Battery Disconnection

Escrito Por: Carsten Frauenheim

Comentários: 15

Dificuldade

Easy

Passos

Tempo necessário

No estimate

Introdução

Prerequisite-only guide! This guide is part of another procedure and is not meant to be used alone.

Use this guide to safely disconnect the battery before beginning repairs on a Late 2020 MacBook Air (M1).

Ferramentas

Passo 1

Before starting this procedure, you should disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide to disable Auto Boot.
If your MacBook is running Big Sur v11.1 or later, disabling Auto Boot may not work. You can proceed normally, but make sure to disconnect the battery as soon as you're inside.
Completely power off and unplug your MacBook before you start. Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.
Use a P5 driver to remove the following screws:
Two 7.9 mm screws
Two 7.3 mm screws
Six 2.6 mm screws
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your MacBook.

ESD safe mat, plugged into ground, with a wrist strap, also grounded, are the best best to protect the logic board.

Robin Ray -

Re-Assembly Tip: Before putting the screws back in, snap the lower case on and test to make sure the MacBook powers up. When I first re-assembled, I became very nervous I did something wrong because it would not power on. It turns out I just needed to plug the laptop into a power source for it to power up (despite having a good charge before disassembly). It was the perfect way to test the new USB-C ports!

Austin -

Big points to this one, especially for mentioning needing to plug the laptop in. The bottom case needs to be screwed in and laptop needs to be plugged in before it will boot.

Bayden Yazalina -

Thanks for posting this! The same thing happened to me (got scared that I broke something or forgot a step), but connected it to USB-C and it started right up.

Matthew Straub -

Wiha 4PL driver for these screws.

Greg Worrel -

Printing out all the images from this Ifixit guide prior to starting and using duct tape help me keep track of screws.

raju midjdeya -

This Guide has a high chance of not working if an aftermarket display is used as MAC serialization was introduced post ~2023. Likely you will need an original MAC screen replacement and to serialize the display for it to work.

Tron Computers -

Just to chime in on how I managed the screw situation (and I am sure someone else has done this - or maybe everyone has). The replacement screen I got came packaged between two sheets of cardboard. I punched holes with a smaller Torx driver than the one used to remove each screw in the cardboard sheet in a 'map' of where they came from...

Two things accomplished:

1) no screws can roll of the table (they are tricky little buggers)

2) you remember which goes where (well actually, this way you don't need to remember... )

I'd upload photo, but can't...

Cheers to a great guide

Eric Van Moll -

Bought the screen replacement assembly on amazon for $165 brand new. Installed and working great.

The Doctor -

Passo 2

Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop off the lower case.
Remove the lower case.
To reinstall the lower case:
Set it in place and press firmly to engage the two hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.

Los tornillos se ruedan fácilmente :(

Mishelle Cerón -

Passo 3

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and unlatch the metal locking arm on the battery connector.
Make sure the metal arm is completely free of the locking tab before lifting the battery connector. The metal locking arm should easily unlatch.
Lift straight up on the metal locking arm to pull the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.
During reassembly, press the battery connector straight down into its socket, making sure it sits flush within the socket.
If necessary, push the rear, wire side of the connector into place first, then rock the front of the connector into place.

Reassembly: I had difficulty going straight down. The connector has some angled edges that made it difficult. Instead, I slotted the wire side in first, then rocked it forward towards the hinge into position.

Sean K -

If having difficulty in flipping the bar up, place the machine vertical and not that there is a small “locking nib” that the bar has to clear. You may have to give the bar honest persuasion to clear the nib.

Harry Dulcamara -

The bar can lock backwards making it very hard to even see let alone move. Great care is needed to shift it. I had to use two thumbnails, one on each side, then once flipped forward it takes more push than I expected to clip it in place. Ensure the plug is fully seated first !

Simon Anthony -

As others commented, it can be hard to click the battery connector back into place. First make sure the bar is not underneath the connector. Then, turning the computer so the connector pins are facing you (LCD hinge end closer to you) can also make it easier to position the connector on top and then click it into place.

madmaxmedia -

Some replacement batteries have a retainer bar that differs from OEM batteries. I had to swap the retainer bar to properly secure it under the "locking nib" to ensure it didn't release on its own (before it could freely swing).

Anthony Collier -