks Mike!

Macrepair SF - 05/04/20

Likewise - the new battery came without a data cable. The cable was successfully removed from the old battery assembly and installed on the new battery, but it was tricky and nerve-racking (the cable is delicate and the connectors are very small) without instruction provided! The instructions should be updated to highlight the missing cable possibility, and provide information/illustration on transferring the cable.

Marc - 18/12/20

In step 13, notice the amount of the data cable that sticks out of the connector. When moving this cable to the new battery, it is difficult to tell how far to push the cable into the connector or when it is fully inserted because the cable is so bendable.

Rick Jaffe - 01/01/21

AMEN!! This was the hardest part of the ENTIRE process! Hard to know when the small end of the cable was “fully” inserted. Cable is SOOOOO delicate!

Kevin McAda - 26/04/21

If your laptop is showing the x where the battery icon is, this cable is at fault. This cable is referred to as the BMU (Battery Management Unit) flex cable. If it’s damaged, replacing it should solve your issue.

Josh M - 26/01/21

my old battery was working but could not hold a charge very long so I replaced the battery and now my mac does not recognize the new battery. Thought it was a bad battery at first but I purchased a new batter and still the same problem, My mac will work off power outlet but does not register it has a battery at all now. I tried putting my old battery back on but i damaged the very small clip when i slid out the flex cable so its gone now. Could this cable be at fault? I don/t know what else it could be, i only messed with the battery.

Leo Ruiz -

I have this same problem! Did you figure out what the issue was? Do I need a new flex cable?

Jessica Mouland -

I am having the same issue as Leo. After install. Is there a way to identify the fault?

Nathan Jelinek -

Although the rest of fixit manual on this is excellent, this step is woefully lacking and the fact that the replace “kit” doesn’t have the Battery Board Data cable included makes the replacement kit significantly lacking (especially compared to other kits and instructions I’ve used before from them)

zandar10 -

Had I realized how difficult it would be to get the small end of the cable re-seated, I would have reattached it before gluing down the new battery. Still trying to get the connector seated. The cable keeps folding, and at some point the internal connectora will break.

jpmichaels -

Passo 13

Com uma chave Torx T5, remova o parafuso pancake (de perfil baixo) de 3,7 mm que prende o conector de alimentação da bateria.

When the battery management “BMS” circuit board is re-installed, loosely install the two 3.7 mm screws, put a spudger on the left side of the BMS board to wedge theBMS board to the right then tighten the two 3.7 mm screws. The reason for doing this is that the two power traces on the board may not make physical contact with the battery connector (connector at where the spudger is on step 15). One clue that you didn’t have physical contact is if you reinstalled everything but there is no power unless the AC supply is plugged in (with battery meter on the top at 0%). This was what happened to me. The reason is that when you bend the battery connector in step 15, it’s no longer in alignment with the traces on the BMS board and hence, you have to shift the BMS board to the right to compensate. Once I did this, voila 64% power.

tarex7 - 22/03/20

Passo 14

Com uma espátula, levante com cuidado o conector de alimentação da bateria, desconectando-a.
Levante o conector a uma altura suficiente para que ele fique separado do soquete. Se ele entrar em contato acidentalmente durante o reparo, o MacBook Pro poderá sofrer danos.

On disassembly note the position of the connector before you lift. It has two gold-plated connections on the underside. On reassembly these need to make contact with the matching battery board connectors. Bending the connector out of the way deformed it a bit, and on reassembly I could see that the connectors didn't align well with the board's connectors. I needed to adjust the battery board position to the left a bit by loosening the 3.1 mm screws in step 23. Possibly this could be the reason why some people report that new battery is not detected.

Per Haglund -

This comment was very useful for me. Indeed it is not very easy to place the new battery precisely since the glue blocks it immediately.

I ended up having the battery slightly misplaced so also the battery board natural position was slightly off.

I adjusted the board as suggested counting on the elasticity of the cables and using spacers to ensure that the board stays aligned while tightening the screws.

In retrospect it might make sense to first connect the board, then peel the plastic cover from the battery so that this alignment issue does not occur. But I'm not totally sure it would be simpler.

Andrea Viceré -

This comment was a life saver, After all that work the computer did not detect the battery but I realized that the connector was not aligned with the battery board. Ifixit please include this tip on the main directions! Thank you to the author of this comment, I was at the end of my patience!!

Carly Jobson -

Desconexão da bateria do MacBook Pro 13" com teclas de função do final de 2016

Introdução

Ferramentas

Passo 1

Passo 2

Passo 3

Passo 4

Passo 5

Passo 6

Passo 7

Passo 8

Passo 9

Passo 10

Passo 11

Passo 12

Passo 13

Passo 14

Autor(a)

Jeff Suovanen

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